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#Post#: 34315--------------------------------------------------
replacing a fusebox, how do i do it
DIR By: scruffytruck
Date: August 16, 2012, 3:28 pm
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Although not urgent I currently have a small (6) fusebox with
ceramic fuses that I would like to replace with a waterproof
item and probably blade fuses.
The lid on mine is knackered as well.
Is it best to solder or crimp connections (or both) and assuming
crimping can anyone reccomend a good tool.
I will probably look at a 12 slot waterproof box to allow for
future additions such as CB and auxillary sockets, I've looked
on vehicle wiring products site but is there anywhere else worth
looking?
Ta
#Post#: 34317--------------------------------------------------
Re: replacing a fusebox, how do i do it
DIR By: Hairyvike
Date: August 16, 2012, 3:57 pm
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...these are good quality and cheap...I recently bought the 6
way
HTML http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-Way-Blade-Fuse-Box-Holder-HIGH-QUALITY-/130626240181?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1e69ee3eb5
HTML http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-Way-Blade-Fuse-Box-Holder-HIGH-QUALITY-/130626240181?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1e69ee3eb5
....and these are a damn good crimping tool that do both
insulated and non-insulated crimps....bought a pair a while back
HTML http://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-3777-Crimping-Tool/dp/B00386ZRQU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1345150524&sr=8-2
HTML http://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-3777-Crimping-Tool/dp/B00386ZRQU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1345150524&sr=8-2
#Post#: 34322--------------------------------------------------
Re: replacing a fusebox, how do i do it
DIR By: jessejazza
Date: August 16, 2012, 4:35 pm
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--- Quote from: scruffytruck link ---
>
> Although not urgent I currently have a small (6) fusebox with
ceramic fuses that I would like to replace with a waterproof
item and probably blade fuses.
>
> The lid on mine is knackered as well.
>
> Is it best to solder or crimp connections (or both) and
assuming crimping can anyone reccomend a good tool.
>
> I will probably look at a 12 slot waterproof box to allow for
future additions such as CB and auxillary sockets, I've looked
on vehicle wiring products site but is there anywhere else worth
looking?
>
> Ta
>
--- End Quote ---
Crimp i'm always told is best but i tend to solder some
connections but then i only use non-insulated spades and add on
the insulation as it looks better. The pre insulated terminals
in their red blue and yellow look pretty silly on a classic.
I'm doing a car at present and i've chosen VWP LFB04 [because i
only wanted 4-way] you may like the LFB10 or LFB12. Bit cheaper
is the FBB8T - i've had the cheap FHA40... 3 in a bank and they
were fine for 12 years until i sold the car. More important if
you don't want to drill additional holes - give them a phone and
find out the distance between mounting holes. I did today and
chose the LFB04. This range are expensive but they are good
quality but then the lucas ones which i'm just removing are
twice that [and crap].
Beware of eBin... i normally find goods are poor and often seem
to have "legs" - take a dislike to me before we've even met and
don't arrive in the post!
--- Quote from: Hairyvike link ---
>
> ...these are good quality and cheap...I recently bought the 6
way
HTML http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-Way-Blade-Fuse-Box-Holder-HIGH-QUALITY-/130626240181?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1e69ee3eb5
HTML http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-Way-Blade-Fuse-Box-Holder-HIGH-QUALITY-/130626240181?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1e69ee3eb5
>
> ....and these are a damn good crimping tool that do both
insulated and non-insulated crimps....bought a pair a while back
HTML http://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-3777-Crimping-Tool/dp/B00386ZRQU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1345150524&sr=8-2
HTML http://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-3777-Crimping-Tool/dp/B00386ZRQU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1345150524&sr=8-2
>
--- End Quote ---
That is the same as VWP M71 they are only for non insulated
spade terminals and non insulated ring terminals (which have a
different crimp needing the semi circular ones at the rear. It's
good for the ring terminals but too wide for the spade i found.
As you're only doing spades i think the D1 tool is better. i've
got both.
Half the time i just use some narrow good quality narrow nosed
pliers. Sometimes solder and cover with shrink wrap for a
permanent connection.
#Post#: 34395--------------------------------------------------
Re: replacing a fusebox, how do i do it
DIR By: Hairyvike
Date: August 17, 2012, 3:40 pm
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...I use the rear lugs for crimping insulated terminals....as
long as the stake is opposite the join in 'em they're excellent
#Post#: 34400--------------------------------------------------
Re: replacing a fusebox, how do i do it
DIR By: simdeb
Date: August 17, 2012, 4:07 pm
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Try these they do a lot of vintage stuff and not to bad on price
HTML http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php
only thing with solder is make sure you have a clean joint as a
dry joint will become brittle and snap
crimps are good but use a crimping tool as you can not over
crimp as this can snap the joint
and always leave a little slack to allow you to remake off
again if you crimp it wrong
#Post#: 34984--------------------------------------------------
Re: replacing a fusebox, how do i do it
DIR By: jessejazza
Date: August 23, 2012, 5:24 pm
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--- Quote from: scruffytruck link ---
>
> Although not urgent I currently have a small (6) fusebox with
ceramic fuses that I would like to replace with a waterproof
item and probably blade fuses.
--- End Quote ---
Just learnt yesterday from an autoelectrician. He's known a
number of blade fuses melt. He thinks glass or ceramic are
better. I'd say decide on the mounting holes first and then
choice will be clearer. I don't like glass as they tend to rust
around the end of the fuse as well as corrode up in the holder.
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