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#Post#: 93217--------------------------------------------------
how to bung up my holes
DIR By: seriesewan
Date: September 29, 2014, 7:46 am
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here is my chassis
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Its a little bit rotten...
Now I know ultimately its going to need replacing, but at this
moment in time it is not financially possible. Its had a bit of
over plating in the past ( some of which was horrendous bodgery
& i have removed to redo ).
Seen as I have gone to the trouble of taking the tub off I want
to get all repairs to the inaccessible bits done. I have
wirebrushed back to bare steel & then given it good beating
with a hammer. Any sections that either deformed under the
hammer or did not ring have been chopped away.
Should i just weld in sections to fill the holes or would I be
better to simply overplate the top of each chassis rail & then
its done & secure from perforating again for the next few years.
I may be answering my own question here as i know water can get
between the plates & accelerate the rusting. However the current
chassis is not deformed / badly rusted & I don't want to take
away any existing strength
Also, the ends of my rear x member are well & truly shot. I was
going to simply replace the entire crossmember, but now i have
got it all to bits it is clear that it has had a new 1/4 chassis
at one point. I am not sure that the oversized sections
designed to slip over chassis rails will slip over the existing
oversized 1/4 chassis sections. Would it be foolish to attempt
this? or should i chop out the old quarter chassis repair
section & replace with an new one?
#Post#: 93240--------------------------------------------------
Re: how to bung up my holes
DIR By: hippydave
Date: September 29, 2014, 4:03 pm
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better to cut out and replace rather than patch on top as you
know that it is then good metal, as for the 1/4 chassis not
quite sure what i would do, but think i would chop it out and
weld some good 1/4" steel on the inside of the chassis and then
weld some 3mm ontop of that for the 1/4 chassis to fit over. But
i dont know how much strength that would have??
#Post#: 93242--------------------------------------------------
Re: how to bung up my holes
DIR By: ferretjuggler
Date: September 29, 2014, 4:15 pm
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I suppose that £294 for a new half chassis (Paddocks) is out of
the question?
It would kill several birds with one stone.
Just an ordinary rear X member is gonna cost about £80 with the
VAT
#Post#: 93243--------------------------------------------------
Re: how to bung up my holes
DIR By: guest13
Date: September 29, 2014, 4:50 pm
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That's no where new rendering replacement :eek: by the looks of
it,
Properly repaired that should give you 10+ years service without
touching it again
I would absolutely not over plate - you will not stop it
corroding behind, and in the lap joints - eventually it will rot
under the plate and it break away.
I would cut out new plates to fit the gaps, with a small
clearance for the weld root, and but weld them in - then wax
inside and paint it all outside
BUT and there is a catch, an over plate is a much easier weld as
your doing a fillet weld, a butt is much harder to do well ...
So how good is your welding, it needs to be good to do this
right -have a go on some test pieces first where you can see
both sides to check penetration
If you get good welds, ideally don't grind them, leave them. If
not sure grind back and check for perforation then repair the
weld
Ref the crossmember it looks ok in that shot, can you do a phot
of he damage - if jaunt the ends I'd buy a cross member and just
use it to take the ends from - I've done this on one end of my
88 as thats all that was needed
If that wont do then, I'd go for a cross member without
extensions as the replacement 1/4 chassis looks ok, you would
avoid any issue of the plates not fitting over each other then -
again a little more work to fit but. A better repair
#Post#: 93248--------------------------------------------------
Re: how to bung up my holes
DIR By: espacekiller
Date: September 29, 2014, 6:06 pm
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As others have said I would just let in some new sections, it
might be worth getting a Shultz gun and spraying something
inside the chassis I used waxyoil but you could use old engine
oil, or see the homebrew waxyoil post in the technical archive
section.
#Post#: 93250--------------------------------------------------
Re: how to bung up my holes
DIR By: seriesewan
Date: September 30, 2014, 2:38 am
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Thanks for the replies guys. That's swung me, I think ill do it
properly & cut my plates to size & let in new bits... I may go
as far as taking the top off each rail & replacing each top
piece... I am reasonably confident in my welding skills ( did
an evening class a few years ago to in anticipation of such
troubles )
as for a whole new half chassis... I would go down that route if
i didn't need to fork out for a whole raft of other bits &
pieces to get it through its test,
here are the ends
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& the middle
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the middle bit is solid as a rock, its just the tips that have
gone, the photos don't quite show how papery they are, the
wheel side insert parts can be holed with a key & each entire
end is quite bendy & crumbly. I did consider attempting to make
new tips...it doesnt look too hard.. my only problem is i don't
have access to a steel folder so that idea is dead in the water.
I like the idea of chopping up a new crossmember to retrieve the
ends... it sounds wrong but it would be a great solution to my
problem. I didnt know none slip over crossmembers existed...
that would solve my problem ( and indeed another little problem
in that i haven't mentioned here ) or i could chop off the
slipover parts i guess...
#Post#: 93252--------------------------------------------------
Re: how to bung up my holes
DIR By: espacekiller
Date: September 30, 2014, 5:22 am
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I did manage to bend some 2.5mm steel using 2 pieces of stout
angle iron clamped in a vice along the fold line, the 2 ends of
the angle where then bolted together to sandwich the work piece.
Start to bend it over by hand then persuade it to bend tighter
with a hammer gently a bit at a time whilst maintain a bending
pressure , takes a little getting used to as you have to allow
for the radius of the bend so worth practicing a bit first, but
for the odd section you can make it work.
If you made a section for the cross member longer than it needs
to be you could then trim it down to fit pretty well.
#Post#: 93276--------------------------------------------------
Re: how to bung up my holes
DIR By: Richard
Date: October 1, 2014, 8:46 am
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I still have the complete chassis I mentioned in the for sale
section may help you a bit, kind regards
#Post#: 93286--------------------------------------------------
Re: how to bung up my holes
DIR By: ferretjuggler
Date: October 1, 2014, 12:15 pm
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TBH I'd be wary of cutting the top face off altogether.
I've no doubt that you have the skills to make an excellent job
of the wedding, but running that much weld onto the top edge
only just might cause it to go banana shaped or just pucker up.
To be fair I've done horrendously extensive welding jobs on
series chassis over the years, usually the opposite (rotten
bottom face) and I've never had a real problem yet.
Maybe it's because the chassis is quite large section compared
to the thickness of the steel.
Don't get tempted to go oversize on the steel thickness, have
confidence in your welding and use the same thickness that rover
did.
I'm with Richard on the steel bending.
A couple of really heavy gauge angle irons, drilled at the ends
and some big nuts and bolts.
If you can produce four half decent "L" shaped sections in 2mm
plate, cut them into tapered lengths and butt weld them
together
to get the tapered "U" section that you want.
Probably a days metal bashing just to save £80, I suppose that's
not economical to a lot of people but still.
#Post#: 93310--------------------------------------------------
Re: how to bung up my holes
DIR By: seriesewan
Date: October 2, 2014, 3:14 am
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true... if i was to take the entire top off thats a lot of metal
to superheat/ deform. I will just let in new steel to the
holes i have cut already.
I have a plan forming for the outriggers.. I have taken the
angle grinder to the worst side ( retaining the other side for
dimensions at the moment, this side is shot & no good to measure
) The rear face of the cross member is actually not that
bad, the bottom edge will need chopping out but the vital top
edge with the tabs & fittings is still ok
so my plan is to cut away the rotten front face & bottom & as
much of the top as is needed & replace the cut out parts as
necessary. I will try the angle iron trick for folding & if that
fails I can always fall back to putting a fillet joint in where
i need to do a right angle.
cheers for the advice guys, its helped a lot as although i am
happy with the concept of how to weld, applying said skill to a
chassis / existing structure is a bit of a learning curve for me
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