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#Post#: 100126--------------------------------------------------
Brake servos and vacuum loss.
By: AlmightyBodgeKing Date: December 11, 2015, 1:01 pm
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Hello again all you knowledgable folk.
Today I was mainly trying to get her fueling right. (SIIA
Petrol).
Anyhow, after much tinkering with the carb and deciding it
seemed to be all ok I put it back on after a good clean and she
was no better. In an attempt to contort myself into a closer
look, I squashed the vacuum
Pipe to the remote servo and she ran beautifully for a few
seconds. I then blanked off this pipe and was able to tune her
up to a lovely smooth engine. Upon reconnecting the servo, she
ran like a bag of crap. I guess the servo is leaking internally
as I hear a hiss from it.y theory is someone in the past had
turned the idle mix right up to try and compensate for this.
Anyway, my question is do I need the servo?
My Haynes book only shows servo for the SIII dual line setup,
nothing on the IIA, so I guess it wasn't a factory fit. Also I
assume the servo is not doing anything anyway as there is no
vacuum and I have other cars that are fine without servo. I had
intended to replace all the shoes and wheel cylinders this
weekend and replace the watery sludge with fresh brake fluid,
I'm tempted to remove the suspect servo as I do. Is there any
legal requirement to have it?
Thanks.
#Post#: 100127--------------------------------------------------
Re: Brake servos and vacuum loss.
By: D4B Date: December 11, 2015, 1:28 pm
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I would imagine it would be perfectly safe and legal to put it
back how it was
when it left the factory, ie; no servo............... ?
#Post#: 100128--------------------------------------------------
Re: Brake servos and vacuum loss.
By: AlmightyBodgeKing Date: December 11, 2015, 1:34 pm
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Thanks.
I've been looking some more. And it is definately not a factory
fit, whoever fitted it has just used couplers to extend the
original lines to the servo. Which at least makes it an easy job
to remove.
#Post#: 100129--------------------------------------------------
Re: Brake servos and vacuum loss.
By: hippydave Date: December 11, 2015, 1:40 pm
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you will have to get used to putting a lot more pressure on the
brake peddle that you do with the servo and a wee quick double
pump to get the brakes to bite a bit harder
#Post#: 100131--------------------------------------------------
Re: Brake servos and vacuum loss.
By: AlmightyBodgeKing Date: December 11, 2015, 1:56 pm
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No problem with that. I got other cars without servo. Also I
doubt the servo was doing anything anyway as it had no vacuum.
#Post#: 100141--------------------------------------------------
Re: Brake servos and vacuum loss.
By: NoelC Date: December 12, 2015, 10:36 am
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[quote author=AlmightyBodgeKing
link=topic=9550.msg100128#msg100128 date=1449862466]
I've been looking some more. And it is definately not a factory
fit, whoever fitted it has just used couplers to extend the
original lines to the servo. Which at least makes it an easy job
to remove. [/quote]
Don't be too sure on that. Is it a Girling Powerstop remote
servo mounted on the top of the N/S footwell? My '66
ex-Wiltshire Fire Bridgade 109 had that setup when I bought it,
evidently the emergency services wanted a bit less pedal effort
and specified it. As to whether it was fitted at the factory,
supplying dealer or the fire brigade's own workshops I've no
idea. The seal went on mine causing brake fluid to be burnt on
overrun so I did away with it. The brakes are spot on since
using the G clamp method to bleed them a few years back, you'll
be fine without the servo. What year is your 109? If a '66 or
earlier have a look at the ammeter. Mine reads +/- 50 amps
showing it had the optional alternator setup from new, another
fire brigade option. Dynamo ammeters only read +/- 30 amps.
#Post#: 100143--------------------------------------------------
Re: Brake servos and vacuum loss.
By: AlmightyBodgeKing Date: December 13, 2015, 1:32 am
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NoelC, the servo is a Clayton Dewandre, made under license by
Bendix. Or at least that's what it says. The 109 is a 1969 with
alternator fitted from new. Also could you explain the G-Clamp
method of bleeding which you mention?
Anyway, I took the servo off on Friday eve and stripped it to
see what was going on. (Sorry no update till now, I was out of
action yesterday due to a flare-up of a longstanding health
issue). Well first off, the main body of the servo was full of
old brake fluid. I think about 2l came out when I tipped it
upside down. I have to wonder who it is that keeps putting brake
fluid in without investigating to see where it's all going.
The main diaphragm has a huge rip in it, the smaller diaphragm
for the release valve appears to have just dissolved and
obviously the cylinder seals have gone. I think it's safe to
assume that it was not doing anything to help braking effort. I
have been doing a little internetting this morning and it seems
the parts for this thing are not listed anywhere, so I guess
it's destined for the scrap pile.
#Post#: 100147--------------------------------------------------
Re: Brake servos and vacuum loss.
By: AlmightyBodgeKing Date: December 13, 2015, 11:00 am
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Quick update, I put the brake lines back together, without
servo. Bled the system through with fresh brake fluid and she
stops better than never. It would seem the knackered servo was
actually hindering rather than helping with braking effort.
#Post#: 100151--------------------------------------------------
Re: Brake servos and vacuum loss.
By: NoelC Date: December 14, 2015, 8:08 am
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[quote author=AlmightyBodgeKing
link=topic=9550.msg100143#msg100143 date=1449991927]
The 109 is a 1969 with alternator fitted from new.[/quote]
Interesting. Do you have a voltmeter at the bottom of the
combined fuel/water temp gauge? If memory serves that was
specified in place of the charge light on suffix-D and later
factory alternator vehicles.
[quote]Also could you explain the G-Clamp method of bleeding
which you mention?[/quote]
The TLS setup is a PITA to bleed on a 109, or at least sometimes
it is. In a nutshell the most foolproof method is to get the
thing up on axle stands, remove all the roadwheels and brake
drums and use G-clamps to push the wheel cylinder pistons fully
back into their bores, making sure the dual piston cylinders on
the rear are not closing off the bleed nipples. Once done I
stamp on the pedal a number of times to break any large air
bubbles up and push the fluid through with an eezibleed. Once
done and with the G-clamps still in place you should feel zero
movement at the pedal, it's the only way to be 100% sure all the
air is out. There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to
which 109s are no grief when bleeding and some are the devil
reincarnated, I do this as a matter of course now. Saves time in
the long run.
#Post#: 100154--------------------------------------------------
Re: Brake servos and vacuum loss.
By: AlmightyBodgeKing Date: December 14, 2015, 1:18 pm
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Yes, it has the voltmeter at the bottom of the combined gauge.
Also has a seperate ammeter, but for some reason I have yet to
investigate, that only works if the horn is disconnected.
As for bleeding, guess I am one of the lucky ones, it was no
problem, bit of pipe with a 1-way valve on the nipple, fresh
fluid in the top and pump the pedal. Job was a good un. My SIII
used to be a little awkward, but that was fine as long as it was
pointing uphill.
I think I was a little out with the adjustment though, I have
one wheel binding slightly.
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