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       #Post#: 87225--------------------------------------------------
       Withdraw the half shafts it said...
   DIR By: seriesewan
       Date: April 14, 2014, 1:30 pm
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       Ok, well I have learnt my lesson , a stuich in time etc.   The
       clunking noise i developed & was gong to sort out this weekend
       turned into a BANG noise last friday & loss of drive to the rear
       wheels. My initial thoughts were broken halfshaft or unhappy
       rear diff.
       So I try to pull out a half shaft to investigate. I Undid the 6
       bolts on the drive flange & attempted to withdraw it.. It moved
       about 1 cm out then got stuck fast.
       I tried with the other side, Same story  about 1 cm out then
       nothing more.
       Go to check the green bible  It says nothing about rear half
       shaft removal apart from what i have done.
       Out comes the crowbar & i managed to lever the drive flange on
       the short side a bit further out then it gets stuck fast again.
       I shoved it back in with a few taps of a hammer & repeated this
       operation hoping to free it up some more by wiggling it forwards
       & backwards,  but nothing.   Finally the circlip that holds the
       flange onto the shaft has given way & the flange flew off with
       great speed but the shaft is still stuck in there...  I cant
       pull the diff out untill i get the shafts out  :2mo5pow:
       does anyone have any ideas how i can unjam my shafts to get this
       thing apart?  its a swb petrol S3 with the later type 24 spline
       ends & "rationalised" axles   *help*
       thanks in advance
       #Post#: 87232--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Withdraw the half shafts it said...
   DIR By: Albert Ross
       Date: April 14, 2014, 2:03 pm
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       Is there a screw thread in the end of the shaft? If so, I
       suggest a heavy duty slide hammer. Failing that, grind off the
       rear pan of the diff, dismantle it, and twat the shafts out that
       way, reweld a new diff pan onto the casing, and clean up before
       replacing the whole shebang internally.
       #Post#: 87236--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Withdraw the half shafts it said...
   DIR By: Peter de Dawg
       Date: April 14, 2014, 4:04 pm
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       ..Or just bung another axle on it and bin the fucked one!.....
       #Post#: 87240--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Withdraw the half shafts it said...
   DIR By: samc88
       Date: April 14, 2014, 4:46 pm
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       If you're binning the halfshafts, can you not weld a bar to them
       perpendicular to give a bit more leverage to pull them out. Long
       bar either side and you can get 2 people to try and pull it out?
       Never done it, just a suggestion if it will work
       #Post#: 87244--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Withdraw the half shafts it said...
   DIR By: seriesewan
       Date: April 15, 2014, 3:43 am
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       well the diff pan is leaking a bit so it could do with
       replacing.. I think that might be a sensible option to chop off
       & dismantle form inside.  My welding skills are..middling at
       best, hopefully its not too nasty trying to weld the thinish pan
       to the hefty case.
       as a side note How can i identify a SWB axle?
       #Post#: 87246--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Withdraw the half shafts it said...
   DIR By: Albert Ross
       Date: April 15, 2014, 6:04 am
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       Spring seat spacing. 88 is the same front and rear.  109 rears
       are further apart.
       #Post#: 87249--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Withdraw the half shafts it said...
   DIR By: SteamPunk
       Date: April 15, 2014, 8:53 am
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       Just a thought. I have done stuff like this on motor and ram
       shafts but never tried on an axle half shaft.
       To gain purchase on the half shafts without welding, grind
       diametrically opposed notches and drop over a plate with a 'U'
       shape cut to match. Most likely you will need to bolt a bar to
       this plate to close the U and reinforce the plate. Combine with
       DIY slide hammer or get cunning with a bottle jack or two.
       Certain spline failure modes can results in the spines
       offsetting and locking in place, but that normally prevents
       anything more than a mm or two of movement so I think this might
       be worth a try.
       You're welding doesn't have to be great though; to drill a hole
       in a plate, drop it over the halfshaft then weld
       circumferentially around the shaft so the plate cannot come back
       off.
       If you can avoid removing the diff pan or have trouble getting
       it to seal after re-welding, coating the inside of the diff with
       an epoxy resin is an excellent fix. Devcon products are the
       mutts nuts but they ain't available over the counter and have to
       be ordered online.  :)
       #Post#: 87444--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Withdraw the half shafts it said...
   DIR By: seriesewan
       Date: April 22, 2014, 2:53 pm
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       right... its taken a few days of swearing, grinding & cutting
       but i have finally got the bastard out!  ended up slicing off
       the diff pan ( was leaking anyway )  then dismantling the diff
       inside the axle.  Then the fun really began.  the shaft looks
       like its been sheared & for quite a while & the only thing that
       was giving me drive was that the end bit was so badly wedged &
       twisted in the gear that it would not move,  the ends of the
       shafts look like they have been rotating semi freely against
       each other for a while catching on a big burr & giving drive (
       that would explain the loud clunking & squeaking ) .   Anyway
       once i got the little gears out   the end of the shaft became
       visible. it was kind of splayed at the end in the gap between
       the gear & the carrier ( preventing it sliding out )    so a
       swift tickle with the dremel & ground off the flaired end.
       I have a 2nd hand diff that i plan to put in as replacement.  I
       cant see if there is anything wrong with the one i took out but
       i accidentally chopped off one of the lock arms on removal & i
       will have to set it up again. as the crown wheel, bearings & all
       the middle gear sets have been bothered. Ill keep my origional
       as a spare.
       Thanks for all the help & suggestions
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