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#Post#: 63378--------------------------------------------------
Home made Waxoil
By: espacekiller Date: June 4, 2013, 7:25 pm
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Not mine i have just nicked it, thought i would stick it here as
it looks useful and informative, you could probably make your
own version with old engine oil?
TECHNICAL DATA SHEETS
Waxoil homebrew.doc PAGE 1 OF 1
20 April 2006
WAX OIL HOMEBREW
Introduction – This describes how to make your own Wax oil,
it’s a home brew that I think works better than the shop stuff,
you know the type, black or clear sold in Halfords and the like;
£20 for 5 litres. My stuff can be made from common or garden
ingredients, can be easily sprayed with a 99p leaf sprayer from
garden centres and will set into a gel.
When the weather is about 10 –15 °C is the best temperature to
spray it and will form a runny jelly like covering that eeks
it’s way into gaps, when things get hotter about 25°C it will go
softer and continue to creep in to all the places you want it to
and finally in the winter it will go quite ridged and resist all
that horrible stuff winter can throw up. The commercial stuff;
I’ve found, sprays on and sets after a year and is quite thick,
doesn’t creep into the gaps and cracks when it gets old.
The Ingredients – You will need: -
• An old oil container to store it in.
• 2 Kg of the cheapest candles you can get (Wilko or Lidls etc)
• 2 Litres of White sprit
• 0.5 Litres of paraffin oil (the stuff that goes into these
little ornamental oil lamps). Very
cheap engine oil can be used, the cheaper the better as it will
have less additives in it.
The Recipe - Break the candles up into the smallest bits you
can and then tip them into the white sprit, put the cap on and
put it in the airing cupboard, or somewhere where the
temperature will stay around 25°C. These will slowly dissolve
over a period of about 2 weeks and it helps to give the mix a
good shake every day or so.
After two weeks most of the candles will have gone into the
white spirit and will leave it a thicker milky colour. Now tip
the paraffin oil (or engine oil) into your container followed by
the liquid part of the white spirit/candle mix; keep the solids
out or it will block your sprayer when you use it.
That’s it, just spray away and it should cost you about £2 for
5 litres, to make more just adjust the volumes, but keep the
ratios the same.
The Application - Warm up the mix so any wax that came out of
solution will re-dissolve,
then direct the sprayer into the gaps, voids or surfaces. It
will form a gel when it hits the
bodywork but it will creep and once the temperature rises a
little this will run and creep
everywhere. It is especially good in panels like bonnets, doors
and boots, you can see the stuff running along and filling the
seams.
The Theory - The white sprit has leeching properties, in other
words it will creep over any surface it touches, it will not
bead like water on a ducks back. The white sprit will creep into
gaps and seams and carry the dissolved wax and oil with it, over
about a week the white sprit will evaporate leaving behind the
wax which will now be solidifying, it will not harden back into
candle form because the paraffin oil (engine oil) will keep it
liquid, although a thick liquid. If the mix is damaged by say a
stone thrown up, then the mix will continue to creep and cover
up the hole left by the stone impact.
#Post#: 63379--------------------------------------------------
Re: Home made Waxoil
By: Drew Date: June 4, 2013, 11:55 pm
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That solution...I like. The addition of wax makes top sense.
I've usually just mixed old engine/gear/whatever oils and
sprayed that in to the chassis.
Thing is, Killer, how long would/ does it last under the bonnet
you mention? Does it not just obey Newton and drop on your
engine unde the heat of it?
#Post#: 63415--------------------------------------------------
Re: Home made Waxoil
By: espacekiller Date: June 5, 2013, 7:55 am
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Thing is it is not mine, i just nicked from the Mig welding
forum so i have no in depth knowledge of the recipie, I know a
few people who use old engine oil so thought the addition of the
wax to this kind of makes sense, and has to be better than just
the oil.
I can imagine in an engine bay it will become runny again, but
that may not be a bad thing.
Also interesting to read about thinning with white spirit to
make it easier to spray through a "cavity probe" and the fact
the white spirit evaporates away leaving the sticky residue
behind, i will be doing this shortly.
#Post#: 63417--------------------------------------------------
Re: Home made Waxoil
By: Snailer Date: June 5, 2013, 9:03 am
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[quote author=espacekiller link=topic=5734.msg63415#msg63415
date=1370436914]
Thing is it is not mine, i just nicked from the Mig welding
forum so i have no in depth knowledge of the recipie, I know a
few people who use old engine oil so thought the addition of the
wax to this kind of makes sense, and has to be better than just
the oil.
I can imagine in an engine bay it will become runny again, but
that may not be a bad thing.
Also interesting to read about thinning with white spirit to
make it easier to spray through a "cavity probe" and the fact
the white spirit evaporates away leaving the sticky residue
behind, i will be doing this shortly.
[/quote]
on a related note, I was told to use motorcycle chain oil as a
protector for the leaf springs, it apparently works its way into
the springs as good as anything.
#Post#: 63419--------------------------------------------------
Re: Home made Waxoil
By: quattrofoto Date: June 5, 2013, 9:24 am
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Chain oil lubricates the springs beautifully. However it eats
spring eye bushes. I wouldn't recommend it for that reason.
#Post#: 63420--------------------------------------------------
Re: Home made Waxoil
By: RMS Date: June 5, 2013, 9:35 am
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Has anyone found a sprayer (air line driven) which can handle a
long probe (chassis length)?
I use a Schultz gun, refilling the original cartridges with a
mixture of Waxoyl or Tetroseal, or even Schultz! (basically
whatever I've got in the shed from years ago) and old engine
oil, and thinned with white spirit if needed. However, as it is
a venturi gun (the air blows over the top of the tube to draw up
the mixture), if you try to extend the short tube it blows the
air into the canister and you get the mixture coming out of the
breather in the gun, all over your hand :haha:
I understand there are other guns which compress the canister
and force the fluid out of the nozzle - that's what I think I
need, then I can push the probe in at the back, all the way to
the front; pull the trigger and walk slowly backwards.
Much easier and probably more effective than pushing the short
pipe into holes along the chassis rails.
So, does anyone have a gun that can do that?
Cheers,
Robin.
#Post#: 63466--------------------------------------------------
Re: Home made Waxoil
By: drumlisden Date: June 5, 2013, 4:28 pm
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Not air line driven, but I was thinking about adapting a weed
killer sprayer that you pump up.
#Post#: 63473--------------------------------------------------
Re: Home made Waxoil
By: espacekiller Date: June 5, 2013, 6:13 pm
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Robin Could you try remove the pick up pipe and use the gun
upside down so it gravity feeds?
#Post#: 63479--------------------------------------------------
Re: Home made Waxoil
By: Snailer Date: June 6, 2013, 2:21 am
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[quote author=quattrofoto link=topic=5734.msg63419#msg63419
date=1370442277]
Chain oil lubricates the springs beautifully. However it eats
spring eye bushes. I wouldn't recommend it for that reason.
[/quote]
thanks for that advice, I will use alternative products.
#Post#: 63510--------------------------------------------------
Re: Home made Waxoil
By: Bert the Bodger Date: June 6, 2013, 11:32 am
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I too use a Schultz gun. (Or did until last year!) I found it
beneficial to enlarge the breather hole by drilling it out.
Without this mod high pressure was prone to collapsing the can
and splitting the seem... Obviously the enlarged breather makes
inverted use a bit of a no no. The other important factor is to
have the mixture (standard waxoyl) good and hot-the waxoyl can
stood in boiling water for a while turns a solid can extremely
runny, which, when blasted reaches a good long way.
Richard
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