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#Post#: 83861--------------------------------------------------
Ball Joints
DIR By: StuartN
Date: January 13, 2014, 10:30 am
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Ay up,
Which ball joints do I need for the steering box drop arm and
the top of the steering relay?
Want to get them ordered as I did the 4 on the steering rods not
long ago and I will have the wings and the front panel off in a
couple of weeks so good opportunity to get them done. Just need
to identify them but it is too dark on a night to see easily so
if anyone can save me the effort...
Cheers
S :thumbs:
#Post#: 83863--------------------------------------------------
Re: Ball Joints
DIR By: Albert Ross
Date: January 13, 2014, 10:39 am
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Watch for a number of things in this area. Grease nipples tend
to foul and crack off or scrape along the chassis leg. Also,
connected to this clearance issue, some TREs are taller when
fitted, as the taper is further up the pin. This is to increase
the clearance between rod and spring when used for the
transverse bars. So use the smallest height joints, with either
no grease nipple, and/or greasable ones with blanking plugs. If
they ARE too big, you can use them for the transverse bars. You
should need a left and a right hand of each, also, consider the
age of the steering rod, and whether you need the shouldered, or
full thread type. They cannot be mixed and matched, as one
combination offers no guarantee that the threads won't pull out
as the bar is "pulled" under tension, leaving you with no
steering. I cannot remember which combination this is!! Just be
certain to replace the thread type like for like! Also, when
refitting, make sure you have measured the "pin to pin"
dimension of the complete rod before dismantling. This should be
done with the pins set at right angles to the rod, and measured
from the centre on the pin tip. Setting this before fitting to
the vehicle assists with setting the steering wheel angle once
fitted. Leave an equal amount of visible threads on each end,
and don't tighten the security clamps until you are happy with
the alignment, paying attention to the position of the clamps so
they don't foul the steering box stanchion, battery tray frame,
or chassis rail. I make it sound easy eh?
#Post#: 83866--------------------------------------------------
Re: Ball Joints
DIR By: StuartN
Date: January 13, 2014, 10:54 am
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Ah didn't realise there were different types of rod. That makes
it all a bit more complicated.
Mine is a '84 (obviously late production) if that makes a
difference.
In theory fully threaded with a short pin should be ok...?
Thanks for that.
S :thumbs:
#Post#: 83903--------------------------------------------------
Re: Ball Joints
DIR By: Albert Ross
Date: January 13, 2014, 4:30 pm
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Well, it's more a case of this. Has someone fucked about in the
past and fitted one from 1963 because that's all they could
find? Check the rod and balljoints physically before spending
money. Ideally remove it and go armed with it to the place you
buy the new ones, to match them up.
#Post#: 83916--------------------------------------------------
Re: Ball Joints
DIR By: StuartN
Date: January 14, 2014, 2:43 am
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Aye that would be the best way forward.
These are the problems you run into using it as a daily driver.
You try to avoid doing anything that will have it off the road
for more than a day, so parts are generally bought in advance of
actually getting a good look at the job. Oh well...
S :thumbs:
#Post#: 84007--------------------------------------------------
Re: Ball Joints
DIR By: bubble
Date: January 15, 2014, 1:00 pm
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This is how I covered the job on a 1980 series 3 if it helps?
HTML http://www.seriesdiesellandrover.com/steering.html
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