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       #Post#: 812--------------------------------------------------
       Re: New member says hello
       By: banquo Date: June 10, 2015, 6:46 am
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       No such thing as a pest on here..  ;)
       I suspect that the issue is more than the cable.
       I still have the original cable on mine, although I bought a
       spare from NLM that hasn't been fitted yet.
       My cable also springs a bit, and it will come right back, almost
       to the bar if pulled hard.
       However, it's never been so bad as to worry me, and it's more to
       do with how much I have to wind the adjuster out to prevent
       binding.
       I get excellent results on the brake test at the MOT, always
       managing to lock the wheel.
       If your front shoes are new, they won't be bedded into the drum,
       and that will take some time, especially as the shoes won't have
       been machined to match the exact drum diameter.
       If the cable is a good match to the lever (so there's not too
       much slop between the nipple and the locator) it may just be
       that the linings need bedded in.
       One other point; check the orientation of the brake arms on the
       backplate splines. They should be just shy of vertical, so they
       pass through vertical at about mid lever travel, to minimise the
       force required for maximum braking effort.
       My front brake was practically useless on delivery, but after
       bedding in, adjusting the lever position, and the TLS adjuster,
       it's now pretty good.
       You can obtain a new cable from NLM (I did that, because my
       nipple soldering results have never been good) but I don't know
       if that will be any better than what you have.
       If you're into making your own, then supplies are available
       here:
  HTML http://www.motorcycleproducts.co.uk/cable-accessories-c-334.html
  HTML http://www.motorcycleproducts.co.uk/cable-accessories-c-334.html
       and here:
  HTML http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/section.php/82/1/motorcycle-parts
  HTML http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/section.php/82/1/motorcycle-parts
       I see the cables are available in up to 2.5mm diameter, and that
       would be a lot tougher than a 2mm.
       Also, Venhill will make up a cable to your specifications:
  HTML http://www.venhill.co.uk/Hoses_&_Cables_-_Custom
  HTML http://www.venhill.co.uk/Hoses_&_Cables_-_Custom
       One final point: all cables should be supplied pre-stretched,
       and the manufacture should involve a stretching process (as an
       aside, I used to do work for Bruntons in Musselburgh who made
       the cables for the Forth Road Bridge, and they had a railway
       that disappeared underground, to which they attached one end of
       each cable, and drove it along the rails until fully stretched).
       I suspect many cables now come from China or India, and not from
       the old sources we're used to, and it could be that the new
       cable you have needs to stretch a bit before it settles down.
       You could always suspend it from the roof, and hang a heavy
       weight on it!
       #Post#: 813--------------------------------------------------
       Re: New member says hello
       By: Bruno Date: June 10, 2015, 1:03 pm
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       I would be wary of making making cables,especially brake
       cables.The failure of cables at the nipple are not normally due
       to the soldering,it tends to be that the inner cable has not
       been prepared properly.How do I know? I used to work at Venhill
       Engineering,and have made thousands of cables!.We used to cast
       the nipples onto the inners (I was the only person who used to
       do it when I was there,and I have the scars to prove it! Molten
       zinc alloy squirting out of the die is bloody painful!) all
       inner cables,soldered or cast,where clamped and the end struck
       by a ram to 'birdcage' the strands.This shaping of the inners
       strands is what really holds the nipple on and the solder is
       really just a filler.
       I have a massive front brake cable on my Ambassador but it is
       still a poor brake.As one expert said,'how can a brake so big
       work so bad!'
       The NF brake is much better.
       I would suggest talking to Venhill and asking for a heavy duty
       cable.They may ask you to send them the original as a pattern or
       supply dimensions.
       #Post#: 815--------------------------------------------------
       Re: New member says hello
       By: cryospeed1 Date: June 11, 2015, 1:51 am
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       Hi Once again thanks for the information and advice. Ideally I
       would like to know what the original levers look like, then try
       to get hold of some and take the cable issue forward with
       Venhill . Having the proper levers will mean I can tell them the
       dimensions for ferrule and barrel nipple. If I get a venhill
       cable to suit the current levers and then get hold of the proper
       ones it might be back to square one again. I suppose plan B
       could be to just replace both levers and handlebar electrics
       with Royal Enfield stuff. Then get cables made up to suit.
       Thanks again for the help
       John
       #Post#: 816--------------------------------------------------
       Re: New member says hello
       By: Bruno Date: June 11, 2015, 2:53 am
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       I should have also mentioned,a Bowden (motorcycle) cable
       normally flexes not because the inner stretches but because the
       outer cable compresses
       #Post#: 817--------------------------------------------------
       Re: New member says hello
       By: Bruno Date: June 11, 2015, 3:18 am
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       [URL=
  HTML http://s128.photobucket.com/user/bruno1955/media/levers%20006.jpg.html][IMG]http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p194/bruno1955/levers%20006.jpg[/img][/URL]
       [URL=
  HTML http://s128.photobucket.com/user/bruno1955/media/levers%20007.jpg.html][IMG]http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p194/bruno1955/levers%20007.jpg[/img][/URL]
       [URL=
  HTML http://s128.photobucket.com/user/bruno1955/media/levers%20008.jpg.html][IMG]http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p194/bruno1955/levers%20008.jpg[/img][/URL]
       [URL=
  HTML http://s128.photobucket.com/user/bruno1955/media/levers%20009.jpg.html][IMG]http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p194/bruno1955/levers%20009.jpg[/img][/URL]
       [URL=
  HTML http://s128.photobucket.com/user/bruno1955/media/levers%20010.jpg.html][IMG]http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p194/bruno1955/levers%20010.jpg[/img][/URL]
       Sorry about the focus,my camera is playing up.The nipple on the
       brake lever end is 9mm diameter and 9mm long.It is a loose
       barrel on a cast trumpet nipple.The brake lever is marked
       'Tommaselli'
       #Post#: 820--------------------------------------------------
       Re: New member says hello
       By: banquo Date: June 11, 2015, 8:21 am
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       [quote author=Bruno link=topic=134.msg816#msg816
       date=1434009193]
       I should have also mentioned,a Bowden (motorcycle) cable
       normally flexes not because the inner stretches but because the
       outer cable compresses
       [/quote]
       You know Bruno, now that you have revealed that titbit, it's
       incredibly obvious, but I had never even considered it.
       Thanks for that!
       #Post#: 822--------------------------------------------------
       Re: New member says hello
       By: cryospeed1 Date: June 11, 2015, 8:42 am
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       Thanks for the info and pictures. I have been doing a bit of
       surfing this morning and their were two brake levers by
       Tomaselli in the states. There is also a bloke selling the
       complete clutch and decompressor assembly NOS which he believes
       is off a Ducatti but looks very like the one on my NF. On having
       a look in Europe these a motor factor in Poland who is doing
       copies except his have  the finger grooves but with the ball
       end. I have ordered a pair of the levers and as they are pretty
       cheap they may not be fantastic bit I wont know till they
       arrive.
       The dynamo is off and the broken end bracket removed and with
       the welder. The commutator is hardly worn and the brushes are as
       new. The bearings look good too. How do you get the brush end
       completely off? There is a screw on the body but if thats
       removed I cant see how you would get the brush holder back in.
       #Post#: 825--------------------------------------------------
       Re: New member says hello
       By: banquo Date: June 11, 2015, 2:32 pm
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       No idea on the dynamo I'm afraid...
       I had a look at my levers in the garage tonight, and they have
       the ball ends and the finger grooves. They were on it when I got
       it, and verty second hand, so i doubt if they're pattern parts.
       Your levers seem to look the part.
       #Post#: 826--------------------------------------------------
       Re: New member says hello
       By: cryospeed1 Date: June 11, 2015, 2:48 pm
       ---------------------------------------------------------
       Hi when they arrive I will try and put a picture of them on here
       with contact details.
       #Post#: 827--------------------------------------------------
       Re: New member says hello
       By: Bruno Date: June 11, 2015, 2:56 pm
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       I seem to remember years ago when Tommaselli levers were
       available in loads of bike shops in the UK,that you could choose
       between smooth or finger grooved ones.
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