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#Post#: 42346--------------------------------------------------
Brake bleeding, tls and the rog method?
DIR By: NUGGETT
Date: November 13, 2012, 1:26 pm
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It seems to me now that the method of clamping the brake wheel
cylinders is at best a pain in the arse, time consuming and as
far as the rears go, impossible.
Since i achieved excellent brakes when i first got niab back on
the road it would appear that 'new' rear cyls won't bleed when
clamped up, and it's a brave/foolish man who stamps the pedal
with them losely clamped.
discuss! ???
#Post#: 42398--------------------------------------------------
Re: Brake bleeding, tls and the rog method?
DIR By: GlenAnderson
Date: November 13, 2012, 4:47 pm
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In all my years of mucking about with Land-Rovers I've never
ever had an issue with brake bleeding, or getting a firm pedal.
I have had faulty parts, and ones that lasted a disappointingly
short time, but whenever I've done the job it's just worked. I
simply cannot understand how so many people struggle with them.
On such occasions I've been called to assist others, generally
the problem has lain in their competency, rather than poor
design from Solihull.
>tnking<
#Post#: 42405--------------------------------------------------
Re: Brake bleeding, tls and the rog method?
DIR By: espacekiller
Date: November 13, 2012, 7:06 pm
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The biggest issue I have had with bleeding brakes is fittting
lots of new empty parts with no fluid in. IE too much air which
squashes up too easily so you don't push through the new fluid
you just squash up the air with each pump.
I find filling new cylinders, pipes etc as much as you can at
least helps when you start to bleed as you actually get some
fluid through the system, possibly a bit of a waste of fluid but
it seems to work for me, hope this helps.
Just reread your post and understand what you are saying now,
the above is probably not relevant, interested why do you need
to clamp the cylinder up to bleed them? Can't you just fit the
drums and then bleed them?
#Post#: 42437--------------------------------------------------
Re: Brake bleeding, tls and the rog method?
DIR By: NUGGETT
Date: November 14, 2012, 12:11 pm
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The 'clamping method' hasn't been transfered over from the old
site ( i don't think) ;
but basically involved clamping all the cylinders up , an
easibleed and some fairly hefty stamping of the pedal ( to shock
the air out of the system)
#Post#: 42473--------------------------------------------------
Re: Brake bleeding, tls and the rog method?
DIR By: espacekiller
Date: November 14, 2012, 4:23 pm
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Hmm kind of makes sense, i assume it is to disslodge any air
bubbles.
#Post#: 42542--------------------------------------------------
Re: Brake bleeding, tls and the rog method?
DIR By: wilkobob
Date: November 15, 2012, 3:24 pm
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Since being advise on the old forum about bleeding brakes, the
following method has worked for me (with 109 brakes too) , which
is a 2 man (or woman) way.
Raise front of vehicle slightly, have one person vigorously pump
the pedal to move the air and fluid around, then just bleed up
in order of longest run first, shortest last, and repeat a few
times. Clamping has never worked successfully for me, neither
have ezibleed things or self bleeding kits. Duff components have
caused problems no end of times, usually with britpart branding.
The trick I think is the vigorous pumping to release the trapped
air.
#Post#: 42602--------------------------------------------------
Re: Brake bleeding, tls and the rog method?
DIR By: smackitwithanammer
Date: November 16, 2012, 9:12 am
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The inner tube method works like a treat and takes moment. I
changes some line and all flexis in mine so had loads of air
with some lines still full. Just chop a bike inner tube and tie
a knot in one end, and put the other end round the top of the
bean can (with a bit string) and put a few pumps of air into the
valve on the inner tube. Open up the nipples all round and sit
back. Takes five minutes, need no helpers and you have to fag
around jacking or pumping.
Just remember to fill the bean can up...
#Post#: 42743--------------------------------------------------
Re: Brake bleeding, tls and the rog method?
DIR By: lodger
Date: November 17, 2012, 1:52 pm
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Smackers - tell us more, how does the inner tube bit work?
#Post#: 42745--------------------------------------------------
Re: Brake bleeding, tls and the rog method?
DIR By: ashcrroft752
Date: November 17, 2012, 2:03 pm
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What's the correct bleed sequence for TLS? The Haynes manual and
the Autobooks says nearest to the master cylinder first, but
looking on my PDF Land Rover manual it seems I've spent most of
today bleeding back to front, no air bubbles left but this may
be why it took me so long.
How should the wheel cylinders be orientated on the back plate?
One at the top and bottom or Both horizontal? Would this make
any difference to bleeding?
#Post#: 42813--------------------------------------------------
Re: Brake bleeding, tls and the rog method?
DIR By: smackitwithanammer
Date: November 18, 2012, 11:06 am
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The inner tube is to get air pressure to push the fluid from the
bean can down through the lines to the slaves. Just chop it and
tie a not in one open end. The other goes over the bean can. Get
a bike pump on the valve and give it a couple of pumps and away
it goes.
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