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#Post#: 58652--------------------------------------------------
Re: bomb-proof
DIR By: pesto
Date: April 25, 2013, 2:38 pm
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--- Quote from: NoelC link ---
>
> Welcome Pesto. Your trip sounds interesting and the 109 looks
great.
>
> If I were doing this and looking for some sensible upgrades
I'd be going for the following:
>
> 1) Alternator and split charge setup as Parksy says.
> 2) Ashcroft 5 speed conversion mating an R380 5 speed main box
to series transfer box therefore keeping selectable 2 and 4
wheel drive eliminating the permanent 4x4 issue of the LT230.
> 3) Salisbury* rear axle to deal with the extra torque and
power of..
> 4) 300Tdi engine. With the Ashcroft conversion the engine
needs moving forwards by 102mm to keep the propshafts standard,
if you're doing that you might as well move the mounts to the
correct place for the 300Tdi. As the 300Tdi was the ROW export
spec lump for 15 years plus parts would arguably be easier to
find than for any other power unit.
>
> *It'd be worth seeking out a Salisbury axle from a stage one
V8 for the higher 3.54:1 diff ratio, then fit an early "Engine
donor" or Range Rover front diff to match the ratios. If you
have the money to spend then you won't go far wrong with a
Detroit Truetrac or Detroit Locker to maximise available
traction, they're a purely mechanical fully automatic locking
system for the diff.
>
>
>
>
--- End Quote ---
Hi NoelC,
Do you think the 300tdi will fit the series IIa front together
with the R380 (102mm further forward)? Keep in mind that it is a
LHD vehicle and will probably have a problem with the turbo (if
not going for a Defender engine). I'm still trying to understand
the scale of modifications needed on bulkheat, frame and so on.
What are the advantages with a R380 gearbox beside being able to
handle the higher torque and the 5th gear? More quiet? Long
lasting? Less leakage?
I saw a thread describing that the R380 transferbox can be used
after a small modification (4wd selectable). What is the
drawback with this formation - does it build even longer?
Is the Salisbury axel with 3.54:1 diff ratio the best joice
together with the 300TDI? I had a ratio kit mounted before I
went for a Roverdrive and that was completely nonsense. Some
hills I could only manage by shifting down to 1st gear (wiht the
2.5 N/A diesel).
#Post#: 58657--------------------------------------------------
Re: bomb-proof
DIR By: mr.scruff
Date: April 25, 2013, 2:51 pm
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Noel's list is excellent, but personally, I would stick with
what you have, but give it a good through overhaul. Probably fit
the Salisbury for the reasons you describe. But then I have only
monged around Europe rather than done a proper overland trip.
An 2.5 NAD is about the most simple diesel engine there is,
anyone in the world who knows how a diesel works will be able to
fix it, but a properly overhauled one with genuine or OEM
quality parts should last a very long time. If you are worried
about the head consider a Turner replacement; the gas flowed
ones make a great difference without overwhelming the rest of
the vehicle. The same with the gearbox; a 2a gearbox is a tough
thing which can last for decades, though I agree getting good
quality parts is these days a problem. :lousyputer:
Fab looking Land Rover by the way
#Post#: 58679--------------------------------------------------
Re: bomb-proof
DIR By: NoelC
Date: April 25, 2013, 3:59 pm
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You make a good point Pesto, being a left hooker from what I've
read the 300 and ex-Disco 200 turbo fouls the steering gear.
You'd need a 200 from a Defender which are somewhat rarer at
sensible money unfortunately.
There is a kit available to make an LT230 transfer box
selectable but I'm not sure what advantage that gives. The
series transfer box is as tough as old boots, really the mainbox
is the only weakpoint. From my perspective owning both Fairey
overdrives on the 109 hardtop and 109 ambulance and a Rocky
Mountain Roverdrive on the 88 I can't say hand-on-heart they're
the best solution. They work however the extra power of a Tdi
would find the weakpoints in the transmission however they
should be fine with a standard engine.
Kev makes a lot of sense TBH, I think the key question is do you
feel the 109 is lacking in power to the point you would not want
to make/enjoy the trip. If not then keeping the 2.5NAD would
save a lot of work.
#Post#: 58683--------------------------------------------------
Re: bomb-proof
DIR By: NoelC
Date: April 25, 2013, 4:01 pm
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Oh, and while I think of it, I'd try and keep an engine driven
fan rather than a Kenlowe if possible. I did have an
enlightening conversation with a rather well known Land Rover
engine reconditioner some years back who told me he loved
electric fans as they generated him so much work...
#Post#: 58693--------------------------------------------------
Re: bomb-proof
DIR By: Lucy
Date: April 25, 2013, 4:38 pm
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Sounds good, there's certainly plenty to see, we went down the
east coast to Kenya, did a loop in to Uganda around lake
Victoria then down through Malawi and across to the west coast,
finishing in cape town. That was 10 years ago this year though.
We didn't do much to our truck modification wise, it was all
really just to make it a comfortable living environment.
If I was doing it in a series motor, well any motor really, I
would concentrate on dust proofing the rear door. We made a zip
up fabric inner door to the back of the 101 when we went to
Morocco in 2007, made such a difference as the back stayed dust
free, whereas the others had a cleaning on each evening.
I'd seriously think about where you will store your spare
wheels, take 2 of them, don't even contemplate putting one on
the back door. Ideally it wants mounting on a shock absorbing
swing away carrier mounted to the rear cross member so that no
load is passed to the body work, IT WILL RIP otherwise.
Having travelled in oz, I'm sure you've experienced the joys of
corrugations so know what they put a vehicle through.
Make sure all your suspension components are up to scratch, and
carry a decent compressor so you can let your tyres down to
absorb some of the punishment.
What's been said about electric fans is true, think about it...
Viscous fan saps about 4hp, to get that much power from a 12v
motor you're looking at it drawing circa 250amps, that's not
going to happen.
Split charge systems can be simple, I replaced the knackered
split charge diode on the 101 with a 100A relay triggered by the
charge light circuit. It means they're both being charged at the
same time, but are isolated when the engine isn't running. I
have a switched link between them to allow me to start off both
if needed. Simple, cheap and it works.
#Post#: 58696--------------------------------------------------
Re: bomb-proof
DIR By: parksy64
Date: April 25, 2013, 4:49 pm
---------------------------------------------------------
--- Quote from: pesto link ---
>
> [quote author=parksy64 link=topic=5331.msg58521#msg58521
date=1366836501]
> Definitely go for alternator and split charge battery set up
:thumbs:
>
--- End Quote ---
Hi parksy64,
Which alternator conversation do you recommend? What is your
preferred split charge brand?
[/quote]
I would just go for a standard Series 3 alternator.
Split charge kit from here (as all their kit is good!):
HTML http://www.autosparks.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=5245
#Post#: 58857--------------------------------------------------
Re: bomb-proof
DIR By: pesto
Date: April 27, 2013, 7:34 am
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Thanks PARKSY for the split charge recommendation!
What makes the Series 3 alternator practical? What is the
difference?
#Post#: 58972--------------------------------------------------
Re: bomb-proof
DIR By: NoelC
Date: April 27, 2013, 6:31 pm
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Anything before the series 3 was dynamo as standard, the
optional alternator (or AC Generator as Land Rover called it)
for 2a models was a bit of a thing, came in two parts like a
dynamo and regulator and is as rare as rocking horse shit.
#Post#: 58980--------------------------------------------------
Re: bomb-proof
DIR By: Drew
Date: April 28, 2013, 2:32 am
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You've been given much wisdom here, Pesto - a great deal, by
some who have done what you're planning and others who would
know how to if opportunity arose.
There are sensible, helpful mods suggested; the R380, the split
charge and the Salisbury, two of which getting good working
examples of for the trip will kick the arse out of your budget
(although they would get you there and back without problem,
such is their robustness).
But, were I embarking on the trip, and having such a spare rear
axle at my disposal (an axle which was common on later 109"s for
reasons of strength), that and the alternator/split-charge are
the only alterations I'd make, as the one thing I've always
thought is that Land-Rover built these vehicles with such trips
in mind...it was part of their purpose; and it's better minds
than ours which designed them.
Just smarten-up what you have to tip-top mechanical standards,
load-up with a few sensible spares, gaskets and a tube of
Hylomar, a service kit or two...and set off.
That's about the best way you could prove that the old kit can
still do it....indeed, was the pioneer in doing it.
#Post#: 58988--------------------------------------------------
Re: bomb-proof
DIR By: Doug_T
Date: April 28, 2013, 3:19 am
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Very wise words on this thread.
My twopennyworth, from working in deserts, jungles etc. for
several years now is this: the vehicles I've seen get into
trouble the most are the vehicles that are seen to be "bomb
proof" and rugged. Not that they have broken, but more because
the drivers are more willing to take risks if they think the
vehicle is up to the task.
I've just finished a big exploration project down in Southern
Morocco / Western Sahara; we were always getting the
Landcruisers in trouble, simply because they would go further
into the "oh s**t" places than the other vehicles we were using.
Sent them back in the end, saving a bit of money too!
Salisbury axle, good electrics and a tip-top standard gearbox is
what I'd be considering to start with.
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