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#Post#: 113--------------------------------------------------
Re: Inside a Salisbury Diff - step by step guide
By: estwdjhn Date: January 4, 2012, 3:58 pm
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A step by step guide to dismembering a Salisbury rear axle from
a 109". The workshop manual makes these sound unbelievably
scary, but its possible to remove and exchange the diff units
fairly easily. If you want a 3.54:1 ratio, the diff unit from an
early 110 axle will fit as a straight swap - that's what I've
got, a complete 110 rear axle only cost me £10.
To begin...
You will need the following tools and parts
17mm, 19mm, 32mm sockets.
Decent socket drive bar, or windy gun
Medium Cold Chisel
Prybar
Rear cover gasket
It is a good idea to also have a spare pinion nut to hand,
First off, drain the diff and remove the rear cover plate, it is
secured by umpteen 17mm head bolts.
HTML http://images.serieslandrover.co.uk/diff2.jpg
HTML http://images.serieslandrover.co.uk/diff1.jpg
Then undo the big nut on the propshaft end of the pinion. If the
axle is on the vehicle this is quite easy, as the wheel stop it
all turning, but if not, you will need to jam the crown wheel to
the case in order to lock the pinion. The nut will have been
locked on by someone knocking a dent into the curved section at
the top with a cold chisel, if you have problems getting it
undone, you may have to indulge in brutality... I eventually
split the nut on the donor axle with a cold chisel, if you do
this take great care not to cause thread damage. Once the nut is
undone, the drive flange should just pull out off the pinion.
On the nut has been undone on the pinion, undo both hub drive
flanges, and withdraw together with the halfshafts. Check the
outer ends of the halfshafts and drive flanges for wear - if
there is rotational movement of the flange against the
halfshaft, get a new halfshaft and flange, as eventually they
strip the splines and you lose drive.
Then undo the 4 19mm head bolts which secure the bearing either
side of the crownwheel unit, and remove the bearing caps. Keep
the bearing caps so you can refit the same cap the same way
round in the same side in the case, ideally using the same bolts
in each hole - the bearing caps will be machined to match the
case.
Now, withdraw the diff unit. According to the workshop manual,
you need to spread the case to do this, but both of mine came
straight out, as have everyone's I've ever spoke to, including
Landyboy whose changed quite a few. It may need a little
encouragement to move from a prybar. Don't try and move one side
out much beyond the other, or it will jam, it has to come out
square on to the gap in the case it lives in.
HTML http://images.serieslandrover.co.uk/contrastorig.jpg
This is the crownwheel and bearings as removed. Take care not to
let it get full of dirt or grit while moving it around, and also
take care to keep the two outer bearing races, matched with
their respective ends.
HTML http://images.serieslandrover.co.uk/diff3.jpg
This is the case after removing the crownwheel unit. The pinion
shaft is free, and can be withdrawn. On the pinion will be a
bearing, spacer sleeve, and crush sleeve. It is important to
understand that these are matched sets - you must use a
crown-wheel unit, pinion, spaces and drive flange from the same
axle, otherwise as a minimum you will have to set the
crown-wheel backlash up by hand.
Now for reassembly, which is basically the same load of stuff
done backwards. First off, put the pinion of the new diff
through the case, and slide the drive flange on the outside,
then fit the washer and nut, just finger tight.
Then slide in the crownwheel unit. If the axle is on the
vehicle, I found it easiest to lift the crownwheel into the diff
pan facing 90deg from normal, then shove the bearings onto each
end, before pulling it off the diff pan, turning it back round
and sliding into place. Again, keep it all square on to stop it
jamming, and if it really won't go, only tap it with a hammer,
via a block of wood. It doesn't have to slide all the way back -
provided you could get the bearing caps on over it, they will
pull it into place.
Fit the bearing caps matched to the case, not the internals ,
remember to keep them the same side and same way round as they
came off. Do up all four 19mm head bolts evenly, work round in
an X pattern pulling them up tighter in stages to make sure the
caps seat evenly.
Then refit the half-shafts and drive flanges, and do the pinion
nut up. The pinion nut takes up the slack in the pinion
bearings, there should be no forwards backwards movement in the
bearing, but it shouldn't be tight to turn either. Once you are
confident this is right, use a cold chisel to dent the dome
shaped ring on the top of the nut, to stop the nut turning and
undoing.
Then refit the backplate with a new gasket, fill with oil, and
bob should be the proverbial uncle.
If (as I imagine most people following this guide will be) you
fit a 3.54:1 diff, to replace a 4.7, here is a handy chart to
work out where to put stickers on your speedo to know how fast
you are going...
Marked Speed - Real Speed (assuming the speedo was right before,
and 3.54 diffs have replaced 4.7's)
7.5 - 10
15 - 20
22.5 - 30
30.1 - 40
37.7 - 50
45.2 - 60
52.7 - 70
60.3 - 80
#Post#: 118--------------------------------------------------
Re: Inside a Salisbury Diff - step by step guide
By: estwdjhn Date: January 4, 2012, 4:01 pm
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Subsequent note, written some time after the guide:
Take great care to ensure the rear cover and seal is oil tight -
the covers tend to pinhole where the reinforcing strip is at the
bottom - this happened to mine on the M60 and the resultant lack
of oil meant I had to buy a new diff, and spend several happy
hours picking the remains of the old ones bearings out of the
case...
#Post#: 219--------------------------------------------------
Re: Inside a Salisbury Diff - step by step guide
By: rbrtcrowther Date: January 4, 2012, 5:09 pm
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that chart is the handiest thing I've seen in ages...
#Post#: 50870--------------------------------------------------
Re: Inside a Salisbury Diff - step by step guide
By: Fluffle-Valve Date: February 3, 2013, 7:42 pm
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Cheers for this. Sounds easy and I hope it is, as in the next
couple of weeks or so, I shall be doing just this conversion...
Ta very much for the info.... :smile1
#Post#: 53091--------------------------------------------------
Re: Inside a Salisbury Diff - step by step guide
By: RMS Date: March 1, 2013, 12:51 pm
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Just a quick follow up to this - I normally use an automatic
centre punch to mark the bearing caps next to the bolts before
removing.
I punch once on the top right, twice on bottom right, 3 on
bottom left and 4 on top left eg. clockwise.
That way, you can clean them up and not forget which way they go
:thumbs:
#Post#: 75773--------------------------------------------------
Re: Inside a Salisbury Diff - step by step guide
By: espacekiller Date: September 26, 2013, 6:50 am
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Just a bit more info showing an improvised bearing puller
How heavy is a Salisbury axle? VERY 2 man struggle. Best to
carry the case and diff as a unit and fit the shafts and hubs
once on the vehicle but it is still a 2 man job.
Case wire brushed, rust treated, primed, painted 4.7 Diff ripped
out.
[URL=
HTML http://s965.photobucket.com/user/my05pjn/media/Land%20Rover/rear%20axle/DSCF3177_zps3ee9494b.jpg.html][IMG]http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/my05pjn/Land%20Rover/rear%20axle/DSCF3177_zps3ee9494b.jpg[/img][/URL]
Special Tool RUF Tw47 changing a pitted bearing on the
replacement 3.54 salisbury diff scourced from a 110 axle.
The hose clip holds the rollers in to the groove in the inner
race so you can pull without them popping out, the bolt heads
line up with a slot in the diff case so slot behind the inner
race, I loaded this up a fair bit and it did not move i had to
give it some proper encouragement with a big hammer and stout
chisel. Do not use this method if you intend to reuse the
bearing it is only suitable for removing a scrap one.
[URL=
HTML http://s965.photobucket.com/user/my05pjn/media/Land%20Rover/rear%20axle/DSCF3178_zpsa9be45fe.jpg.html][IMG]http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/my05pjn/Land%20Rover/rear%20axle/DSCF3178_zpsa9be45fe.jpg[/img][/URL]
3.54 Diff fitted, just slipped in.... Yeh right it fell off the
stands landed (not properly) on my foot broke some storage boxes
full of nuts and bolts and chopped clean through the new gasket
then spewed it's oil in to the pile of bolts on the floor.
[URL=
HTML http://s965.photobucket.com/user/my05pjn/media/Land%20Rover/rear%20axle/DSCF3182_zps2e8a43bc.jpg.html][IMG]http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/my05pjn/Land%20Rover/rear%20axle/DSCF3182_zps2e8a43bc.jpg[/img][/URL]
Fitted, all new seals, new lands, some bearings, refaced the
output drive flange where the seal runs by filing it whilst it
spun in the lathe :eek: which worked really well, then polished
it back up with wet and dry, time will tell if it worked.
[URL=
HTML http://s965.photobucket.com/user/my05pjn/media/Land%20Rover/rear%20axle/DSCF3561_zpsbeeed393.jpg.html][IMG]http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/my05pjn/Land%20Rover/rear%20axle/DSCF3561_zpsbeeed393.jpg[/img][/URL]
Top Tip, i thought i would share this little trick, just double
a cable tie through a short section of washer hose or similar,
this has endless uses.
[URL=
HTML http://s965.photobucket.com/user/my05pjn/media/Land%20Rover/rear%20axle/DSCF3563_zps524b0d94.jpg.html][IMG]http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/my05pjn/Land%20Rover/rear%20axle/DSCF3563_zps524b0d94.jpg[/img][/URL]
[URL=
HTML http://s965.photobucket.com/user/my05pjn/media/Land%20Rover/rear%20axle/DSCF3564_zpse19aa34a.jpg.html][IMG]http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae131/my05pjn/Land%20Rover/rear%20axle/DSCF3564_zpse19aa34a.jpg[/img][/URL]
#Post#: 76429--------------------------------------------------
Re: Inside a Salisbury Diff - step by step guide
By: puddlejumper Date: October 3, 2013, 7:51 am
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Love the cable tie trick, will be using that one when I do brake
pipes on my rebuild :) :)
Cheers
#Post#: 96194--------------------------------------------------
Re: Inside a Salisbury Diff - step by step guide
By: niteram Date: February 14, 2015, 2:12 pm
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I too have now used this cable tie fixing, and will soon be
doing the diff swap as described.
I've got the donor axle and a diff for the front, now waiting
for a bit of good weather and some arsedness to get the job done
(I've taken the front prop off already)
#Post#: 96208--------------------------------------------------
Re: Inside a Salisbury Diff - step by step guide
By: niteram Date: February 15, 2015, 2:39 pm
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Well I woke up today to find the sun was out and I was full of
arsedness so told the wife I was going to do a bit of work on
the Landy :rolleye0012:
So 2 diffs and pinions etc removed and the boingy one fitted
back under the SW I even fitted the little tag stamped with the
diff ratio.
filled up with oil and a quick spin up the road. well chuffed.
:smilewide:
longer test tomorrow
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