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#Post#: 102614--------------------------------------------------
3MB 2.25 T seal advice
By: PROPERJOB Date: October 24, 2017, 4:18 pm
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Hi all,
I am currently mid rebuild of my 2.25 3mb engine and have come
to the dreaded T seals. Now the rear crank seal comes with some
cork seals while the gasket set I have comes with rubber seals
which are much thicker than the cork ones (all supplied by
Turners)
I have tried fitting the cork seals and it was much more
straightforward than I envisaged with minimal effort to put the
rear bearing cap on, which has me worried that they won't seal
properly due to how little effort was required (bearing cap
pushed in by hand). I did give the seals a coating of RTV
sealant as well and am tempted to put the block on end and leave
some oil on it to see if it leaks but should I be taking the cap
out and fitting the rubber seals instead?
Thanks
#Post#: 102616--------------------------------------------------
Re: 3MB 2.25 T seal advice
By: D4B Date: October 28, 2017, 4:39 am
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As you are probably aware, I did this very job on my 3MB 2.25
series 3 Landy.
I used the cork seals which were a struggle to fit, and of
course the dreaded split type rear Oil Seal with that spring
clip. :smiley-furious:
Any way, of course it still leaks, but as I haven't taken it
apart since I don't know whether it's the cork seals or the rear
crank seal leaking.
I suspect it's the rear crank seal.
I called my local Land Rover specialist to get a quote to have
the job done professionally,
and he said that with the current poor quality of seals
available he wouldn't even attempt the job!!!
He said just leave as is!
So I did.
Good Luck with it.
Steve.
#Post#: 102624--------------------------------------------------
Re: 3MB 2.25 T seal advice
By: PROPERJOB Date: November 11, 2017, 7:20 am
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[quote author=D4B link=topic=9888.msg102616#msg102616
date=1509183551]
As you are probably aware, I did this very job on my 3MB 2.25
series 3 Landy.
I used the cork seals which were a struggle to fit, and of
course the dreaded split type rear Oil Seal with that spring
clip. :smiley-furious:
Any way, of course it still leaks, but as I haven't taken it
apart since I don't know whether it's the cork seals or the rear
crank seal leaking.
I suspect it's the rear crank seal.
I called my local Land Rover specialist to get a quote to have
the job done professionally,
and he said that with the current poor quality of seals
available he wouldn't even attempt the job!!!
He said just leave as is!
So I did.
Good Luck with it.
Steve.
[/quote]
Thanks Steve, I end up placing the block fly wheel end down on a
pallet then pouring oil all around the crank/seal and had no
leaks so will see how we get on..
On a separate note, did you replace the big end bolts? I can't
get them out of the conrods so was tempted to use new nuts but
manual says replace with new so don't want to skimp but they
seem impossible to remove.
#Post#: 102632--------------------------------------------------
Re: 3MB 2.25 T seal advice
By: Redwinch Date: November 20, 2017, 3:44 am
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Hi, I ran a 2 1/4 diesel bought in the 1970's for nearly a
quarter of a million miles, rebuilt 3 times (yes only 3 !!!)
rebored eventually to 060" over and 1 crank grind which you are
not supposed to do on the diesel, NEVER changed the con rod
bolts or main bearing bolts, maybe I was lucky, correct torque
and away you go :thumbs:
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