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#Post#: 97465--------------------------------------------------
Re: DarrenH 1982 88" series3 station wagon
By: DarrenH Date: May 10, 2015, 5:32 am
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couple bits done yesterday, the first was a new alternator which
i bought a couple months ago ready. the issue with mine has
been there since day 1, the charge light has flickered on and
off at idle but always goes out when revved, also everything
electric used to flicker as if the voltage was rising and
falling rapidly by a couple volts (most noticeable on the
headlights). in last couple days the charge light wasnt going
out until at very high revs so thought i better get it changed
before the battery throws a wobbler.
[IMG]
HTML http://www.darrenh.co.uk/landy88/landy88_alternator01.jpg[/img]
another issue was the engine temp being a bit erratic, sometimes
appearing if it never heats up, other times charging up to the
red in a couple of miles. sounds like electrical gremlin but
the heater output tended to mirror the guage, so changed the
thermostat...
[IMG]
HTML http://www.darrenh.co.uk/landy88/landy88_stat01.jpg[/img]
i thought i nearly lost the front bolt, it felt like it was
twisting the shank rather than undoing, then all of a sudden it
went DINK and came undone ok, phew. when they were all out i
used the best one to make a thread cleaner... basically cut a
slot along the threads then wind it in and out the block to
clean the threads out. it pulled quite a bit of crap, oil,
rust, even black sump sealer stuff. used a nice bit of copper
grease on the new bolts !!
[IMG]
HTML http://www.darrenh.co.uk/landy88/landy88_stat02.jpg[/img]
[IMG]
HTML http://www.darrenh.co.uk/landy88/landy88_stat03.jpg[/img]
lastly the galvanised rear door arrived on friday :) its
galvanised frame, alloy skin and the skin is bonded to the frame
with PU seam sealant. seam sealer gives it the barrier
(although allu and zinc are closer on the galvanic table than
allu and steel anwyay) also gives it way more build quality.
[IMG]
HTML http://www.darrenh.co.uk/landy88/landy88_reardoor01.jpg[/img]
[IMG]
HTML http://www.darrenh.co.uk/landy88/landy88_reardoor02.jpg[/img]
[IMG]
HTML http://www.darrenh.co.uk/landy88/landy88_reardoor03.jpg[/img]
#Post#: 97478--------------------------------------------------
Re: DarrenH 1982 88" series3 station wagon
By: GlenAnderson Date: May 10, 2015, 11:28 pm
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Nice work, as usual.
Where did you get the rear door Darren?
#Post#: 97481--------------------------------------------------
Re: DarrenH 1982 88" series3 station wagon
By: DarrenH Date: May 11, 2015, 6:02 am
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thanks G. the rear door is from splandrover
the only downside is that its not "spare wheel ready", doesn't
have the triangulation or the dovetail bracket (but does have
holes for third hinge)
fairly certain i will use a swing away carrier (painted body
colour, not black) but the dovetail seems like a good idea
regardless of weight on the door. could easily weld it on but
then your are burning the the galv.
they sell a defender door with all the strengthening and
dovetail, but then the check strap runner is wrong for series so
you have the welding issue again. pros and cons, no easy way to
do it
#Post#: 97487--------------------------------------------------
Re: DarrenH 1982 88" series3 station wagon
By: GlenAnderson Date: May 11, 2015, 4:51 pm
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That's a bit of a pisser. I wouldn't put a wheel on the door,
but the dovetail does add strength to the whole assembly and I
wouldn't be happy without one. My back door is kippered, and I
really need to think about getting a replacement.
#Post#: 97534--------------------------------------------------
Re: DarrenH 1982 88" series3 station wagon
By: selectcase Date: May 17, 2015, 8:21 am
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cheers for the link to splandrover looks like its better stuff
than that britpart crap
#Post#: 97559--------------------------------------------------
Re: DarrenH 1982 88" series3 station wagon
By: moggieone Date: May 20, 2015, 2:16 am
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Hi keep the good work up will keep you busy >Htlr<
Andy
#Post#: 97571--------------------------------------------------
Re: DarrenH 1982 88" series3 station wagon
By: CaptainSlow Date: May 20, 2015, 1:46 pm
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Thats great work Darren, I def need to learn how to weld. I'd
have thought those doors would be scrap but you've worked
wonders! Very nice 88 too, in my fav colour for a Series :)
#Post#: 97583--------------------------------------------------
Re: DarrenH 1982 88" series3 station wagon
By: DarrenH Date: May 21, 2015, 7:31 am
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thanks chaps :)
#Post#: 97839--------------------------------------------------
Re: DarrenH 1982 88" series3 station wagon
By: DarrenH Date: June 4, 2015, 1:50 pm
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i did all the oils today so took the opportunity to fit the
200tdi oil filter adapter. its essentially a straight swap, i
used a new series 3 gasket and the old series 3 bolts. it has
a few outlets that are unused which wouldve been the oil cooler
feed and return plus oil temp sender. all of the blanking
plugs are off the shelf items listed in land rover parts manual.
the low pressure warning switch is the same but it points in a
different direction, however the loom reaches.
HTML http://www.darrenh.co.uk/landy88/landy88_filter01.jpg
HTML http://www.darrenh.co.uk/landy88/landy88_filter02.jpg
#Post#: 97849--------------------------------------------------
Re: DarrenH 1982 88" series3 station wagon
By: DarrenH Date: June 5, 2015, 2:13 pm
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today i fitted the H+H ignition solutions electronic distributor
kit. this is a well trodden path by myself as i had the exact
same kit on my 2.3 ninety. it came with a new high power coil,
lucas 45 style billet distributor plus all the wiring and
mountings. inside is a hall sensor driven system to trigger the
coil.
i started by rotating the crank by hand to get TDC and marked it
with a blob of tippex. my crank pulley had 5 marks on it with 6
deg written at either end. i figured the middle mark was TDC
and confirmed this by using a screw driver down no.1 spark plug
hole and rotating the crank further.
[IMG]
HTML http://www.darrenh.co.uk/landy88/landy88_ignition01.jpg[/img]
then i took the cap off just to check the rotor arm was pointing
towards the electrode for no.1 cylinder
[IMG]
HTML http://www.darrenh.co.uk/landy88/landy88_ignition02.jpg[/img]
one 11mm bolt is all that secures the distributor into its
mounting bracket
[IMG]
HTML http://www.darrenh.co.uk/landy88/landy88_ignition03.jpg[/img]
i lubed up the new distributor and slid it into the block,
engaging the offset dog drive by wiggling the rotor arm
[IMG]
HTML http://www.darrenh.co.uk/landy88/landy88_ignition04.jpg[/img]
then i wired up the new distributor cap, since the arm was still
pointing towards no.1 cylinder and the rotor travels
anti-clockwise, its easy to plug the leads in using the firing
order, 1-3-4-2. i also fitted the new coil with its spades and
screwed that to the bulkhead. beforehand i had cleaned up all
the mounting points with wire wheel so it makes a good earth
through the mounting bolts, put loads of vaseline on the bare
metal. there's two wires coming out of the new distributor,
positive and negative which go to + and - on the coil fairly
easy. the standard distributor only had a positive as it
earthed through the block i think.
[IMG]
HTML http://www.darrenh.co.uk/landy88/landy88_ignition05.jpg[/img]
then i got the vintage gunson timing light out (inherited from
dad !) hooked it up inline with cylinder 1 and the engine fired
straight up at the first turn! it was bang on TDC so that was a
good guess to start. then i disconnected the vac feed and
turned the distributor body slightly to get about 6 deg advance.
you can see in the video i bring the engine revs up just to
make sure the centrifugal advance works, the tippex blob
migrates over to the left :)
HTML https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iq1YbPjOtNw
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