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       #Post#: 31--------------------------------------------------
       AMATEUR RADIO Ground theories part 2
   DIR By: K4KGP
       Date: October 6, 2020, 12:41 pm
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       NEVER connect copper to galvanized or aluminum towers - use a
       stainless steel interface
       between the two metals with a stainless steel clamp, bolt,
       washer, and nut!
       * Copper oxide (the greenish copper corrosion) is NOT
       conductive! Eventually compression
       clamps WILL allow corrosion to migrate into joints, causing a
       reduction in conductivity and
       increase the connections’ overall resistance. Weld or solder ALL
       joints, when possible. This will
       ensure long life and maintain stable good conductivity between
       connections. If a stainless steel
       clamp is used, a conductive grease is required to minimize
       connection moisture degradation.
       * Eliminate ground loops and multi-point ground connections when
       possible. A ham shack
       ground loop gives lightning another path to your equipment.
       Always use a single-point ground
       between the interior and exterior of your ham shack.
       * Run your coax/hard-lines to the base of your tower or antenna
       mast and directly connect to the
       coax/hard-line shield clamps to the tower/mast base. This will
       allow the lightning to get as close
       to the actual ground connection before attempting to enter the
       house. When creating a drip
       bend in coax/hard-line, use a minimum radius of nine inches for
       the curves.
       * Grounding-rod depths are critical. You can find the
       recommended grounding depth by
       checking your local plumbing or building codes. In central
       Wisconsin the minimum depth is six
       feet, in central Texas it is eight feet, and in part of Arizona
       it is ten feet-so check that out. The
       ideal grounding situation is in having your ground system make
       physical contact with the water
       table, but this is not very likely.
       Grounding Rods vs. Pipes
       Due to economics and the effort required to drive rods, I’ve
       taken another approach in lieu of
       rods. (Besides four foot rods are worthless as they do not make
       enough soil contact for an
       adequate safety ground, much less an RF ground.) I use ten foot
       pieces of 0.5" copper pipe
       fitted with a brass hose fitting. I purchase a brass hose
       fitting from a local hardware store and
       solder this fitting to the end of the copper pipe. This allows
       me to attach a garden water hose
       and easily hydra-drill the copper pipe into the soil. No mallet
       or “T” post sledge for me. (Most of
       the time) I dug a one foot square deep hole in the ground where
       the ground pipe is to be drilled.
       I drilled the pipe into the ground until the pipe top was 6"
       below the surface of the ground. This
       allowed working room to solder the copper tubing and then cover
       the hole, making it invisible to
       all and your lawn mower.
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