DIR Return Create A Forum - Home
---------------------------------------------------------
UK Flashaholics
HTML https://ukflashaholics.createaforum.com
---------------------------------------------------------
*****************************************************
DIR Return to: Flashlight Reviews
*****************************************************
#Post#: 1847--------------------------------------------------
Solarstorm SP03 3*XM-L2 U2 1C (4*18650)
By: JohnnyMac Date: July 29, 2013, 2:29 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
[html]<p class="auto-style2"><strong>SOLARSTORM SP03 3*XM-L2 U2
1C (4*18650)</strong></p><p>Flashlight provided for review by <a
href="
HTML http://www.solarstorm.hk/">
Solarstorm.hk</a><br> *As in
all of my reviews, clicking on an image will open the full-res
version in a new window/tab</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2831/9295615069_2412bfd912_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2831/9295615069_a45f9d489a_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>This is the latest performance
flashlight from Solarstorm and it's parent company, Black
Shadow. This exact light is also sold and marketed as the
Fandyfire SP03 and the two are exactly identical except for side
logos. Both versions are available at Fasttech. The <a
href="
HTML http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10005040/1395400-solarstorm-sp03-3cree-xm-l2-u2-4-mode-3020-lumen-w-2020"><br
/>Solarstorm SP03 is $77.54</a> and the <a
href="
HTML http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10004486/1409107-fandyfire-sp03-3cree-xm-l2-u2-4-mode-2000-lumen-co-2020"><br
/>Fandyfire SP03 is $79.16</a> plus another 5% off by using the
"BLF" code.</p><p><strong>PROS</strong></p><ul><li>Great output
with excellent throw and tight hotspot.</li><li>Above average
machining and finish. Clean, square, fully anodized
threads.</li><li>Large aluminum reflector. Well
polished.</li><li>Fantastic switch feel.</li><li>Lighted switch
with low battery indicator.</li><li>Lubricated
threads.</li><li>Excellent heat sinking and mass!</li><li>Rock
solid tail standing without
handle.</li></ul><p><strong>CONS</strong></p><ul><li>Not IPX-8
as claimed. While splash & rain proof, it is not waterproof to
2m. It leaked at the lens gasket at less 1.5 foot
depth.</li><li>End of the handle is longer than the flashlight.
This causes wobbly tail standing</li><li>The "removable" handle
is red Loctite to survive a nuclear blast.</li><li>PWM in Low &
Medium modes but fairly fast. Not likely to be an issue unless
you are extremely sensitive to it.</li><li>Driver is glued in
with a clear epoxy and not removable without
destroying.</li><li>Without the handle it may be a bit fat for
smaller hands.</li></ul><p><strong>Manufacturer Specs:<br>
</strong>Dimensions: 85mm (HD) × 155mm (L) × 114mm (TD) <br>
Weight: 635g (Without Battery) <br> LED: CREE XM-3 × L2 U2 LED
<br> Battery: 4/18650 Battery <br> Circuit: Digital CC Circuit
<br> Mode: High-Mid- low, Hidden Strobe <br> Dimming: Electronic
Side button Switch <br> Lumens:
3020lums-1630lums-360lums-2930lums <br> Runtime:
1h35min-2h44min-6h10min-1h55min <br> Material: Aluminum Alloy
<br> Lens: Impact-resistant Optical Lens <br> Reflector: Smooth
Reflector Metal <br> Waterproof: IPX-8, Unable to Support Dive
Use. <br> Head & Tail: Aluminum Alloy bezel Ring, tail standing
tail cap <br> Mark: LED and mode are optional on your
preference.</p><p><strong>Various Physical Measurements:<br>
</strong>Bezel diameter: 85mm<br> Lens diameter: 79.2mm<br>
Lens thickness: 2.84mm<br> Overall reflector diameter:
77mm<br> Individual reflector diameter: 37.18mm<br> Inside head
diameter: 80mm<br> Driver PCB diameter:
48mm</p><p><strong>PERFORMANCE</strong></p><p style="margin-top:
0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-right: 10px; line-height:
20px;">Panasonics fully charged and loaded. OTF lumens as
measured in my IS:(after 30 seconds):</p><p class="auto-style6"
style="margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-right:
10px; line-height: 20px;"><strong>High - 2193</strong><br>
Medium - 1161<br> Low - 290</p><p class="auto-style3"
style="margin-top: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-right:
10px; line-height: 20px;">Lux @ 3m = 8330<br> <span
class="auto-style4">Converted to 1m =
<strong>74,969</strong><br> Throw distance = <strong>547.61
meters</strong> </span></p><p style="margin-top: 0.5em;
margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-right: 10px; line-height:
20px;">For comparison using the exact batteries all taken within
15 minutes of the SP03:</p><p class="auto-style5">Genuine SRK -
2150 OTF <br> Terminator U2 - 2800 OTF<br> Terminator T6 - 2611
OTF </p><p>Throw on this light is really impressive for a budget
light. To put it all into perspective, Thrunite rates the XM-L
version of the TN31 (a dedicated thrower) at 75kcd of throw and
the SP03 matches it. I recorded lux @ 3m and converted it back
to 74,969cd @1m. Not too shabby for a light about $100 less
than the TN31. The chart below shows the output of the SP03
compared to many popular triples and throwers.</p><p><img
src="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3772/9369122053_49ab3f8261.jpg"></p><p>This<br
/>next chart compares the price of the SP03 to the same
lights.</p><p><img
src="
HTML http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5447/9369122049_bdc9b4af6e.jpg"></p><p>One<br
/>sweet thing Excel can do is allow you to chart out performance
per dollar ratio. The SP03 clearly gives the best performance
per dollar. Better than popular multi-LED lights like the BST,
both Fenix, the Thrunites, the DRY, and even the budget Output
king, the SRK. The Nitecore lights are the worse.</p><p><img
src="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3721/9369121931_36bed240ce.jpg"></p><p>Flood<br
/>is fair with a smooth, even spill with a bright, focused
hotspot. There is PWM in Low and Medium modes but it's actually
pretty fast and while noticeable if you are looking for it, it's
WAY better than most budget lights and really not that bad.
Below are some beam shots I took in broad daylight while
enjoying some downtime after taking the photos for this review.
Taking them in broad daylight really shows just how bright this
light is. As soon as I can find a good location to take some
long distance beam shots I will update the review with them.
</p><p> <a
href="
HTML http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2857/9298349462_9454485d9e_o.jpg"><img<br
/>src="
HTML http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2857/9298349462_707bbcf849_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p> <a
href="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3823/9295567811_c2b80e2be0_o.jpg"><img<br
/>src="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3823/9295567811_4fd7018682_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p> <a
href="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3745/9298346634_ac18b7d285_o.jpg"><img<br
/>src="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3745/9298346634_448342f3c0_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p> <a
href="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7382/9295570537_897b1be1ea_o.jpg"><img<br
/>src="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7382/9295570537_60b50dfc2a_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p><strong>CONSTRUCTION and
DETAILS</strong></p><p>The SP03 arrived from Solarstorm in a
sturdy corrugated box with a simple but nice label.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3696/9298402050_79fa628253_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3696/9298402050_de0c1d4363_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style2"></a></p><p>Inside the box is the light
packed in closed cell foam. Included with the light is a
zip-locked bag with a nice lanyard, a spare O-ring, and a manual
written in Chinese.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5480/9298400734_88cb1bac10_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5480/9298400734_f252e9fbd7_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>The SP03 is securely held durin
g
shipping.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5480/9298400734_88cb1bac10_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7365/9298399152_617ff25201_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>Here are the contents out of th
e
box. This is a fine looking light!</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5543/9298397848_febdf4fbb6_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5543/9298397848_63816e8156_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>The instructions might be great
if you can read Chinese but even if you can't you can still
pickup the basic gist of things like battery orientation, power
lockout, and what button to press to make something
happen.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7315/9295616701_7c336d6810_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7315/9295616701_1798c15de1_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>The reflector in the SP03 is
pretty spectacular. My example was free of dust and nicely
polished. The emitters are perfectly centered.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3716/9295612449_f1e1b2b3f2_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3716/9295612449_7e8c2e4fd4_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>Cree XM-L2 emitters are deep
inside 37mm individual reflectors.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7401/9295598765_b416c18226_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7401/9295598765_f679711a11_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>The lightly crenelated aluminum
bezel surrounds the head but doesn't add a whole lot of
protection. It would have been nicer if the bezel was made from
stainless steel. If the light is dropped the bezel won't do
much to protect the head from impact damage. As it is though,
it threads smoothly and allows access to the lens and reflector.
If anything, it is decently machined.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2875/9295600081_16a9e209f6_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2875/9295600081_4790783d44_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3770/9371881950_a1e7bef5c5_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3770/9371881950_a8c4d9c431_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>While Solarstorm doesn't claim
anything about the lens other than optical grade glass, at
times, when the light is on, I almost swear I see a faint purple
tint on the inside of the glass. I know it's not the emitters
because the spill is free of any purple or green tin</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3834/9369102781_0988fd64c9_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3834/9369102781_b77e6ac11b_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>The lens is reasonably
thick.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7358/9369100573_9c7d58a758_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7358/9369100573_1f856b64e6_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p> </p><p>The power switch is one
of the nicest in the business. It is the same as used in the
Black Shadow Terminator and is stiff while providing excellent
feel for the electronic switch behind it. The switch cover is
translucent and under it are two LEDs, one green and one red.
The green LED under the switch tells you when the light is in
standby/on. If the battery level is low the light red LED will
be lit to indicate time to swap or recharge the cells.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7294/9295604955_31071dd317_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7294/9295604955_a9d871ae1a_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>All machining is very nice.
Edges are clean and defined but not sharp, the anodizing is
consistent in color and thickness, and all logos and laser
etching are bright, crisp and well applied.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2849/9298382554_9faefd879b_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2849/9298382554_a553f994a3_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>Lots and lots of mass in the he
ad
combined with lots of fins provide the SP03 with great thermal
handling. The light gets warm but never gets too hot.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7300/9298384056_2b120bd7c5_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7300/9298384056_10516fc9ed_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>Here you can see the switch lit
in standby mode. Yes, only half the switch is lit. No, the
entire switch will not be lit evenly. Yes, this is how it is
supposed to be. The red LED is on the other half of the
switch.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5341/9295601299_fb7b06fc28_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5341/9295601299_0213e0045a_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>The SP03 tail stands well enoug
h.
It could stand exceptionally if the handle wasn't about 3mm
longer than the rear of the light. More on that a little
further down.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3812/9295594723_6bfee39ab2_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3812/9295594723_d5df545c7c_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>Two stainless steel bolts attac
h
the handle to the body. When I asked the folks at Solarstorm
why the handle wasn't made just 3mm shorter to allow for solid
tail standing, the reply I got was that the handle itself was an
afterthought by one of the engineers and that if I didn't care
for it I could simply remove it.</p><p>Two problems with this.
First, it tells me that while it was an afterthought, there
wasn't a whole lot of thought put into it. Doesn't take a
genius to attach the handle of the prototypes the first time and
realize that the handle sticks out past the base of the light.
Wouldn't have taken much to either measure it properly before
the first mockup or to change the specs before approving the
specs for production. Second, simply removing the handle? Not
so much. Those stainless bolts are slathered in red Loctite and
nearly impossible to remove I sheared the head off of one of
the heads, stripped the hex socket in the other and had to break
out the rotary tool and cutting wheel. More on that later as
well.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7378/9298376170_43c732d3e0_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7378/9298376170_a6277a3338_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>The tail is broad, lightly
crenelated, and makes for a solid, stable tail stand.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3824/9295597213_ea2db4fd72_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3824/9295597213_012ea57c22_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>Very little cell rattle in the
battery compartment/body. Both protected and unprotected cells
fit but button top cells are required.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3829/9295592425_dcbfa3b18d_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3829/9295592425_bde0afe169_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>The contact ring on the driver
PCB is your standard, budget plating. It would have been great
if it had the thick brass contact ring that is on the
Terminator. If you use laptop recovery cells you had better
make sure the anode surface is smooth and well polished
otherwise you will create wear on the anode contact ring of the
driver. The threads were well greased with silicon
grease.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7386/9295588613_364a3f695e_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7386/9295588613_05ecc9e21b_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>The 48mm driver. Anodized
threads on the body and head provide lockout for the power.
This is good for preventing accidental activation and for
eliminating parasitic drain when the light is not in use. My
main gripe with the driver is that the manufacturer used a clear
epoxy to secure the driver board in place in the head. No way
to remove it without completely destroying it. If TexasPyro's
new SRK driver can be made to fit I will tear out the old
driver. If not I will just leave it as is since it still has
great output and throw. It's just a shame because it could
easily handle so much more output to the LED's. Too much
unfulfilled potential. :(</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2878/9295589693_900df1a122_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2878/9295589693_c9aefdb30f_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>Perfectly square, anodized
threads and a thick O-ring provide smooth threading and a tight
seal on the battery compartment.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5444/9295584693_992ef46ca3_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5444/9295584693_b91bc6a823_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>Slots for the 4 cells are nicel
y
cut into the body. Gold colored springs provide contact with
the cathode end of the cells. They are neither too thin or
super thick and look adequate for the amperage required by the
driver. The exposed surface at the end of the body tube
transfers ground current to the outer contact ring of the driver
PCB.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2852/9298366180_7f1648b8a3_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2852/9298366180_c631c454e2_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>The end cap was, surprisingly,
not soaked in Loctite and was tight but easily removed to get to
the tail spring PCB. The O-ring on mine looks like it was
pinched during initial assembly but it remained watertight in my
submersion testing.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5474/9298363698_4d2c938098_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5474/9298363698_3bd514b081_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>Here you can see cathode contac
t
board. The traces are thick and wide and all soldering joints
for the springs are really well done. The only resistance in
this design, if any, would lie only in the springs
themselves.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7391/9295582183_fa2d9397be_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7391/9295582183_a94768a47a_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>With the spring contact board
removed you can see that the springs are really pretty nice.
None of the screw holes were stripped and everything is solid
and well put together.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7313/9295581125_57833b35c8_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7313/9295581125_454c245770_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>The ergonomics on the SP03 are
really pretty nice. I have fairly large hands and had no
problem with either the handle length of switch
placement.</p><p><img
src="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7322/9295578535_9b7650d903_z.jpg"></p><p>My<br
/>thumb falls squarely over the switch button without stretching
or looking. The crisp action of the switch is easy to work
while held by the handle.</p><p> <img
src="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3809/9298360178_f41b3c79f0_z.jpg"></p><p>Here<br
/>you can get an idea of what I meant by the handle being longer
than the light itself. If you leave the handle sit outside the
surface you tail stand the light on the SP03 sits super stable
and solidly. If the handle is on the surface it lifts the one
end of the base of the light and makes it stand wobbly.</p><p>
<a
href="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3727/9295575771_93ce62bdc2_o.jpg"><img<br
/>src="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3727/9295575771_bf31463845_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>This shot will show you just ho
w
little needed to be removed from the end of the handle to allow
the handle to stay on the light and not interfere with proper
tail standing. It may not bother some people but I can be a bit
nit-picky, especially when it wouldn't have cost any extra time
or money to have made it the correct length in the first place.
You could always grind it down but then you'd have a handle
without any anodizing on the end that would look like you hacked
it or was unfinished.</p><p> <a
href="
HTML http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5480/9298357404_5db0809a80_o.jpg"><img<br
/>src="
HTML http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5480/9298357404_cd39cefa4d_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>It's a fat light but still has
great feel and heft in the hand.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7307/9298354546_903acb999d_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7307/9298354546_d73255a2f3_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a> </p><p><strong>WATERPROOFING
ISSUES:</strong></p><p>Large bin filled with water...check.
Turn on the SP03 and drop it into the bucket of
water...check.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3708/9371900162_27a33e112a_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3708/9371900162_d9097b3135_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>30 minutes later I came back to
check on it and what do my eyes perceive? I do believe there is
some water pooling in the reflector behind the lens.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5483/9369117255_9be4784279_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5483/9369117255_e1144eb863_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>Son of a gun, I was right. Wel
l,
I'll just have to dry off the outside of the light and open her
up inside to see where the water came in from and what specific
areas were effected.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3749/9371893420_75696478af_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3749/9371893420_905f291741_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>Well, all the water you see on
the table was inside the reflector housing. Looks like the
O-ring was pressed into the thin gap between the reflector and
the head leaving the seal between the lens and the O-ring less
tight than it should have been. This is correctable by filling
in the gap between the outside of the reflector and the head but
you really shouldn't be forced to do that on a light rated to 2m
submersion. At least I would feel perfectly safe with the SP03
in the rain or with a real quick in-and-out dunk. The remainder
of the light was dry as dust inside. All the other seals,
including the switch button, did their job just fine.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7382/9371887960_0b38052f49_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7382/9371887960_08cf9d7cff_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p><strong>SIZE
COMPARISONS:</strong></p><p>Below are a couple pics comparing
the size of the SP03. I chose the following mainly because they
are the only ones I have right now that have the same basic
format, but also because they are well known lights and made by
the same mother company. From left to right we have the
Solarstorm SP03, the Black Shadow Terminator, the Original
Skyray King, and the new Fandyfire/Solarstorm
Warrior.</p><p>Note that the SP03 is not a heck of a lot taller
than the other 3 lights but the head sure is wider. This is an
extremely compact triple LED thrower! I wish I owned a BTU
Shocker and a Fenix TK75 to do a size comparison with. I know
the SP03 is almost tiny compared to the massive Shocker and I
believe it is even more compact than a TK75. If anything they
should be about the same size.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7306/9301882943_44ab46e0e3_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7306/9301882943_77f0fea6b2_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>Here is a front view of the
reflectors. It's pretty easy to see why the SP03's throw
distance is so much greater than the others. Even the BST,
which is no slouch as a thrower, looks inadequate next to the
SP03.</p><p> <a
href="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7438/9304660768_37db4c78dc_o.jpg"><img<br
/>src="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7438/9304660768_ebeec8925c_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>And a parting shot of the SP03
before I attempted to remove the handle for this review...
</p><p> <a
href="
HTML http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5545/9295573067_47037b15c2_o.jpg"><img<br
/>src="
HTML http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5545/9295573067_8a756b1b1a_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p> </p><p><strong>HANDLE REMOVAL
aka @#$% it!!!</strong></p><p>3mm Allen head wrench - check.
<br> Insert into hex socket bolt - check.<br> Commence
counter-clockwise turning - DOH!!!</p><p>That's right, a real
nightmare kicked in when I tried to remove the allen bolts
attaching the handle to the body. The first bolt's hex socket
stripped on my while attempting to unscrew it. The second
bolt...damn! The socket shape held but when I started to crank
on the allen wrench I thought I had some movement. Nope, it was
just the head of the bolt shearing off just below the surface of
the handle.</p><p>In order remove the bolt with the stripped
head, I had to break out the rotary tool and cutting disk.
After cutting a slot in the head I managed to insert a
flat-bladed screwdriver and, with steady application of gobs of
torque, I managed to slowly extract the bolt in one piece. I
also managed to booger up the handle where the rotary tool's
base made contact as well as put a few scrapes and gouges in the
surrounding area of the head with the cutting disk making
contact in the tight confines.</p><p>Look at all the GD red
Loctite on that bolt! What the hell were they
thinking???</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7444/9360408702_aefb6ef534_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7444/9360408702_2bef141873_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>This is what I was left with
after removing the one bolt. The handle was still securely
fastened to the head from all the red Loctite slathered onto the
bolt with the sheared head. </p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7420/9360406960_14d109626e_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7420/9360406960_9952ef9d1f_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>After a lot of wriggling and
banging on the handle I managed to free it from the Loctite
bonds. That left me with what you see below. One empty hole
lined with red Loctite and one broken stud coated with Loctite
sticking out. No problem...I'll just crank down on what I can
grab with a pair of vise-grip pliers and twist it out.
HAH!</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5447/9360405932_dcd749fdff_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5447/9360405932_fd4ca3f4f8_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>After the vise grips managed to
crank down on my finger while they were cranking onto the broken
stud, I had to calmly attempt to free up the pliers to free my
finger resulting in a torn chunk of finger meat and some slow
but steady bleeding. After repeated attempts with the vise
grips (made slippery each attempt by my blood all over the
handles) I decided to torch the stud to heat the Loctite. No
freaking good there either. The head sucked all the heat out of
the stud before I was able to twist out the stud.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7415/9357626653_dd086901ae_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7415/9357626653_7bab3f9b47_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>No problem though, the head is
so
f'd up now from the cutting disk and vise grips that I won't be
reusing the handle anyway. Might as well fire up the rotary
tool and cut the stud off as low as I could. Looks like it's
time for some trusty JB Weld stick putty.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5509/9360402498_baeb0acf94_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5509/9360402498_67471f04cb_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>An initial application of JB We
ld
putty then some trimming with a razor knife before fully set
allowed me to fill in the giant notch in the head as well as
cover up the broken stud and fill in the empty stud
hole.</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3745/9360401472_82497ff070_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3745/9360401472_5360f78761_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>Once set, a little more careful
trimming and fine file work, some liberal application of black
Sharpie and voila! It's far from perfect but it's a damned site
better than it was. I had planned on a second thin application
and some careful blending and shaping to get it perfect but I
was so frustrated with the whole experience I quickly settled
for what you see below. Word of advice...If you do attempt to
remove the "easily removable" handle, don't! At the very least,
use your 3mm allen wrench and if you have to apply anything more
than unreasonable force to remove the bolts just stop there and
learn to love the handle. Perhaps not all examples are not
slathered in red Loctite like mine was. Solarstorm, if you are
reading this, stop all use of Red Loctite immediately for future
production!!</p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7460/9369123181_536254494a_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7460/9369123181_db720fa959_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p><a
href="
HTML http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2807/9371872540_4439b63897_o.jpg"><br
/><img
src="
HTML http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2807/9371872540_ecbd973606_z.jpg"<br
/>class="auto-style1"></a></p><p>The light is a handful but is
easily managed without the handle. The side switch makes it
immensely usable and easy to
operate.</p><p><strong>CONCLUSION</strong>:</p><p>In spite of
the lens O-ring leak, epoxied driver, and the Loctite slathered
handle, I still give this light a strong recommendation. I have
spoken with other Lumaholics who own the TK75 and/or BTU Shocker
as well as the SP03 and they all say that the SP03 is about the
best bang for your buck going. Sure the others will out throw
it but for two or three times the investment they are just not
2-3 times better lights. If you really can't justify spending
$150 or more on one of the major triples then the SP03 is a more
wallet friendly triple thrower that is sure to satisfy. To put
things into perspective, a good buddy of mine (most of you know
who I'm talking about) with a <strong>massive</strong>
collection of top end (as well as budget) lights decided to part
ways with his collection with the exception of a few select
lights he just didn't want to part with. He sold his BTU
Shocker, his TK75, and his TK70. What big triple did he keep
for himself? You guessed it, the SP03. If you are a fan of the
SRK and multi-emitter lights in general then do yourself a favor
and, instead of buying one or two more SRK, get yourself an
SP03. I'm confident you will find it a worthy addition to your
light collection. ;)</p><p>Johnny</p>[/html]
#Post#: 1848--------------------------------------------------
Re: Solarstorm SP03 3*XM-L2 U2 1C (4*18650)
By: MRsDNF Date: July 29, 2013, 5:10 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
Fantastic review JM. This looks like an orsm light. I assume as
the driver was glued in that you could not remove the reflector.
It seems like some of these budget lights are so close but miss
by that much. Maybe you should have a job as a consultor to
these manufacturers?
#Post#: 1849--------------------------------------------------
Re: Solarstorm SP03 3*XM-L2 U2 1C (4*18650)
By: JohnnyMac Date: July 29, 2013, 5:16 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
You are correct, my friend. I think the reflector is bolted in
from behind like the SRK. I was hoping to at least do a resistor
mod to it along with dedoming the emitters but it's not looking
like I will be able to.
#Post#: 1851--------------------------------------------------
Re: Solarstorm SP03 3*XM-L2 U2 1C (4*18650)
By: jacktheclipper Date: July 29, 2013, 6:46 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for the exhaustive review JohnnyMac .
Looks like a fine light if you like it just as it is , looks
like modding it might be difficult .
#Post#: 1859--------------------------------------------------
Re: Solarstorm SP03 3*XM-L2 U2 1C (4*18650)
By: gords1001 Date: July 30, 2013, 4:08 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
I see me ordering one of these once August is out of the way, my
bank is being pillaged to the tune of 16 to 17 grand once I'm
done and most of it is not my money to start with. was hoping to
slip a light into the outgoings but there's just no way its
happening.
Thanks for the review johnny, its the first tripple to really
make me sit up and take notice.
#Post#: 1863--------------------------------------------------
Re: Solarstorm SP03 3*XM-L2 U2 1C (4*18650)
By: MRsDNF Date: July 30, 2013, 8:30 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
Is not this one that we will all want though?
Trustfire TR-S700
Cant wait for the review not that I can afford it.
#Post#: 1865--------------------------------------------------
Re: Solarstorm SP03 3*XM-L2 U2 1C (4*18650)
By: JohnnyMac Date: July 30, 2013, 8:45 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
[quote author=MRsDNF link=topic=409.msg1863#msg1863
date=1375234220]
Is not this one that we will all want though?
Trustfire TR-S700
Cant wait for the review not that I can afford it.
[/quote]Steve, the TR-S700 is a heck of a light so far. I
haven't opened it up yet but the driver is held in with screws
so it should be easy to upgrade and at least get into. I did
check PWM with it and at the lower modes there is zero PWM. In
the higher modes PWM is very fast (at least 4-5 times faster
than the SRK. I'm going to guess it's in the 400-500 range at
least. The highest output has none of course. I can't recall
if I posted it here (I think I did) but output stock is 3250
after 30 seconds on high. ;D
#Post#: 1869--------------------------------------------------
Re: Solarstorm SP03 3*XM-L2 U2 1C (4*18650)
By: MRsDNF Date: July 30, 2013, 11:13 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
I'm excited. :D
#Post#: 1878--------------------------------------------------
Re: Solarstorm SP03 3*XM-L2 U2 1C (4*18650)
By: MRsDNF Date: July 31, 2013, 6:01 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
I should off thought of this before but in my hazy mind it has
only just come to the surface. When faced with cap screws or any
type of screw or bolt that will not unscrew, a couple of really
hard whacks on a punch with a hammer on the head of the
offending item can help loosen it whether it is loctite, rust or
something else stopping it from coming undone. If the heads of
the capscrew have been damaged this is also a way to get an
Allen key to fit a damaged hex, the hexes may peen in allowing
an Allen key to be hit into the damaged head and sometimes
unscrewed.
*****************************************************