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#Post#: 59000--------------------------------------------------
Re: bomb-proof
DIR By: Lucy
Date: April 28, 2013, 4:19 am
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Another point, if you can, avoid a roof rack. They raise he
centre of gravity, increase stress on the bodywork and are them
magnets. We met folks who'd had their roof tent slashed by
thieves trying to see what was in there.
Consider taking a trailer, it reduces the load on the tow
vehicles suspension, can be unhitched if you get stuck and
dragged out once the vehicle is unstuck and avoids the need for
a roof rack. I'm sure it'd be a PITA to start with but you'd
soon get used to it being there.
#Post#: 59269--------------------------------------------------
Re: bomb-proof
DIR By: EricWS
Date: April 29, 2013, 2:38 pm
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I do not know how lockers would complicate things. I would
suggest ARBs for true lockers. For LSD I would go Tru Tracs or
Quaiffes. I would update teh axles to HD units from ROAM.com.
Wheels as well.
I would add a winch as well. Warn 8724 is your best bet.
All of the above worked in MOAD, Colorado, etc...
#Post#: 59276--------------------------------------------------
Re: bomb-proof
DIR By: pesto
Date: April 29, 2013, 3:23 pm
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Thank you all for your qualified comments!
It seems it makes sense to go for stock components with some
alterations. To be honest, that is what I had in mind but there
are always new thoughts which are complicating the decision
making.
In short keywords:
1) exchange dynamo with alternator
2) install second battery and spit charge system
3) overhaul gearbox and transfer box (to be ran in combination
with Roverdrive)
4) new 2.5 N/A Diesel cylinder head to complement the overhauled
engine block (new oil pump, water pump...)
5) injection pump overhaul
6) new radiator (the old one got repaired in Istanbul by
exchanging the combs)
7) exchange the Rover axle by a Salisbury axle
@ Lucy: You are right, it may be worth thinking of reducingt the
roof weight. But I'm a fan of sleeping on the roof. The idea of
using a trailer is good. In Australia it is pretty common. But I
don't see the point of how to avoid curious people. A kind of
tent on the trailer would be the same thing, what do you think?
Maybe I missunderstood...
@ Doug_T: What do you think of dune driving with the 2.5N/A
Diesel engine? Have you had a change to drive a comparable
vehicle?
Hope the discussion will be continued!
#Post#: 59279--------------------------------------------------
Re: bomb-proof
DIR By: Nonimouse
Date: April 29, 2013, 3:44 pm
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Keep it simple is always the first rule of overland
Keep it reliable is the second
Keep it disposable is the third
I appreciate Lucy's suggestion about the trailer, but a trailer
merely sounds like a good idea, in practicality it becomes a
complete PITA as soon as you leave reasonable roads
Avoid the 8274 like the plague, it's weight alone is a liability
- if you have to have an electric winch then look at a TDS 9500
- low weight, huge power for low current draw, waterproof and
very, very reliable. Better to pack a Tirfor T1500 and a decent
ground anchor - like a PRT
The low power, relatively low revving 2.5NAD in a 109 does not
make a good dune basher, but coupled with the Series drive train
gearing makes for a suprisingly good vehicle in the small dunes!
Don't fit 7.50's - go 235/85x16 on modulars - better lock,
better offset. Less need to run low pressures. Run tubless but
take tubes with you to fit when you have really messed up a
tyre.
Don't use dedicated sand tyres - there's not that much sand in a
desert! I would suggest the new Continental Cross Contact as
being the dogs bollox for 'all terrain' and you can find 'take
offs' from new defenders for good money
#Post#: 59282--------------------------------------------------
Re: bomb-proof
DIR By: Lucy
Date: April 29, 2013, 3:50 pm
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Not much you can do with a roof tent, I can understand why you
use one. I was thinking trailer, more for carrying kit, to make
room in the vehicle.
As for lockers, you really don't need them. It's much simpler to
swap a standard did than one with a locker. On that note,
balance the increased difficulty of swapping a Salisbury diff
with the decreased risk of needing to change it.
What's it like swapping half shafts in a Salisbury when hey
break at the diff end?
#Post#: 59283--------------------------------------------------
Re: bomb-proof
DIR By: pesto
Date: April 29, 2013, 3:58 pm
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I forgot one thing!
The brake system needs an update. I've the dual brake system of
the series 3 mounted but I'm very unhappy with the current
effect. I think I'll stay with drum brakes but I'm thinking of
upgrading the servo unit to a bigger one. This should give more
brake power mainly for safety reasons. By going backwards I feel
lack of brake effect. Is there something I can do?
The handbrake works normally as intended until the transfer box
is starting to leak. Would it be worth going for a disc brake
conversion? I don't feel very confident, staying on a decent
hill, knowing that the handbrake doesn't work as well as knowing
that the foot brake doesn't work proper rearwards.
#Post#: 59284--------------------------------------------------
Re: bomb-proof
DIR By: parksy64
Date: April 29, 2013, 3:59 pm
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Roof tent on the trailer would be my option in that case
:thumbs:
HTML http://www.jeepexpeditions.org/images/equipment_reviews/canadian_m101_m416_trailers_05.gif
HTML http://www.jeepexpeditions.org/images/equipment_reviews/canadian_m101_m416_trailers_04.gif
In the long term i would like to do that with my Sankey wide
track/ Hi-cap tub trailer >rock<
#Post#: 59321--------------------------------------------------
Re: bomb-proof
DIR By: NoelC
Date: April 30, 2013, 3:41 am
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Pesto, one option engine-wise that's not been mentioned is a Di
- i.e. installing the Tdi engine without the turbo. Can't say
I've experienced one but there's plenty of info here:
HTML http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/200di.htm
HTML http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/200di.htm.
I can only guess the power
would be slightly higher than a 2.5 N/A and fuel economy should
be noticeably better being direct injection.
Stopping the transfer box leaking would be a good plan ;-)
however the disc handbrake conversion isn't expensive for a
series, again I've not tried one but would certainly consider
it.
There was much discussion over on the forward control forum
about drum brakes and the consensus there, which makes sense, is
asbestos-free linings are less efficient than the modern
tree-hugging equivalent so the theory is they'll never be as
good now as they were in the 1960s and 1970s no matter what you
do. Most of the time this isn't an issue but with a 109 loaded
to the limit it's understandable people want better, especially
with modern cars stopping on a sixpence (usually after cutting
you up). The easiest, cheapest thing to do would be upgrade the
front drums to the larger six cylinder/stage one V8 type. To my
mind if you were to consider discs the only conversions worth
looking at are the ones where standard Defender discs and
calipers can be used, my money would be on the Timm Cooper all
four corners approach -
HTML http://www.roamoffroad.com
HTML http://www.roamoffroad.com
. The cost is £1225 plus you have to
buy the calipers etc separatey. For that money you'd have to
really want it.
#Post#: 59324--------------------------------------------------
Re: bomb-proof
DIR By: Arjan
Date: April 30, 2013, 3:57 am
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Handbrake conversion - maybe, we have no real problems with ours
and park a lot on steep hils..
We have these on the Hybrid on all 4 corners :
[URL=
HTML http://s178.photobucket.com/user/wilderbrook/media/DBP06LongerStudsneededslightmodification.jpg.html][IMG]http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w262/wilderbrook/DBP06LongerStudsneededslightmodification.jpg[/img][/URL]
Fits perfectly, standard brake pads, no mods to anything and
straight efficient braking all the time.
And yes, 30 mm spacers.
#Post#: 59342--------------------------------------------------
Re: bomb-proof
DIR By: Lucy
Date: April 30, 2013, 7:26 am
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We dorve around the place with a couple of African Handbrakes in
the passenger footwell (big lump of wood) Still there in fact
and still effective; also useful for levelling the truck up to
sleep in.
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