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#Post#: 102699--------------------------------------------------
Re: 200TDI into a Series III
By: Dieselspanner Date: December 31, 2017, 10:52 am
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Well the bugger's in there!
I failed to find countersunk bolts so I got some 10mm cap heads
and with the cordless drill and bench grinder 'turned' the heads
down to 14mm so as not to remove too much parent metal from the
adaptor plate. When I'd finished I plugged everything up with
copper slip, if they have to come out again and I get stuck with
the job it shouldn't be too hard
The Disgay adaptor plate had the bosses cast into it for the
three bottom studs and the one at 2 o'clock that the Series bell
housing uses. As they were pilot bored I drilled them out and
tapped them 10mm and knocked up some extra studs, whatever else
goes wrong it won't be the bell housing parting company with the
adaptor plate!
After two hours of shoving the lump about I gave up and pulled
all the studs bar two and it slid in easy, getting the studs
back in was a pain but not impossible. The one under the starter
motor and the one behind the front prop shaft are the ones that
would benefit from smaller nuts, not having any I 'distanced'
them from the bell housing with three extra washers and
'machined' the nuts down to 5/8" AF with a slitting disc in the
angle grinder
After getting the engine mounts on I found the turbo resting on
the 'ear' on the rear of the left hand mount, 10 minuets
hacksawing in an awkward position fixed that.
The turbo is tight for space and the whole thing is so corroded
that I'm loath to try and loosen the bolts to clock it, so I'll
live with it as is and massage the inner wing to suit. Anyone
with a 300 tdi manifold and turbo who wants to part with it
please let me know.
Jimmy.
I've checked the oil cooler mount as you suggested and there's
no thermostat there, the feed and return to the oil cooler have
been blanked off properly so I guess where ever it was living
before was without the benefit of the 'cooler.
Question.
Is there a bigger than standard oil filter? There's plenty of
room for one around twice as large and it would help the lack of
oil cooler situation.
Now all I gotta do is put everything back where it should be and
sort the plumbing out...........
I intend to put the Series injectors (Serviced 50 k ago at a
cost of €240) and the injector pump on Ebay eventually unless
someone here shouts first, anyone who would like what's left of
the 2 1/4 diesel can have it for a bottle of decent red, if they
come and get it. The bottom end is OK, it smokes like Dot Cotton
on the overrun (and we got big downhills here in the Pyrenees)
It stood so long - almost 14 years - it may only be the valve
seals having gone hard, but best assume it needs a full head
overhaul.
All the best for 2018
Cheers Stef
#Post#: 102700--------------------------------------------------
Re: 200TDI into a Series III
By: Arjan Date: January 1, 2018, 4:49 am
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Bonjour,
I have no idea why, but clicking the " Attachments and other
options" doesn't work for me anymore - can't attach pics, no
matter what I try.... : sorry.
Yes, we have held up the flywheelhousing in the correct position
and drilled 4 new holes in the bellhousing.
Everything went in very nicely and we found the lack of "bosses"
to be no problem. Just a good washer did the job. I suppose, if
you're worried about that, you can make some small "widgets" to
go under the bolthead.
A very, very simple solution en just lik Mr. Land Rover did it
#Post#: 102701--------------------------------------------------
Re: 200TDI into a Series III
By: Dieselspanner Date: January 2, 2018, 1:21 am
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Hi Arjan
I'll bear that in mind for the next one!
I didn't want to strip the flywheel housing off the block so I
made up a template and eyed up the situation, then bottled
drilling the holes in the bell housing!
As I said above, the flywheel housing had the internal bosses
cast in and pre drilled (I presume this is a result of the Land
Rover engine development over the years, everything seems to
have been a linear progression and allowance for mounting every
combination of power plant in every model of vehicle, keeping as
much possible from the previous incarnation, right up until the
TD5) so I went down the other route.
Given the amount of time I spent driving down the mountain and
trolling around our nearest 'big' city for bolts I'd probably
been quicker fabricating a new flywheel housing from scratch!
Bonne Annee
Stef
#Post#: 102759--------------------------------------------------
Re: 200TDI into a Series III
By: kob95 Date: February 11, 2018, 8:02 pm
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More details on the 2.5 liter gasoline engine installation,
located at 200Tdi.
PLEASE STOP POSTING DODGY LINKS THAT DO NOT WORK. - ADMIN.
#Post#: 102765--------------------------------------------------
Re: 200TDI into a Series III
By: Dieselspanner Date: February 24, 2018, 10:43 am
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Hi All
Well I finally got the the whole thing in and running, only to
find a bloody great oil leak somewhere behind the flywheel..
In 10 minuets of ticking over I had an 8" puddle of oil drip, at
a fairly fast rate of knots, out of the drain plug.
Is there anything other than the main oil seal in this area or
am I going to have to pull the engine back out?
Cheers Stef
#Post#: 102766--------------------------------------------------
Re: 200TDI into a Series III
By: Arjan Date: February 24, 2018, 1:27 pm
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Hi Stef,
I'm afraid it sounds like the rear crankshaft seal needs
replacing.
That's why we replace them on the Tdi's when the engines are
out, regardless.
#Post#: 102771--------------------------------------------------
Re: 200TDI into a Series III
By: Dieselspanner Date: February 25, 2018, 2:32 pm
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Thanks for that. Arjan
I rather thought that would be the answer.
The sad thing is, the mate that suppplied me the motor changed
the front and rear oil seals, cam belt and water pump for me,
looks like he stuffed the rear one right up.
On the positive side there's one or two things I would have done
different when I did the next one, looks like that's now.
The wireing loom was shabby so I pulled it to bits from the
bulkhead forward and split it into a 'Y' shape, one leg to each
headlight, to make removing the grill and rad easier, forward
planning or what!
Cheers Stef
#Post#: 102787--------------------------------------------------
Re: 200TDI into a Series III
By: Dieselspanner Date: March 21, 2018, 3:40 am
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Having waited 2 bloody weeks for the new crank rear oil seal,
the French parcel post service, Chronopost (there’s a clue in
the name) is crap up here in the mountains, and then having 3
weeks of skiers in the chalet, I’ve got it all together and
running nicely.
Here’s some of wot I did…….
The seal was a brand new one and had split, I don’t know if it
was a dodgy one, or careless installation, but my mate had done
it with the flywheel housing still in place. I dismounted it,
and cleaned and polished the end of the crank and the inside of
the recess with wet and dry to clean up the historical damage.
There was quite a lot of corrosion and the seal had not been
driven all the way down into its recess.
Judging by the amount and different colours of silicone behind
the housing I wasn't the first visitor there, by a long way. It
took a fair bit of cleaning up.
I used two long 10mm bolts having temporarily removed the
standard studs, to hold the housing steady whilst I fitted the
seal over the crank and then replace them with the original
studs once it was in place.I also only applied only the
recommended amount of silicone, in the pattern shown in the
manual.
Having seen the crap on the end of the crank and the gouges
where old seals had been removed in the past (I pulled the
latest ‘old’ seal out by drilling a couple of self tappers into
the seal’s metal casing and using a small crowbar to drag it
out) not removing the flywheel housing to change the seal is a
false economy.
The starter motor sounded rough so I pulled that and the bearing
was shot, as going it’s a pig to replace in the future I fitted
a new one.
Having struggled to fit the wiring with the motor in the Landy
the first time, I made small ‘harness’ to connect the starter
feed from the battery (now under the passenger seat) and the
feed to the solenoid, to an isolated terminal on the bulkhead,
allowing the connections to be fitted to the starter before the
motor went in. Once the battery isolator arrives (from China,
via Ebay) to replace my homemade terminal, the cut out switch
will be accessible from inside the cab, through the sloping part
of the bulkhead.
Don’t forget to fit the first section of the Steve Parker
exhaust to the turbo before fitting the motor, like it says in
the instructions, ask me how I know……
I cut out the battery tray support and made a triangular
bracket, fitted to three of the original uprights, to hold the
series oil bath air cleaner between the injector pump and the
radiator and passed the original corrugated pipe across the
front of the motor and connected it to the turbo inlet with a
pipe I found down the scrappies, no idea what i came off but it
fits perfectly
I relocated the ‘CAV’ type fuel filter next to the air filter,
alongside the injector pump, by turning the original banjos on
the pump around and using a few fittings from the 2/14 pump it
was easy to plumb it in neatly, and future filter changes will
be simple.
To overcome the lack of a switched position for the injector
solenoid (which remains live when the starter is engaged) on the
ignition switch I screwed a 12v full bridge rectifier to the
bulkhead next to the resistor for the original heater plugs, and
connected a feed from the heater plugs to one AC input and a
feed from the live side of the brake light switch to the other
(Thus the solenoid is live which ever position the key is in,
apart from off, obviously!) The solenoid is then fed from the +
terminal. It saves sourcing and fitting another ignition switch
and doesn't look out of place.
The pre heat plugs I fed from the 12v side of the resistor, I
left the 6v bulb (which is fed from the 6v side of the resistor)
in the speedo alone, I’ll change it all to 12v when the bulb
blows.
I’ve left the series rad in, the top hose fits with the series
thermostat housing, the bottom hose connects nicely with a 90°
and a 180° 38mm silicone hose bend. With a bit of careful
trimming and a joint between them it looks like it grew there.
The turbo to inlet manifold connection I’ve made with various
hose culled from the scrappies. It looks neat enough. I’ll see
how that goes and maybe fit an intercooler later. Any
suggestions as to where to find something that will fit ahead of
the series radiator are welcome.
A bit of a long post, guys on here have been very helpful to
me, so I feel feedback id due. I’m sure I’ll need more help in
the future and it might help the next bloke!
Cheers
Stef
#Post#: 102788--------------------------------------------------
Re: 200TDI into a Series III
By: Dieselspanner Date: March 21, 2018, 3:51 am
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Having just checked my post was ok it seems the 'Later Land
Rover Auto Correct' app has got me!
The part that reads 'with a boingy° and a 180° 38mm silicone
hose bend', should read 'with a ninety degree and a one hundred
and eighty degree silicone hose bend'
The other typos are mine!
Cheers Stef
#Post#: 102789--------------------------------------------------
Re: 200TDI into a Series III
By: Arjan Date: March 22, 2018, 12:20 pm
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Good - La Poste can be.... different at times
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