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#Post#: 146--------------------------------------------------
Ignition timing
By: Fried Ape Date: November 19, 2014, 5:08 am
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The ignition timing mark is on the flywheel. To set the timing,
the first job is to remove the flywheel cover. There is a
special tool for setting the timing according to the reference
mark, but they are no longer available. Don't despair, you can
make one.
You will need:
A piece of corrugated cardboard or other stiff card
A piece of plywood or hardboard
A wooden block, about one inch cubed
Some glue
A pencil
Cut the card into a crescent shape - hold it behind the rim of
the flywheel and draw the curve, then cut that piece away. You
want to make a piece of card that is roughly banana-shaped. The
top end of the banana needs to cover the hole of the casing bolt
above the engine sprocket, and the bottom end of the banana to
cover the hole for the bolt down near the neutral switch.
Cardboard is cheap, so keep trying until you can make a shape
that fits.
Poke holes in the cardboard with the point of the pencil, where
the bolt holes are. Push two of the casing bolts through the
cardboard and tighten them. Check the shape and fit of the
'banana' - it needs to lie flat against the joint face of the
crankcase, and clear the flywheel and the engine sprocket.
When you have a shape that fits, use it as a template to cut the
plywood. Drill the bolt holes, and then bolt it up to the side
of the engine.
Remove the spark plug and put the pencil down the hole. Gently
turn the flywheel (clockwise as you see it from the flywheel
side of the engine) until the piston is at top dead centre. Note
where the line marked PMS on the flywheel rim lies in relation
to your wooden banana. Glue the small wooden block onto the
banana as close to the edge of the flywheel as you can, so that
the PMS mark lies lidway along one side of the block.
Go and have a cup of tea, until the glue is dry.
Take the pencil and mark a series of thin lines across it, down
its length. Small scratches with a penknife will do. Put the
pencil down the spark plug hole again, and very gently move the
flywheel backwards and forwards. Watch the marks on the pencil
against the edge of the spark plug hole and look for the highest
point. When you are sure that the piston is at the top of its
stroke, mark the wooden block on the banana with a pen, opposite
the PMS mark on the flywheel. You have now made a timing tool.
To set the timing, open the points cover and turn the engine
over until the points are at their widest setting. Measure this
with a feeler gauge. It should be 0.42-0.48mm. Move the points
backing plate to adjust it.
To set the opening point, turn the engine over (turn the
flywheel clockwise as you look at it, or reach over the bike
from the ignition points side and turn it anticlockwise). Bring
the line marked AF 10 on the flywheel up to meet the timing mark
on your wodden banana tool. This should be where the points are
just opening. Slip a scrap of cigarette paper between the
points, and it should be released just as the AF 10 mark passes
the timing mark. For greater accuracy use a resistance meter,
but do remember to pull the points wire off the coil first, or
you will only see a short circuit (due to the neutral and oil
pressure switches being closed).
Check the points gap fully opened again, it should still be
between 0.32 and 0.48mm. If not, you will either need new
points, or to fiddle and file them a bit.
If the autoadvance is worn, it is a good idea to check the
timing at full advance. There is no mark on the flywheel for
this, so you will need to make one. Use a tape measure to
measure around the rim of the flywheel from the PMS mark. The
standard 270mm diameter flywheel has a circumpherence of 848mm.
The AF 10 mark (ten degrees before TDC) should come at 23.5 mm
away from the PMS mark. Full advance is 44 degres, so measure in
the same direction as the AF 10 mark a distance of 103.7mm away
from the PMS mark and draw a line on the rim.
You will now need to lock the autoadvance at full advance. The
ideal tool for this is two of the little alloy nuts that go onto
the tops of spark plugs. Pull the bobweights out and jam one of
these little nuts under each one. Once you are sure that the
unit is locked at full advance, use you cigarette paper or
resistance meter to measure the points - they should open just
as the new mark goes past your timing mark on the wodden banana
tool.
If the autoadvance is worn, it is better to set the timing at
full advance. The engine seems to tolerate some inaccuracy at
low revs, whereas it can run rough or poorly if the points are
not accurate at normal speeds.
And then put it all back together and go for a ride. If the bike
does not run smoothly, check your work. If it is still not
smooth, try setting the points opening to one or two mm either
side of the timing mark and see what works best.
#Post#: 1083--------------------------------------------------
Re: Ignition timing
By: cloggy Date: October 13, 2015, 4:30 am
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Or realign to the scratch on the points back plate so
helpfully left by a previous owner
#Post#: 1090--------------------------------------------------
Re: Ignition timing
By: huub Date: October 14, 2015, 8:46 am
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i made this to set the ignition , it bolts into the engine, the
ignition mark should line up with the bottom of the tool...
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