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       #Post#: 1056--------------------------------------------------
       Carburettors
       By: Falconefan Date: October 1, 2015, 1:20 pm
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       Hi Everyone,
       Just in case you don't visit the other place, here is a
       duplicate post of mine:
       Well, I’ve been doing some research into carburettors fitted
       to the NF’s and have found some interesting snippets (I must
       have too much free time!) particularly involving the differences
       between the Civilian and Military models.
       I came across a web site
       (
  HTML http://www.thisoldtractor.com/topics.html
       ) which has various
       Guzzi handbooks for both models and in several editions, and
       also Dell ‘Orto data.
       Both models use Dell ‘Orto 29mm carburettors with 265
       Atomizer and 80 cold start jets.
       The Military model has a VHB (A) carb, with a #60 slide, a
       132 main jet, a 50 idle jet, and a V10 needle.
       The Civilian model has a VHB (CD) carb, with a #50 slide, a
       122 main jet, a 55 idle jet and a V5 needle.
       So, what are the differences? The main one seems to be that
       the VHB (CD) carb has a piston type accelerator pump, the VHB
       (A) does not.
       Comparing the two carburettors up to about a quarter
       throttle, although the Military carb has effectively a larger
       opening because the V10 needle is slightly smaller in diameter,
       the #60 slide has more cut-up which will result in a lower
       vacuum and so draw in less fuel. In the case of the Civilian
       bike, although the needle is slightly larger in diameter and so
       restricts the atomizer jet more, the idle jet is also larger,
       and as the #50 slide has less cut-up, the increased vacuum will
       suck through more fuel. I am inclined to think that one set-up
       balances pretty evenly with the other at these small throttle
       openings.
       As the throttle is opened up between a quarter and three
       quarters, the tapered needle takes over the fuel metering. The
       V10 needle has a shorter taper than the V5 and at both extremes,
       the figures imply that the Civilian bike runs slightly leaner
       than the Military at constant speed. The Civilian will get
       enrichment during the actual turning of the twist grip because
       of the accelerator pump.
       Above three quarters opening the main jet is responsible,
       again the Civilian running leaner than the Military.
       It could be that as the Military bike would generally be
       used on slow patrol and escort work with a restricted flow of
       cooling air, it was decided to run it with a richer mixture to
       avoid over heating, while the Civilian model could run leaner as
       it would generally be out on the open road. In this case the
       pumper carb would also be an advantage.
       So, why the interest and calculating? Well, as some of you
       know, when I bought my Military NF, it came fitted with a 30mm
       VHB(CD) carb. The throttle slide cut-away (a #40) implies that
       it came off a Sparda. Following suggestions given in a printed
       download that came with the bike, the carb had been fitted with
       a 55 idle jet and although the suggestion was for a 140 main jet
       it was actually fitted with a huge 145; the print-out having
       been amended in pencil. There was no reasoning given for these
       recommendations – they were just stated as starting points for
       experimentation. The standard jets for the Sparda is a 125 main,
       a 50 idle and a V9 needle, together with a 265 atomiser, one
       carb filling a 500cc cylinder. Bearing in mind the low cut-up of
       the slide, the 50 idle jet should be perfectly good.
       Where to now? I did 250 miles last weekend going to the
       MGCGB AGM, and was slightly disappointed that getting above
       60mph was pretty impossible, even though it was delightful
       pottering along at 45 to 55. I think I will take the original
       carb off to inspect it, clean it and check wear on the atomiser
       and needle. If I need to order new parts I will also get a
       couple of new jets for the 30mm carb and do some experimentation
       with that, particularly as I intend to use it on the open road
       rather than patrol work! I don't think the extra millimetre will
       make much difference!
       Just as an aside, in all the manuals I have recently seen
       the tappet clearances have been given as 0.1 and 0.2mm rather
       than 0.05 and 0.1. Perhaps the experience of valve burning
       prompted the change?
       Best wishes,
       Susie
       #Post#: 1058--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Carburettors
       By: cloggy Date: October 2, 2015, 6:44 am
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       The tappet clearances open up as the engine warms. The only
       specialist dealer I know sets them up no clearance cold. As I
       can't get to both pushrods to check if they are rotating I just
       set them up with smallest amount of play I could feel
       #Post#: 1059--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Carburettors
       By: huub Date: October 2, 2015, 11:54 am
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       [quote]The tappet clearances open up as the engine warms. The
       only specialist dealer I know sets them up no clearance cold. As
       I can't get to both pushrods to check if they are rotating I
       just set them up with smallest amount of play I could
       feel[/quote]
       try kickstarting your NF after a fast highway run , you will
       find it has hardly any compression left
       the  tappet clearances actually close when the engine heats up.
       i have seen enough burned exhaust valves , i keep my valves at
       the lose end .
       #Post#: 1060--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Carburettors
       By: Kater Date: October 2, 2015, 3:33 pm
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       The 0,2 and 0,1 mm are for the cold engine! Huub is right, it's
       better to be on the loose side.
       A lot of "so called specialists" like to have a silent engine
       and burn down the valves, absolutely crazy.
       Kater
       #Post#: 1064--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Carburettors
       By: banquo Date: October 3, 2015, 7:51 am
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       Back to the OP, is it not correct that the Civile has a lighter
       flywheel than the Militare?
       My seat of the pants take on this is in terms of engine
       responsiveness.
       I have a pumper carb. and loaned it to another local Militare
       owner, who found no benefit.
       My belief, simple and naive perhaps, is that there is no point
       in having a pumper on a motor with such huge inertia.
       If you throw a whole lot of fuel in there, and the engine cannot
       respond fast enough to accept it, it will do no good at all.
       If (any my memory isn't as good as it once was) the Civile has a
       smaller rotating mass, then possibly it can benefit in terms of
       responsiveness from a pump?
       Surprisingly, the NF engine does seem to be very sensistive to
       exhaust back pressure too, and it will choke up at the top end
       if the gases don't flow freely. With the original double dcker
       fitted, mine would happily run at 70 mph on the flat, with a
       fully baffled pipe, it choked up at 50 mph, and with the current
       pipe, a stock Harley pipe with a square point chisel through the
       baffles, it's a bit weak at the top end.
       Fitting a pattern (not K&N) air filter resulted in it not
       wanting to run much above 1/4 throttle, which was a surprise.
       I must spend some ime messing about with main jets to see what
       happens, but life's too short...
       #Post#: 1067--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Carburettors
       By: Kater Date: October 3, 2015, 12:49 pm
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       It's a fairy tale that the Civile has a lighterflywheel! The
       advantage of the pump is that you get a more fat mixture when
       you accelerate, I proved it with a lambda sonde. I use it for
       adjusting the carburettors, the crazy fact is that each of my
       engines need different needles and jets with the same type of
       carburettor. But I have to say that both are modified, bigger
       bore, an other camshaft and so on. I have an original NF
       military and this one don't won't to go faster the 60 mph too.
       The original air filter of the NF works better than the most
       modifications, that's a fact my late friend and falcone
       specialist George me told.
       #Post#: 1068--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Carburettors
       By: banquo Date: October 3, 2015, 1:32 pm
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       ;D Told you my memory wasn't much good Kater!
       Thanks for correcting the myth!
       Actually, it does make sense, because opening the throttle too
       quickly on the Militare causes spoit back through the
       carburettor, presumably caused by weakness, that the pump would
       overcome...?
       #Post#: 1070--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Carburettors
       By: Nitram Date: October 4, 2015, 3:56 pm
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       I've been interested in the subject of accelerator pumps on
       carbys since I first came across the Dell-Orto pumpers fitted to
       my 860 Ducati.
       Why is it that they are there at all ? Obviously it squirts a
       stiff dose of pure fuel as the slide opens, grossly enrichening
       the mixture as it does. But when the throttle is steady the
       mixture is controlled by whichever jets are relevant for that
       throttle position.
       But what I wonder is why MOST carburetors, from old Amals and
       Bings, to modern Mikuni and Keihin flat slides, get by fine
       without pumps. And similarly, although virtually all (non
       fuel-injected) car engines have accelerator pump carbs, the
       traditional choice of car hot-up folk when I got old enough to
       notice, was the SU which was a CV carb, with no accelerator
       pumps.
       Even on the same engine. So it's not that some engines have some
       tendency to be lean when accelerating from idle, needing a
       pumper to fix, because you an fit a non-pumper to a Ducati and
       with correct jetting it will accelerate off idle just fine. And
       BMWs are another good example, because some of the 1980s
       R-series bikes has Dell-Orto pumpers, and some have the CV
       Bings..........
       Wikipedia says:
       "Liquid gasoline, being denser than air, is slower than air to
       react to a force applied to it. When the throttle is rapidly
       opened, airflow through the carburetor increases immediately,
       faster than the fuel flow rate can increase. This transient
       oversupply of air causes a lean mixture, which makes the engine
       misfire (or "stumble")—an effect opposite what was demanded by
       opening the throttle. This is remedied by the use of a small
       piston or diaphragm pump which, when actuated by the throttle
       linkage, forces a small amount of gasoline through a jet into
       the carburetor throat.[13] This extra shot of fuel counteracts
       the transient lean condition on throttle tip-in."
       But that doesn't explain why so many motorbike carbs get by
       without a pump. A bloke told me once that a non-pumper slide
       carb actually performs a function not unlike a pumper, in that
       when you open the throttle quickly from idle, the needle, which
       has been (when the slide is down) sitting in the needle jet
       immersed in fuel, drags up with it a quantity of raw fuel to
       enrichen the mixture during the time when the throttle is open
       and the revs start to build- which is just what the pumper does.
       But then, that phenomena (of the needle drawing up some raw
       fuel) must also happen with pumper carbs so they should get a
       double dose............
       So, I don't know the answer.......... But I do have another
       question........... Bikes with pumper carbs (really Ducati
       V-Twins are my only experience) can be quite economical, despite
       the fact that there's this big gush of fuel squirted in every
       time you open the throttle, whereas my BMW G/S gets appalling
       economy, despite having these supposedly efficient CV-type
       Bings......
       Its all a bit of a mystery.....
       Nitram ??? ???
       #Post#: 1072--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Carburettors
       By: cloggy Date: October 6, 2015, 4:20 am
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       Whatever, my tappets start off quiet then get louder as the
       engine warms up. I've frequently checked compression after
       extended thrashing and the compression hasn't diminished nor has
       the noise....... I haven't set them at no clearance as advised
       #Post#: 1073--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Carburettors
       By: Falconefan Date: October 6, 2015, 11:36 am
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       Hi Guys,
       The only reference I have come across regarding the different
       flywheels is in the workshop manual.  It refers to (and has
       photos)  flywheels of 270mm and 225mm diameters - both shown in
       the 'miliatary' manual.
       I must say that the 30mm pumper (simple piston type on the VHB
       C) was much more responsive to a handfull of twist-grip.  The
       VHB A has a notable hesitation when opening up, so I might go
       back to it but play about with the jetting  and slide.  As it
       was, I was gassing anyone following behind me.  All that had
       been done, was the main and idle jet replaced with larger ones,
       without any regard to the needle or slide cut-up.
       On a different note - that of fork oil.  I spoke to a guy in the
       technical dept of a lubricant firm regarding Shell Tellus 33.
       He confirmed my findings that it is now Tellus 68 (the
       difference is between pre ISO and ISO ratings) and is at the top
       end of SAE 20 - double that that I have read suggesting 10W fork
       oil.  The good news is that rather than buying 205 litres of it,
       you can get a single litre through good old eBay here:
  HTML http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300854448851?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
       Essentially, he said that any ISO 68 mineral based hydraulic oil
       with a zinc wear additive will be fine.
       Best wishes,
       Susie
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