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#Post#: 444--------------------------------------------------
Water Pump Rebuild - Thanks Jackual NZ
By: FenTiger Date: January 5, 2012, 7:11 am
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I bought a couple of bearmach kits from LR Series.
The kits start at about 8quid upwards, Although its sometimes
more time saving and economical to replace the whole unit.
The kit (2.25 petrol part no RTC3072) contains;
Spindle and bearing assy.
Carbon water seal assy.
Impellor.
Tools you will need;
A Press, (I use a small chinese machine mart jobbie) a selecton
of press arbours/different diameter bits of pipe are also handy,
You might need a 7/16ths spanner for the locating bolt, although
some pumps dont have them.
Feeler gauges.
Deagreaser/jizzer/dishwasher for cleaning.
Its a good weekend job, takes about an hour to rebuild the pump,
Not including removing it from the engine, which involves
draining the cooling system.
The instructions to rebuild the pump in the Haynes manual is a
bit queer, Basically it tells you to remove it and take off it
to be reconditioned!
I also found the kits had no instructions :lol:. Ive never
overhauled a water pump so i was a bit in the dark, I can say
its worked well so far - No leaks - No squeaks!.
The pump i was rebuilding was a original one, its already had a
kit in the past, probably ten years of so ago, Way before my
ownership;
HTML http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a1/hey124/RIMG0134.jpg
Once you pump is out on the bench, check whats failed, This
pumps seals had failed, water was dripping from the little hole
underneith it,
give the shaft a wiggle (fnarr) to check the bearings, the
bearings in this were OK.
Im Geussing you all know how to remove the pump from the engine
and remove the front pully and fan :wink:.
To start stipping it down I unscrewed the 7/16 locating screw;
HTML http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a1/hey124/RIMG0135.jpg
Then i pressed out all its guts from the hub/pulley side, using
a deep socket and supporting under the pump body
HTML http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a1/hey124/RIMG0136.jpg
I pressed until the hub came off, then carried on pressing until
the bearing and impellor dropped out.
I broke the old impellor whilst pressing the bearing out.
HTML http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a1/hey124/RIMG0138.jpg
All the bits on the right can be thrown out, I kept the bearing
cos im a hoarder. The pulley hub and body are the only parts to
keep;
HTML http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a1/hey124/RIMG0140.jpg
Now we can clean up the pump body, or if you like old patina
just a quick clean, Mine was blasted clean, then painted matt
black;
HTML http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a1/hey124/RIMG0141.jpg
Here are the new parts, there is no locating bolt hole in the
new bearings.
HTML http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a1/hey124/RIMG0142.jpg
To start assembling i pressed the seal down the spindle shaft,
just till it was abutting the groove in the shaft;
HTML http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a1/hey124/RIMG0143.jpg
I then ran some emery cloth aroung the bearing housing of the
pump body, just get rid of any burrs or paint.
I wanted to use some Loctite 641 bearing fit, to lock the
bearing in and stop it working its way out (what with not having
a locating bolt hole :roll: )
So i degreased and applyed a smear of 641 to the bearing, this
also acts as a lube whilst pressing in.
On the seal cusp i put a fine bead of Loctite 515 sealant;
HTML http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a1/hey124/RIMG0144.jpg
On the press; I pressed the bearing in just untill the spring in
the seal was compressd, no further :!: , or the spring will
become bound and crush the carbon seal;
HTML http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a1/hey124/RIMG0145.jpg
Then i found a socket to fit around the top of the seal, i didnt
have one quite deep enough, so a thin bit of pipe the right
diameter inbetween did the job, pressing the seal home;
HTML http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a1/hey124/RIMG0146.jpg
Then i continued to press the bearing in untill flush with the
body of the pump;
HTML http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a1/hey124/RIMG0147.jpg
At this stage check that the spindle turns, there will be some
stiffness, but not too much.
This next bit was an after thought, because there was that hole
where the locating bolt was i wanted to fill it, i found an
allen head grub screw, also clamps down on the bearing;
HTML http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a1/hey124/RIMG0149.jpg
Then i pressed the impellor on the shaft, there should be a gap
of .20" between the pump body and impellor vanes, Once this was
done i pressed the hub down on the spindle;
HTML http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a1/hey124/RIMG0150.jpg
Once again, check it turns, if all is well it will be smooth to
turn and feel quite 'gooey', If not, check the impellor gap once
more.
Thats it!;
HTML http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a1/hey124/RIMG0151.jpg
Now just to fit it to the engine and admire your work, just
imagine, saving a few quid, AND its not a Bluebox pump :D ,
Happy days!.
#Post#: 772--------------------------------------------------
Re: Water Pump Rebuild - Thanks Jackual NZ
By: Fluffle-Valve Date: January 5, 2012, 4:51 pm
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Looks like I must get myself a press...
#Post#: 783--------------------------------------------------
Re: Water Pump Rebuild - Thanks Jackual NZ
By: Jackual Date: January 5, 2012, 5:01 pm
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They are incredably usefull, makes UJ repair a breeze, no
beating things with a hammer. I would be lost without it.
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