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       #Post#: 94652--------------------------------------------------
       Calling rivet counters
   DIR By: ferretjuggler
       Date: November 24, 2014, 11:35 am
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       Yes I know that this is probably the wrong forum,  but those
       whose hinges stand proud will freak out if I ask this on their
       forums :
       I've got the possibility of a very cheap (or maybe even free)
       early series three chassis.
       I suspect that maybe a new half chassis will be required,  but
       maybe not.
       Well assuming that it needs the half chassis,  how much work
       would be needed to convert the front end to late 2A spec (1969
       suffix G actually)
       I'm thinking change the bell housing crossmember, brake pipe
       brackets.
       Anything else that would give it away as a S3?
       #Post#: 94653--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Calling rivet counters
   DIR By: ferretjuggler
       Date: November 24, 2014, 11:41 am
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       BTW it's a SWB before anyone asks
       #Post#: 94660--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Calling rivet counters
   DIR By: Albert Ross
       Date: November 24, 2014, 3:12 pm
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       Dumb iron reinforcement, brake hose bracket size/angle, possibly
       front crossmember profile and sizes of holes/reinforcement for
       relay and starting handle.  (Number 2, as the bumper is actually
       number 1) Size of front spring rear bush in the chassis rail, As
       you say, number 3 crossmember reinforcement, tank/body
       outriggers where the body fits will have different tabs in.
       Seatbelt mounts may be fitted to the S3 chassis. Parking brake
       relay mounting "may" be a different profile. Earth mounting
       point on the nearside may be missing. Battery tray and engine
       mount profile/reinforcement "may" be different. Do you need an
       oil cooler mount?  So in reality, there are quite a few
       differences to allow a busybody rivet counter to catch you out
       and report you to Doovla. Etc. Not that any of us would give a
       fuck, because by the time I get to see these motors, I forget
       who owns what, and am normally pissed at shows.
       #Post#: 94678--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Calling rivet counters
   DIR By: espacekiller
       Date: November 25, 2014, 7:17 am
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       Did all the S3 chassis rails have a weld right down the middle
       also?
       #Post#: 94682--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Calling rivet counters
   DIR By: Serious Series
       Date: November 25, 2014, 9:49 am
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       Not on SWB
       #Post#: 94690--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Calling rivet counters
   DIR By: Albert Ross
       Date: November 25, 2014, 3:43 pm
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       109" from 1973 onwards.
       #Post#: 94695--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Calling rivet counters
   DIR By: Peter de Dawg
       Date: November 25, 2014, 6:05 pm
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       I'd just bung the 2a stuff on it and be done, no one's going to
       look or even care unless you're going to take it to concours
       shows  :gay:
       #Post#: 94700--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Calling rivet counters
   DIR By: ferretjuggler
       Date: November 25, 2014, 9:13 pm
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       No thanks
       I'll rework it to something very close to late 2A spec.
       I've had too many 2As that sort of gradually morphed themselves
       gradually into series threes.
       My present 1970 SWB diesel has S3 door tops,  window locks,
       door hingss, washer bottle and pump.
       The '69 project is going to be more accurate to the correct
       spec.
       Nowt wrong with hybrids and bitsas, if that's what you want.
       This time I want something close to how it rolled off the
       production line 45 years ago
       #Post#: 94732--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Calling rivet counters
   DIR By: Peter de Dawg
       Date: November 26, 2014, 5:23 pm
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       I wasn't suggesting a bitsa build at all , just putting all
       proper 2a stuff on the chassis you have, but I'm sure it's
       viable if you really really want to recreate the fine details of
       a 2a chassis... Happy welding  :thumbs:
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