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#Post#: 7336--------------------------------------------------
How I put a 200 Tdi into my Series 2 109"
By: GlenAnderson Date: January 25, 2012, 6:46 am
---------------------------------------------------------
I wrote this in the summer of 2007, whilst carrying out the work
detailed below. Some things have been tweaked since then -
notably the fitment of 3.54:1 diffs in my axles, as well as a
change to 300 Tdi intercooler and a tidy up of pipework. Once
I've got a bit more time I'll add a bit with some pictures
showing what I've done...
In the meantime, with apologies for the graininess (and absence)
of some of the pictures (I'll try and dig out better ones in due
course), here you go:
Installing a 200TDI engine from an early Discovery into a 1959
Series II 109”.
As has been discussed at great length on various Internet
forums, Land-Rover’s 200TDI is possibly the best current option
for an engine upgrade in a Series vehicle. The Discovery and
Defender units, whilst based on identical blocks and heads have
several major differences in the layout of their ancillary
components.
For those of us planning on putting a TDI into a Series vehicle,
probably the biggest difference is the layout of the timing
covers. The Defender cover is the same as fitted to the 2.5NA
and 2.5TD engines and, as a consequence, the fuel injector pump
is mounted low down on the driver’s side of the engine. This
fouls the Series engine-mounting bracket. To use the Defender
engine-mounting bracket requires chassis surgery on the driver’s
side chassis mount. The Discovery timing cover, however, mounts
the injection pump high enough to clear the Series
engine-mounting bracket and allows fitment without chassis
modification (although you do need to re-site the battery tray
and battery).
As I have a galvanised chassis under my 109” I was reluctant to
carry out any welding on it so I sourced a second-hand Discovery
engine and ancillaries via the dreaded ebay. Discovery engines
are also currently more plentiful and therefore cheaper, which
is a bonus!
First job was to remove the Discovery engine mounts. These were
replaced with Series items. On the passenger’s side there are
two sets of mounting holes – use the front set.
Next job was to address the gearbox mounting area. All the studs
on a TDI are metric, M10 to be exact. These are fine, but their
17mm spanner size nuts can be awkward, especially around the
clutch slave cylinder bracket. You need to source four
additional studs for the area around the bottom of the housing.
It is possible to source 15mm spanner size M10 nuts for the
awkward areas and retain the metric studs, but I had a pack of
Series 3/8” studs and a 3/8” UNC helicoil kit – so I decided to
replace all the M10 studs with “proper” Series’ ones!
Most of the original M10 studs are in exactly the right place.
One of them, on the driver’s side of the housing, needs removing
though.
This is the stud you need to remove:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/tdi-1.jpg?t=1327491357[/img]
The housing, very conveniently, has blind holes in all the rest
of the locations needed to match up with a Series gearbox. I
simply tapped these out to 3/8”UNC. The standard TDI set-up uses
four long M10 bolts at the bottom which go through the gearbox
bellhousing, flywheel housing and secure into the sump/block
stiffener. Most people seem to advocate ignoring these, as
earlier engines don’t have them. I reason that Land-Rover felt
they were needed – so rather than leave them out I counterbored
the housing with a 16mm drill to give clearance for some
socket-head cap-screws (Allen bolts if you prefer). M10x75 were
perfect, and sit just below the mounting face of the housing.
There are also two dowels, at about two o’clock and nine o’clock
as you look at the rear of the housing, which need to be pulled
out – a pair of mole-grips did the trick for me.
Housing with new studs and four bottom holes counterbored:
(Sorry, I can't find this pic at the minute - will hunt about
and edit it in later)
Allen bolt in counterbore:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/tdi-2.jpg?t=1327491354[/img]
A final task was to offer the housing up to my spare gearbox’s
bellhousing. This trial fit confirmed the studs were all in the
right place, but revealed the necessity to relieve the housing
slightly to allow it to sit snug against the gearbox. Each of
the “bulges” in the housing that holds (or held) a stud needed
relieving about 1-1.5mm. Once this was done, and a further trial
fit confirmed all was well, the housing was refitted to the
engine with a new housing to block gasket and crank oil seal.
The flywheel then went back on.
Whilst we are at this end of the engine it’s worth mentioning
that the standard Series IIA diesel spec 9.5” clutch pressure
plate (part number 571228) and friction plate (FRC2297) will
bolt straight on to the TDI flywheel and mate with the Series
II/IIA gearbox. If you are using a Series III gearbox then you
can either use a standard Series III clutch, or the TDI pressure
plate with a Series IIA/III friction plate.
In order to avoid a complicated and tortuous exhaust header pipe
I tracked down a set of Defender inlet and exhaust manifolds.
They weren’t cheap, but they will allow a much easier routing of
the exhaust header. Unfortunately, they do mean that the
standard Discovery high mounted alternator was going to foul the
new Defender inlet manifold. As standard, the Discovery engine
uses one belt from the crank to drive the waterpump and
power-steering pump, with a second belt from the power steering
pump then driving the alternator. I had no intention of using
the power steering pump, and needed to resite the alternator, so
I had a bit of a measure up…
The solution I ended up with uses a pulley sourced from an early
‘90’s Volkswagen Jetta/Golf on the standard Discovery alternator
– this puts the “V” of the pulley approximately 12mm further
forward than standard. I then made up two 12mm spacers to fit
between the block and a standard Series III alternator bracket.
This then placed the alternator pulley exactly inline with the
crank and waterpump pulleys. By happy coincidence the original
power steering belt fitted (although the next size up would be a
bit better) and the Discovery alternator-adjusting strap was
re-sited off one of the timing cover bolts.
Series III alternator bracket and 2x12mm spacers:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/tdi-3.jpg?t=1327491351[/img]
Discovery alternator with Volkswagen pulley:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/tdi-4.jpg?t=1327491356[/img]
View from above, showing pulleys all in alignment:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/tdi-5.jpg?t=1327491353[/img]
Front view: Drive belt is standard 200TDI Discovery power
steering belt:
(Sorry, I need to find a copy of this picture too) ;D
Another mod carried out in this area was to swap the alternator
from one “hand” to the other – this is simply done by removing
the 3 long bolts securing the front and rear casings together
and turning them 120 degrees relative to each other, so that the
rear mounting lug lines up with the other front mounting lug,
and then reassembling. The alternator is a standard Lucas A127
55amp unit.
You can also see from the picture that the thread on the nose of
the waterpump has been removed to allow greater clearance
between the pump and radiator. An electric fan will be used
instead of the viscous unit.
The next step is fitting the engine into the chassis.
Normally, when swapping an engine, I would only remove the
bonnet and radiator. This time, however, it made much more sense
to remove both front wings and the radiator panel as well to
make sure I had enough room both to work, and to see and trial
fit the additional TDI ancillaries.
Some careful measuring prior to attempting to fit the engine had
confirmed that it was definitely going to be necessary to modify
the standard, Series style, battery carrier. The injector pump
on the TDI fouled the inner rear corner, and my intended
radiator-fitting site fouled the inner front one. As removing
both of these was going to leave the rest of the assembly very
wobbly I decided to remove the whole thing. I have left the two
outer “tags” about 2/3 of their original length as, maybe, they
might come in handy at a later date. On the next page is a
picture of the chassis minus it’s battery tray.
With no obstacles now to physically getting the engine into the
chassis, that was what I did!
The driver’s side engine mounting (that’s the RHS, looking from
the rear of the engine) needs to be assembled, complete with the
rubber mounting bobbin and bottom plate, before it’s bolted to
the block. Otherwise there is just not enough room to get a
spanner in beneath the injector pump to do the bolts up. I
suppose, if you wanted, you could remove the injector pump for
access – but that seemed a bit pointless to me.
When fitting a Land-Rover engine I always leave the passenger’s
side mounting off the engine. This allows you more movement to
wobble the engine around and get it mated to the gearbox.
Usually the two units will slide straight together if you do
this. Fitting the mount afterwards is a bit of a fiddle, but
it’s easier than struggling with the weight of the engine trying
to get it onto the gearbox.
Chassis with battery tray removed:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall006.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
With the engine bolted to the gearbox, and the mounts secured I
was left with this:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall011.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
TDI bolted up!
Just to confirm, once and for all, that an engine fitted with a
Discovery 200 TDI timing cover will fit straight onto Series
chassis mounts, here are some pictures:
Driver’s side:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall007-1.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
Passenger side:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall009-1.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
Driver’s side again, this time from underneath:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall008-1.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
With the engine in I decided to experiment a little and answer
questions posed by others and myself about the Discovery
manifold set-up… Well, I can categorically say that Discovery
manifolds won’t fit in a 109” chassis without surgery. As you
can see in the pictures the turbo body fouls the top rail of the
chassis by a good ½” to ¾”. I would expect to have to take a
scallop at least 1 ½” deep to clear the turbo and allow for
movement of the engine under load.
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall013.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
I am aware that the manifold assembly will fit, just, in an 88”.
Rotating the turbo compressor housing (“clocking” it) so that
the outlet is at 10 or 11 o’clock, rather than 4 o’clock helps
greatly. Using these manifolds does mean you have to fabricate a
tortuously routed exhaust header pipe though, either down
between the chassis rails and the starter motor, or up and over
the bulkhead mounting bracket and out through the wing and down
the front of the footwell 2.6 style.
Rotating the turbo 180 degrees on the manifold might give you
enough clearance against the chassis, although it would mean
fabricating new oil feed and return pipework, and the wastegate
actuator and linkage would need modifying too. Putting the turbo
outlet at the front would simplify the exhaust routing though,
by giving you a little more room to operate
This is the gap between you’d need to route the exhaust through
with a Discovery manifold – either down past the starter and
chassis, or up over the bulkhead bracket:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall014.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
For those people who have asked me about the fitting of a TDI
into a left-hand-drive vehicle, the above pictures demonstrate
that the Discovery manifolds are going to foul the steering gear
pretty terminally.
All is not lost, however as I am lucky to have been able to
source some Defender 200 TDI manifolds at reasonable cost via
ebay (as mentioned above). With the re-positioned alternator
these bolt straight on. A tip here is to fit and connect the
starter motor before you fit the manifolds, as things are very
tight with them on.
Defender manifolds fitted:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall016.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
The exhaust header pipe you can see in the picture above is part
of a system supplied by Steve Parker Land Rovers (01706 854222).
In addition to their kits for installing alternative engines
into Series Land-Rovers they offer several alternative tailor
made exhaust systems, one of which is a Defender TDI into a
Series LWB with a rear fill tank. I decided to bite the bullet
and treat myself to one, as it will probably save me at least a
day of mucking about. It would be entirely possible to fabricate
a system using a 200TDI header, a Series 2.6 petrol tailpipe and
silencer and fabricating an intermediate pipe to suit, although
the cost saving would probably be offset by the time spent
making it!
Steve Parker exhaust system:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall005.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
Heater pipes connected:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall021.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
The heater pipes on the engine terminate, conveniently, right
next to the inlet pipes for the round Smiths heater that I have
fitted (mine is a 1959 Series II). The hose tail in the rear of
the cylinder head is the same thread (3/8” BSP) as the Series
item; in fact it’s identical to a Series III part. It’s a larger
bore than the corresponding Series II/IIA type so I swapped them
over as, after mucking about with the Discovery pipes for a bit,
I ended up using the pipes I had fitted with the old 2.25
engine. You could even fit a Series II/IIA style tap if you
wanted to, but I run mine open all the time.
The exhaust, I am pleased to report, went on perfectly. I will
say though, space is tight around its route and the larger bore
pipe requires much more careful positioning to prevent it
hitting anything. It took me the best part of a couple of hours
to get it right.
Got to do this in chunks - apparently there's a 20,000 character
post limit!
#Post#: 7337--------------------------------------------------
Re: How I put a 200 Tdi into my Series 2 109"
By: GlenAnderson Date: January 25, 2012, 6:49 am
---------------------------------------------------------
Next bit!
Next up is the fuel system. The previous owner of the engine had
helpfully removed everything with the aid of a Stanley knife, so
a quick trip to a mate to have a peer under the bonnet of his 90
was needed. The TDI system is quite straightforward – fuel from
the tank goes to the front port of the lift pump (the taller of
the two, usually marked “in”), then from the rear port up to the
fuel filter housing. From the fuel filter it goes to the large
single banjo fitting on the front top of the injector pump (next
to the timing cover). The injector spill pipe comes from
injector no. 1, back to a double banjo at the rear of the
injector pump (near the fuel cut-off solenoid), and from there
back to the tank. As I am using the original 2.25 filter housing
for the moment the top bleed-off port is now redundant and has
been blocked off.
Pic of my mate's 90 engine bay:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall015.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
I had planned on using a 2.25 lift pump to save having to change
the tank to pump pipe, but the actuating arms are a different
shape and the 2.25 one didn’t seem to engage on the camshaft
properly so I’ve stuck with the TDI one – probably for the best.
Note: I've subsequently found out that the pump I was trying to
fit wasn't a 2.25 one after all - it was from something else,
but I haven't confirmed that a 2.25 one will fit...
The battery is now re-sited under the passenger’s seat. My
underseat toolbox already had a well in it to accommodate a
battery (presumably because diesel II and IIA’s had twin 6volt
batteries). Tray dimensions are: 310mm long x 185mm wide x max
220mm high (including terminals). The battery I had fitted in
here OK, but if it hadn’t then I imagine buying a battery of the
right size would be easier than mucking about modifying the
tray. A length of 1” x 1” angle, two bits of M8 studding and
some wingnuts make a serviceable battery clamp.
Battery in it’s new home:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall019.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
Wiring has been largely straightforward. As the starter solenoid
is in the same place as the 2.25 all the main cables fitted
straight to the terminal post without modification. Likewise the
alternator plugged straight in (admittedly only because I had
already converted to a Lucas alternator – if you still have a
dynamo then you’ll have to sort yourself out).
I have been advised that the TDI temperature sender won’t work
with the Series gauge, and have sourced an adapter from the M16
x 1 thread in the head to take a standard Series sender. This is
a standard 2.5 petrol item, part number ERC 8973.
2.5 petrol adapter and standard Series’ temperature sender:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall026.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
You need a switched live supply for the fuel cut-off solenoid on
the injector pump. Be aware, most Land-Rover diesel switches cut
the power to the electrical services when cranking, so you’ll
need to source a switch that keeps the current to at least one
switched live terminal when the engine cranks or you’ll never
get it to start! Luckily for me I had a switch identical to the
Series II type but with an additional switched live that does
stay on when cranking. This means I haven’t had to muck about
with an alternative (i.e. a petrol type) and I have been able to
retain the glow plugs “on the key” and not have to worry about a
separate switch or relay for them. Quite an elegant solution,
and one I am pleased with.
I have made up a short mini-loom for the engine comprising oil
pressure feed, water temperature feed and ignition switched live
to the injector pump. This is connected into the main loom at
the bulkhead. The only other wiring modifications were to remove
the Series glow plug ballast resistor and to connect the warning
light wires (that used to run in parallel across the resistor),
one to the glow plug terminal and the other to earth. I have
also replaced the 6volt 3watt glowplug warning lamp bulb with a
12volt 2.2watt one.
My 2.25 engine used a Series III cable linkage as they are much
less prone to inducing unwelcome changes in engine speed caused
by movements of the engine/transmission assembly on it’s mounts
than the rod type. As I have several of them as spares, and they
are both short and cheap to replace I chose to use the Series
III cable (part number 598852) as the basis of my efforts. I
also wished to retain the hand throttle, so it was necessary to
come up with a solution that retained as much of the original
rod system as possible.
Connecting the actuating arm of the TDI pump is simply a matter
of using the 2.25’s pin and clip – it’s a perfect fit. Next, the
TDI pump has a bracket on its rear, terminating in a 16mm hole
for the original throttle cable. I bored a hole through a M16
bolt, and slotted one side for the cable to pass through (much
like a bicycle brake cable adjuster). This secures, with a thin
nut and two washers, through the standard TDI bracket. Next I
took the original Series III throttle pull lever and cable
anchor and, using a small piece of 3mm plate, made a bracket
that would mount where the original cable anchor fitted to the
bulkhead, and hold the cable outer in a suitable place. Finally
I used an old piece of throttle link I had kicking about in the
shed to pull the inner. From the following pictures the eagle
eyed amongst you will no doubt notice I also moved the actuating
arm inboard on the top rod – this was purely for reasons of
neatness. In order to get full opening of the pump it was
necessary to raise the pedal height a few mm. If this feels
awkward in use then I have a slightly longer actuating arm to
try.
Original Series III cable operated throttle:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall004.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
M16 bolt drilled and slotted to form cable mount:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall018.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
Original Series III cable pull and anchor:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall020.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
Series III cable pull welded to a piece of 3mm plate, to fit
where original anchor did. Slight twist ensures smooth cable
run:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall022.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
New cable anchor. Pull lever is standard part (number 277475):
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall023.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
The completed linkage. Note, the link from the accelerator pedal
shaft has been moved inboard on the top cross shaft to allow a
smooth run for the cable:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall025.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
With the engine connected in terms of fuel supply, electrical
connections and exhaust the next step to address was that of
cooling. Specifically the mounting of radiator and intercooler.
My main aim throughout the project has been to determine the
best possible combination of parts for the job, with reliability
and ease of future spares availability as major influences. That
is not to say that cost has been no object – I have tried to
keep costs to a minimum – but I have spent a great deal of time
considering the implications of spending money now as opposed to
both time and money in the future.
With the above in mind I have felt all along that it would be
necessary to use the Discovery radiator and intercooler, rather
than try and source any alternatives. The Discovery set-up has
the benefit of being guaranteed to do the job properly – as well
as being relatively inexpensive. Most of the conversions I have
viewed have placed the intercooler forward of the radiator,
above the chassis crossmember and hard up against the passenger
wing. This has required modification of the intercooler
pipework, meaning a future failure would require modification of
a replacement – and attendant delays whilst this is carried out.
Further, mounting the intercooler here causes problems by
fouling with the Series IIA’s inboard headlamps. I wanted to
retain the standard outward appearance of my vehicle and moving
the headlamps out to the wings was not part of the plan! The
Discovery radiator has an in-built water-to-oil cooler and is
shallower but a little wider and thicker than the original
Series unit. In the Discovery it is mounted on rubber bobbins
within a frame that also contains the intercooler. This mounting
facilitates its removal and replacement at cam-belt change time
and I wanted to carry it over to my vehicle.
Some very careful measuring prior to removing the wings and
front panel revealed that, whilst things were fairly tight,
there was enough room to fit the standard Discovery parts in
side by side without modifying the wings or steering system. The
steering relay and drag-link limit the positioning of the
radiator to the RHS, and the shape of the inner wing on the LHS
means the intercooler has to be set back 22mm from the radiator.
If you set back both intercooler and radiator you run into
clearance problems with the waterpump. The first task was to
remove the original Series radiator fixings from the radiator
panel. The top edge was trimmed back to just before the pressed
step to allow the panel to retain it’s stiffness. The LHS was
trimmed back further, largely removing the angled fillet that
would originally have ducted the incoming air to the radiator
but leaving a small fillet at the top to, once again, lend
stiffness to the top panel. The RHS was trimmed back about an
inch at the top and then chamfered back towards the bottom.
View from LHS of trimmed radiator panel:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall027.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
View from RHS:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall028.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
With this done the front wings were re-fitted. In the bottom of
the LHS wing is a pressed steel filler that bridges the gap
between the chassis top and the wing itself. As standard, this
sits about an inch or so above the top of the chassis rail. My
intended intercooler siting required removal or modification of
this part as to sit the intercooler above it would make things
tight between the intercooler and the bonnet. I cut and stepped
it down so that it sat flush with the chassis rail.
Modified filler panel:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall030.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
My chassis has two steering relay mounting holes, one each side
(not all do). This, conveniently, gave me ready-made mounting
points to anchor my radiator/intercooler frame to. Firstly I cut
the frame at the point where the intercooler and radiators meet.
Then I bolted two short sections of 25x25x3mm steel angle to the
relay mounting points. The frame section for the intercooler was
positioned such that it sat snug into the recess in the LHS wing
and tacked into place. The other (radiator) half was then
offered up such that it was as far forward as possible, giving
maximum clearance from the engine and also tacked into place.
Once the positioning had been checked and verified by
dry-fitting the radiator and intercooler the joins were seam
welded and the top plate was similarly stepped and welded to
match. Two small feet were welded on the rear of the frame, one
each side, to support the rear against the top of the chassis.
These were drilled to take 6mm speed bolts that in turn were
screwed down into the top of the chassis.
Stepped radiator/intercooler mounting frame:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall031.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
Close-up of mounting detail:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall032.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
With the base of the frame bolted into position the LHS upright
was carefully trimmed to allow it to fit in the available space.
Basically the curved front return was removed, and a couple of
small notches cut into it to clear the inner wing. The mounting
for the Discovery radiator cowl was removed as it was both
surplus and in the way.
Intercooler section of the mounting, showing fitment adjacent to
modified filler panel:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall033.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
The RHS upright was trimmed slightly to clear the steering relay
top arm. The relay cleared the upright without modification, but
I chose to remove a small portion of it to be safe. The radiator
sits well inside the frame at this point and is actually 12 to
15mm away from the arm even on full lock:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall034.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
You can just see, in the pictures above, the two small feet that
support the rear of the frame against the chassis top rail. I
have made two top supports for the radiator using rubber
grommets picking up on the original top locating pins and
securing to the radiator panel either side of the bonnet lock.
Radiator and intercooler in position:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall035.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
With the supporting framework modifications completed I could
fit a reconditioned radiator and begin plumbing in the hoses. I
had hoped to be able to use standard Discovery hoses, but the
radiator sits both higher and closer to the engine than when in
the donor vehicle and there was no way that they could be
persuaded to fit. Top hose pictured is a “universal” flexi-hose,
38mm diameter and 400mm long. It has an internal steel spiral,
which allows it to be bent in such a tight curve without
collapsing. This is a semi-permanent solution – I may replace it
with a silicon hose at some future point.
Adjourning for part three!
#Post#: 7338--------------------------------------------------
Re: How I put a 200 Tdi into my Series 2 109"
By: GlenAnderson Date: January 25, 2012, 6:51 am
---------------------------------------------------------
Last bit, honest!
The view from above:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall036.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
Another pic of steering gear clearance:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall037.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
Header tank:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall049.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
The Discovery/Defender radiator doesn’t have it’s own pressure
cap and needs to be used in conjunction with a pressurised
header tank. The plastic Discovery tank I obtained with the
engine was too big and awkwardly shaped to be placed anywhere
sensible in the engine bay. The earlier 90/110 type I had,
whilst smaller physically, was also an awkward shape to find a
home for without having to also redesign the bonnet stay. As has
been mentioned before I wish to leave as much of the vehicle
unmodified as possible – so rather than have both a non-standard
header tank and a non-standard bonnet stay I chose to purchase a
compact “universal” aluminium header tank from a company called
Car Builder Solutions (01580891309). This is approximately 60mm
diameter and 200mm long, and fits comfortably down the side of
the RHS radiator frame upright on a small bracket – leaving
plenty of clearance for the bonnet stay. It incorporates a small
size 1.1bar pressure cap, as found on most modern Japanese cars
and motorcycles.
Header tank:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall041.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
The bottom hose is currently made from two 90degree bends cut
from spare hoses, joined with a special adapter featuring a hose
tail. The hose tail is connected to the bottom of the header
tank. There is a vent hose at the top of the radiator; this is
connected to the top of the header tank to prevent air-locks.
The header tank has a further top inlet which is currently
blocked with a plug cap (supplied with the kit). In the future I
may have this inlet removed completely and welded up. Once my
funds have recovered a little I will replace the current bottom
hose set-up with more appropriately shaped silicon ones.
Next up was the connection of the oil cooler hoses. Initially I
managed to persuade the original discovery items to fit. The
problem with the Discovery hoses is that they are part flexi and
part rigid – in the Discovery they are clamped together and held
secure to the body with a bracket. With the radiator sat higher
and closer to the engine than before the pipes were simply the
wrong shapes to enable a sensible routing. I managed to ease
them into slow curves, which at least got them connected. I
would not like to say how long you could run with the pipes
fitted unsupported in this manner. I only did it to allow
testing of the engine and to enable me to drive the vehicle to a
local hydraulic hose specialist where I could organise the
necessary fittings to make a neat and safe connection.
It was necessary to retain the “short” adapters from the oil
filter end of the pipes, as they are non-standard “Land-Rover
specials”. The one from the top port of the filter housing is a
slightly less acute bend and, when fitted in the bottom port
instead, gives a nice smooth sweep towards the chassis rail.
Fortunately the other one is also better suited to being in the
top port as it then allows the top hose to sweep down to join
it’s partner. The new flexis now run along the inner edge of the
chassis rail – the bottom one secured with a “p” clip and the
top one cable-tied to it. At the radiator end, the original
radiator-to-pipe adapters were removed, as they couldn’t be
matched to new hose tails. Luckily the threads in the radiator
are a standard size (3/8” BSP), and hose tails are freely
available to suit. At the bottom I used a 45degree tail, and at
the top a 90degree one. I chose to use inexpensive “universal”
20Bar-air/oil/water piping on grounds of cost.
Original oil cooler pipes “persuaded” to fit:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall039.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
Still, the results are pretty pleasing, the new hoses loop
neatly and smoothly down from the radiator, along the chassis
rail and to the oil filter housing.
Oil filter end of new oil cooler pipes:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall047.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
The new oil cooler pipes have left plenty of room on the inner
wing for me to mount a Rover Montego Turbo Diesel air filter.
This is a neat round sealed plastic canister, piped inlet and
outlets, that came with it’s own mounting bracket from the donor
car. Filter cartridges are cheap at £2.12 each and, whilst
I doubt they’d be as good in the desert as genuine Land-Rover
ones, are designed for use with a similarly sized turbo diesel
engine so should be more than up to the job whilst driving
around the UK. I have mounted it as high up and as far forward
as possible without fouling the bonnet or the bonnet stay. It
would be easy to route the inlet to a snorkel should you so
wish, but I have fitted an additional cone filter for the time
being. The outlet is just about the same size as domestic
drainpipe, and I used two angled fittings to bring the port
around to a convenient place to attach the hose. The hose is a
standard 2.25 diesel Series “elephant’s trunk”, complete with
its steady clip as removed from my original engine. I used an
inch of 50mm pipe as an adapter to step the hose down to fit the
turbo inlet, but other than that it fitted without modification.
Radiator end of new oil cooler pipes. Also relocated washer
bottle:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall048.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
Rover Montego Turbo Diesel air filter housing (plus drainpipe!):
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall053.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
The breather hose from the rocker cover was shortened and swung
around to fit in the port at the bottom of the filter housing.
Air cleaner and associated pipework all connected:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall045.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
The completed installation:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/200tdiinstall044.jpg?t=1242262830[/img]
View through radiator aperture prior to refitting the cooling
fan:
[img]
HTML http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt313/glenanderson/tdi-41.jpg?t=1327495072[/img]
The Discovery 200TDI intercooler is currently plumbed in with
whatever scrap pieces of hose I had around from vehicles
previously broken. Whilst it fits, subsequent investigation has
shown that the 300TDI Discovery/Defender intercoolers have
their inlet and outlet pipes in more user-friendly locations.
Once I have tracked down one I will swap them over and tidy up
the pipework. Turbo outlet pipe should go to the bottom of the
intercooler, and the top outlet from the intercooler then goes
to the inlet manifold.
I already had a Kenlowe fan fitted to the vehicle prior to the
engine swap. The relative positions of the waterpump and
radiator mean that a mechanical fan is now not an option so the
electric one has been re-fitted in front of the radiator. I have
been lead to believe the TDI engines normally run very cool, and
seldom need fan assistance for the cooling system. Currently a
switch in the cab triggers the fan, with a telltale lamp to
indicate it’s running. I may investigate fitting an automatic
switch in the top hose or the top of the radiator at some future
point, but it is not currently a priority.
Before the swap I had a Ford Transit washer bottle/pump assembly
fitted on the passenger side inner wing. The intercooler and its
associated piping now occupy that space so it was relocated to
the driver’s side.
Well, that’s pretty much it. In addition to the work detailed
above I have carried out an oil and filter change, fitted a new
fuel filter, changed the cam-belt and tensioners and set the
tappet clearances.
Further jobs to do include fitting a remote brake servo and
raising the final drive ratio by changing the differentials for
3.54:1 items. However these are outside the scope of this
article.
Glen Anderson, July 2007.
Well done if you've got this far! As I said above, there were
plans to tinker further, and in the intervening four-and-a-bit
years, most of them have been done, and will be detailed when I
get a bit of time. Glen, Jan 2012
#Post#: 7347--------------------------------------------------
Re: How I put a 200 Tdi into my Series 2 109"
By: hippydave Date: January 25, 2012, 7:19 am
---------------------------------------------------------
Well ive got all that to look forward to when i do my 88 in the
summer
#Post#: 7375--------------------------------------------------
Re: How I put a 200 Tdi into my Series 2 109"
By: rangerovering Date: January 25, 2012, 10:03 am
---------------------------------------------------------
That is bang tidy!
Had a (possible) brain wave when reading that, does this mean a
disco timing case would fit onto 12J and 19J and remove the
engine mount issue? Some of us (ok probably just me) are
stubborn buggers and have stuck with the old engines 8)
I like your expansion bottle, will need that for mine soon.
Any tips on Disco 200 into a 107?
ta
#Post#: 7397--------------------------------------------------
Re: How I put a 200 Tdi into my Series 2 109"
By: GlenAnderson Date: January 25, 2012, 11:04 am
---------------------------------------------------------
[quote author=rangerovering link=topic=760.msg7375#msg7375
date=1327507416]
That is bang tidy!
Had a (possible) brain wave when reading that, does this mean a
disco timing case would fit onto 12J and 19J and remove the
engine mount issue? Some of us (ok probably just me) are
stubborn buggers and have stuck with the old engines 8)
I like your expansion bottle, will need that for mine soon.
Any tips on Disco 200 into a 107?
ta
[/quote]
Cheers!
Yes, I'm pretty sure a Disco timing case will bolt straight on
to a 12J or 19J engine. Whether you will have to faff about with
timing issues I'm not sure as I've never done it, but as long as
the pulleys all use the same number of teeth for their relative
positions or you use the Disco belt/tensioners/pulleys I can't
see a problem. A blown 200Tdi should be cheap enough to scavenge
the bits off to see.
As to putting it all in a 107"... You'll need a 2.25 type
bellhousing on your gearbox instead of the IOE type, and I'm not
sure about the relative positions of chassis-engine mountings.
The front axle is 2" further back of course, which might
exacerbate the front pulley to axle clearance problems some
people have had... It really depends what you've currently got
in there and what you find as you pull it all out. I wouldn't
think you'd run into too many problems though - or certainly
nothing insurmountable. I'd say your biggest problem will be the
rivet-counting brigade, who'll no doubt be after you with pointy
things for doing it to a series 1!
Glen.
#Post#: 7404--------------------------------------------------
Re: How I put a 200 Tdi into my Series 2 109"
By: stuey Date: January 25, 2012, 11:31 am
---------------------------------------------------------
Didn't realise it was you who did the stuff on the expedition
Land Rover website, that is good stuff. I have been studying
and reading it over the last few days as I'm looking at TDi'ing
the new motor, looks like a class job you've done and a truly
comprehensive guide :)
[quote author=hippydave link=topic=760.msg7347#msg7347
date=1327497589]
Well ive got all that to look forward to when i do my 88 in the
summer
[/quote]
So have you got hold of the motor then?
#Post#: 7407--------------------------------------------------
Re: How I put a 200 Tdi into my Series 2 109"
By: Harry2a Date: January 25, 2012, 11:40 am
---------------------------------------------------------
Your manifold photo is on the expedition landrover site is it
not?
Very Informative, nice job.
#Post#: 7421--------------------------------------------------
Re: How I put a 200 Tdi into my Series 2 109"
By: GlenAnderson Date: January 25, 2012, 12:35 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
[quote author=Harry2a link=topic=760.msg7407#msg7407
date=1327513222]
Your manifold photo is on the expedition landrover site is it
not?
Very Informative, nice job.
[/quote]
Yes, it's my write-up and pictures on Teri-Anne's site. She
asked me if she could host it shortly after I wrote a blog of it
on the Series 2 forum, so I edited the blog into the one thread
that you see here.
Thanks all, for the positive comments. Glad it's been a
help/inspiration to folks.
Glen.
#Post#: 7444--------------------------------------------------
Re: How I put a 200 Tdi into my Series 2 109"
By: Redwinch Date: January 25, 2012, 1:41 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
Your article encouraged me to transplant a defender 200 tdi into
my 109 station wagon, although I fitted the LT77 with the
ashcroft conversion plate, moving the gearbox mounts back and
shortening the rear prop, found the defender 90 prop ok for the
front, other than the larger bore exhaust it cant be seen as any
different (until you start and accelerate away, that is !!!!!!)
Cheers Ian
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