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#Post#: 2866--------------------------------------------------
H4 headlight
By: Rob vW Date: September 18, 2020, 4:32 am
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If you want to improve the headlight on a Nuovo Falcone, you can
use the headlight unit from a mk 1 VW Polo. I got one made by
Hella.
It is not an exact fit. You will find that the headlight rim
sits on the new headlight glass. You can fit rubber edging
strip onto the rim to give a seal. You will also need to remove
the adjustment brackets from the headlight as they are not
needed, and grind off the glass alignment pip at the bottom of
the headlight.
The W clips will be a very tight fit to hold the headlight into
the rim. You might only be able to fit 3 clips, but they should
be adequate.
Be careful about connecting the headlight wires and get the
polarity right. When you look at the back of the bulb, there
are 3 spade connections in an upside down U formation. The left
vertical spade is earth, upper horizontal spade is low beam and
right vertical spade is high beam. As the original wire
terminations are bullets, I simply made short wires colour coded
according to the originals, with a spade connection for the new
headlight end, and bullet connections on the opposite end to go
into a joining socket to connect to the original wiring. And if
you use a double socket you can wire in the yellow/black wire
from the high beam warning light.
As the original CEV headlight reflector on my bike is going
rusty, I thought it a worthwhile conversion.
#Post#: 2867--------------------------------------------------
Re: H4 headlight
By: banquo Date: September 19, 2020, 6:35 am
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That's a useful tip Rob. I read of someone else fitting another
headlamp unit, apparently without much modification, but
unfortunately can't remember what it was... >:( For mine, I
kept the original, as the reflector is still good, and fitted a
halogen bulb with the same Bosch pattern. That improved things,
and I've recently improved it a bit more by adding relays for
main beam and dip (with the added benefit of taking the load off
the unreliable CEV switch) and run a completely separate and
dedicated feed and earth directly from battery to the relays and
the light.
That's as good as it gets on the stock light, but the beam
pattern and focus is quite poor, with a lot of beam spread.
#Post#: 2869--------------------------------------------------
Re: H4 headlight
By: mfeist Date: September 22, 2020, 3:31 am
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Hi,
I bought on ebay for 40EUR
HTML https://www.ebay.de/itm/Honda-CB-350-Four-CB-400-Four-H4-Einsatz-neu-Reflektor-154mm-reflector/362968712928?hash=item54829f06e0:g:n6sAAOSwQTVV~BdD
Fits allmost perfect. BUT I recommend using relays between the
original switch and the H4 bulb. H4 consumes about 50% more
current. The switch contacts will wear out sooner. I mounted two
switching relays, one for the short and the other for the high
beam.
Regards
Feistko
#Post#: 2872--------------------------------------------------
Re: H4 headlight
By: Rob vW Date: September 23, 2020, 4:09 am
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I am sure that the Honda CB350/400 light fits fine. The CB 350
was never officially imported into the UK and would have the
wrong dip beam for us here anyway. Also, the CB400/4 headlight
tends to be rather expensive when compared with the Hella light
from a VW Polo mk1.
I am interested in which relays you fitted and how you connected
the wiring. Did you need 2 relays, 1 for dip beam and 1 for
main beam?
#Post#: 2873--------------------------------------------------
Re: H4 headlight
By: banquo Date: September 24, 2020, 6:42 am
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I took a live feed and earth directly from the battery, with the
live feed going to a micro relay triggered by a feed from the
brake light switch, so it switches on with the ignition. That
feed is taken all the way to the headlamp shell, where it feeds
another two micro relays, one for main beam, and one for dip.
The relay coils are fed from the main beam and dip feeds from
the dipswitch, respectively. That way, I have a heavy cable from
battery to relays to minimise voltage drop, and remove the
headlamp current from both light/dipswitch and ignition switch.
The easier way would be to divert the feed from ignition switch
to the light switch to the relay inputs, thus removing the load
only from the light switch, but it was easy to bring a dedicated
feed from the battery, and I thought that unloading the ignition
switch was probably a good thing to do. Bringing a heavy earth
cable from battery to the bulbholder also minimises voltage
drop.
#Post#: 2878--------------------------------------------------
Re: H4 headlight
By: mfeist Date: September 25, 2020, 2:40 am
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Hello,
my very simple H4 bulb connection:
I tied everything behind the new H4 headlight, next to the fuse
holder.
I used two ordinary 12V DC 20A car relays.
I brought + 12V to the relays from the fuse holder (line coming
from the main ignition lock running through the fuse). To
control the relays I used lines coming from the light switch to
the old bulb one for the long and the other for the short beam.
For - 12V I used an existing line in the headlight.
regards Feistko
#Post#: 2881--------------------------------------------------
Re: H4 headlight
By: Rob vW Date: October 18, 2020, 1:07 pm
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Relays now fitted & working! Not just the headlight but the
horn as well, which is now really loud.
However, I found it useful to draw out the circuits in a
straight line as staring at the wiring diagram can send you
crazy.
If you take the horn circuit as an example, put the battery
earth at the left end, then going to the right you get the
battery positive, regulator B+, ignition switch 30, ignition
switch 15/54, in to fuse board top row connector 3, out from
fuse board bottom row connector 7, into horn+, out via horn -,
into connector board E, out of connector board E to horn push
button and finally to earth via the horn push button when
operated.
The relay has 4 connections, effectively 2 pairs with power +
into one connector & earth- out of the 2nd connector. The
connectors are numbered 30, 85, 86 & 87. The pairs are 30 & 87
and 85 & 86. 30 & 85 will be + power in. This means that the
connection E wires can be disconnected. Also pull out the wire
from the fuse board at lower connector 7. One will be connected
to relay connector 87 and one earth. Relay connector 86 is
connected to the horn push button wire which goes to earth when
the push button is pressed.
This gives you a nice loud horn.
#Post#: 2882--------------------------------------------------
Re: H4 headlight
By: banquo Date: October 18, 2020, 3:04 pm
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Sounds like a result Rob; I have a colour wiring diagram that's
far easier to follow.
Never thought of doing the horn, but I've run out of space in
the headlamp shell anyway! ;)
#Post#: 2883--------------------------------------------------
Re: H4 headlight
By: Rob vW Date: October 19, 2020, 4:32 am
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There were a couple of false starts, but it does seem to work
quite well now with the lights & horn. The horn (a single snail
horn) is now particularly loud!
Yes, the headlight shell is getting a bit crowded, but I still
reckon there is room for the next project which is to fit
indicators and a dynastart and get all the associated wiring in.
#Post#: 2884--------------------------------------------------
Re: H4 headlight
By: banquo Date: October 19, 2020, 5:16 am
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I've sacrificed one of my toolboxes for electrical stuff, and
now have an earth busbar, and a modern spade fusebox in there,
as well as a couple of relays. I ran a dedicated live and earth
from those to the lights, via a relay triggered by the brake
light feed, to take the load off the ignition switch as well as
the light switch
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