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       #Post#: 102941--------------------------------------------------
       Changing the break light switch on a 2A
       By: YorkshireKev Date: January 27, 2019, 3:01 pm
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       My Series 2A break lights don't work  :(  I've isolated the
       problem down to the break light switch. Mine is the type that is
       on a junction in the break pipe that works off the hydraulic
       pressure caused when you stamp on the pedal.
       Anyone have any tips for changing the switch? I'm especially
       keen not to have to drain the break system and have to re-bleed
       it is that's at all possible.
       Cheers,
       Kev.
       #Post#: 102951--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Changing the break light switch on a 2A
       By: YorkshireKev Date: January 29, 2019, 4:39 pm
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       Was thinking.. if i put a plastic bag, something like a freezer
       bag, under the filler cap to seal it off. Woukd that prevent the
       fluid from flooding out when i remove the break light switch?
       #Post#: 102952--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Changing the break light switch on a 2A
       By: kev Date: January 29, 2019, 4:46 pm
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       I did mine years back, and as I recall I did put a plaggy bag
       over the bean can and did the lid up.
       I think I managed to get away with not bleeding owt by sticking
       my finger over the hole as I removed the old switch, and then
       quickly fitted the new.
       My memory is getting shite nowadays though. :)
       #Post#: 102953--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Changing the break light switch on a 2A
       By: YorkshireKev Date: January 30, 2019, 1:57 pm
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       Cheers Kev. I think I'll give it a go and do the same... when
       the weather gets a bit warmer mind.
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