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#Post#: 13148--------------------------------------------------
Re: Dress decolonization
DIR By: rp
Date: April 29, 2022, 7:19 am
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I agree. For reference, this is the actual Zhongshan tunic:
HTML https://www.dragonsports.eu/117761-verylarge_default/zhong-shan-uniform.jpg
Note the lack of buttons/folded collars.
#Post#: 13158--------------------------------------------------
Re: Dress decolonization
DIR By: 90sRetroFan
Date: April 29, 2022, 10:19 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
This same principle of not adding foreign objects to
construction is also seen in:
HTML https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dougong
--- Quote ---
> The use of dougong first appeared in buildings of the late
centuries BC and evolved into a structural network that joined
pillars and columns to the frame of the roof. Dougong was widely
used by the ancient Chinese during the Spring and Autumn period
(770–476 BC) and developed into a complex set of interlocking
parts by its peak in the Tang and Song periods. The pieces are
fitted together by joinery alone without glue or fasteners,
requiring precise carpentry.
--- End Quote ---
HTML https://cutthewood.com/featured/ancient-chinese-woodworking-without-nails/
--- Quote ---
> Chinese architects and Chinese woodworkers have used
mortise-and-tenon joints so pieces of wood are joined together.
A rectangle-to-rectangle tenon, square-to-square or “peg”
fitted into a “hole” or mortise, or “hole” were some of the
techniques used. It is crucial to carve the dimensions of the
tenon precisely yo mirror the mortise so the two will
successfully fit together.
>
> As an ultimate rule, screws, and nails have never been used in
any stage of the process. Indeed, history has proven that the
creation of furniture pieces with nails and screws tend to
wobble, unlike furniture pieces that were precisely joined using
mortise and tenon, wherein individually carved pieces fit
quickly into one another.
> ...
> Not to mention, the joining of the wood in this way creates a
corresponding tension in the beam and does not create possible
flaws in the cutting planes that may be present with other glue
joining techniques.
> ...
> The nails and screws hold the wood quickly, allowing a small
movement that eventually breaks the wood around the metal
fastener. The movement of the wood, the humidity and the
deterioration of the glue eventually loosen any glued wooden
board.
>
> When done correctly, projects made entirely of wood can last
as long as wood, which can be more than a thousand years.
>
--- End Quote ---
When you hammer a nail or screw a screw into a piece of wood,
you are adulterating the wood. Anyone who is willing to
adulterate the very material they are trying to build with
should not be allowed to build anything.
HTML https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nail_(fastener)#History
--- Quote ---
> The Bible provides a number of references to nails, including
the story in Judges of Jael the wife of Heber, who drives a nail
(or tent-peg) into the temple of a sleeping Canaanite
commander;[3] the provision of iron for nails by King David for
what would become Solomon's Temple;[4] and in connection with
the crucifixion of Christ.
--- End Quote ---
HTML https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw#History
--- Quote ---
> The metal screw did not become a common fastener until machine
tools for their mass production were developed toward the end of
the 18th century. This development blossomed in the 1760s and
1770s[54] along two separate paths that soon converged:[55] the
mass production of wood screws (meaning screws made of metal to
be used in wood) in a specialized, single-purpose,
high-volume-production machine tool; and the low-count,
toolroom-style production of machine screws (V-thread) with easy
selection among various pitches (whatever the machinist happened
to need on any given day).
>
> The first path was pioneered by brothers Job and William Wyatt
of Staffordshire, UK,[56] who patented in 1760 a machine that we
might today best call a screw machine of an early and prescient
sort. It made use of a leadscrew to guide the cutter to produce
the desired pitch,[56] and the slot was cut with a rotary file
while the main spindle held still (presaging live tools on
lathes 250 years later). Not until 1776 did the Wyatt brothers
have a wood-screw factory up and running.[56] Their enterprise
failed, but new owners soon made it prosper, and in the 1780s
they were producing 16,000 screws a day with only 30
employees[57]—the kind of industrial productivity and output
volume that would later be characteristic of modern industry but
was revolutionary at the time.
--- End Quote ---
#Post#: 13161--------------------------------------------------
Re: Dress decolonization
DIR By: rp
Date: April 30, 2022, 2:05 am
---------------------------------------------------------
Another thing I wanted to mention about the Kim picture is the
face shapes. While Kim may not be the most Aryan looking guy,
Moon has an undeniably Gentillic face shape.
#Post#: 13312--------------------------------------------------
Re: Dress decolonization
DIR By: 90sRetroFan
Date: May 13, 2022, 9:10 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
HTML https://www.yahoo.com/news/am-choosing-literally-wear-chinese-130036049.html
--- Quote ---
> a memory of my first job as a community organizer in San
Francisco in the spring of 2002. “Racist fashion’s got to go!” I
chanted, assembled with hundreds of Asian American protesters on
Market Street. We raised our voices against retailer Abercrombie
& Fitch for releasing a series of graphic tees with Asian
stereotypes, like “Wong Brothers Laundry Service ― Two
Wongs Can Make it White” and “Buddha Bash ― Get Your
Buddha on the Floor.”
>
> Then, too, my parents told me — in equal parts pride and worry
— to keep them posted on our campaign. “Stay safe outside on the
streets,” they said.
>
> The risk of asserting myself felt urgent back then. And,
today, I’ve decided anew that being nondescript and subtle will
not protect me. The truth is, just showing my face in America
has been enough to make me a target for harassment or attack on
the street in the middle of the day. I’ve decided I’m acting on
a conscious dare of standing firm in my identity, not shrinking
from it. I’m resisting my vulnerability with visibility.
> ...
> Recently I’ve made another, more surprising, sartorial choice:
I started searching online for vintage Chinese dresses and
integrating them into my at-home ensembles and my emerging
post-pandemic wardrobe. A cheongsam, translated as “long dress”
in Cantonese, is a sheath dress with a high mandarin collar and
asymmetrical opening fastened by interlocking knotted buttons
and loops of hua niu, or flower buttons. In my cheongsams, I can
put myself together even when I feel fragmented, struggling to
process being both Chinese and American in a country that has
always had anti-Asian racism coursing through its veins.
>
> I’ve acquired 15 of these iconic dresses from secondhand
shops, boutiques and vintage stores. Each figures prominently in
my power-up wardrobe, making a conscious statement about my
heritage, my culture, my visibility and my pride.
>
>
[img]
HTML https://s.yimg.com/ny/api/res/1.2/BjOV6yJIhGJsX8tNSl0hLw--/YXBwaWQ9aGlnaGxhbmRlcjt3PTcwNTtoPTk0MDtjZj13ZWJw/https://s.yimg.com/uu/api/res/1.2/qbrLkcpcdG.rNOMc73XeKw--~B/aD04NDA7dz02MzA7YXBwaWQ9eXRhY2h5b24-/https://media.zenfs.com/en/the_huffington_post_584/b188dd745be88242997fdf52255bc653[/img]
--- End Quote ---
Thank you for at least making an effort. However, note that the
dresses you bought are already Westernized versions:
HTML https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cheongsam#History
--- Quote ---
> The predecessor of the more well known qipao resembled the
men’s changpao. The changpao was a long gown commonly associated
with the male literati class. The first 1920s iteration was
androgynous and had a “wide, angular and puritanical cut”[8]
--- End Quote ---
In other words, the original versions were low in sexual
dimorphism. But then:
--- Quote ---
> According to the Clothing Regulations, the cheongsam needed to
be worn with trousers and be calf-length, but with the
introduction of Western fashion many people replaced trousers
with stockings and added matching accessories. The side slits
were re-purposed into an aesthetic design reaching the top of
the thighs to reflect the new fashion trend. By the 1940s,
trousers had completely fallen out of use, replaced by different
type of hosiery. High-heeled shoes were another fashion trend
introduced to Shanghai at the same time, and it became an
essential part of cheongsam fashion set, which continued into
modern days.[13] As trend of hosiery in turn declined in later
decades, women started to wear cheongsam more commonly with bare
legs. While this development settled the cheongsam as a
one-piece dress, by contrast, the related Vietnamese áo dài
retained trousers.
>
> The modernized version of cheongsam is noted for accentuating
the figures of women, and as such was popular as a dress for
high society. As Western fashions evolved, so does the cheongsam
design, with introduction of high-necked sleeveless dresses,
bell-like sleeves, and the black lace frothing at the hem of a
ball gown. By the 1940s, cheongsam came in a wide variety of
fabrics with an equal variety of accessories.
--- End Quote ---
Westernization leads to increased sexual dimorphism every time.
Before Westernization:
HTML https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/46/Traditional_Chinese_costume_01.jpg/1280px-Traditional_Chinese_costume_01.jpg
After Westernization:
HTML https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b5/Red_qipao.jpg/682px-Red_qipao.jpg
See the difference?
If you are serious about decolonizing your wardrobe, go for the
pre-Westernized versions!
#Post#: 13375--------------------------------------------------
Re: Dress decolonization
DIR By: 90sRetroFan
Date: May 15, 2022, 11:37 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
Let's talk about yet another uniquely Western inferiority:
HTML https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shoe_polish
--- Quote ---
> As leather with a high natural veneer became popular in the
18th century, a high glossy finish became important,
particularly on shoes and boots. In most cases, homemade
polishes were used to provide this finish, often with lanolin or
beeswax as a base.[citation needed]
>
> In the late 18th and early 19th century many forms of shoe
polish became available, yet were rarely referred to as shoe
polish or boot polish. Instead, they were often called blacking,
especially when mixed with lampblack, or still were referred to
as dubbin. Tallow, an animal by-product, was used to manufacture
a simple form of shoe polish at this time. Chicago, where 82% of
the processed meat consumed in the United States was processed
in the stock yards, became a major shoe polish producing
area.[5]
>
> In London the Warren brothers, Thomas and Jonathan, started
making blacking around 1795–98, initially in partnership and
then with competing companies. Jonathan Warren's Blacking
company is noted as the first employer of the young Charles
Dickens aged 12 in 1823.[6] The competitor to the Warren
companies in London is the Day & Martin company formed in
1801.[7]
> ...
> Other early leather preserving products included the Irish
brand Punch, which was first made in 1851. In 1889, an English
man by the name of William Edward Wren, started making shoe
polishes and dubbin under the brand name Wren's. In just 3
years, he won the “First in the Field – First Award Leather
Trades Exhibition 1892″ award which was awarded by the
Leather Trades Exhibition held in Northampton, the centre of
Britain’s boot making industry. This signified the importance
and prestige of the exhibition in the trade and was a
recognition of Wren's quality. In 1890 the Kroner Brothers
established EOS, a shoe polish factory in Berlin, which serviced
the Prussian military. It finally closed in 1934 when the Nazis
forbade Jews to operate a business.[10]
--- End Quote ---
Hail Hitler! Seriously, somehow every other civilization in
history managed fine without shoe polish for thousands of years,
and then Western civilization just had to introduce this totally
unnecessary item into existence, and then worst of all manage to
convince the rest of the world (or at least the Eurocentrists
among them, who were unfortunately the majorities everywhere)
that they needed it:
--- Quote ---
> Shoe polish was to be found just about everywhere Allied
troops ventured.[17] American war correspondent Walter Graeber
wrote for TIME magazine from the Tobruk trenches in 1942 that
"old tins of British-made Kiwi polish lay side by side with
empty bottles of Chianti."[18] A story indicative of the rise in
global significance of shoe polish is told by Jean (Gertrude)
Williams, a New Zealander who lived in Japan during the Allied
occupation straight after World War II. American soldiers were
then finding the dullness of their boots and shoes to be a
handicap when trying to win the affections of Japanese
women.[14] U.S. military footwear of the time was produced in
brown leather with the rough side out.
>
> When the British Commonwealth Occupation Forces arrived in
Japan—all with boots polished to a degree not known in the U.S.
forces—the G.I.s were more conscious than ever of their feet.
The secret was found to rest not only in spit and polish, but in
the superior Australian boot polish, a commodity which was soon
exchanged with the Americans on a fluctuating basis of so many
packets of cigarettes for one can of Kiwi boot polish.[citation
needed]
--- End Quote ---
Sigh.....
HTML http://www.herc.org/library/msds/shoepolish.htm
--- Quote ---
> Carcinogenicity - NTP: YES
> Carcinogenicity - IARC: YES
> Carcinogenicity - OSHA: YES
> DYES HAVE BEEN FOUND TO INDUCE CANCER IN LABORATORY ANIMALS
DURING LONG-
> TERM FEEDING STUDIES OF DYE.
--- End Quote ---
#Post#: 14777--------------------------------------------------
Re: Dress decolonization
DIR By: Zea_mays
Date: July 19, 2022, 9:29 am
---------------------------------------------------------
At least Westerners don't do this anymore:
--- Quote ---
> Breeching was the occasion when a small boy was first dressed
in breeches or trousers. From the mid-16th century[1] until the
late 19th or early 20th century, young boys in the Western world
were unbreeched and wore gowns or dresses until an age that
varied between two and eight.[2] Various forms of relatively
subtle differences usually enabled others to tell little boys
from little girls, in codes that modern art historians are able
to understand but may be difficult to discern for the layperson.
>
> Breeching was an important rite of passage in the life of a
boy, looked forward to with much excitement, and often
celebrated with a small party. It often marked the point at
which the father became more involved with the raising of a boy.
> [...]
> In the 19th century, photographs were often taken of the boy
in his new trousers, typically with his father. He might also
collect small gifts of money by going round the neighbourhood
showing off his new clothes. Friends, of the mother as much as
the boy, might gather to see his first appearance. A letter of
1679 from Lady Anne North to her widowed and absent son gives a
lengthy account of the breeching of her grandson
> [...]
> In England and some other countries, many school uniforms
still mandate shorts for boys until about nine or ten.
--- End Quote ---
HTML https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breeching_(boys)
HTML https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/8b/Franklin-Roosevelt-1884.jpg
--- Quote ---
> Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1884, at the age of 2.
--- End Quote ---
On the other hand, they still have gendered pink and blue baby
clothes...
#Post#: 15164--------------------------------------------------
Re: Dress decolonization
DIR By: 90sRetroFan
Date: August 16, 2022, 4:25 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
Eurocentrist police stupidity:
HTML https://www.yahoo.com/news/wrong-anything-anime-fan-china-233612326.html
--- Quote ---
> Anime fan in China says she was interrogated by police for
wearing kimono
> ...
> In a video that purportedly shows her encounter with officers,
an officer shouts at the woman, questioning her identity.
>
> “If you come here wearing Hanfu, I wouldn’t say this. But you
are wearing a kimono, as a Chinese person. You are a Chinese!
Are you?” the officer shouts at the woman.
--- End Quote ---
Meanwhile, "Chinese" government officials regularly wear Western
dress while on duty officially representing China FFS:
HTML http://english.www.gov.cn/rw/Pub/GOV/p1/Content/News/Images/2017/10/25/xi960b.jpg
but the police don't go after them for it. Yet a civilian is
arrested for wearing Japanese dress in her own time?! Why the
double-standard? (Answer: pervasive Eurocentrism.)
The truth is:
HTML https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kimono
--- Quote ---
> The first instances of kimono-like garments in Japan were
traditional Chinese clothing introduced to Japan via Chinese
envoys in the Kofun period (300 – 538 CE; the first part of the
Yamato period), with immigration between the two countries and
envoys to the Tang dynasty court leading to Chinese styles of
dress, appearance and culture becoming extremely popular in
Japanese court society.[1] The Imperial Japanese court quickly
adopted Chinese styles of dress and clothing,[6]
> ...
> In 718 CE, the Yoro clothing code was instituted, which
stipulated that all robes had to be overlapped at the front with
a left-to-right closure, following typical Chinese
fashions.[9]: 133–136 
--- End Quote ---
To not positively welcome ancient Japanese dress in China is to
be ashamed of ancient Chinese cultural influence.
HTML https://smallimg.pngkey.com/png/small/129-1297667_clip-free-stock-collection-of-free-failing-clipart.png
Yes, I know Japan was part of the:
HTML https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eight-Nation_Alliance
but that was post-Meiji Japan. And guess what (back to previous
link):
--- Quote ---
> During the Meiji period, the opening of Japan to Western trade
after the enclosure of the Edo period led to a drive towards
Western dress as a sign of "modernity". After an edict by
Emperor Meiji,[citation needed] policemen, railroad workers and
teachers moved to wearing Western clothing within their job
roles, with the adoption of Western clothing by men in Japan
happening at a much greater pace than by women. Initiatives such
as the Tokyo Women's & Children's Wear Manufacturers'
Association
(東京婦人子供服組合)
promoted Western dress as everyday clothing.
--- End Quote ---
See also:
HTML https://trueleft.createaforum.com/colonial-era/shimabara-rebellion-the-christian-revolt-that-isolated-medieval-japan/msg13812/#msg13812
HTML https://trueleft.createaforum.com/colonial-era/shimabara-rebellion-the-christian-revolt-that-isolated-medieval-japan/msg13827/#msg13827
The best way to express disapproval towards post-Meiji Japan is
to celebrate pre-Meiji Japan.
#Post#: 15689--------------------------------------------------
Re: Dress decolonization
DIR By: 90sRetroFan
Date: September 16, 2022, 6:13 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
Nice!
HTML https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ooK5mGeJdqs
#Post#: 16111--------------------------------------------------
Re: Dress decolonization
DIR By: 90sRetroFan
Date: October 19, 2022, 7:42 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
How sartorially colonized was pre-1979 Iran?
HTML https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fashion_in_Iran
--- Quote ---
> Attempts at changing dress norms (and perspectives toward it)
occurred in mid-1930s when pro-Western ruler Reza Shah issued a
decree banning all veils.[9][10][11][12][13] Many types of male
traditional clothing were also banned.[14][15][16]
> ...
> A far larger escalation of violence occurred in the summer of
1935 when Reza Shah ordered all men to wear European-style
bowler hat, which was Western par excellence. This provoked
massive non-violent demonstrations in July in the city of
Mashhad.[19][10][12][14][15][16][20]
> ...
> Later, official measures relaxed slightly under next ruler and
wearing of the headscarf or chador was no longer an offence, but
for his regime it became a significant hindrance to climbing the
social ladder as it was considered a badge of backwardness and
an indicator of being a member of the lower class.[17]
--- End Quote ---
HTML https://smallimg.pngkey.com/png/small/129-1297667_clip-free-stock-collection-of-free-failing-clipart.png
In Iran, headscarfs are leftist:
--- Quote ---
> A few years prior to the Iranian revolution, a tendency
towards questioning the relevance of Eurocentric gender roles as
the model for Iranian society gained much ground among
university students, and this sentiment was manifested in street
demonstrations where many women from the non-veiled middle
classes put on the veil[9][17][10][22][23] and symbolically
rejected the gender ideology of Pahlavi regime and its
aggressive deculturalization.[9][17][10][11][23] Wearing of
headscarf and chador was one of main symbols of the 1979
revolution,[10][11][24][23] Wearing headscarves and chadors was
used as a significant populist tool and Iranian veiled women
played an important rule in the revolution's
victory.[17][11][13]
--- End Quote ---
Present-day False Leftists outside of Iran seem to have no
awareness of this historical context. If you support the
anti-headscarf protestors in Iran, you are supporting
Eurocentrism!
And one more thing about Reza Eurocentrist Pahlavi:
HTML https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reza_Shah
--- Quote ---
> Reza Shah was the first Iranian Monarch in 1400 years who paid
respect to the Jews by praying in the synagogue when visiting
the Jewish community of Isfahan; an act that boosted the
self-esteem of the Iranian Jews and made Reza Shah their second
most respected Iranian leader after Cyrus the Great.
--- End Quote ---
See also:
HTML https://trueleft.createaforum.com/news/iran/msg15794/#msg15794
HTML https://trueleft.createaforum.com/news/iran/msg15960/#msg15960
#Post#: 16114--------------------------------------------------
Re: Dress decolonization
DIR By: SirGalahad
Date: October 20, 2022, 12:35 am
---------------------------------------------------------
While in general I still support the current Iranian regime, I
can’t help but feel that they deserve these protests in a way.
Women in Iran should be allowed to not wear a hijab without fear
of the mistreatment, cruelty or harassment that I’ve both read
about and seen lately, because that choice is ultimately a
non-violent one. I think that Iran is partially responsible for
ruining its own image in the same way that the Eurocentric clown
Xi Jinping doesn’t do China any favors either. While both of
those countries have dealt with intense western smear campaigns,
I think that Iran would be in a better position in terms of PR
if the regime had made an attempt to stamp out some of the
attitudes and behaviors that sparked this protest in the first
place
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