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       #Post#: 2742--------------------------------------------------
       The Mighty Falcone does the Stella Alpina and survives, almost
       By: banquo Date: December 20, 2019, 12:10 pm
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       I've always been scathing about vans; trailers, campers and
       caravans too. “Why not ride your bike to events?” I would
       grumble, as I set up my solitary tent beside my bike, amongst
       the forest of four wheelers, at rally after rally. Quite apart
       from anything else, 'vanning' doesn't have quite the same ring
       to it as motorcycling, but even the strongest of views are
       subject to change, and pensioners such as me have to learn to
       live with the shame.
       I can blame it on my niece, who in a bout of romantic
       inconsideration, decided to get married in Portugal the same
       weekend as Ali and I should have set off for France. Prepared to
       abandon my trip, I had resigned myself to postponing it until a
       wedding-less year, but had more than underestimated the tenacity
       of a determined Geordie woman with a cunning plan. Before I
       could pour myself a conciliatory beer, it was decided for me
       that the Mighty Falcone would be whisked off to Italy by van, as
       I was impressing the locals with my hirsute sartorial elegance
       in Faro. A Ford Transit duly appeared, to add to the stable of
       assorted bikes and cars; 11 years old, with over 100,000 on the
       clock, and a home-made conversion into sort of a camper, into
       which the previous owner had stuffed a couple of trials bikes
       for weekends in Northumberland.
       Further inspection revealed that shoehorning our pair of lardy
       bikes into the available space wasn't an option, so the next few
       weeks were spent undoing the conversion, and redoing into
       something that might work, having first to remove the fairing
       from the Mighty Falcone, as its bulk was just too much. We
       discovered that electricity was not a strong point of the
       previous owner, the entire conversion having been wired up in
       2-core lighting flex, probably rated at no more than 3A, and
       certainly considerably less than the 25A required for the 300W
       inverter he'd fitted. This 'loom' was held together with various
       bits of connector strip and insulating tape, and with not a fuse
       in sight. We bought a fusebox, a couple of galvanized chocks
       from an outfit in Germany, a triple width ramp off eBay, and
       moved the kitchen unit behind the front seats to give full width
       rewiring from my copious supplies of junk. After a lot of
       faffing about, we finally managed to fit the whole thing
       together, just before I Ryanaired myself off to Portugal, and
       Ali headed for Brion for a Guzzi rally, with both bikes in the
       back. The wedding was great by the way, and there was a power
       cut mid-reception, and the only thing left working was the
       bar....
       By Monday evening, I was back home, with just a day to force the
       washing through the machine, and pack up to fly off to Bergamo,
       one of those airports which the likes of Ryanair designate as
       Milan, but which is nowhere near it. Arriving close to midnight,
       my carriage, well Transit, awaits, and we're soon ensconced in
       our comfy B&B, to avoid having to unload the bikes in the middle
       of the night. It's Italy, it's hot, and the air-conditioning
       consists of a half open window, so we're awoken by the ****
       crowing at some ungodly hour, and find we're sharing the car
       park with a Lamborghini. We hit the road early for Mandello del
       Lario, where the bikes are unloaded, and a very welcome cold
       beer consumed before we hit town.
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       Last time we were there was the 97th Anniversary, and there were
       literally thousands of Guzzis returning to their home town, and
       goodness knows what 2021 will bring on the centenary.
       This time, there are few, and mine won't start. The Mighty
       Falcone always starts first kick, so something is clearly wrong:
       either that or it's got in a sulk for arriving back to its
       birthplace by Ford. Eventually, it does decide to fire up, and
       seems to run fine, but I just know it's not right, and it feels
       so much like last year, when the coil died at a VMCC rally.:
       surely it can't have failed again so soon? I leave it running
       for a while, until I'm scolded by the camp site owner into
       shutting it off, for the benefit of the other campers.
       Understandable perhaps, as I left the stock double decker
       silencer at home, and took the lighter but much noisier cocktail
       shaker instead, and everyone's tent is full of noise and exhaust
       fumes.
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       #Post#: 2743--------------------------------------------------
       Re: The Mighty Falcone does the Stella Alpina and survives, almo
       st
       By: banquo Date: December 20, 2019, 12:11 pm
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       We plan a tour on the far side of Lake Como, and head for the
       Bellagio ferry, a few miles north along the coast road at
       Varenna, stopping for fuel just next to the campsite. The bike
       doesn't feel right, working well at full throttle, but misfiring
       at lower speeds, and as I de-clutch to make the turn down to the
       ferry, the engine dies completely between gears. I am forced to
       coast down behind an oblivious Ali, stopping about 20 yards from
       the ferry, and having to do the push of shame in front of the
       hundreds of tourists thronging the shore, sweat dripping down my
       leather-clad body in the mid-day sun, as they gawp in their cool
       linen suits and summer dresses. We push both bikes to the side
       of the queue, as it makes no sense to add to our woes by
       crossing the lake, and get the tools out.
       There's a stink of fuel, and it doesn't smell like any petrol
       I've ever come across; more like diesel, but the journey from
       Mandello confirms it can't be mis-fuelling, as it would have
       died long before here. The plug's sooted up, and replacing it
       allows the engine to start again, exactly as it did last year
       with the coil. After a few minutes running, it begins to misfire
       again, and sure enough, the plug's once again sooted up. I
       recall last year's futile carburettor dismantling, and decide
       not to repeat it. Plug changed again, but this time it won't
       start, and emits a huge backfire through the open pipe, which
       has the bystanders diving for cover. We have an audience too,
       and a small crowd has gathered around the bike, led by an
       enthusiastic local who, despite the clearly broken down posture
       of the machine, entertains the less indoctrinated viewers with
       superlatives on the wonders of the Moto-Guzzi single.
       I have a spare copper HT lead in the pannier, and decide to fit
       that, in the hope that the ancient Halfords one might have
       succumbed to the warm weather. It's far too long, so rather than
       cut and have to make a new termination, I wrap it around the
       dynamo, and once again, it starts, and this time keeps running.
       We decide to make a break for Mandello, before the reluctant
       engine changes its mind, scrape the oil off our hands, pull on
       gloves and helmets, and head for Menni's place, where perhaps a
       spare coil might be located. There's nobody home of course, or
       if there is, they're not answering the door to the eccentric
       couple from over the water. A sad looking Lodola lies partially
       stripped outside, still strapped to the pallet on which it was
       delivered several years ago by the look of it, and the grounds
       outside are a mass of rusting machinery and old tyres. We decide
       to head back to town before all the bike shops are closed, but
       on restarting I make something of a breakthrough when I notice
       the dash lights dimming almost to nothing as the engine is
       turned over on the kick-start. It looks like the battery voltage
       is collapsing under load, and even the points closing is enough
       to kill the voltage. It's only 16 years old too, having been
       relegated to the Falcone some eight years ago, when it started
       struggling to churn the Harley over on cold mornings. You just
       can't get the quality these days, although perhaps rattling
       about in the back of the van was the last straw.
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       Surely, getting a battery should be easy enough in Mandello, and
       it is, as long as you're not fussy what you get. We try the
       garage next door to the campsite, fruitlessly, and then two of
       the many shops supplying parts for historic Guzzis, and both can
       supply the original spec. battery for an eye watering €130 or
       so. The problem is (quite apart from the cost, which would of
       course have been only £85 before the Great British Pound became
       the peso of Europe) that I don't want a gigantic wet cell
       battery. I ask for an AGM battery, but nobody seems to have
       heard of them, and although I could easily get one online, I
       need one now, and not next week. We're directed towards a
       battery shop up the hill, but fail to find it, so give up for
       the night, take the obligatory photo outside the factory door,
       and then get fed and drunk instead.
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       Next morning we're armed with a town map and a hangover, and
       while collecting some parts for a couple of Airone, find out
       exactly where the battery place is. It's no surprise we didn't
       find it, as it looks more like someone's house than a workshop,
       and so it is, and it's deserted when we get there. A knock on
       the house door rouses the owner from his lunch, and despite our
       protestations, he comes down to the workshop so we can explain
       the problem.
       #Post#: 2744--------------------------------------------------
       Re: The Mighty Falcone does the Stella Alpina and survives, almo
       st
       By: banquo Date: December 20, 2019, 12:12 pm
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       It's very useful when you're travelling with someone who speaks
       at least some Italian, as English isn't widely spoken here, but
       once again, we're offered the huge wet battery, and once again
       we ask for AGM and get nowhere. Eventually, I spot what looks
       like a 'dry' battery on one of the oil stained wooden benches.
       Small, but probably good enough? Battery man shakes his head
       gloomily and says it's too small, but unearths a slightly larger
       one that he thinks might do, reluctantly accepting that “lo
       stupido Scozzese” will not be diverted. It's a sealed lead-acid,
       so it needs filled and charged, but we can collect in a couple
       of hours. Cash changes hands, and the die is cast.
       That gives us time to wander through the town, and take in a
       Gelato down by the shore, the sun continuing to beat down
       unrelentingly.
       You're never quite sure if you've actually resolved a problem
       until you have some miles under your belt, but the new battery
       seems to have returned the bike to its normal self, once it's
       shoehorned into position, and suitably packed out with the
       cardboard box it came in. The terminals are on the wrong side,
       but the wires still reach, and the comforting glare from the
       headlamp confirms its fully charged condition. We're due at a
       friend's house in Ortanella, set high in the hills above the
       lake, and Ali suggests this is as good a chance as any to test
       the bike, so I follow the Transit back along the lake shore,
       exhaust reverberating from the tunnel walls. The road from
       Varenna to Esino Lario incorporates a series of 18 hairpins,
       gaining some 1,300 feet as it does so, and the view from the
       clifftop is simply stunning. I've already stopped once for some
       photos, and although we agreed to meet at the top, I pass
       multiple junctions on the way, hoping that by choosing what
       appears to be the steepest route we will coincide at some point,
       as I've no idea where we're going. Ali meanwhile, has stopped at
       a viewpoint, and is following my progress by ear, the cocktail
       shaker pipe being audible from miles away, as the overstressed
       engine thunders up the gradient, although she's only a few
       hundred feet away in a vertical direction. There is no respite,
       as the road continues unerringly towards the summit, but the
       Mighty Falcone takes it in its stride, its low gearing more than
       compensating for its meagre power output, until I turn the last
       bend and find the Transit parked up by the roadside.
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       We take some water, and get talking to an Italian guy with a
       nice Guzzi outfit who's interested in the 'foreign' Guzzi, and
       then continue upwards, along the cliff edge, a foot high wall
       being the only thing that separates us from the sheer drop of
       several hundred feet into the forest below. Gulp. I really don't
       like heights, and it's a relief when we finally stop climbing,
       and reach the grassy plateau where our host lays on cold beer
       and an excellent Italian meal. The bike rests under the eaves,
       while our host questions with good reason, why it stinks of
       petrol.... “Just evaporation from the carburettor.” I mutter
       reassuringly, thinking it's the tap leaking again, but as is so
       often the case, I'm wrong.
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       Despite the July sunshine, we awake to a chill in the thin
       mountain air, load the bike into the van, and set off for the
       ski resort of Bardonecchia, close to the French border, and set
       some 4,000 feet above sea level in the Alps. This
       unprepossessing little town, host to the 2006 Winter Olympics,
       has been the base for the Stella Alpina Motociclistica
       Internazionale, or 'Stella' for short, since 1967, when
       organiser, the late Mario Artusio moved it from it's first
       location at the Stelvio. This is all new to me, my experience in
       off-road riding being confined to those occasions when I left
       the tarmac and hit some solid object in the undergrowth, and a
       once only trip from Glendevon over the hills to Dollar on my
       Triumph Trailblazer, back in 1971, but Ali's an old hand, having
       summited on various machines over the years, including that most
       inappropriate of off-road machines, a Guzzi Le Mans with
       clip-ons and a full Stucchi fairing. The ride was conceived long
       before such fripperies as “Adventure Bikes” had been invented,
       and it was Mario's vision that the climb would be an opportunity
       for ordinary people on ordinary bikes to boldly go where no one
       has gone before, or at least where they would never have
       considered going.
       #Post#: 2745--------------------------------------------------
       Re: The Mighty Falcone does the Stella Alpina and survives, almo
       st
       By: banquo Date: December 20, 2019, 12:13 pm
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       There's a 'blessing of the bikes' arranged at a church in town,
       an old tradition, and Ali's keen that we get there before it
       starts, to meet up with all the others who also have been going
       for decades. The van is parked up in a gravelled area bereft of
       all facilities, that benefits from the name of Campo Smith in
       name alone, and we share our car park beside the river with a
       variety of campers, trucks, cars and show wagons, that have
       apparently been mothballed for the season. Of course we're very
       short of time, and by the time the bikes are extracted from the
       van, mirrors reset, etc. we have just a few minutes before we're
       supposed to be at the Kirk, so I fire up the now willing
       Militare, and follow Ali's R65 in a cloud of white dust and out
       onto the town. It's clear pretty soon that we don't know where
       we're going, as I trail disconsolately behind, and up a
       thankfully deserted one-way street the wrong way. This is
       followed by a mad dash through narrow streets until we finally
       emerge onto the main drag, a wide and cobbled shopping street
       emblazoned with No Entry signs. My leader is unfazed, and
       thunders on regardless. I on the other hand, am dissuaded from
       following by the several passers by who leap out into the road,
       gesticulating wildly at my errant progress, and finally by the
       Polizia, heading straight for me in the correct direction in
       their Alfa. Attempting some kind of compromise, I keep the
       engine running, and as the hill is steep, select first gear, and
       walk beside the bike at tickover, studiously ignoring the police
       car, and acting the part of an eccentric, motorised pedestrian.
       Ali is scathing about my cautious approach when I finally reach
       the top of the road, and a welcome two-way street, but we do
       manage to locate the Church of St. Hippolytus (the patron saint
       of fat mammals perhaps?) just as the service is about to begin.
       Being something of an atheist, this goes over my head, but they
       do have a translator, who delivers the text in French, German
       and English (at least) as well as the native Italian, as this is
       indeed an international affair.
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       We follow the service with a trial run up one of the many
       passes, a series of hairpins slicing the side of the mountain,
       punctuated by huge transverse gullies to carry the snow melt off
       the hills. Not the sort of thing you would like to hit at
       speed... We stop at one of the many tunnels, where the road is
       wider, for a panoramic view of the village below, and I feel my
       stomach lurching at the sheer drop. It's like sitting in the
       Gods at some huge theatre, with Bardonecchia as the stage,
       several hundred feet below.
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       Of course I have no intention of even attempting the Stella
       ascent with the Falcone, and say so as we follow a few beers at
       the Station with a 12 course meal, consisting mainly of 10
       different ways to serve polenta, in the foothills of the route.
       The ride up there was challenging enough, but at least it was
       tarmac, and the ride down was even more cautious, in the pitch
       dark, with the sure and certain knowledge of the precipitous
       drops that suck away the feeble glow from what passes for a
       headlight.
       The participants are persuasive though, and as Sunday morning
       dawns, I find I've agreed to at least take the trip up to base
       camp. It can't be that hard, can it, and I'm assured that it
       will be just fine. This provides me with the first introduction
       to the compulsive lying that characterises all those who ride
       the Col du Sommeiller, the Alpine Pass which joins Italy with
       neighbouring France, reaching around 10,000 feet as it does so.
       The road starts off as tarmac, with a few vicious hairpins, just
       to get you in the mood, as we retrace our route to last night's
       restaurant, but degrades rapidly as we pass it, firstly into a
       fair semblance of a forestry track, but then into a morass of
       dust and rocks. It's steep and punctuated with multiple
       hairpins, and the water coursing from the Alpine peaks has
       washed away the surface, leaving deep, stone-filled transverse
       ruts and deep channels running sort of, but not quite, parallel
       to where we want to go. I soon get into some kind of a rhythm,
       standing on the footrests to take the weight off the rear wheel,
       and praying they don't collapse as they did once before, while I
       was negotiating a cattle grid in Perthshire, with excruciating
       consequences for the nether regions. I learn to avoid the
       channels, as they self-steer the bike where they want to go,
       rather than where I want to go, but in places there's no choice.
       As the ascent continues, the road deteriorates still further,
       not helped by the completely insane people who seem to have
       decided that travelling up in their hire car might be a good
       idea, and are crashing through the rocks, ripping the underside
       off their vehicles, and forming mobile barricades to progress..
       We're forced to a halt by a particularly stupid and
       inconsiderate Mercedes driver, who gets a double dose of
       education into the profanities of Scottish and Geordie
       vernacular as we finally manage to squeeze past on a tight bend.
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       #Post#: 2746--------------------------------------------------
       Re: The Mighty Falcone does the Stella Alpina and survives, almo
       st
       By: banquo Date: December 20, 2019, 12:14 pm
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       It's late in the day, and most start early, when the roadway is
       less cut up; the result is not only that the dust and rocks are
       much worse, but also that we're meeting a continual stream of
       traffic coming the other way. There are far more of them than
       there are of us, and as the surface degrades, we find ourselves
       forced off the favoured path, and into the more dangerous and
       unpredictable areas. I'm in the lead on the Falcone, followed by
       Ali, with Mick riding shotgun on his AJP, having so generously
       sacrificed his own Stella to help us on our way. After what
       seems like forever, with the sweat carving fissures in the caked
       dust on our faces, I slew to a halt at a fork in the road. Down,
       and to the left, there's a plateau, with dozens of bikes and
       tents scattered around a cleared area, and to the right, I can
       see the road zig-zagging in a series of hairpins up the side of
       a sizeable cliff. “Where now?”, I cough, wishing I'd brought a
       dust mask. “Is this base camp?” Of course I don't get a
       satisfactory answer, and am urged to take the right fork,
       although I later discover that this was indeed the spot where I
       had agreed to abandon the climb. The road is becoming a road in
       name alone, and the hairpins are lethal, totally blind, and with
       gut wrenching vertiginous drops to send the unwary to their
       doom. The inside line is impossible, far too steep, so a wide
       line needs to be taken, to have some chance of seeing what's
       coming the other way, and to ease the gradient to one which the
       bikes can manage. The surface is fine white sand, punctuated by
       sharp rocks, and all the bikes are white now, with occasional
       mud splatters where we have traversed one of the many trickles
       of water. I'm forced to stop several times, finding my route
       blocked by descending bikes, and in one case a broadsiding quad
       bike, moving at insane speed, but he has four wheels to my two,
       and I know who would come off worse. About half way up this
       switchback, Ali calls it a day. Her R65 is bogged down in the
       sand, and we need to stop to extricate it. Having done the route
       so many times before, she has nothing to prove. I consider doing
       the same, and ask Mick how far it is to 'The Plateau' where I
       believe we're trying to go. “Just another couple of bends and
       we're there.” he lies, and with that, I'm committed to carrying
       on. We meet up with some others from the previous night, on
       their way back down, one of whom tells me it's just another ten
       minutes to the top, and there's a guy handing out badges to
       those who have made it. We manhandle Ali's bike round, no easy
       task, and as she heads off back to Base Camp, I fire up the
       Guzzi again, and with Mick faithfully holding onto my tail,
       continue the long grind up the hill.
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       Ali has our bottle of water, and soon my tongue feels like a
       leather strap in my mouth, although the Buff does keep some of
       the dust from my lungs I hope. One final turn, and suddenly
       we're on relatively flat ground, with a gentle slope heading
       upwards in an incline that I previously would have thought
       steep, but now seems easy. Not so the surface; the fine sand has
       all but gone, the stream of downward traffic is unrelenting, and
       I'm trying to pick my way through a maze of sharp rocks. By this
       time, we must be 8,000 or so feet up, and I'm permanently in
       first gear now, but the motor seems unconcerned, with no
       altitude sickness, no return of the previous problems, and not
       even any indication of overheating. Descending riders shout out
       “Eh! Falcone! Bravo!” in surprise at the vision of this unlikely
       apparition lumbering up the slope, surely the most inappropriate
       motorcycle on the slopes that day, if not the oldest.
       #Post#: 2747--------------------------------------------------
       Re: The Mighty Falcone does the Stella Alpina and survives, almo
       st
       By: banquo Date: December 20, 2019, 12:15 pm
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       There is a point in any journey, where no matter how bad it
       gets, you just need to keep going, otherwise all the pain and
       effort has been for naught. I'm now bouncing from rock to rock,
       and very close to going over the precipitous edge. I have
       learned to look well ahead, and plan my route well before I get
       to the next hazard, but often I'm forced off that choice by
       opposing traffic. When the front wheel hits a rock, as it does
       often, it kicks the wheel one way or another, and just when I
       think I have it under control, the rear wheel hits the same
       rock, with completely unpredictable consequences. Twice the
       front heads straight for the edge, and twice I somehow manage to
       avoid the catastrophic fall. Braking is clearly not an option,
       and I discover that opening the throttle seems to stabilise the
       bike as well as anything, or maybe it was just luck that
       prevented a very rapid and once only descent. I'm in constant
       fear of a puncture, or even worse, a rock through the soft alloy
       underbelly of the engine; I don't imagine that my recovery cover
       extends this far up a mountain. We reach a point where the road
       widens on a long sweeping bend, and I pull over for a break.
       It's like a moonscape, with piles of white rocks and dark grey
       gravel and silt left behind by the melting glaciers. It would
       have been a great photo opportunity, but Mick's keen to get on,
       so we mount up and continue through the rocks. I can see the
       next series of hairpins up and to my right, a repeat of what
       we've just been through, but the surface is now indescribably
       bad, all the small particles having been washed away by the
       melting snows, leaving only a jumble of sharp rocks to pick
       through. I'm forced off the 'road' in several places, as there
       simply isn't any path through the chaos of stones, and the
       forward planning succumbs to instinct and hope alone.
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       Hairpin
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       by bancquo
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       on Flickr
       I recall climbing in the Ochils in my youth, and always
       persuading myself that the next ridge was the top, when it
       wasn't. It's the same again, each bend leading inexorably to
       another, as the snow builds up at the side of the track in huge
       drifts until suddenly we're in standing traffic, and the show
       stops.
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       rocks
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       by bancquo
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       on Flickr
       I manage to park the bike somewhere secure, and realise I'm
       completely exhausted, mentally and physically. When I was a kid,
       65 year old men were sitting by the fire in their slippers, not
       riding unsuitable motorcycles up mountains. I scrape the surface
       off a snowdrift, and scoop some of the virgin snow beneath into
       my mouth, where it combines with the dust to form a gritty
       slurry that I spit out before taking another mouthful, recalling
       that unique taste of snow from my childhood. Why does snow have
       a taste?
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       Summit
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       by bancquo
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       on Flickr
       There's a party atmosphere in the thin air, the sense of
       achievement palpable, and the babble of excitement in German,
       English and Italian fights with the buzz of two-strokes, as some
       adventurous individuals head across the tundra to a steep hill
       of gravel, where they attempt, and largely fail, to reach the
       summit. Getting back is another obstacle, and several sink
       through the softening snow into the bog beneath, to the
       amusement of the spectators. Of course the man with the badges
       has long gone, so we have only a few pictures to record the
       experience.
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       Summit snow
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       by bancquo
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       on Flickr
       The stink of fuel from the bike pollutes the clean mountain air,
       and I discover that the odd smelling petrol is dripping from the
       fuel tap area onto the dynamo. Not evaporation from the
       carburettor then... The tap seems tight in its union, and the
       hoses are secure, so I effect a repair by stuffing some Kleenex
       into the damp area, and hope that will prevent a fiery and
       explosive end to the trip.
       It's around this point that I realise that the journey is only
       half complete, and I still have to find my way back down the
       hill. Manhandling the bike 180°, I fire up the motor, and start
       the descent, Mick still patiently taking up the rear. It's
       terrifying, and, for me, much worse than the ascent, where the
       gradient works to slow the bike when required. Even in its
       incredibly low first gear, engine braking isn't sufficient to
       control the downward progress of the Militare, and I find myself
       crawling along, trying to feather the rear brake and avoid
       touching the front, while my bowels churn like an overloaded
       cement mixer, and the sweat exudes from every pore. Right
       hairpins are the worst, as about half way around, all that is in
       front of you is the emptiness of free space into which the
       slightest error will send bike and rider to oblivion; not ideal
       when you suffer from vertigo. Progress is painfully slow and
       exhausting in the continuing glare of the summer sun, but
       eventually, we find ourselves within site of base camp, a few
       hundred feet below us, and stop for a photo shoot by the
       spectacular waterfall that borders the route.
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       waterfall
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       by bancquo
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       on Flickr
       As we remount, my side stand spring falls off into the dust.
       It's not broken, but neither will it stay on, so something has
       clearly been bent, and I'm forced to drop the spring into the
       pannier and retrieve a couple of tie-wraps to hold the stand up.
       As we descend the last series of hairpins to Base Camp, I'm
       frozen with fear, each turn presenting a new vision of certain
       death, and it's with great relief that we finally reach the
       junction.
       #Post#: 2748--------------------------------------------------
       Re: The Mighty Falcone does the Stella Alpina and survives, almo
       st
       By: banquo Date: December 20, 2019, 12:16 pm
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       I'd agreed to meet Ali here, but it's been so long, that Mick's
       sure she'll be sinking a cold beer back in town by now. Although
       I consider this entirely likely, I can also visualise only too
       well the consequences of heading back down, only to discover she
       had indeed stayed behind, so we part company, and Mick heads
       down the hill without the burden of Captain Slow, and I trundle
       the Falcone down the dusty path, and across a ford onto the
       grassy plateau, where I find a spot flat enough to deploy the
       centre-stand, and spend a fruitless 10 minutes trying to get the
       side-stand spring to stay on, before lashing it back up again.
       I can see no sign of Ali, or of her bike, but there are dozens
       scattered around, so I spend a futile 20 minutes or so
       searching, just to be sure. There's a wooden building like a
       Swiss Chalet on the far side of the flat area, and I discover
       this is a cafe and shop, where I purchase a can of ice cold
       Moretti which is consumed with gusto on the limp back to the
       bike, and I feel reinvigorated as I head off for the last leg
       down the hill.
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       Plateau
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       by bancquo
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       on Flickr
       I stop just once, overlooking a dam, and the stunning breach in
       the rocks that is the valley back into town, where I meet a
       couple from Ukraine, who are just heading up. We swap cameras to
       take the obligatory shots, before I take the last leg back into
       town, where everyone else has been gathered at the Station,
       sinking cold beers for quite some time it seems.
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       Dam
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       by bancquo
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       on Flickr
       Both bike and I are completely covered in white dust and mud,
       but apart from the broken side-stand, and the leaking fuel,
       we're pretty much unscathed by the experience, and the bike's
       still fit enough to take in the Singles Rally once we get back,
       although further investigation reveals that the fuel tank is
       split and leaking in three different places, and there's also
       significant play in the swinging arm and steering head. Clearly
       the ride didn't do it any favours, but bikes are for riding
       after all, and there's no adventure leaving them in the garage.
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       Filthy 2
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       by bancquo
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       on Flickr
       Of course I celebrate the lofty achievement with another cold
       beer; not a Stella unfortunately, for this is Italy after all,
       but a Moretti to wash down the first and most likely last ascent
       of the Stella Alpina on the Mighty Falcone. It seems equally
       appropriate.
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       Moretti
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       by bancquo
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       on Flickr
       It's over these beers that one of our companions reveals that
       last year, someone did go over the edge, taking out not only
       themselves, but another two bikes from the lower level, and I
       reflect that it's a good job they hadn't mentioned that in the
       morning...
       And that's the point; all this terror and challenge for me is
       but a walk in the park to those who have been doing it for
       twenty, thirty and forty years. They follow the day's activities
       with a few days of 'safaris' up adjoining mountain passes, all
       of which look equally tough to me, but they are equally blasé
       about these, putting my little adventure into stark perspective
       as just another ride up a hill....
       The van? Well, I wouldn't have got there without it, so from now
       on, vans are just fine by me, and I can live with that. Cheaper
       too, with only one fuel cost, and free accommodation if you're
       not too fussy where you stay, plus you keep the bikes fresher
       for the important bit, and limit the mileage.
       Carry on Vanning I say; it reaches the parts old fools on old
       bikes can't reach.
       #Post#: 2750--------------------------------------------------
       Re: The Mighty Falcone does the Stella Alpina and survives, almo
       st
       By: randall Date: December 21, 2019, 5:58 am
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       Banquo,
       Thanks for this Fantastic story of an epic adventure and of
       other times
       Vince
       #Post#: 2752--------------------------------------------------
       Re: The Mighty Falcone does the Stella Alpina and survives, almo
       st
       By: Dave Date: December 21, 2019, 4:20 pm
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       Terrific adventure, thanks for sharing it
       #Post#: 2755--------------------------------------------------
       Re: The Mighty Falcone does the Stella Alpina and survives, almo
       st
       By: Lone Wolf Date: January 16, 2020, 7:28 pm
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       Wotcha.
       Most excellent.
       I've never been one for the camper van and trailer brigade . . .
       . . .until it was forced upon me ten years ago.
       I can still ride - I can't get in and out of a tent, so the
       answer was  a camper van and trailer.  OK - I refuse to attend
       bike rallies with this combination, but I still have the trike
       and trailer tent / dog kennel for such occasions.
       *****************************************************
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