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#Post#: 2355--------------------------------------------------
Fitting a Detroit locker into the rear axle on a 101
By: chally2 Date: January 9, 2012, 10:32 am
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Fitting a Detroit locker into the rear axle on a Land Rover 101
1.
2.
apportioning valve.
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3.
and on what side they go.
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4.
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5.
the correct holes.
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6.
diff without a spreader. Well I didn't take any photos as I was
struggling but it can be done. I did it be getting two longish
pipes/bars whatever and levering it out.
HTML http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i422/robinchallacombe/rear%20diff/bars2.jpg
This is roughly where the bars went. Some times on the other
side. At first you think It's not coming out because in the
back of your head you know you should be using a spreader, but
then you hit a sweet spot and it moves a smidge. Then you will
work out how to get it out. By the time I finished my front one
it was coming in and out no problem. I would advise having a
mate because it is heavy when it comes out and you don't want it
landing on you head.
7.
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Now the casing needs a good clean out.
8.
If you use a ratchet or spanner then you will have to hold on to
the diff tightly to stop it turning. The most difficult part
was the removal of the bearings. You do need to remove them to
take the diff apart.
There are only 2 points were a bearing puller can locate and I
had to grind mine down to fit. Because it locates onto the
shims there isn't much grip. Eventually I took off the outer
race, heated the inner one up with oxy acetylene and removed it
but even then it was hard work. It may be easier to cutting off
if you don't have a torch or trying to use a bearing splitter.
That's what I will try next time.
Remember not mix the shims when you do get it off and keep them
separate so you know what side they go back on. I had spare
shims. As some were damaged, I swapped like for like.
Once you have undone it, clean it out and remove the inner
gubbings. The inner spacers are no long needed.
HTML http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i422/robinchallacombe/rear%20diff/IMG_0193.jpg
9.
Place it in the right way round but don't undo the butterfly nut
yet.
HTML http://i1093.photobucket.com/albums/i422/robinchallacombe/rear%20diff/IMG_0194.jpg
Ironically I went to a lot of effort to get side gears for my
broken front diff, but the rear side gears are no longer needed.
Refit the other half (use lock tight stud grade) I did it up
using a windy gun because I didn't have any one or thing to hold
onto it as I did the bolts up. Fit shims to correct side and
place on new bearings. I used a press but tapping on with the
old bearings should work. Now you can undo the butterfly nut.
10.
Well again I thought it's not going back in and I started to
despair. But have confidence, there are little knacks to get it
back in.
It's very awkward especially with the outer bearing races
wanting to do their own thing.
First get comfortable have a large screwdriver, nylon hammer the
two bearing shell caps ready to go on the right side, ratchet at
the ready.
After you had your wheatabix, you need to raise the diff and
roughly place it into the case. It will go in a little low.
Get your large screwdriver and raise the diff and you should get
a reassuring clunk as it semi locates. Get your nylon hammer,
and tap on both sides until you can get the bearing caps on and
the 4 bolts locate into their holes, slowly do up a couple of
flats at a time evenly. Eventually it goes all the way home.
Lovely.
11.
bearing cap bolts apply lock tight stud grade and torque up.
(Please note really you should be doing the back lash test and
double checking your diff is in the right place reference to the
pinion. The easiest way is to check the load pattern using
engineers blue. I didn't do it for this one but will be doing
it for the front as that is a total ring and pinion
replacement,)
12.
with copper slip.
13.
14.
stated in the manual
15.
16.
Tools used
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