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#Post#: 1900--------------------------------------------------
Carb set up? very poor running
By: JonathanCollier Date: April 15, 2017, 10:29 am
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Hi there, new to me falcone is really testing me and my
patience. I'm finding it to be very difficult to start and it
has a very poor and erratic idle, plenty of coughs and farts
when running especially at low throttle openings but confusingly
also at heavier throttle but not consistent. The idle adjustment
is extremely sensitive, either idling too high or engine dying
off to stall without a tweek of the throttle to keep it running,
rpm also takes awhile to settle again after the throttle tweek.
Its driving me mad, I've tried the idle fuel adjustment at
alsorts of positions but no joy at getting a decent idle. Carb
has been cleaned multiple times now, jets cleaned and clear.
FAter spending most of the day trying to get this right I'm at
my wits end, any ideas fellow Falcone-ists?
#Post#: 1903--------------------------------------------------
Re: Carb set up? very poor running
By: banquo Date: April 16, 2017, 2:00 am
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"Most carburation faults are electrical" someone once said....
Your's might be too.
There's a possible clue in what you're saying. Hard to start AND
hard to idle AND sometimes at higher RPM.
The NF engine should never be hard to start, and should always
start first kick from cold.
The enrichener circuit is completely separate from the rest and
of course the idling ciorcuit has nothing to do with the main
jet or needle, so having problems in all three areas might point
to something else. It did on mine, and it turned out the coil
was faulty.
If you still have the original Bosch coil, I'd suggest you check
that first. Mine had a spark, but it wasn't a big fat blue one
like it should have been, and the plug was getting fouled up
with the resultant bad running, convincing me wrongly that the
mixture was the issue. Capacitor could be another culprit.
If it does turn out to be carburettor, the idling issue could be
a partial blockage of one of the internal drillings, and that
would be very difficult to resolve. When you say it's been
cleaned, was it done in an ultrasonic bath, or just washed and
blown out? However, it's hard to think of any carb. problem that
would affect running on all 3 circuits, and your description
doesn't point to the carburettor as the issue.
#Post#: 1904--------------------------------------------------
Re: Carb set up? very poor running
By: huub Date: April 16, 2017, 4:04 am
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plenty of coughs and farts and hard starting sounds like too
much advance on the ignition.
either the setting is off or you might want to check the advance
mechanism.
#Post#: 1909--------------------------------------------------
Re: Carb set up? very poor running
By: JonathanCollier Date: April 17, 2017, 8:32 am
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Thanks for the replies gents, I'm going down the route you have
suggested and think the same way now. I had some time yesterday
on it and initial investigation looks like static timing is out
a little, I did have a couple of vicious kickbacks which has
also buggered the KS return spring (joy), points don't look
burnt but whilst everything is in bits I think I'll go for
renewal of points and condensor, many of the items fitted look
to be original parts not sure about the coil but I did try a
mini one which I happen to have in the shed but it didn't make
any real difference. If its a clue, the running seems to get
progressively worse over time, I'm thinking condensor issues or
perhaps both coils that ive tried are duff and get poorly as
they get hot. New coil on order, hunting for points and
condensor now. It'll be lovely when it is running ;D
#Post#: 1911--------------------------------------------------
Re: Carb set up? very poor running
By: banquo Date: April 17, 2017, 9:10 am
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When my coil was breaking down, it either wouldn't start, or got
progressively worse over time (as the plug fouled up probably).
Condenser could have the same results though.
Did you check that the autoadvance/retard on the points plate is
moving freely, and springs are functioning (as huub suggested)?
If you're starting technique is correct, there is no opportunity
for kick back.
From cold -
Ignition off; full choke.
Bring to top dead centre (compression) lift the valve lifter,
and ease over.
Give one swing to load the cylinder with fuel.
Back to compression, ease over TDC with the lifter.
Ignition on.
One swing should start it now.
As you are over TDC on the power stroke, there's nearly 2
revolutions before the spark, so no kick back.
From hot -
Identical procedure, but no choke.
The kick start spring is a flywheel off job, but can be done
with it in place, by removing the rear engine mounts and tilting
the engine forward, so the quadrant clears the frame.
There are tips in the Paul Friday download on how to do that.
NLM had a new spring when mine broke. Also on eBay periodically,
and from European suppliers.
Like you say, it will be great when it's finished.
#Post#: 1912--------------------------------------------------
Re: Carb set up? very poor running
By: JonathanCollier Date: April 18, 2017, 2:09 am
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Thanks Banquo, very helpful indeed I certainly wasn't following
'the method' for starting, as you may have gathered I'm a novice
when it comes to kick starts and points ignition! I've had lots
and lots of modern bikes over the years and several KS two
stroke trials bikes, the last time I set points was on a 2CV
about 25 years ago ::)
I'll be pulling the flywheel soon to change the V belt which Ive
just noticed is cracked, so KS spring to be ordered as well and
fitted as well.
It is quite nice to be getting stuck into these maintenance
things and learning about the bike, it'll give me confidence to
really use the bike and to know what tools to bring. I'm really
looking forward to chugging around Wales on it this summer.
Advance weights are free, I reset the points gap and timing last
night. One thing to mention, as I rolled the engine over by hand
to the 10 deg mark and checked for co-incidence of points
opening with a multi-meter, there was some sparking, is this a
symptom of bad condenser as well? Points weren't burnt or pitted
though.
#Post#: 1913--------------------------------------------------
Re: Carb set up? very poor running
By: banquo Date: April 18, 2017, 5:24 am
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You don't need to remove the flywheel to change the belt.
Just slacken off the dynamo bolts and move it down as far as it
will go; the correct belt is long enough to slip over the
flywheel.
Some spark at the points is normal, but that doesn't mean the
condenser is OK, they can fail due to dielectric failure, and
short to earth, and are notorious for intermittent faults.
#Post#: 1914--------------------------------------------------
Re: Carb set up? very poor running
By: JonathanCollier Date: April 18, 2017, 10:06 am
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Hmm the plot thickens, the belt fitted at the moment won't go
over the flywheel (270mm diameter) so more investigation needed
there. I thought at the time that it was a silly design, I think
I'll snip off the existing one and take it to my local supplier
to try and get a match at a slightly longer length, once again
thanks for the very pertinent info!
#Post#: 1915--------------------------------------------------
Re: Carb set up? very poor running
By: banquo Date: April 18, 2017, 10:39 am
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Before you do that, you are fitting the belt as far behind the
flywheel as you can before trying to get the rest over?
I can't remember what order I did mine in, but it was something
like slip it over the bottom of the flywheel, and pull it up
until it's engaged on the flywheel pulley, then slip the top of
the belt over the top of the flywheel.
It won't fit straight over, if that's what you're trying to
do...
I got new belts from Halfords old stock a couple of years back;
cheap as chips too.
There will be references on here somewhere I think, if you
search for belt
#Post#: 1927--------------------------------------------------
Re: Carb set up? very poor running
By: cloggy Date: April 23, 2017, 8:21 am
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I got a belt from North Leicester Motorcycles. It just fitted
with the dynamo on full slack. there was no way it or the old
one would fit round the flywheel. Not to say a correct length
one would not have. I followed NLM's advice and used a cold
chisel on the lock ring, though as other's have said it doesn't
work for everyone. The main faff was having to order a socket
for the flywheel nut. I also got a condenser and points from
NLM. I have never fitted the points but it needed the condenser.
Apparently if the sparks arc from the nose straight to the outer
body threads and NOT by means of the plug gap, the condenser is
knackered. Mine did and was.
My timing was out as far as it's possible to be on the backing
plate but luckily there was a scribed mark on it so all I had to
do was line it up, perfection... er once I'd realised that the
advance retard springs were slack, leading to too much advance
early on and a racing tickover. I was told Commando springs fit,
but they don't; so presently I've wrapped childrens elastic
bands round the spring bollards and sheathed the spring hooks in
electric cable sheathing..... AND SO IT GOES [Slaughter House 5
]. I was going to Stafford today to try and source some springs
but could't find my AA card/mobile so didn't ; actually I'd
forgotten about the springs as well. Seven bags of rubbish
later I found it, but not my cordless beard trimmer. Advancing
years....
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