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#Post#: 102820--------------------------------------------------
Steering Relay Questions
By: Correus Date: May 15, 2018, 5:39 pm
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Hello everyone -
Have a couple of steering relay questions.
From what I can tell the Satan spring is in good shape but I'm
thinking about taking it apart so the bushing can be checked
out.
Do any of you have a method, or homemade tool, for shoving that
thing back into place? Something simple, with pics, would be
great.
Per the manual it says that if the resistance of the top
steering arm is less than 12lbs replace the spring. With both
caps off the arm on mine moves around the 20lbs mark. The
movement is also jerky.
Based on this the spring is good but more lube is needed between
the bushings and the rod. The manual says to remove the thrust
washer and press the bushings down and add oil between them and
the rod.
HOW THE HOLY FUCK DO YOU REMOVE THE FRIGGIN' THRUST WASHER?!?!
:smiley-furious:
If I could do this I imagine the relay would work the way it
should.
#Post#: 102844--------------------------------------------------
Re: Steering Relay Questions
By: PROPERJOB Date: May 28, 2018, 1:22 am
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Hi,
I have rebuilt a relay unfortunately I don't have any pics and
my method wouldn't meet any health and safety standards but it
worked:
- Dismantle as per the manual, and old pillow case is essential
to capture the bits, even if your spring is kanckered.
- Put the new bottom bushes on the shaft and use a jubilee clip
to retain
- Put 3 big cable ties at around the spring equal distance apart
and put the spring in a vice
- Tighten the vice 1 turn at a time, after each turn tighten up
the cable ties. Repeat until the spring will fit betweeen the
top and bottom bush.
- Install the top bush and jubilee clip. Place the bush in the
housing and place a piece of wood on top of the shaft then tap
down the shaft with a hammer. Once the bushes are in remove the
bottom jubilee clip and the cable ties. Tap the shaft down until
the top bushes are in and remove that jubilee clip
.
Reassemble the top cover. Worth saying that the oil holes in my
relay had not been properly drilled through so the thing had no
oil in it hence why it was knackered...
#Post#: 102907--------------------------------------------------
Re: Steering Relay Questions
By: w3526602 Date: December 3, 2018, 11:53 am
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Hi,
Under no circumstance hit the bottom of the splined shaft to
persuade the relay to come out of it's hole in the chassis. I
did.
The relay casting broke neatly in two, The top half of the
casting, and all of the shaft, made a hole in my garage ceiling.
So how shoul the relay be removed? Er ... answers on a postcard
please. But be warned, the spring inside the relay is lethal.
602
#Post#: 102908--------------------------------------------------
Re: Steering Relay Questions
By: kev Date: December 3, 2018, 1:18 pm
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[quote author=w3526602 link=topic=9920.msg102907#msg102907
date=1543859619]
Hi,
Under no circumstance hit the bottom of the splined shaft to
persuade the relay to come out of it's hole in the chassis. I
did.
The relay casting broke neatly in two, The top half of the
casting, and all of the shaft, made a hole in my garage ceiling.
So how shoul the relay be removed? Er ... answers on a postcard
please. But be warned, the spring inside the relay is lethal.
602
[/quote]
I tried everything, jacking, whacking, spraying, etc., over a
week. I ended up cutting the section of chassis out with it in
situ, then sourcing a bit of a scrap shazzy with the relay
already removed, and welding it in it's place.
Generous dollops of copper grease were usedwhen re-fitting.
I've never split a relay to repair, but it has been said that
putting it in a pillowcase helps. - If it were me, I'd double
bag it!
#Post#: 102909--------------------------------------------------
Re: Steering Relay Questions
By: Sunny Jim Date: December 3, 2018, 3:48 pm
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I used tool makers (parallel) clamps to hold the spring
compressed whilst sliding it over the shaft - I had a full face
mask on just in case!
I actually built one up new from new old stock parts so never
dismantled the original which went with the old chassis into a
scrap metal skip.
Sunny Jim
#Post#: 102918--------------------------------------------------
Re: Steering Relay Questions
By: w3526602 Date: December 31, 2018, 2:39 am
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Hi,
Perhaps it would, possibly, maybe, help if somebody could tell
us the EXACT OD of the machined section at the bottom of the
relay, which is the bit that sticks.
That way, we could find a bit of steel bar that is a smidgen
smaller, and about 50mm long, drilled to be a slightly sloppy
fit over the bottom splines.
The fit over the splines does not want to be too loose, as this
is what will centralise the tool under the relay. If it is too
sloppy, the tool will go off centre, and press against the
bottom of the cross member, instead of the relay. Chamfering the
top face of the tool slightly, might help.
Remove both steering arms, both horizontal top bolts, and all
four set screws in bottom which will allow the bottom locating
ring to drop off. Spray bottom of relay liberally with your
preferred release agent, take SWMBO for a weekend in Monte
Carlo.
Return from MC suitably refreshed, and either very broke or very
rich.
Place the tool you made especially for the occasion over the
bottom splines, and hold it in place with your trusty trolley
jack. Tack a deep breath, and start jacking. I suspect that the
chassis will lift on it's springs, but not much else. Me? I
would keep jacking until the driver's side front wheel is clear
of the ground, and the passenger side is nearly clear of the
ground ... all the weight of front of truck is trying to push
the relay up out of the chassis. I'd be surprised, but very
happy, if the relay moved.
As all the weight is being taken on the bottom on the relay,
some vibration from judicious application of a suitably sized
kinetic tool, local to the relay, may persuade the rust to let
go. Me? I'd use a small club hammer. I wouldn't be trying to
knock the relay out, but rather to vibrate things. I don't
really expect this to work but it has to be tried.
Now try some of your own ideas.
Me? I would drill a 1/4" dia hole, in the front of the
crossmember, half way up, and aiming for the centre line of the
relay. Drill through both "skins".
Using the little plastic pipe, empty a can of WD 40, or
whatever, into the recess round the "waist" of the relay. (Take
SWMBO to Monte Carlo again ... your luck must change sometime)
while the oil soaks through the rust.
If all else fails, but a cushion over the top of the relay, and
hammer the bottom spline UP with a big hammer. First time I did
that, the relay casting broke in two, with the top bit (and
shaft) hitting the garage roof (Make that a BIG cushion ...
possibly with a plank above it, resting across the wings).
I think I knocked the bottom bit down out of the chassis, fairly
easily. Not that it mattered by that time, as I was fitting a
new chassis, and the cost of a relay wasalmost irrelevent.
I wonder if Richards could make chassis with provision for a
grease nipple on the front X-member, so that the space between
the relay and its hole could be pumped full of water-pump
grease? If nothing else, grease the body of the relay, and the
tube it's going to sit in.
This particular subject might benefit from more discussion ...
eg: Do not even try to knock the relay out of your old chassis,
instead CUT IT OUT.
602
#Post#: 102936--------------------------------------------------
Re: Steering Relay Questions
By: w3526602 Date: January 24, 2019, 2:04 am
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Hi,
Has anybody considered the cost of leaving the relay in place in
the cross member, and simply hacking part of it out from between
the chassis rails, and welding in a new cross member. The relay
can then be removed from the old cross-member "on the bench".
I have no idea of the cost of a new cross-member ... or even a
"short" drop-down and weld-in section. Discuss!
602
#Post#: 102937--------------------------------------------------
Re: Steering Relay Questions
By: kev Date: January 24, 2019, 5:19 am
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Yes, did it a few years ago, cut mine out, and welded new
section in with new relay. :)
#Post#: 102938--------------------------------------------------
Re: Steering Relay Questions
By: Dieselspanner Date: January 24, 2019, 2:51 pm
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If you're going to cut it out - and why not - and there's enough
strength in the remainder to weld back to, could you not cut it
out neatly with a 4 1/2" grinder and a slitting disc and then
weld the same piece back in, with maybe a couple of plates
inside to give you a bit more support?
Cheers
Stef
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