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#Post#: 35468--------------------------------------------------
Re: Atrocious road holding in the wet: mixed tyres?
DIR By: Goose
Date: August 30, 2012, 2:29 am
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If it veers to the right when you accelerate and veers to the
lefton overrun, then something is deeply wrong with your rear
axle. I.e. it's not attached very well! As above, i'd be going
over all the U-bolts and checking the spring and chassis bushes.
#Post#: 35469--------------------------------------------------
Re: Atrocious road holding in the wet: mixed tyres?
DIR By: ProDave
Date: August 30, 2012, 3:18 am
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Some more findings:
I've had a good look underneath.
All springs look fine. no signs of cracks. Bushes at the end of
the springs look fine (I can't provoke any movement with a
crowbar) and chassis is fine (I would be mighty annoyed if it
wasn't as it's a recent galv chassis)
BUT when it came to the U bolts, those on the rear offside were
quite loose so I have tightened them. The other 3 sets were all
tight.
I'll take it for another short run and see if that's fixed it's
tendency to veer off when you come off the power.
Another question though. On the bottom plate under each spring,
as well as the 4 nuts from the 2 big U bolts that strap the axle
on, there's also a threaded stud coming down through the middle
of the plate. Is this the "pin" referred to above? it looks to
be coming down through a hole in the stack of springs.
This stud does NOT have a nut on it on any of the 4 axle /
spring joints. Should there be a nut on it?
Also I've checked the steering, and the first joint the one that
joins the end of the steering box arm to the first rod off to
the nearside front wheel, has a lot of play in it so that needs
replacing. that will hopefully account for the huge amount of
play in the steering.
Anyone care to help me out with the part number for that joint
so I can order the right part?
Again I'm surprised at these findings as the car came to me with
an MOT. Surely that steering joint would (should?) have been an
MOT failure?
Thanks again for all your help.
#Post#: 35474--------------------------------------------------
Re: Atrocious road holding in the wet: mixed tyres?
DIR By: Roveerman
Date: August 30, 2012, 6:04 am
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Why are you surprised that a land rover with a current mot has
faults? The usual state of affairs is to work like buggery to
get it ready for the mot for it to fail on something you missed,
fix that, retest and pass only for something else to need doing
on the way home.
Mot's are a snap shot of the viehical at that moment in time, I
service fork lift trucks and they have something like a mot
covered under Lola and puwer regs of the health and safety act.
This states that when I inspect the part not only has to be safe
and serviceable now but also in either six or twelve months
time. If some one was injured or killed it would be my arse on
the line when the HSE came calling.
Stop worrying about the mot till its time for the next one.
P.s. I subscribe to regular servicing and constant maintance to
keep on top of things, these are not new (unless it's had a full
rebuild with EVERYTHING replaced) and will need more work to
keep going.
#Post#: 35486--------------------------------------------------
Re: Atrocious road holding in the wet: mixed tyres?
DIR By: NoelC
Date: August 30, 2012, 8:36 am
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^^^ exactly.
I got a pass on my 109 this week and one of the steering joints
on that is totally fucked (from the relay drop arm to the rod).
I didn't realise initially and only ordered a rubber boot (as it
was split that now constitutes a fail). Just 'cos something is
fucked doesn't automatically mean it's dangerous and doesn't
mean it should fail - I packed it with grease and when presented
for test it was working as it should, however I won't vouch for
that in a few weeks time, it'll probably have siezed up again.
The threaded rod I think you are referring to replaces the
locating pin so shouldn't have anything on it.
#Post#: 35500--------------------------------------------------
Re: Atrocious road holding in the wet: mixed tyres?
DIR By: Albert Ross
Date: August 30, 2012, 1:17 pm
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Referring to your question for part numbers.... There are LHT,
RHT, tall and short types, and also shouldered and fully
threaded.... So possibly 6 different part numbers. You'll need
to know what bars are fitted (Early or late), and which thread
(left or right), and also if it's the tall or short type. IIRC
the tall type can only be for early bars, but I may be wrong. If
heights and drop arms are mismatched, they can foul springs and
chassis rails. If rods and incorrect type threads are
mismatched, then they can pull apart, and that's not good.
#Post#: 35508--------------------------------------------------
Re: Atrocious road holding in the wet: mixed tyres?
DIR By: ProDave
Date: August 30, 2012, 2:43 pm
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Just to be clear, the joint that has failed if the one that
joins the lower relay arm to the drag link.
I phoned the autoparts place in the local town and they are
getting me one for tomorrow, and from what they say, cheaper
than I could find on ebay. I hope the have the old one removed
tomorrow morning to take with me to ensure the replacement is
the right thing.
I chickened out of taking mr Noisy for a run again today, the
amount of play in this joint is shocking, to the point it
surprised me the drag link hasn't simply come detached. so I'll
wait until this joint is replaced before doing further road
tests.
#Post#: 35514--------------------------------------------------
Re: Atrocious road holding in the wet: mixed tyres?
DIR By: Albert Ross
Date: August 30, 2012, 3:43 pm
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Just to be even clearer, which way round is it? Is the left hand
thread joint on the left or the right hand side? Has it been
swapped for an earlier of later one? Does the rod have the right
TRE type in it, or is it a mismatch? That's what I was getting
at. I know of people that once they have restored their steering
components, paint the left hand thread side of each rod LIME
green. and the right hand thread side of each rod RED. So they
know at a glance which way it fits, and also which thread end to
buy.
#Post#: 35561--------------------------------------------------
Re: Atrocious road holding in the wet: mixed tyres?
DIR By: ProDave
Date: August 31, 2012, 3:41 am
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Okay I've just removed the buggered one.
It's a normal right hand thread.
As to whether it's the right type or not, I haven't got a clue.
All I know is it fits.
Looking at it, it would appear to me that the track rod and the
drag link both use the same ends. Is that right? If so there
would only be two part numbers, a left and right handed thread
for the two ends of each rod.
The guy in my local parts shop has ordered the part from his
catalogue. He didn't say if it was left or right hand thread.
Of course it will only be correct to the parts catalogue if the
drag link has been put on the correct way. It's perfectly
possible that the drag link could be the wrong way round with
the left and right threaded ones at the "wrong" end.
I'll find out later today, or tomorrow morning when I collect
the new one.
#Post#: 35579--------------------------------------------------
Re: Atrocious road holding in the wet: mixed tyres?
DIR By: rbrtcrowther
Date: August 31, 2012, 6:55 am
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There are two types of steering rod and two types of ball joint.
one type has threads right to the end of the rod and a fully
threaded ball joint must be fitted. The other has a non threaded
shoulder on the ball joint and the rod has no thread in the end
whrer the clamp is that prevents it from unscrewing. Fitting the
wrong ball joint in the wrong rod is very bad.. A father and
son were killed in a head on colision due to this common
mistake. Have a look in the rod and double check ...
#Post#: 35582--------------------------------------------------
Re: Atrocious road holding in the wet: mixed tyres?
DIR By: ProDave
Date: August 31, 2012, 7:49 am
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Now that IS interesting re the different track rod end types.
And guess what, according to that information, the joint I'm
replacing is mismatched.
Looking at the rod, the first inch or so is not threaded, but I
have a fully threaded ball joint.
Now if I can, I'll get the right joint to match the rod. I
strongly suspect the other 3 will be "wrong" as well.
Now I'm not questioning this information, but please explain HOW
it is dangerous.
In my case, my fully threaded ball joint has a thread 2 inches
long.
So even allowing for the unthreaded portion of the rod, there
will be a good inch of thread engaged. So I can't see a problem
there.
I'm guessing the problem is the unthreaded section of the rod
clamping onto a threaded section of the ball joint is the issue,
meaning it doesn't clamp as well, so the whole lot may be prone
to undoing?
Is that what the issue is?
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