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#Post#: 92533--------------------------------------------------
changing rear springs
DIR By: prof-pat-pending
Date: September 4, 2014, 1:12 pm
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i am going to change the back springs on my 109 s/w
i have a good second hand set to put on
can some one give me a step by step guide / tools / parts needed
/ advice
feeling a bit delicate at the mo - all this medication - but
trying to use forced time off to good advantage
cheers prof .....
#Post#: 92537--------------------------------------------------
Re: changing rear springs
DIR By: ferretjuggler
Date: September 4, 2014, 2:48 pm
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How long have the old springs been on the vehicle?
Donkeys years?
If it were me tackling this I'd get the weight off the axle and
find out if all the spring bolts can be turned in their bushes
(absolute bastards for seizures due to rust)
Also they can seize in the tapped spring shackles.
Will the bushes in the chassis need replacing at the same time?
If you've got good bushes and free bolts, it might still be
worth getting a set of new U bolts before you start.
If you have bolts seized in bushes etc, it might be worth
finding a friendly mechanic with oxy-acetylene welding/cutting
gear.
I can manage with an angle grinder arc welder and drill TBH ,
but I am a real butcher.
Even I have to resort to a propane torch to get the chassis
bushes out.
When you've carried out a preliminary inspection and discovered
the state of play, get all the parts you're going to need
ordered and ready for action.
#Post#: 92578--------------------------------------------------
Re: changing rear springs
DIR By: NoelC
Date: September 5, 2014, 6:53 pm
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The only tricky thing to get round is if the spring bolt has
rusted to the inner tube of the spring bush and when trying to
undo it the rubber parts company with the outer tube of the
spring bush. You'll never get the bugger out then as you're
hammering against rubber. I'm sure there are other ways but I
use a 9" grinder to cut between the spring and the spring hanger
but you have to be bloody careful you don't carve up the
chassis.
Other than that it should be simple enough. I support the
chassis with proper chassis stands and cut the U bolts to save
time. They're usually rusty and fucked anyway. Tools-wise you
want a decent length struggle bar and preferably deep, single
hex sockets the right size for the spring bolt and nut. These
are A/F and the U bolt nuts BSF/Whitworth. It can be a pain
getting the axle to locate on the pegs on the springs so various
bars and a trolley jack to lift the spring help. I do the front
bolt first, lift the spring to locate the peg then do the rear
bolt, and U bolts last. You need to make sure the chassis stands
are high enough to make sure the axle sits down on the springs
if that makes sense.
As for chassis bushes they are a major pain in the arse, I've
done them myself but wouldn't again. If they look shagged I'd
refit the new springs etc and then tap up your friendliest local
Land Rover place with a bushwacker gizmo and get them to do it.
#Post#: 92583--------------------------------------------------
Re: changing rear springs
DIR By: ferretjuggler
Date: September 6, 2014, 5:07 am
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I don't mind doing the bushes so much if the bolt has come out.
Just run a propane flame through the bolt tube.
As the metal warms up lots of weird and wonderful things will
happen.
You'll get loads of dense acrid burning rubber smoke, it's a
good idea to have a fan blowing some fresh air at you,
otherwise it could do you some damage.
Then you'll get bits of hot burning rubber ejecting itself.
I'm a welder, so I'm used to it, but burning rubber sticks and
burns much worse than weld spatter.
Finally you may get a series of small explosions which may even
shoot the red hot inner steel tube out of the bush at you.
This is the reason why the shop manual tells you NEVER to use
heat on them.
TBH you'll survive without injury if you have a little common
sense.
If you have the remains of a bolt rusted into the tube, you
might be able to use the propane torch to burn away the rubber.
I found that it didn't get hot enough because the flame can't
flow through the bush.
Maybe Oxy-Fuel heat would have done the trick.
I resorted to building up a big blob of weld on the bolt/tube.
Get it hot enough and it will push out.
Once you got the inner tube out and burnt out the rest of the
rubber, split the outer with a hacksaw, and punch it out.
Now all you have to do is draw in the new bush with a piece of
threaded rod.
Simples Eh?
#Post#: 92592--------------------------------------------------
Re: changing rear springs
DIR By: NoelC
Date: September 6, 2014, 3:16 pm
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^^^ the stuff of nightmares! :smilewide:
#Post#: 92596--------------------------------------------------
Re: changing rear springs
DIR By: ferretjuggler
Date: September 6, 2014, 7:38 pm
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Gotta admit that I've never seen or been near a Bushwacka.
I presume that it works by passing some sort of high tensile
bolt through the centre of the bush?
So what if you've got a rusted in bolt stuck in there?
Fucked?
Even with the bolt out is the thing 100% successful?
Or are there times when more primitive butchery is called for?
OK so maybe my method is a little bit primitive.
I'd prefer to think of it as character building rather than a
nightmare :smilewide:
#Post#: 92600--------------------------------------------------
Re: changing rear springs
DIR By: Serious Series
Date: September 7, 2014, 8:43 am
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Easier to run a small drill repeatedly through the rubber till
the inner sleve can be removed .
Bushwacker is an expensive version of this
HTML http://uk.ask.com/youtube?q=bushwacker+bush+removal+video&v=0a2mxp-FxYs&qsrc=472
Have a jack spindle in my garage ready to assemble one up.
Last time I removed chassis bushes drilled rubber out as above
then hacksawed outer sleeve toallow them to split.
Now use poly bushes.
#Post#: 92604--------------------------------------------------
Re: changing rear springs
DIR By: lister
Date: September 7, 2014, 12:37 pm
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I used a an old woodworking sash cramp to press my rear chassis
bushes in,but used those newfangled polybushes when I did the
front ones.
#Post#: 92607--------------------------------------------------
Re: changing rear springs
DIR By: NoelC
Date: September 7, 2014, 3:29 pm
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This is the Sykes-Pickavant offering, you need to be rich. :o
HTML http://www.automotive-toolzone.co.uk/sykes-pickavant-lr-bush-kit-c-clamp-option-18775700.html
HTML http://www.automotive-toolzone.co.uk/sykes-pickavant-lr-bush-kit-c-clamp-option-18775700.html<br
/>The Bushwacka seems somewhat cheaper but having not used
either
I've no idea how effective they are.
HTML http://www.polybush.co.uk/shop/view/425_Landrover_Leaf_Sprung_Vehicles/477_Bushwaka_Kit_1_Leaf_Sprung_Landrovers
HTML http://www.polybush.co.uk/shop/view/425_Landrover_Leaf_Sprung_Vehicles/477_Bushwaka_Kit_1_Leaf_Sprung_Landrovers
#Post#: 92609--------------------------------------------------
Re: changing rear springs
DIR By: espacekiller
Date: September 7, 2014, 4:10 pm
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To remove the old Chassis bushes a 20mm hole saw will cut out
the rubber leaving just the outer shell, turn the hacksaw blade
upside down and cut through the outer shell then drift it out
with a socket.
You will likely need new bolts also, I also replaced a shackle
as it had been wobbling and the thread was mullered.
To fit new bushes use threaded rod through big washers, but
clean the hole up first with a file.
Also If you bolts are stuck you can cut them carefully with a
1mm cutting disc in a 4 1/2" grinder. Good luck.
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