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#Post#: 789--------------------------------------------------
Re: New member says hello
By: banquo Date: June 6, 2015, 3:42 pm
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[quote author=cryospeed1 link=topic=134.msg779#msg779
date=1433597222]
Hi Banquo yes a long round trip in lousy weather but well worth
it. George is a gentleman and a pleasure to deal with. I have
had the bike running today and have had a couple of rides around
the block on it. Starts easily I have done some little jobs
already. Fpr MOT I need to get the front brake working a bit
more effectively,fit the new light switch George gave me and get
the back brake light working. Longer term I want to check the
tappet clearances as it sounds a bit clattery (maybes they all
do ) Longer term its a repaint as it is currently a mix of black
and green. George gave me a carb rebuild kit too so thats
another job on the list. I have put the old double exhaust back
on and it sounds wonderful. As George advised me there are a few
other odds and ends to sort out which will get done over time.
Great bike and thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
[/quote]
Here's the stuff about the valve gear (from Paul Friday's old
site)
I wondered if some previous owner had fitted the rockers and
spring loaded spacers the wrong way around?
Interesting stuff about the oil feed too.
best,
Jake
Originally Posted by banquo View Post
Just came across this from Paul Friday:
The Valve Gear
Pushrod operation. The camshaft is arranged with the lobes
side-by-side, and the valves are of course one above the other.
This means that the pushrods cross on their way up the side of
the cylinder.
The inner lobe of the camshaft - nearest the piston - is the
inlet.
The rockers run on shafts that run across the rocker box. The
shafts are drilled from one end up the centre, to supply oil to
the rocker bearings. Each rocker has two bushes pressed in at
the ends, that run on the rocker shaft.
Both rockers have their endfloat taken-up by a spring with a
shim washer on each side. Due to the thrust of the pushrods
being in different directions, each rocker has the spring on a
different end. The inlet rocker has the spring at the valve end,
the exhaust rocker has it at the pushrod end.
The inlet rocker shaft has an arrangement to deliver oil to the
stem of the inlet valve. If you look carefully at the bearing
surface of the rocker shaft furthest from the threaded end, you
will see a milled flat. This runs lengthwise on the shaft. It
provides a small gap to allow oil through from the high-pressure
area between the bushes in the centre of the rocker. The line of
the milling will probably be in line with one end of the slot
cut in the large end of the rocker shaft - the end without the
threads. Mark the outer face of the end of the shaft or mark
which end of the slot is in line with the milling.
Now take a look at the inlet rocker. On the valve end you will
find a slot cut across the end face. This must line-up with the
milling on the rocker shaft when assembled. This slot takes the
oil fed down the milling and leads it out towards the inlet
valve stem. When you reassemble the rocker box and cylinder
head, turn the engine over until the inlet valve is closed. Use
a large screwdriver to turn the inlet rocker shaft to line-up
the milling with the slot in the end of the rocker - you should
be able to see the slot with the rocker box cover off. This will
ensure that there is an oil flow when the valve is closed and
there is little pressure on the rocker bushes. When the valve
opens, the slot will rotate away from the milling and
(hopefully) the rocker bushes will enjoy full oil pressure.
The exhaust rocker shaft has the same milling, but it is not
important. As all the oil from the rocker gear drains out past
the exhaust valve, there is no problem with lubrication.
Aligning the valve gear
Take particular care when you put the rockers back together that
the valve-opening fingers are properly over the ends of the
valve stems. Use a torch to check, after the rockers and
pushrods are assembled and the nuts at the end of the rockers
spindles are pulled-up tight. You may have to play with
different thicknesses of shim washers on the ends of the rockers
spindles, but do take care that the springs used to allow a bit
of end float do not become coil-bound. If (when) you drop a shim
washer down into the pocket around the valve stem and spring,
use one of those tools with a magnet on the end of a thin rod to
retrieve it.
#Post#: 797--------------------------------------------------
Re: New member says hello
By: cryospeed1 Date: June 8, 2015, 12:17 pm
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Once again thanks for the information. All gratefully received.
So far I have rewired the rear lights and replaced the handlebar
switch which has soldered connections.Those were needed as I
want to get the bike MOT d this week so I can start using it.
Discovered the mounting for the dynamo at the back of the
flywheel is cracked and the belt has a split in it. Am i right
in thinking the dynamo bracket is mild steel in which case I
will be able to weld it up. If its cast then it a job for my
local specialist welder. The belt I think is a Ford Fiesta so I
will take the old one to our local car shop.
#Post#: 800--------------------------------------------------
Re: New member says hello
By: banquo Date: June 8, 2015, 3:19 pm
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Not sure which bracket you mean? The long straight adjustment
bracket, or part of the dynamo itself?
I would guess the adjustment bracket can be welded, but would
expect the rest to be cast.
I managed to get a belt from Halfords. it's old stock, but was a
fitment for various Fiats and some Fords I think.
It's an HB675b, and if you have trouble getting one, I have some
in the garage (somewhere) because I bought a few.
On the plus side, when I replaced mine it had clearly been held
together by only the outer webbing for quite some time!
#Post#: 803--------------------------------------------------
Re: New member says hello
By: cryospeed1 Date: June 9, 2015, 5:36 am
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Hi thanks for the reply. It is the bracket that is part of the
dynamo and I think it will be cast in which case its a welder
job. I have had a look on the internet to see if I could find
any Bosch parts but it just the usual consumables that seem to
be available. Thanks for the belt number as it is still quoted
as a Halfords part but our local car shop may be able to match
it up for me. The nick in the belt and the cracked bracket do
not seem to be effecting it so I am pressing on with the lights
so I can get an MOT. I am thinking a new belt will require
flywheel removal. It looks from what I have read that the
spanner for the removal can be fabricated at home.
Another query refers to the centre stand which seem to go a long
way over when down and does not allow the wheels to be off the
ground. I am guessing that something which limits the travel is
worn or missing any advice welcome please. Thanks
#Post#: 804--------------------------------------------------
Re: New member says hello
By: banquo Date: June 9, 2015, 6:26 am
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Belt goes on without taking flywheel off, which is just as well,
as it can be difficult to remove it. Mine has resisted several
attempts, although some come off on their own (and the engine
still runs without!).
Bummer about the bracket. I actually have a spare dynamo, but I
don't really want to break it. Also have a spare centre stand,
so should be able to check it and take some pix. Unfortunately
it's 30 miles away, so need to wait until I'm next there. Tonya
made me a removal tool, and yes, it can be made at home,
although it helps if you have a lathe. I have an article on
replacing the centre stand, but it doesn't cover anything about
the stops.
#Post#: 805--------------------------------------------------
Re: New member says hello
By: Nuffield Date: June 9, 2015, 7:48 am
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I had the same trouble with my center stand, it was a
combination of worn pivot bolts and holes, and flats worn on the
bottom of the curved feet. The stops were fine.
I drilled the holes in the stand and frame brackets slightly
larger to remove the ovality then made new pivot bolts to fit (I
have use of a lathe at work), the stand feet I built up with
weld and then reshaped with the angle grinder.
I can now lube and adjust the chain without having to put a
block of wood under the stand. :)
Nick.
#Post#: 806--------------------------------------------------
Re: New member says hello
By: banquo Date: June 9, 2015, 10:59 am
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For what it's worth (not a lot) here's the article on the centre
stand replacement:
HTML https://app.box.com/s/9dya7wdfnkfmy8omfrzhdjyirbdn5hjy
HTML https://app.box.com/s/9dya7wdfnkfmy8omfrzhdjyirbdn5hjy
#Post#: 808--------------------------------------------------
Re: New member says hello
By: cryospeed1 Date: June 9, 2015, 3:12 pm
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HI and Thanks for the info much appreciated. Our local car
spares place had a belt hanging up so looks like that one can be
ticked off the list.
#Post#: 809--------------------------------------------------
Re: New member says hello
By: cryospeed1 Date: June 10, 2015, 5:24 am
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Sorry to be a pest! Need help again. Had a go at adjusting the
front brake last night. The brake pivot is original Nuovo. The
lever is an after market item. The cable fitted by george is
brand new. George has fitted new linings and he adjusted the
brake fine and when you pull it the wheel stops and prevents
forward movement. The problem is the cable is made of elastic
and just keeps stretching all the way back to the handlebars.
Taking all the adjustment out and it does the same. I tried
fitting the old clutch cable which is heavier gauge cable but
the barrel is too wide and too deep for the recess in the lever.
I have tried to replace the whole thing with the one of my
enfield but again the barrel is too big on the old clutch cable.
The enfield cable is different. I had the same issue with the
enfield which was cured by a heavy duty cable from Hitchcocks.
Does anyone know of a source of front brake cables that have no
elastic content.
The good news is the new light switch now works after bending
the copper strip upover on the dip section.
Onwards and upwards
#Post#: 811--------------------------------------------------
Re: New member says hello
By: huub Date: June 10, 2015, 5:51 am
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i had the same problem with the handle touching the handlebars
as soon as i squeezed hard.
i did try several different cambles , including homemade heavy
duty ones.
after changing the cable a couple of times i gave up, and
modified the brake cams, building the faces with weld.
i have a amazingly good brake now. Much better than the 4LS in
the v7sport has ever been.
be careful after riding in the rain , the inside of the drum
rusts , and the first time you apply the front brake it will
lock the wheel.
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