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#Post#: 33669--------------------------------------------------
T'watter pump. Tips, do's, don'ts
DIR By: chippers
Date: August 8, 2012, 4:08 pm
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The pig as had a thirst since I got her, and to cut a long story
short, having just replaced the top hose and heater valve (both
US anyway) its still using about a litre following every good
run out. A close look when cold now reveals seepage from the
output shaft of the water pump and so assume a new one is
needed.
So folks, any tips, do's, don'ts, Haynes says its rad out but
there looks to be enough space with rad and front panel in
situe? Any makes to avoid or go for? On eblag and the usual
suspects they range from £16 to £65. (2.25 NA diesel BTW).
Any advice welcome.
Cheers.
#Post#: 33670--------------------------------------------------
Re: T'watter pump. Tips, do's, don'ts
DIR By: Rich_P
Date: August 8, 2012, 4:18 pm
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I don't recall removing the radiator when I did one. But I
think I also had the normal rad cowling thing for the fan
removed too.
#Post#: 33677--------------------------------------------------
Re: T'watter pump. Tips, do's, don'ts
DIR By: guest13
Date: August 8, 2012, 4:52 pm
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You probably need to take the fan cowling off (not sure, ive
never had one fitted)
But without it the Rad certainly doesnt need to come out
Nothing to worry about really ... some bolts may be seized in so
be careful ... snapping the leads to lots of :-? to sort
Brand wise ... Can't remember what my last one was, came from
local motor factors (probably QH or similar as that usually what
they supply)
#Post#: 33679--------------------------------------------------
Re: T'watter pump. Tips, do's, don'ts
DIR By: Time Bandit
Date: August 8, 2012, 5:08 pm
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I took the rad out when I did mine, mainly because I wanted to
clean it up and paint it anyhow, don't recall if I actually
would of needed to but it did make life a hell of a lot easier
for the sake of a few of nuts and bolts.
#Post#: 33688--------------------------------------------------
Re: T'watter pump. Tips, do's, don'ts
DIR By: Rhythm Thief
Date: August 8, 2012, 10:07 pm
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I've just fitted a new Bearmach one, which seems to be very good
quality ... about £30 from Wye Valley Garage in Ross on Wye, if
that's any help. I had the radiator and front panel off anyway,
which definitely makes the job easier. Keep an eye on which bolt
comes out of which hole: there are three different lengths and
two different sizes.
#Post#: 33689--------------------------------------------------
Re: T'watter pump. Tips, do's, don'ts
DIR By: NoelC
Date: August 9, 2012, 2:17 am
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I did one on the 2a 109 with the rad in place, it was easy
enough. I swapped it for a pump off a scrap engine that was
ancient but obviously genuine and not Shitpart. I suspect if you
avoid the latter brand you'll be OK.
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