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#Post#: 101698--------------------------------------------------
Running hot and struggling to re-start.
By: Stu622 Date: September 1, 2016, 2:48 am
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Hello Everyone,
Does anyone have any experience of their series 3 running hot
and cranking for a long time before re-starting, usually in a
cloud of black smoke, after being turned off?
I took my series III to a "play site" yesterday and once warmed
up, it ran in the red area of the gauge the whole time and
struggled to re-start when stalled. Driving to work this
morning, it ran in the middle of the black area of the gauge the
whole time (17 miles on tarmac).
Vehicle is a 1982 series III petrol. Timing is at 3 deg BTDC and
the temperature sender is newish (6 months old), although it was
a cheap one, so maybe its misreading. Carb is a Weber ICH34.
My idea was to get it hot again and point a laser thermometer at
the top of the rad to check that the temp is actually high.
Other than that, I was thinking fuel vaporisation or fuel
delivery (weak pump) as causes of the poor re-start when hot. Or
carb float level checking.
I am grateful for any suggestions of things to look into or root
causes.
Thanks,
Stu.
#Post#: 101699--------------------------------------------------
Re: Running hot and struggling to re-start.
By: D4B Date: September 1, 2016, 3:13 am
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Hi Stu,
Can't shed any light on your problem, but thought i should share
my S3 experiences with you, also a petrol engine, 1981.
Mine has always runs in the red on the guage, I have replaced
the water temp sender, and the resistor thingy behind the dash,
but neither has made any
difference. My next plan is to swap the actual guage if i can
find one......
It seems to run ok, and much improved since rebuilding the
zenith carb the other day, including sanding down the mating
halves on a sheet of glass with 240 grit followed by 600 grit
wet n dry.
No other evidence of overheating, but a laser thermometer is on
order just to check it out further.
Cheers Steve
#Post#: 101703--------------------------------------------------
Re: Running hot and struggling to re-start.
By: Parn Date: September 1, 2016, 4:52 pm
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Hi Stu
I had a similar problem with my Series some time ago.
The gauge would read high and move into the red when the motor
was under load for a length of time.
I used a borrowed laser thermometer and it showed 82 degrees at
the thermostat housing.
I replaced the sender, that made no difference.
I then took the gauge apart, well that was a waste of time as
there is nothing in there to adjust.
I stuffed up when re-assembling the gauge and managed to create
a dead short.
This small whoops fried the resistor thingy can killed the fuel
gauge as well.
So I then replaced the resistor thingy and the temperature gauge
and all is now working correctly.
I would suggest you replace the resistor thingy first and then
move though the sender and gauge.
I would suggest the hot start problem is the weber go back to a
Zenith
Cheers
Alan
#Post#: 101704--------------------------------------------------
Re: Running hot and struggling to re-start.
By: Stu622 Date: September 2, 2016, 12:45 am
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Thankyou Steve and Alan for your suggestions. I pointed a laser
thermometer at the top if the rad when the gauge was in the red,
and it read around 80 degrees. I guess this means that all is
well from a cooling perspective and its just the gauge that's
misreading. The in-line metal fuel filter was at 40 degrees, as
was the carb body. Is this too hot? Does fuel vaporise at such a
low temperature (I'm doubtful but not sure)?
Thanks again.
Stu.
#Post#: 101706--------------------------------------------------
Re: Running hot and struggling to re-start.
By: NoelC Date: September 2, 2016, 4:31 am
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Stu, what temperature sender did you fit? Genuine or pattern? I
was chasing hot running all over the place with my 88 (2.5
petrol, stage 2 head) until someone on here many moons ago
mentioned the Britpart and other pattern senders were shite. I
splashed out the best part of a tenner on a genuine one in a
Land Rover box and the gauge has registered spot on ever since.
It's been covered to death on here but as Parn says, the Weber
34ICH will be doing you no favours. Go back to a Zenith 36IV.
#Post#: 101707--------------------------------------------------
Re: Running hot and struggling to re-start.
By: Stu622 Date: September 2, 2016, 7:07 am
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Thanks for the tip-off, Noel. My replacement sender was a cheapo
one. I'll get hold of a genuine one and swap them over.
If the engine is running at the correct temperature and I don't
"key off", then the hot start issue will go away too - I was
only switching off because it looked like I was in imminent
danger of boiling the engine. This appears to be false!
Thanks to all for your comments.
I'll have a look out for second hand zeniths.
All the best,
Stu.
#Post#: 101708--------------------------------------------------
Re: Running hot and struggling to re-start.
By: niteram Date: September 2, 2016, 9:46 am
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the gauge reading in the red is most probably down to the "new"
sender unit.
you might find that a genuine one will be the same, I was told
that the original part number changes to the defender part
number.
I had the same problems. the old sender read fine but the
connecter broke off! the new sender read too high so I sent it
back and got a different make, which was the same! as I knew it
wasn't overheating I just lived with it
if the voltage stabilser was faulty then both the fuel and temp
gauges would give incorrect readings.
also it could be that there is more air passing through the rad
when you drive to work therefore keeping it cooler? :-?
#Post#: 101709--------------------------------------------------
Re: Running hot and struggling to re-start.
By: Stu622 Date: September 2, 2016, 2:06 pm
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Hello Niteram. Point taken about airflow during my road journey.
I will replace the temp sender with a genuine one.
I'm curious about what's happening when it struggles to start. I
have to crank it for a long time (30 sec) and then it starts
like its overfuelled. Perhaps the initial difficulty is caused
by fuel vaporising in the lines, but 40 degrees doesn't seem hot
enough to cause that. Its a bit of a puzzle.
Thank you for your help.
All the best,
Stu.
#Post#: 101711--------------------------------------------------
Re: Running hot and struggling to re-start.
By: Fluffle-Valve Date: September 3, 2016, 1:36 am
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I was running a petrol 1972 Series 3 fitted with a Weber and I
had the same problems, but not all the time. Sometimes, the
bloody thing just didn't want to know when it was hot. I learnt
when it was hot, to just turn the key to start it and left the
accelerator alone till it actually started. Also, if I went and
left it for say half an hour or more, it would start
regardless.The weber is prone to icing up, which is a pain in
the arse when in the middle of traffic.
My temp guage one day decided not to go above the cold mark. I
changed the sender for a bermach one and it now reads in the
middle/normal on the gauge.
Search eBay with this number 321826915613 ... It worked for me.
#Post#: 101712--------------------------------------------------
Re: Running hot and struggling to re-start.
By: Stu622 Date: September 3, 2016, 1:46 am
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Thanks F-V. I ordered a genuine Land Rover temp sender last
night - will fit it in the week when it arrives.
Mine also starts better with no throttle input when it's hot -
just turn the key and let it crank. Once it catches, it takes a
few seconds to get up to full speed but then is okay. I made
the problem worse during the week because I kept turning the
engine off to let things cool down - I now know that it wasn't
that hot anyway.
All the best,
Stu.
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