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Old Leafsprung Land Rovers
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#Post#: 90375--------------------------------------------------
Rebuilding Springs
DIR By: ferretjuggler
Date: July 6, 2014, 2:55 pm
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Much as I would love to fit a new set of Parabolic Springs this
year, as fast as I manage to save some dosh, it's getting
blown on other bits of Land Rover. :banghead
My rear springs look like the 1970 vintage originals and are
well shagged out.
One has terminal sag.
I do have a better looking set of rears which are genuine Rover,
but one has a cracked leaf.
Soooo...............I'm thinking that if I could striip the
springs down maybe I could use the matching leaf from my old
(better) spring to produce something serviceable that will pass
a MOT.
I realise that mixing and matching bits of spring could have
serious side effects if done badly.
I've done a couple of quick searches on here, but don't seem to
have turned anything up yet.
So if any kind forum member could possibly point me in the
direction of any threads or information on how to rebuild my
springs, I'd be most grateful.
I'm trying to figure out how those steel staple thingies are
fitted and how I can remove and refit them later.
#Post#: 90377--------------------------------------------------
Re: Rebuilding Springs
DIR By: Hairyvike
Date: July 6, 2014, 3:44 pm
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...you can pry the clamps off with help from a cold chisel to
bend 'em up....they can be bent back afterwards in a
vice....they'll take that punishment easily as they're bloody
sturdy :thumbs:
#Post#: 90378--------------------------------------------------
Re: Rebuilding Springs
DIR By: ferretjuggler
Date: July 6, 2014, 4:04 pm
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Cheers
You know I never thought of that!
I was wondering if I could cut out the rivets and substitute
countersunk screws and nuts.
Might be a pig to assemble if not impossible :banghead
What I have seen before, is where some bodger has cut them with
a cutting disc, rebuilt the spring and then welded them back
together. >vom<
#Post#: 90388--------------------------------------------------
Re: Rebuilding Springs
DIR By: muckypup
Date: July 6, 2014, 5:24 pm
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Didn't John (Eastwood) do a piece on refurbing leaf packs on
this forum? Maybe it was in a mag..? Quite informative as I
recall.
#Post#: 90389--------------------------------------------------
Re: Rebuilding Springs
DIR By: The Bouncin Brewer
Date: July 6, 2014, 5:39 pm
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I did a brief 'how to' on the Landy Owners forum.
As it's something I seem to be making a habit of I thought I'd
post a step by step guide on how I refurbish leaf springs.
1st the easy bit. Take the springs off the vehicle ;D
So you end up with this
HTML http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g127/thebouncinbrewer/JUK%20Rebuild/IMG_2620.jpg
HD rears for a 109 so they are different to your normal leaf
springs but the principle is the same.
You will need some tools for the job. Spanners, at least 2
G-clamps, molegrips, hammer and a drift, cold chisel, prybar and
a blowtorch.
HTML http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g127/thebouncinbrewer/JUK%20Rebuild/IMG_2622.jpg
Start off by fixing a couple of the G-clamps either side of the
centre pin.
HTML http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g127/thebouncinbrewer/JUK%20Rebuild/IMG_2621.jpg
Grip the head of the centre pin with the molegrips and undo the
nut.
HTML http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g127/thebouncinbrewer/JUK%20Rebuild/IMG_2623.jpg
HTML http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g127/thebouncinbrewer/JUK%20Rebuild/IMG_2624.jpg
Once the nut is undone, gently drift the bolt out. They can be
reused but are a pence item from *addocks. Alternatively you can
use an M 8 Cap head bolt.
HTML http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g127/thebouncinbrewer/JUK%20Rebuild/IMG_2625.jpg
HTML http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g127/thebouncinbrewer/JUK%20Rebuild/IMG_2626.jpg
This will liberate some of the leaves. Gently undo the G-clamps
to release them.
*At this point you can do a 'quick' job. Get a wire brush/wire
wheel and clean the edges of the leaves. A couple of good taps
with a hammer will also clear loose rust from between the
leaves. Spray some lubricant between the leaves and replace the
bolt and tighten up. I have found motorbike chain lube is
excellent as it gets nicely into the spring.*
If you've decided to go the whole hog the next thing you need to
do is release the clamps that hold the spring together.
HTML http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g127/thebouncinbrewer/JUK%20Rebuild/IMG_2628.jpg
This can be tricky. Use your blowtorch to heat up the clamps
until they're nice and toasty the using the cold chisel force
them apart. You may need to employ the prybar at this point. It
is possible to do these cold but you have to be very careful not
to snap them off.
HTML http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g127/thebouncinbrewer/JUK%20Rebuild/IMG_2629.jpg
Then disassemble the spring in to it's individual leafs.
HTML http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g127/thebouncinbrewer/JUK%20Rebuild/IMG_2630.jpg
And employ a wire brush/wire wheel to clean them up.
HTML http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g127/thebouncinbrewer/JUK%20Rebuild/IMG_2632.jpg
And in true Hayes fashion, rebuilding them is the reverse of the
above....
You can grease the springs prior to reassembly (I do) but there
are arguments for not doing it.
You can use a vice on reassembly to squash the clamps back
together.
Use the G-clamps to compress the leaves to make it easier to fit
the centre bolt again.
HTML http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g127/thebouncinbrewer/JUK%20Rebuild/IMG_2634.jpg
And there you have it. Your springs will be as good as new ;)
#Post#: 90391--------------------------------------------------
Re: Rebuilding Springs
DIR By: ferretjuggler
Date: July 6, 2014, 6:07 pm
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Thanks for that.
Looking at those clamps I'm wondering if they're riveted on as
flat strips at the factory, then wrapped around the finished
spring pack with some sort of hydraulic swaging machine.
OK maybe swaging ain't the right word, but you know what I
mean.
I got everything on your list except a vice (broke the last one)
I do have a high lift jack which might be persuaded to do the
job.
Or a 10 ton bottle jack if it still works.
Now I need to find some propane and I'll be away :thumbs:
Cheers!
#Post#: 90530--------------------------------------------------
Re: Rebuilding Springs
DIR By: niteram
Date: July 9, 2014, 3:00 pm
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thanks for the pictures and instructions, I've been meaning to
do this for a while, and this has just moved "spring refurb"
towards the top of my to-do list
#Post#: 90536--------------------------------------------------
Re: Rebuilding Springs
DIR By: Mendit
Date: July 9, 2014, 3:15 pm
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Thanks for that info may give me the courage to do the job great
#Post#: 90549--------------------------------------------------
Re: Rebuilding Springs
DIR By: ferretjuggler
Date: July 9, 2014, 4:01 pm
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Gotta find me somewhere local that will deliver a bottle of
propane without charging me the earth for it.
Another job for the summer shut down.
#Post#: 90564--------------------------------------------------
Re: Rebuilding Springs
DIR By: fuckwit
Date: July 10, 2014, 1:39 am
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As i said in my other post, there's the bodger's way. Most times
the problem is lack of use. WD40 them and hit speed-bumps fast
enough to require a visit to the chiropractor, bricks in the
rear wil help, get them moving, once moving as the man says
motor-cycle chain grease for a fiver and do 500 miles. By then
they'll be lots softer, this won't fix sagging /broken springs
of course but this works most times and is p**s-simple.
Yes there is an argument for dry springs, grease holds in the
dirt and the stiction acts liek a shock-absorber but then those
with parabollox use an air-gap instead so you could argue thsi
effect is neglible. Decent shox is better.
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