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#Post#: 2086--------------------------------------------------
Gearbox problems.
DIR By: velocette 1
Date: July 22, 2017, 8:15 am
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The gear box has started to play up on my Military Model. Before
we do anything it would be good to read up would any forum
member's be able to make any suggestions.Looking at previous
posts on this forum by the person that sold me the bike these
issues have been there a long time before I bought the bike.
#Post#: 2087--------------------------------------------------
Re: Gearbox problems.
DIR By: cloggy
Date: July 23, 2017, 3:07 am
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I see that you've had all the usual advice but still you'll have
to be specific. My gearbox is quietly fine if I make slow
deliberate changes. If I don't it may graunch and jump out of
gear. There's nothing wrong with my box, that's just the nature
of the beast. It's pretty much like the Sturmey Archer box on my
WD Norton made slightly more ponderous by the massive Guzzi
flywheel
#Post#: 2089--------------------------------------------------
Re: Gearbox problems.
DIR By: huub
Date: July 23, 2017, 4:24 am
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not sure what is wrong with your gearbox , but the shift spring
is known to break.
that will show by the shift lever not returning to neutral
position.
fortunately ( unlike on the guzzi twins) the spring is easy to
change
on all my guzzi's ( i'm at number 6 now) that sping failed at
least once....
#Post#: 2090--------------------------------------------------
Re: Gearbox problems.
DIR By: banquo
Date: July 24, 2017, 3:30 am
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When you say it's giving you problems, what exactly is
happening?
If the spring had failed, you would know straight away, with the
lever failing to return.
Probably best to start with the easy things; there's an adjuster
inside the timing/clutch casing, and the procedure for
adjustment is covered in the Handbook on pages 55-57
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HTML https://app.box.com/s/hg3dpt09mr1agab0htuj8r35sa7naczt
If not adjusted correctly, gears will be (even more) difficult
to engage, and neutral hard to find.
Careful removing the cover to avoid upsetting the valve timing:
"<H2>Removing the timing-side engine cover</H2>
<P>This too was written by the omniscient Mike
Whyte-Venables</P>
<P>Remove the clutch cable, and pull the connecter off the oil
pressure sensor.
Remove the oil filler/dipstick. Take the points cover off and
remove all the
bits, leaving just the bare shaft.</P>
<P>This shaft has a 22m nut that is peened down into a slot in
the shaft to lock
it against rotation. Use a very small chisel or narro
screwdriver to prise the
dimpled bit up out of the groove.</P>
<P>Take a 22mm EXTENDED socket and a fairly long handle. Give
the end a sharp
wack or tug to loosen the nut against the engine compression.
The metal disk
behind it may also come out if you use your fingernails
carefully.</P>
<P>Pull on the clutch arm to break the seal of the cover. Take a
piece of wood,
and tap the end of the points shaft while pulling on the cover.
You are
persuading the bearing to slide off the shaft and stay inside
the cover. If you
do not do this, the points shaft gear will come out of
engagement with the
crankshaft gear, and you will have to retime the engine. This is
a good thing to
avoid as it involves much relaxation and at least a Sunday
morning to
re-time"
If you're in there to make the adjustment, it makes sense to fit
a new return spring at the same time. IIRC, the return spring
from the twins fits, and is cheap.
Apparently, the gearboxes have a reputation for being very badly
assembled, and benefit from being correctly shimmed. There's an
article on that here, although it's not for the faint hearted...
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