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#Post#: 83522--------------------------------------------------
My steamy toy
By: Matthew Date: January 7, 2014, 9:57 pm
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[quote author=Wooden link=topic=7479.msg82709#msg82709
date=1387669152]
[quote author=Matthew link=topic=7479.msg82704#msg82704
date=1387662744]
Main priority for me will be fixing the traction engine that has
languished broken in the back of the workshop since
October.[/quote]
Further details are an imperative!
Je suis très excité
:smilewide:
[/quote]
As requested, here's a thread on my traction engine! Posts are
very long, so are copied from another thread I have running on
an inferior forum. Apologies for some of the very simplistic
writing, it was originally aimed at an audience who dont know
much, if anything, about steam machinery!
Part 1 (14th April 2012)
Due to popular demand I've finally got around to making this,
the first of my vehicle writeups and a glimpse into the smoky
world of steam power:
This is my 3" to the foot (1/4 Scale) miniature of the 1910
Marshall 10-Ton traction engine No.54587 "Pride of the Road",
which I bought during the Christmas holidays. It is 56" long and
weighs approximately 300kg dry.
HTML https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/557709_10150670836828878_1845855167_n.jpg
This is the full-size engine:
HTML https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/294349_10150342568533878_549199809_n.jpg
As with many miniatures, the engine was built over a number of
years from a commercially available kit of castings and a scale
boiler.
The heart of any steam engine is the boiler/firebox assembly,
especially on a traction engine where in lieu of a separate
frame the boiler forms a chassis to which everything else
mounts. According to the logbook that came with the engine, the
steel boiler vessel was built in 1994, but due to other delays
in completing the engine it was not steamed until 2008/9.
This is a relief, as a boiler normally has a lifespan or 10-15
years of weekly steaming until it needs major work or even total
replacement to rectify internal corrosion and metal thinning
rendering it unsafe for further use. At the same time, it means
the boiler is early enough to sidestep more stringent paperwork
on post-2002 builds. With use of modern tannin-based corrosion
inhibiting water treatment, and the fact that being at uni cuts
off a fair chunk of the show season, with luck this boiler will
last a decent while longer than average.
The rest of the engine started life as a kit of raw foundry
castings from Brunel Models of Lancashire. It was expertly
machined and assembled by a very talented engineer called John
in his home workshop. Machining one of these kits of no mean
feat, calling for precision drilling, boring, honing, milling
and turning with only very vague instructions and scaled-down
blueprints of the real thing to work from! Other panelwork such
as the tender (the coal and water storage compartment that
extends backward from between the rear wheels) was hand-formed
and riveted from sheet brass.
After 2 or 3 seasons of rallying the engine, John decided to
sell it on to finance the building of another miniature in a
larger scale. Noting my wanted advert on a traction engine
forum, he got in touch. Although the engine was nearly a foot
longer than the miniature Burrell I was after (more on why this
is a problem later), at the price he offered it to me the
opportunity was far too good to pass up - it was mechanically
perfect but in need of some cosmetic TLC. Some dosh changed
hands and I was now an engine owner!
So, in my Christmas holidays work commenced. An insulated
storage area was constructed (letting lots of delicate pipework
freeze on winter nights is a very bad and expensive idea). The
next week we pinched a van from Dad's office and set off to
Lancashire for a crash course in engine driving before loading
up and bringing it home.
HTML https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/400818_10150457667253878_1255641998_n.jpg
Driving a traction engine is not quite as simple as driving a
car!
[IMG]
HTML http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh5/rockin_all_over_the_world/tediagram.png[/img]
1 - Handbrake winding lever.
2 - Boiler pressure gauge. Sort of like the BHP dial on a
Veyron. Anything from 10psi gives enough to lug the driver
about, the redline (120psi) will suffice to tow a car - powerful
stuff, steam!
3 - Firebox door. Put coal in here and set fire to it. At
anything other than ticking over stationary, it needs a good
feeding every few minutes
4 - Water level gauges (the glass tubes). The trick is to keep
the level right by balancing use with replenishment. Let it run
too low and you melt an emergency stopper in the boiler that
lets all the steam out to prevent an explosion. Let it run too
high, and water is drawn into the cylinder with similar effects
to hydraulic-ing a car engine.
5 - Water pump valve - screw this in to replenish the boiler
water level (see 4.)
6 - Steering wheel. If you can't identify one of these then you
shouldnt be allowed out in public unsupervised.
7 - Regulator - pulling this open allows steam into the cylinder
in the same fashion as a throttle
8 - Reversing lever - this is an additional method of throttle
control by determining how far the valves open. In the middle
they dont open at all - like a neutral gear. the further from
the centre it is, the more the vales open, increasing the power
of each stroke but also the amount of steam used so reducing
coal and water economy (So you could say that traction engines
pioneered variable valve timing!!). Which side of the centre it
is determines the direction of piston motion.
9 - Gear selector - moving this engages the gearshaft with the
crankshaft. To the left = low gear (~1mph), right = high gear
(~5mph). Some engines have a third extra-long road gear that
gives 15mph. It doesnt sound much but on a traction engine its a
positively scary speed!
After getting the engine home I invited round a local
owner/builder of the same model for a day's steaming. We had a
great afternoon trundling up and down my drive and I learnt the
finer points of raising a fire and driving the engine, as well
as the post-driving maintenance such as polishing away the oil
dribbles and sweeping the soot out of the firebox heat
exchanging tubes (this ensures heat transfers easily from the
fire to the water in the boiler).
HTML https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/564118_10150670835883878_289622778_n.jpg<br
/>
Alas, bad news was to follow. 2 years ago, the safety rules
changed for miniature engines to require not 1 but 2 methods of
getting water into the boiler whilst in steam. In an emergency
situation the last thing you want to find is that the part
responsible for replenishing boiler the water level has broken
or you will therefore be sitting on a mobile bomb. This is why
full-size engines have both a mechanical pump driven from the
crankshaft, and a steam-powered water injector that uses dark
science to do with pressure and temperature differentials. As it
stood, my engine had just the mechanical pump and would
therefore no longer be capable of passing the relevant checks to
gain certification for display at public shows.
With much to-ing and fro-ing of emails, the engine went back to
John to have an injector retrofitted and tested and was now
show-ready.... almost
The only thing preventing me now was the imminent expiry of the
boiler test certificates. these are like a 2-tier MOT system for
steam engines, without which they cannot legally be steamed
anywhere where the general public is in attendance. There is an
annual steam test, during which the boiler is steamed up to its
red line to check the the safety valves operate correctly and
prevent pressure rising any higher:
HTML https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/548596_10150670837428878_821823011_n.jpg
There is also a 2-yearly hydraulic test. this is the main
structural integrity test of the boiler, during which it is
filled with water and pressurised to 1.5x the maximum working
pressure - 180PSI in my case!!!
Pressure is held whilst the inspector checks for any leaks or
weeping - and no sign of either was found on mine :)
I was lucky enough to have both of these tests done last week
for free, due to joining the extremely helpful and friendly
Handforth Model Engineering Society, a group based near Cheadle
that caters for both Traction engines and miniature railway
locomotives. I would have some photos to show you but due to
fact it pissed with horizontal rain for the duration of the test
I refrained from doing anything except seeking shelter!
So, I now have the engine back home, and ready to take to shows
- once I have finished recommissioning and modifying the
motorbike trailer I had to buy to accomodate it! (I told you its
extra length was a problem - a Burrell would just about have
fitted neatly in the back of the Land Rover!)
The next step I want to take is to get the engine
road-resigtered. Being steam powered, it is tax and mot exempt,
and all it needs to be road legal is a set of registration
plates (whether you get given yearly or q plates seems to depend
on your local DVLA office). Many people do register and use
their miniatures on the road, though it is a tad exposed so they
often tuck into convoys of full-size engines for protection!
Anyway, here's a few more pictures for you, and if you see me at
a show in the Cheshire area over the summer then do come and say
hi!
HTML https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/526643_10150670835603878_1737367920_n.jpg
HTML https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/545205_10150670831548878_579011362_n.jpg
HTML https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/295010_10150670834788878_433597880_n.jpg
HTML https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/546705_10150670836528878_897265876_n.jpg
#Post#: 83523--------------------------------------------------
Re: My steamy toy
By: Matthew Date: January 7, 2014, 10:06 pm
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Part 2 - 16th April 2012
You certainly cannot beat the smell of burning coal mingled with
hot steam oil
HTML http://www.pistonheads.com/inc/images/cloud9.gif
We need more young people involved in the hobby as too many of
them see it as an old man's pastime. If they are really serious,
then a good start is to enrol in the NTET's Steam Apprentice
Club:
HTML http://www.ntet.co.uk/sac/
A sort of update:
Today has seen me doing some jobs and prep work on the engine
and accessories. First job was to drop the grate from the
firebox and rake out the half-burnt coals from the last
steaming. The hard bit is getting it back on as it is secured on
pegs by 4 small circlips
[IMG]
HTML http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh5/rockin_all_over_the_world/ae51d417.jpg[/img]
After that, a quick sweep of the boiler tubes and a good
all-over polish was all it needed. if you've ever wondered why
owners are continually polishing at shows, its because the
total-loss lubrication of every pivot and joint in the "motion
work" (all the bits between the cylinder and the flywheel) drips
all over the boiler cladding leaving it streaked in thick, dirty
oil.
Attention then turned to the trailer I'd bought, an old
motorbike carrier:
[IMG]
HTML http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh5/rockin_all_over_the_world/trailer.jpg[/img]
The plan is to square off the a-frame and board it with some
spare 12mm ply I have left over from another job, along with
some other jobs to make it ready to carry the engine. Exam
revision was procrastinated to doodle the plans for a handyman
friend to chop'n'weld it:
[IMG]
HTML http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh5/rockin_all_over_the_world/ac07bd21.jpg[/img]
In the meantime, it needs some new tyres!
[IMG]
HTML http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh5/rockin_all_over_the_world/d3d81166.jpg[/img]
(yes, I puled it 15 miles home like that, full of tyre sealant
:eek: )
After a half hour fight with a tyre lever and some rather nice
lavender scented fairy liquid, I had a set of bare rims ready to
send for shotblasting and priming as a favour from yet another
mate - you soon end up well-connected in the steam world,
everyone is incredibly helpful and friendly!
The trailer is then going to be painted to match the new colour
scheme the engine will be getting in a year or 2 when I'm
familiar enough with it to strip off all the wheels, boiler
classing and other tinwork. Eventually it should end up painted
something like the Fowler Showman's road loco "Renown", in deep
blue with gold (or possibly off white) piping:
HTML http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4136/4820654568_8b6ca2e555_z.jpg
Another little project is to make a chimney blower. On an
engine, the flow of air goes into the bottom of the firebox, up
through the grate, through the boiler tubes and out the chimney.
On a full-size engine there is plenty of flow even when cold
with a just-lit fire. However, as the size of the engine
decreases, the airflow ratio does not decrease proportionally,
and thus on smaller scale engines such as mine it can be a
challenge to get the fie going. The normal solution is therefore
to place an electric blower on top of the chimney to pull air
through until the fire is going and able to create its own
draft.
The problem is, it's very hard to find an impellor fan these
days that is all-metal - plastic ones dont like the exhaust of a
roaring coal fire!
Step forward a military surplus website, and the cooling fan
from a 1970s Army valve radio set (amazing what one can buy on
the internet these days!)
[IMG]
HTML http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh5/rockin_all_over_the_world/6ab61fff.jpg[/img]
Having established it wont run off a piddly house battery, I
found that once connected to the man-sized Land Rover battery it
shifts a surprising amount of air for its size. thus, more
doodling ensued (but this time using my technical drawing
skills), and I have some plans for an adaptor to get fabbed up:
[IMG]
HTML http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh5/rockin_all_over_the_world/a3048eec.jpg[/img]
For now though, its back in the garage with everything until
mid-june, when uni exams finish and I can go out and play again!
#Post#: 83524--------------------------------------------------
Re: My steamy toy
By: Matthew Date: January 7, 2014, 10:19 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
Part 3 - 16th September 2012
MEGA UPDATE! Warning - extremely technical explanations ahead to
satisfy the fellow engineering geeks!
Well, its been a fun and eventful season!
After much grinding, chopping, bashing and welding by PHer Buzzy
Bee (Edit: aka. Edwin Foden of this here OLLR parish), the
motorbike trailer in my previous post was now sporting the
addition of some nice "wings" to carry the decking for the
engine (and I ordered some new tyres too!):
[IMG]
HTML http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh5/rockin_all_over_the_world/9bc0be54.jpg[/img]
After a few arguments on colour, we decided to paint it to match
the Series Landy rather than any current or future colour scheme
of the engine. This was mainly due to the available colours of
rust-proof paint!
Some loading ramps were fashioned from 1" marine ply, with some
seriously beefy metal hooks bolted to one end to keep them in
place on the back of the trailer when taking the strain
[IMG]
HTML http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh5/rockin_all_over_the_world/4ebf1a86.jpg[/img]
The trailer was finished off with a piece of scrap curtainsider
lorry canvas nailed to the bottom to cover the bloody big
[s]bike rung[/s] hole down the centre. On the shiny (and
visible) top side, some spare offcuts of 3/4" ply liberally
coated in yacht varnish, gave a lovely period look :)
And voila, one beautiful Land Rover, traction engine and trailer
combo:
[IMG]
HTML http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh5/rockin_all_over_the_world/tepb1.jpg[/img]
So, I was all set for my first outing of the season (in fact my
very first outing full stop) - the Lancashire and Morecambe
Model Engineering Society's annual open day. One problem - it
was 11pm the night before, and the weather had been awful all
day. The roads were soaking wet, and the £5 tarp from ebay didnt
fit in any way shape or form (its not easy to wrap something
traction engine shaped in a square tarp!). This called for some
lateral thinking, which led to an SAS-style raid on the kitchen
cupboard for some clingfilm when mum wasn't looking rofl
[IMG]
HTML http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh5/rockin_all_over_the_world/tepb2.jpg[/img]
In the end, we got to Lancs without incident, and had a
brilliant day despite discovering a few teething troubles!
HTML https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/s720x720/531596_10150954787078878_97134703_n.jpg
The first problem I soon discovered was with the cheap Chinese
garden trolley I bought and built to act as a supply trailer to
keep my coal, water and oil in when roaming the rally field
arenas away from base pitch. It was rated at 300kg, and worked
brilliantly for, ooh, 20 yards loaded with a 20kg sack of coal
and a bloke sat on it. Then this happened:
[IMG]
HTML http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh5/rockin_all_over_the_world/tepb3.jpg[/img]
Undeterred, I unhitched it and carried on roaming at a reduced
radius. A cracking couple of hours ensued as I learnt the finer
points of managing fire and water - with the added complication
of slopes. As explained in the opening post, the amount of water
in the boiler has to be just right. The boiler itself is
essentially a big cylinder with a square box on one end. Because
of this, the structurally weakest part of it is the "crown", ie
the flat (or sometimes "m" shaped) sheet covering the top of the
firebox and blending into the main tube. This diagram skanked
off t'interweb explains it better than I can with words:
[IMG]
HTML http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh5/rockin_all_over_the_world/tepb5.jpg[/img]
Let the water level run too low and the crown is the first part
of the boiler to be uncovered - and this will soon overheat,
soften and rupture causing a catastrophic explosion. Luckily,
there is an emergency stopper called a fusible plug to prevent
this - a hollow brass bolt with a tin solder core that melts at
a far lower temperature than it takes to soften steel. If the
crown is uncovered, this melts and lets all the steam and water
out of the boiler, dousing the fire in the process. Oh, and its
an utter sod to get at to replace!!! Let the water level run too
high on the other hand, and water is drawn into the cylinder
with similar effects to hydraulic-ing a car engine.
So what does this have to go with gradients, you might ask?
Well, keeping the water level correct is child's play on the
flat, but on a gradient all the water sloshes to one end of the
boiler! So, when going downhill, the water all goes to the front
of the boiler and leaves the fusible plug uncovered. Going
uphill, it all sloshes to the crown, which would be great if not
for the fact that this is where the steam inlet for the cylinder
usually is - hydraulic time!
As such, driving an engine calls for great vigilance of what the
road or terrain ahead is like - if its going downhill, get that
water pumping in as fast as possible to "overfill" the boiler as
it begins to nose down. For going uphill, run the level as low
as possible as you approach the hill.
On a full-size engine, it takes a fairly large slope to cause
this kind of frantic level-fiddling, but in a miniature scale
every slight incline is a potential hazard!
Anyway - back to teething troubles :banghead
After a few hours of playing, I got off to tend to something
else and noticed a suspiciously redundant looking actuator on
the motion-work (all the moving linkages you can see on the top
between the cylinder and the driver's footplate). To my horror,
a little bit of linkage for the cylinder lubricator had worked
loose, come undone and fallen off. This was slightly alarming as
it meant that, for an undetermined amount of time, no
lubrication had been reaching the cylinder :eek:
So how does the cylinder lubricator work? Well:
The cylindrical bar at the bottom of the below picture is linked
to the crankshaft by an eccentric bearing shell, and moves back
and forth as the crank rotates (kind of like a pushrod). The
vertical post is clamped to this, so moves back and forth,
moving the linkage at the top of it. This causes the brass
connecting rod to move back and forth, rotating the shaft in the
middle of it about a quarter or a turn either way.
[IMG]
HTML http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh5/rockin_all_over_the_world/b9b11d94.jpg[/img]
As the shaft turns, it causes the cam inside the box here to
force down the spring-loaded plunger on its way up and again on
its way down. Now, this little box is usually full of 650 grade
(yes, 650 weight - none of your poncy 10w30 here!) oil, so as
the plunger is depressed by the cam a small amount of the oil is
forced out, down a tube, through a pair of non-return valves and
into the cylinder during each stroke. Here, it atomises into the
steam charge and condenses on the cylinder bore, providing
essential lubrication in possibly the worst environment for a
precision-machined metal surface - constantly being steam
cleaned!
This is a total loss lubrication system as each fresh charge of
steam washes the oil out of the bore again and up the chimney
with the steam exhaust - hence the constant supply of oil. And
hence why it was rather a worry to realise it wasnt working!!!
[IMG]
HTML http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh5/rockin_all_over_the_world/0836719b.jpg[/img]
Lacking the supply of incredibly tiny spanners and allen keys to
fix it at the event, that rather put the kibosh on activities
for the day..
Oh well, it meant I got to have a go on a 4" (1/3 scale) Burrell
- I think I know what I'll be looking to upgrade to in a few
years time!
[IMG]
HTML http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh5/rockin_all_over_the_world/tepb6.jpg[/img]
All went quiet then for a few weeks, until I was able to get the
engine over to the house of the friendly local enthusiast
mentioned in the original post. Knowing much more than me on how
to re-setup the linkage so the cam was in the right position
relative to the push rod and linkage, he soon had it sorted.
The next rally was to be Cheshire Steam Fair (in Warrington).
Well, it was supposed to be until the weather turned the
showground into this:
[IMG]
HTML http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh5/rockin_all_over_the_world/383bb000.jpg[/img]
Doesnt look bad on the truck, but that equates to about half way
up the wheels on an engine my size!! having been pre-warned by a
friend already there, I left the engine at home and thumbed my
nose at all the other exhibitors by driving the Landy straight
through the deepest bit of the mud right to my pitch, as they
all waited for a tractor tow :giddy:
In the meantime, the engine had broken again. :banghead
Steaming it up at a local village show, I soon discovered the
water pump wasnt quite working to its full extent - ie. it
couldnt put water in the boiler as fast as it was being used for
the hardly demanding task of sitting ticking over. Something
obviously wasn't quite right here!
After putting out the fire and packing up then fuming a bit, I
got out the plans that came with the engine to see exactly what
was supposed to be happening in there, and thus try and work out
what had gone wrong. I was suddenly very very glad I had paid
attention in engineering drawing classes!
[IMG]
HTML http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh5/rockin_all_over_the_world/tepb4.jpg[/img]
The pump uses another eccentric bearing shell from the crank
(eccentric crank-driven bearings are a steam engineer's
favourite way of generating linear motion from the crank) to
drive a plunger-type pumping cylinder that is in constant
operation. This lifts water from the tender into the bypass
valve, where normally it is directed back into the tender. When
the valve is wound down, this exit is blocked and the water is
forced down a pipe into the clack on the side of the boiler. The
clack valve is basically a ball bearing wedged in the flared end
of a pipe, screwed into the pressurised part of the boiler. The
steam pressure holds the ball bearing tight into the pipe
normally, but, when pumping, the incompressible nature of water
forces the ball out just enough to get past and into the boiler.
Having taken all the aforementioned to pieces and confirmed it
was all working properly, the problem of course turned out to be
something annoyingly simple that I could have fixed at the show!
The hand wheel on the bypass valve had loosened, moved down on
its shaft and tightened again, meaning that when it felt like
the valve was full wound down (ie maximum pumping), it wasnt -
meaning most of the water was still bypassing back into the
tender. Grrrrrr
All too soon, however, it was time for my last show of the
season as an exhibitor - Astle Park. This was my first "proper"
grass field large-scale show. It was also my first time keeping
the engine in steam all day from 9.30 to 4.30 - and let me tell
you it is bloody knackering!! On a full-size engine you can top
up the boiler to max, stick a few lumps of coal on the fire then
leave it ticking over for an hour or 2. No such luck with a
miniature though - the smaller an engine is, the quicker things
happen. 5 minutes for a sandwich or toilet break is all you're
likely to get before either fire, water or one of the various
lubrication points needs attention, typically requiring you to
get on your hands and knees just for extra aches and pains by
the end of the day...
However, no pain no gain! Astle park is a mobile show, ie. the
engines are allowed to move around as they please within reason,
rather than some shows where they are roped off and forced to
sit stationary all day. So I took the opportunity to tour the
entire showground on the engine!
The highlight of the day was the miniatures contingent mixing it
with the full size boys in the parade arena ;D ;D ;D
HTML https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/s720x720/553868_10151041700773878_1774299129_n.jpg
And yep, that's Fred Dibnah's roller in the background, rallied
these days by his sons Roger and Jack.
Astle Park over, it was time to ready the engine for its winter
bedtime. Steaming up once last time, the fire was built up
nicely dropped out the grate whilst burning fiercely (rather
than letting it die off naturally and go out by itself), so that
I could open the boiler drain tap whilst still hot and
pressurised to 10-15psi (dont try this at home kids!). This is
the equivalent of draining a car's engine oil whilst hot - most
of the crap such as silt comes out in suspension with the water,
negating the need for it to be pressure-washed through an
inspection hatch later on. If you leave it over winter it dries
and hardnes to a cement-like substance with similar effects to
scaling up a kettle. The latent heat of the boiler also means
that, once the steam and water has emptied and other inspection
plugs are opened up, it dries itself off inside. This stops
moisture and condensation remaining in the boiler so the risk of
internal corrosion is at a minimum.
A few other menial jobs include sweeping the soot out of the
boiler tubes - as the smoke and hot air is drawn through the
tubes and out the chimney, a helluvalot of soot goes with it
too! Once again, this builds up and reduces the efficiency of
heat transfer from the hot gas to the water its supposed to be
boiling.
Pro Tip - everything within a 10 foot radius will get covered in
a very fine layer of soot dust. I turned the shower basin black
after that little job!
[IMG]
HTML http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh5/rockin_all_over_the_world/E4BF4C22-BA31-4045-B824-9DA9F71460DA-589-000000703AA493E3.jpg[/img]
And so the engine is now hibernating for the winter somewhere
insulated and heated, to prevent any chance of frost damage (a
very major risk to full-size engines kept outside under sheeting
during their working lives) and I eagerly away the start of next
year's show season!
Phew, my fingers are knackered now!
#Post#: 83528--------------------------------------------------
Re: My steamy toy
By: rowehillmaster Date: January 7, 2014, 11:44 pm
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BRAVO :smilewide:
#Post#: 83535--------------------------------------------------
Re: My steamy toy
By: mr.scruff Date: January 8, 2014, 4:14 am
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Whoever built that knew their onions, nice detail on it.
54587's for sale at the moment so I hear.
#Post#: 83536--------------------------------------------------
Re: My steamy toy
By: StuartN Date: January 8, 2014, 4:32 am
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Great post and very interesting for those of us without much
knowledge of steam but a mechanically interested mind.
Keep em coming, very entertaining.
S :thumbs:
#Post#: 83542--------------------------------------------------
Re: My steamy toy
By: Yorkie V8 Date: January 8, 2014, 5:08 am
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Nice little engine and a good thread, well explained.
Would be good to keep updating your adventures on here!
(Pandora's Firebox)
#Post#: 83578--------------------------------------------------
Re: My steamy toy
By: Peter de Dawg Date: January 8, 2014, 12:24 pm
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Really top stuff, love it ! :thumbs:
#Post#: 83580--------------------------------------------------
Re: My steamy toy
By: strang Date: January 8, 2014, 1:06 pm
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Nice one Matt - steaming to Panama Hatty's next? :smile1
#Post#: 84327--------------------------------------------------
Re: My steamy toy
By: chally2 Date: January 21, 2014, 1:09 pm
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Great stuff.
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