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#Post#: 83516--------------------------------------------------
Re: Series 3 swivel refurb (picture heavy)
By: samc88 Date: January 7, 2014, 4:24 pm
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Thanks for the comments :)
I do have a set of leather gaiters to fit later on (Its just
remembering to fit them when I put the retainer on) ;D
Right then, the 3 offending bolts were cut off using the grinder
and by persuading it with a mallet,the housing came off.
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1072058_zps8c9e0634.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1072058_zps8c9e0634.jpg[/img][/URL]
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1072059_zpsd0918b68.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1072059_zpsd0918b68.jpg[/img][/URL]
Once this was on the bench, the first job was to remove the seal
retainer (I had previously took this off to remove the old
gaiters so the bolts were still loose).
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1072060_zps49f98e6a.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1072060_zps49f98e6a.jpg[/img][/URL]
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1072061_zps973c04a3.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1072061_zps973c04a3.jpg[/img][/URL]
Revealing the (rather mucky) oil seal behind
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1072062_zps4f34aa6e.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1072062_zps4f34aa6e.jpg[/img][/URL]
Which is then drawn out with a scraper
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1072063_zps6925b953.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1072063_zps6925b953.jpg[/img][/URL]
To free the swivel ball from the housing, the top and bottom
swivel pins need to be removed.
First tap back the locking plates
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1072064_zpsba9f93b3.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1072064_zpsba9f93b3.jpg[/img][/URL]
First to be removed is the upper swivel pin. The 4 bolts were
removed. Using an 18mm socket on an impact driver really speeds
up this job :)
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1072065_zpsc1653927.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1072065_zpsc1653927.jpg[/img][/URL]
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1072066_zpse6596089.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1072066_zpse6596089.jpg[/img][/URL]
This image shows the shims present
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1072067_zpsfb2f91a2.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1072067_zpsfb2f91a2.jpg[/img][/URL]
Next was the turn for the lower one (process is exactly the same
for both)
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1072068_zps62a2336b.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1072068_zps62a2336b.jpg[/img][/URL]
When we took the lower pin out, it also started to bring the
bearing with it
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1072070_zpsd4e395d4.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1072070_zpsd4e395d4.jpg[/img][/URL]
The lower pin has an o-ring which must be replaced
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1072069_zps79effd86.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1072069_zps79effd86.jpg[/img][/URL]
Once these are out, the swivel ball itself is ready to be taken
out
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1072071_zps594c8573.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1072071_zps594c8573.jpg[/img][/URL]
So there we have it, one dismantled swivel housing :) The
bearings and seals will all be replaced so the next job was to
spend the rest of the night cleaning up all the parts ready for
reassembling tomorrow :)
Heres a shot of some of the cleaned up parts given a coat of
red-oxide
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1072072_zps5a36385d.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1072072_zps5a36385d.jpg[/img][/URL]
Cheers,
Sam
#Post#: 83620--------------------------------------------------
Re: Series 3 swivel refurb (picture heavy)
By: divie Date: January 9, 2014, 3:01 am
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Keep it coming nice for people to see. I did mine around 4 years
ago and been fine ever since.
#Post#: 83623--------------------------------------------------
Re: Series 3 swivel refurb (picture heavy)
By: Dirty Girty Date: January 9, 2014, 4:54 am
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Excellent thread.....keep it coming....This is on my list of
jobs to do.....
#Post#: 83658--------------------------------------------------
Re: Series 3 swivel refurb (picture heavy)
By: Gortinagin Date: January 9, 2014, 1:09 pm
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Great thread - think I may have to replace my rusty balls
sometime soon so great to see whats involved.
#Post#: 83676--------------------------------------------------
Re: Series 3 swivel refurb (picture heavy)
By: DARKSIDE Date: January 9, 2014, 3:20 pm
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Whether it is because it was one of the first 'big' jobs I did
on a Land Rover or because I am sad I am unsure. I have to say
refurbing swivels is a job I love :giddy:
I reckon I have done about nine.
I only left the half shaft out when reassembled once.. :wanker:
Great write up …
#Post#: 83685--------------------------------------------------
Re: Series 3 swivel refurb (picture heavy)
By: samc88 Date: January 9, 2014, 5:30 pm
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Thanks for the good comments :) Glad to know its useful to
someone :)
@Darkside - yes, I quite like doing it (saying this now I bet
the other side is going to be a right twat to do, oh well so be
it) ;D
Update coming up once the pics have finished uploading :)
#Post#: 83687--------------------------------------------------
Re: Series 3 swivel refurb (picture heavy)
By: samc88 Date: January 9, 2014, 6:09 pm
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Right then in with the new swivel balls!
First off, I cleaned the new ones with white spirit as they were
covered in some type of grease. Then we proceeded to lubricate
the Railco bush with EP90 before pressing into the top of the
ball. Compared to the old one, this should be pressed until
flush with the outer edge of the ball (in the picture it needs
to go in further, as evidenced by the step). I can tell you this
is a lot of effort in a non-hydraulic arbor press :D
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1082073_zps702cd2e8.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1082073_zps702cd2e8.jpg[/img][/URL]
Next the lower bearing race was pressed in (again till flush).
Havent got a photo of this as I forgot to take one). The lower
bearing was lubricated with blue grease worked in.
Lastly the halfshaft bearing was pressed in. Before this though
it was given a good coat of blue grease which was worked into
the rollers.
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1082074_zps59bbc527.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1082074_zps59bbc527.jpg[/img][/URL]
Next the o-ring on the lower swivel pin was replaced and the pin
was fitted (the track rod arm points to the front of the vehicle
remember)
Once this was fitted, the upper swivel pin was fitted, using
first the same thickness of shims as the old ones
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1082075_zps06c0bdaf.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1082075_zps06c0bdaf.jpg[/img][/URL]
This was way too tight, so next was an hour or so of adding and
swapping shims until we got the pull force on the spring balance
just right (in the manual it states it should be between 8-10
lbs
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1082076_zps7225cd12.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1082076_zps7225cd12.jpg[/img][/URL]
Then the lock tabs were knocked up and the oil seal packed with
grease and dropped in place. (the retainer plate will be finally
fitted later as we will have to take it off anyway to fit the
gaiters
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1082077_zpsd1784f9f.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1082077_zpsd1784f9f.jpg[/img][/URL]
Before fitting the swivel housing back to the axle, it was
decided to replace the axle case oil seal (worth doing while
we've got it stripped down to this stage. The old seal was tight
to remove so a self tapper was screwed into the rubber and using
a claw hammer, the seal was easily pulled out.
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1082081_zpsfe620121.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1082081_zpsfe620121.jpg[/img][/URL]
when putting the new seal in place, the outer edge was given a
smear of hylomar
Here is a shot of the new seal in place as well as the axle
flange gasket (fitted with a good smear of hylomar).
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1082078_zpsb6bfb45a.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1082078_zpsb6bfb45a.jpg[/img][/URL]
Next the swivel housing was bolted on to the axle flange
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1082083_zps782f4752.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1082083_zps782f4752.jpg[/img][/URL]
Now onto tonights job,
First thing was to fit the track rod ends. As mentioned earlier
in the thread, the stud has a habit of turning when not pressed
into the taper, so this was held down with a g-clamp whilst the
nut was tightened on
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1010003_zpsf01d05eb.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1010003_zpsf01d05eb.jpg[/img][/URL]
Next was the turn of the halfshaft. As we put in a new bearing,
the inner race (which is pressed onto the halfshaft) was to be
replaced for the new one as a matter of principle. This meant
the collar also had to be replaced (as it is in front of the
bearing race)
To get the old ones off, they were cut into about three quarters
of the way through with the grinder, then using a cold chisel
and a hammer the job was finished off and they were loose on the
shaft.
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1010004_zpsb2eddc02.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1010004_zpsb2eddc02.jpg[/img][/URL]
To get the new parts on (bearing race first then collar with the
conical end facing away from the UJ), we got the blowlamp out
and warmed them up for a few minutes before sliding onto the
shaft. Result was a piece that slid nicely in place and once
cooled was fixed solid. We also did the same with the stub axle
collar
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1010005_zps73676082.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1010005_zps73676082.jpg[/img][/URL]
Once these were done, the halfshaft was slid into place with the
splines located in the diff (sounds easier than it is, the long
half shaft is a bit of a faff to get in), then the stub axle and
brake backplate were put on, the bolts having new locking
plates. There is a gasket between stub axle and swivel housing
(again fitted using hylomar)
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1012086_zps210f407c.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1012086_zps210f407c.jpg[/img][/URL]
The next job was the hub. This was all cleaned out and the old
bearings (in good condition) were repacked with grease
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1012084_zps82b5f13e.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1012084_zps82b5f13e.jpg[/img][/URL]
Next the oil seal was fitted. We put this to soak in EP90
yesterday overnight ready for fitting
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1012085_zpscb3f7791.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1012085_zpscb3f7791.jpg[/img][/URL]
This was slid onto the stub axle and the thrust washer and
adjustment nut were fitted. As we had painted the old wheel, the
spare was rolled in for the next bit. It was attached to the
wheel studs and by rocking the wheel and tightening or loosening
the nut, the amount of play was adjusted (you need a very small
bit so as not to over stress the bearings). using a dti its
about 4thou if i remember right from looking at the book, but we
dont have a dti so this was done by feel.
The locking washer and nut are then fitted and tightened and the
tab on the washer knocked over.
After this the flange gasket was fitted and then so was the FWH
driving flange (yes I'm actually keeping the things)
The bolts were torqued down to 28 lbs/ft
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1012088_zpsbe3523a1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1012088_zpsbe3523a1.jpg[/img][/URL]
Next the felt washer, washer, castle nut and split pin were
fitted and the recess where the FWH engages was given some
grease
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1012089_zpsccd4e9da.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1012089_zpsccd4e9da.jpg[/img][/URL]
Then the FWH was fitted. Worth remembering there are 3 roll pins
holding the spring on which must align with the corresponding
holes for the gear to fit. This was all given a grease prior to
fitting as it wont hurt to give it a bit of lubrication. Pushed
on, the spirolox plastic ring was fitted and finally the grub
screw.
[URL=
HTML http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/samclarke95/media/P1012091_zpsb1e4d624.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1360.photobucket.com/albums/r645/samclarke95/P1012091_zpsb1e4d624.jpg[/img][/URL]
Result after doing this is I now have a FWH which doesn't spin
360 (also had to file the groove in the plastic piece which
engages in the tabs inside the cap, this was because they had
worn so as it moved round, the taps were engaging in the groove
but then the plastic was jumping out_
Tomorrows jobs then, fit the gaiter, fill the swivel and replace
the drum and wheel and paint :)
#Post#: 83696--------------------------------------------------
Re: Series 3 swivel refurb (picture heavy)
By: NoelC Date: January 10, 2014, 5:09 am
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Really informative post, the only thing I'd add is when doing
this job you must press the Railko bus into the swivel (as you
have done). The first time I refurbed series swivels I used a
kingpin as a drift and it distorts them enough that the pre-load
is ridiculous. On the up side, after 5 years or so they freed up
nicely and 13 years later are still good. :-)
#Post#: 83697--------------------------------------------------
Re: Series 3 swivel refurb (picture heavy)
By: rangerovering Date: January 10, 2014, 5:42 am
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Wee trick I have learned doing swivels is to go a little bit
higher than the book value when using new bearings for the
preload - the bearing beds in and will be cock on the correct
figure rather than loosening off and needing adjusted again
#Post#: 83712--------------------------------------------------
Re: Series 3 swivel refurb (picture heavy)
By: Wooden Date: January 10, 2014, 10:43 am
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This is a great thread - thanks for taking the time and effort
to make it so comprehensive and include so many photographs.
When you've finished, this is definitely one for the Tech
Archive. :thumbs:
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