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#Post#: 86248--------------------------------------------------
U - Bolt
DIR By: AllanI
Date: March 12, 2014, 5:52 am
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Anyone able to give me a part number for a U-bolt as follows.
Front SWB petrol with parabolics.
From inside the "U" to thread start is 4 3/4" and to the end is
6".
Standard U-bolts are too long with not enough thread when used
with the parabolics.
Allan
#Post#: 86249--------------------------------------------------
Re: U - Bolt
DIR By: hippydave
Date: March 12, 2014, 6:10 am
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I have the ones supplied by rocky mountain and they are too long
and I rang them and they said they are designed longer for easy
fitting and then intended to be cut off to length.
#Post#: 86541--------------------------------------------------
Re: U - Bolt
DIR By: Serious Series
Date: March 23, 2014, 5:13 am
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Info from another forum which I believe to be true.
3 X 88" fronts – 624027 Suffix D axle
1 x 109" front – 624028 Suffix D axle
M12 Nuts - NY112041L
Are your rears two leaf or three?
I have same issue have Chris perfects on and need to replace a
couple as they are bent.
#Post#: 86543--------------------------------------------------
Re: U - Bolt
DIR By: Stuey
Date: March 23, 2014, 6:57 am
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Allan, I ended up just getting some decent quality U-bolts that
are thread cut and not rolled (i belive that is the terminology)
i then bought a die nut and cut some new threads into the
U-bolt, a long winded process but all the so called specialist
ones were £40 a set!
#Post#: 86568--------------------------------------------------
Re: U - Bolt
DIR By: AllanI
Date: March 23, 2014, 3:52 pm
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It seems most of the manufacturers use 11mm bar/rod and then
have the threads rolled which makes them 12 dia. GB Springs sent
me a drawing with a table on to select which bolts I needed. I
made my choice but the threads on the items sent weren't to the
drawing dimensions, they were 10mm short on the thread
dimension. I pointed this out to them but I needed to get them
on so used spacer washers.
Allan
#Post#: 86570--------------------------------------------------
Re: U - Bolt
DIR By: landyrads
Date: March 23, 2014, 4:41 pm
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Hi, on mine i'm think i used heavy duty (not sure why they were
called heavy duty though, just what paddocks referred to them
as) rears to fit the front. they were from paddocks and were
fine thread not course thread. there was enough length to torque
up properly with thread left. they did need cutting down after
tightening.
#Post#: 86588--------------------------------------------------
Re: U - Bolt
DIR By: SteamPunk
Date: March 24, 2014, 8:51 am
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--- Quote from: Stuey link ---
>
> Allan, I ended up just getting some decent quality U-bolts
that are thread cut and not rolled (i belive that is the
terminology) i then bought a die nut and cut some new threads
into the U-bolt, a long winded process but all the so called
specialist ones were £40 a set!
>
--- End Quote ---
Please be aware. Formed threads are stronger than cut ones due
to the re-orientation of material grain structure in way of the
thread.
HTML http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&docid=xM5jOPuoGS5EcM&tbnid=IQdgXbmJhsd_FM:&ved=0CAYQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fthelibraryofmanufacturing.com%2Fmetal_rolling.html&ei=nzYwU9jmO6Kb0QWTwIGwAw&bvm=bv.62922401,d.ZG4&psig=AFQjCNGw1GX5H1p2Tky_PTCnR5YukN_HTg&ust=1395755020091963
I would certainly be wary of stress concentrations at the base
of the cut thread if you have used a die nut rather than a
proper die, die nuts are only really intended for cleaning and
dressing of threads and I am not sure that they are capable of
forming the proper radii to dissipate stress and avoid
subsequent fracture. Even use of a proper die is not ideal in
such a critical component.
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