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#Post#: 97618--------------------------------------------------
Master or Slave?
DIR By: kiwi s3
Date: May 22, 2015, 10:52 pm
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Hi everyone,
The clutch on my S3 is getting more troublesome. It works fine
if the pedal is just depressed for a couple of seconds while
engaging or changing gear, but if I need to keep the pedal down
for longer than that (such as creeping out of junctions, or
parking) the clutch starts to engage, even with the pedal fully
down.
This makes it very difficult to get it out of gear and can even
lead to it creeping forward or stalling.
There is no fluid loss, so I'm presuming that the seals on
either the Master or Slave cylinder have gone - but before I
start buying new parts and getting oily- is there are way to
determine which has the problem?
Cheers,
Mark, NZ.
#Post#: 97621--------------------------------------------------
Re: Master or Slave?
DIR By: big-chris
Date: May 23, 2015, 3:30 am
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As it is a sealed system it is very difficult to determine which
cylinder is at fault without external fluid loss!! Usual suspect
is the slave, it lives in a slightly more harsh environment so
has a harder life, easy to change and not an expensive part.. I
would be tempted to remove the one you have and check behind the
dust cover, you may find a trace of leakage there? Has your
clutch fluid discoloured? This is usually the first signs of
seal failure?
The other fault area is the flexible pipe? Is it swelling under
pressure? Have someone press the cluch whilst you watch the
pipe, have a feel for any distortion on the rubber, another
cheap easy fix.....
Hope this helps a little :popcorn:
#Post#: 97623--------------------------------------------------
Re: Master or Slave?
DIR By: NoelC
Date: May 23, 2015, 7:42 am
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Balooning of the cluch flexi hose is a good place to start
looking as big-chris suggests just because it's easy and free.
Assuming the flexi is OK I'd start with the slave too, it's less
of a faff to look at. Due to the relative cheapness of the
components involved I usually change the lot when the hydraulics
start mucking about, although as with everything hydraulic avoid
Britpart excrement like the plague. Genuine Lucas will rush you
£32.80 (+VAT) from Paddocks for both. Flexi is a couple of quid.
#Post#: 97637--------------------------------------------------
Re: Master or Slave?
DIR By: spitfiremk1uk
Date: May 24, 2015, 4:16 am
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If you have pedal creep WITHOUT fluid loss. It can only be the
master cylinder which is leaking. It is allowing fluid to leak
and pass back into the reservior. Nothing more need be said.
#Post#: 97642--------------------------------------------------
Re: Master or Slave?
DIR By: Serious Series
Date: May 24, 2015, 11:52 am
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Only one seal in series 3 clutch master cylinder if seal fails
fluid drips down onto pedal cannot get back to reservoir , seal
at rear prevents more fluid entering master cylinder if free
play not correctly set up . Does pedal have a return spring
fitted which is fully lifting the pedal up to the correct
position? Should be 1/4" of pedal movement before movement of
master cylinder.
#Post#: 97645--------------------------------------------------
Re: Master or Slave?
DIR By: Col
Date: May 24, 2015, 12:05 pm
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I had the same problem and it's just as Spitfire says.
#Post#: 97648--------------------------------------------------
Re: Master or Slave?
DIR By: kiwi s3
Date: May 25, 2015, 2:21 am
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Thanks everyone,
Some excellent advice. I have now checked the flexi hose - it
looks fairly old, but I could not feel any change when the pedal
was held down. A new pedal return spring is in place - the old
one snapped a few months ago and the pedal dropped to about half
way and had to be lifted up with my toe to get it back to the
top position each time after using the clutch.
I have not noticed any clutch fluid leaking anywhere in the
system, from the master cylinder or down the pedal - the fluid
level is still at the lower lip of the reservoir.
I'll order a new Master, Slave and flexi and refresh the whole
system - the price seems reasonable to get a proper working
clutch again. Is the braided hose worth the extra money? It
also seems a straightforward job - any pitfalls I need to look
out for?
Cheers,
Mark, NZ.
#Post#: 97649--------------------------------------------------
Re: Master or Slave?
DIR By: spitfiremk1uk
Date: May 25, 2015, 4:39 am
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An old fashioned rubber hose can last 20 years on a clutch. I
would say why bother with anything more expencive?
#Post#: 97650--------------------------------------------------
Re: Master or Slave?
DIR By: niteram
Date: May 25, 2015, 4:43 am
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I've fitted braided brake hoses which are really good, but the
clutch one doesn't really warrant the extra cost, but it's your
money!
#Post#: 97660--------------------------------------------------
Re: Master or Slave?
DIR By: NoelC
Date: May 25, 2015, 4:23 pm
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When the 88 had it's rebuild in '06 I did order a Goodridge
braided hose for it. It never turned up, and what with a galvy
chassis and associated paraphernalia to play with I never
noticed. Until about 3 months later when Paddocks finally sent
it. I re-used the old hose and it's still on there, the braided
one still sat in a drawer. It's true an old fashioned rubber
hose can last 20 (or 30) years on a clutch BUT, and it's an all
too common but these days, that's a genuine part made of good
quality rubber.
The clutch hose RTC5940 from Paddocks is £2.14 and you can bet
it'll be Shitpart and won't last anything like as long as a good
quality branded OEM quality item. For comparitive purposes a
Corteco rubber hose is around the £11.50 mark. I'd fit a cheapie
without hesitation here (I can't remember my thought process
behind the Goodridge one except it was way cheaper back in '06 -
£6 or £7 I think) as they're easy to get, if I were in NZ I
might lean towards the Goodridge one.
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