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#Post#: 628--------------------------------------------------
Steering Head and Forks
By: banquo Date: March 25, 2015, 7:54 am
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You would think as I approach 61 years old that I would have
learned by now that short cuts are rarely shorter, but in a
spirit of eternal optimism and impatience I continue to blunder
around in the hope that I will find some simple way around the
self imposed problems thus created, before finally accepting
that it would be easier to do it the right way in the first
place. The job was to fix a long standing problem with the front
right tank fixing, which has been stripped since I got the bike
back in '02. The short (13 year) term solution was to wire the
bolt in place, because, as you will have noticed, Moto-Guzzi's
solution to the provision of a fitting involved the welding of
an M8 nut to each side of the steering head. In my infinite
wisdom, I had assumed this was a blind fitting, and too shallow
to Helicoil, and decided the only solution would be to grind off
the old nut, and weld on a new one, involving getting the
machine along to someone who could carry that out. It was Tonya
(a man who never takes a short cut, because he's a quicker
learner than I) who pointed out that the steering head was
drilled through, behind the nut, so there was nothing to stop a
rethread being done. A quick torch inspection proved it, and
what I thought was the outer surface of the head, was actually
the axle of the steering stem, quickly proven by watching it
move with a twitch of the handlebars. Idiot.
So, here's the offending nut, smooth as a virgin's thigh, and
the axle beyond:
[URL=
HTML http://s21.photobucket.com/user/bancquo/media/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/crop_zpsy9dt4dfh.jpg.html][IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/bancquo/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/crop_zpsy9dt4dfh.jpg[/img][/URL]
If I'd been looking for a real shortcut, I'd have drilled and
tapped it in situ, but the thought of all those drillings
joining the ball bearings at the base means that's not a good
idea, so I heaved a sigh, and removed the tank, headlamp,
fairing and instrument binnacle, to expose the forks.
A bit of time can be saved by tying up the handlebars, rather
than dismantling them:
[URL=
HTML http://s21.photobucket.com/user/bancquo/media/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/1%20handlebar_zpsw4rypnda.jpg.html][IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/bancquo/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/1%20handlebar_zpsw4rypnda.jpg[/img][/URL]
And then you reach that thing of beauty, that masterpiece of
Italian engineering, that piece of bent steel, also known as the
top yoke:
[URL=
HTML http://s21.photobucket.com/user/bancquo/media/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/2%20top%20yoke_zpsbi9a7gnh.jpg.html][IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/bancquo/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/2%20top%20yoke_zpsbi9a7gnh.jpg[/img][/URL]
With the front wheel, brake cable and speedo cable removed,
support the forks and then undo the 2 nuts that retain the fork
springs. You need a 36mm spanner or socket. They are under
slight spring pressure, so make sure they don't fly off into
your eye. Putting your knee on top of the front mudguard and
pressing down relieves most of the spring pressure, and in the
past I've fitted a small scissor jack between the lower yoke and
the mudguard, on a couple of bits of wood, to relieve all the
pressure. Then undo the 36mm nut on the steering stem, to
release the top yoke. A couple of taps with a nylon faced hammer
may be needed to free it.
Undo the steering stem top nut, also 36mm, and remove the
support to drop the forks out, complete with the steering stem.
Good time to plan working on the valves, as you'll never get
better access... ;D
[URL=
HTML http://s21.photobucket.com/user/bancquo/media/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/3%20fork%20off_zps3nsrxsjq.jpg.html][IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/bancquo/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/3%20fork%20off_zps3nsrxsjq.jpg[/img][/URL]
[URL=
HTML http://s21.photobucket.com/user/bancquo/media/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/4%20forks_zpshqihago4.jpg.html][IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/bancquo/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/4%20forks_zpshqihago4.jpg[/img][/URL]
You're now committed to doing it the wrong way. As I knew before
I started, and later confirmed, getting the stem back in with
the forks attached isn't impossible, but it's impossibly
difficult, and despite learning that the last time I did it, I
persuaded myself that I didn't have Tonya's fork leg removal and
replacement tool to hand, and I'd somehow find a way of doing it
that was better than the last time. The answer is, that you need
to remove the fork legs from the yokes, and despite not having
the tool, I found it remarkably easy. Undo the two pinch bolts
in the lower yoke (17mm, M8) and give the fork legs a sharp tap
with a nylon faced hammer and they just drop out from the lower
yoke. I used the handle to the hammer to knock them down inside
the shrouds, until they just drop out. Of course that wouldn't
be so easy with the top yoke in place, so take it off first.
Easy job to tap for the M8 Helicoil, and fix the tank mount.
[URL=
HTML http://s21.photobucket.com/user/bancquo/media/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/5%20tap_zpsa2pk5cv7.jpg.html][IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/bancquo/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/5%20tap_zpsa2pk5cv7.jpg[/img][/URL]
[URL=
HTML http://s21.photobucket.com/user/bancquo/media/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/6%20sorted_zpshgl4sjxf.jpg.html][IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/bancquo/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/6%20sorted_zpshgl4sjxf.jpg[/img][/URL]
This is why trying to put the steering stem back with the forks
attached is almost impossible. I had the axle in, and set up a
jack to support the weight. The idea was to stick the lower
balls in with grease, jack the stem into place without
displacing the bearings, and then fit the top balls and race. It
didn't work. No matter what you do with the jack, the stem won't
go in straight, and when you try to centralise it, one or more
balls will drop out, and you have to start all over again. I
also tried assembling the top bearing first, but without being
able to guide the heavy forks accurately enough, the bearings
still get knocked out. Next time, I'll just do it the right
way...
Reassembly of the loose steering stem is a breeze. I used JCB
waterproof grease, because it's thick and sticky and waterproof,
and a bag of 1/4" chrome steel, through hardened balls (you need
36, 18 top and bottom) from Simply Bearings, whose free delivery
order on Sunday had the bearings with me Tuesday morning.
Recommended.
[URL=
HTML http://s21.photobucket.com/user/bancquo/media/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/8%20new%20balls_zpsuunxirsm.jpg.html][IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/bancquo/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/8%20new%20balls_zpsuunxirsm.jpg[/img][/URL]
Previously, in an attempt to avoid a repeat of the rusty mess
the lower bearings had become, I had inadvisedly fitted
stainless balls, knowing they weren't as hard, but thinking they
would be well strong enough. This is why that isn't a good idea.
[URL=
HTML http://s21.photobucket.com/user/bancquo/media/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/7%20balls_zps5kv0v1ab.jpg.html][IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/bancquo/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/7%20balls_zps5kv0v1ab.jpg[/img][/URL]
I lined the top race with grease, and fitted 18 of the 1/4"
balls, then the top race, making sure it was well seated and
well packed with grease.
[URL=
HTML http://s21.photobucket.com/user/bancquo/media/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/12%20upper%20bearing_zpswt6pmtjj.jpg.html][IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/bancquo/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/12%20upper%20bearing_zpswt6pmtjj.jpg[/img][/URL]
Added more grease to the top cap, to provide something of a
seal.
[URL=
HTML http://s21.photobucket.com/user/bancquo/media/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/10%20grease%20cap_zpse7i5nkjv.jpg.html][IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/bancquo/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/10%20grease%20cap_zpse7i5nkjv.jpg[/img][/URL]
Same procedure for the lower race:
[URL=
HTML http://s21.photobucket.com/user/bancquo/media/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/9%20lower%20race_zps55nn64lg.jpg.html][IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/bancquo/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/9%20lower%20race_zps55nn64lg.jpg[/img][/URL]
Gently feed the stem into the head, making sure to keep it
central, and pressing down on the top bearing to keep it seated.
Thread the stem through the top bearing, and retain it with the
top nut. Check for free movement, then adjust the bearing. I
tightened until it just started binding, then backed off about
1/4 turn, checking there was no rock or free play.
[URL=
HTML http://s21.photobucket.com/user/bancquo/media/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/13%20assembled%20yoke_zpsbsocq6jm.jpg.html][IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/bancquo/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/13%20assembled%20yoke_zpsbsocq6jm.jpg[/img][/URL]
Slip the fork shrouds into place:
[URL=
HTML http://s21.photobucket.com/user/bancquo/media/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/14%20shrouds_zpsaqgme1pc.jpg.html][IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/bancquo/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/14%20shrouds_zpsaqgme1pc.jpg[/img][/URL]
Gather up the headlamp, and the binnacle wiring, and position
them in the right place below where the top yoke will fit, then
take the top yoke, and fit it over the adjusting nut.
Push the fork legs, minus the springs, through the bottom yoke,
and thread them through the rubber bungs in the shrouds, and up
into the top yoke. You should use the special tool to draw them
right in, but mine moved so easily, I just fitted the cap bolts,
and drew them in with those. Sorry for the bad photo.
[URL=
HTML http://s21.photobucket.com/user/bancquo/media/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/17%20top%20yoke%20on_zpsnhwzpyl2.jpg.html][IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/bancquo/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/17%20top%20yoke%20on_zpsnhwzpyl2.jpg[/img][/URL]
Fit the pinch bolts and tighten securely. Mine were fitted with
the nuts at the front, but the parts diagram shown them with the
nuts at the back, so I fitted them that way.
[URL=
HTML http://s21.photobucket.com/user/bancquo/media/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/18%20pinch%20bolts%2017mm_zpsxyhaiihj.jpg.html][IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/bancquo/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/18%20pinch%20bolts%2017mm_zpsxyhaiihj.jpg[/img][/URL]
Next, remove the two cap bolts, fit the springs and refit the
bolts, taking the pressure off with your knee againto relieve
the spring pressure. This is one of the jobs people say is
really difficult, but I've now done it several times with no
problems, simply by taking the pressure off.
Then it's down to reassembly of all the bits you took off:
[URL=
HTML http://s21.photobucket.com/user/bancquo/media/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/21%20wheel%20bars_zpscfx91ovq.jpg.html][IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/bancquo/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/21%20wheel%20bars_zpscfx91ovq.jpg[/img][/URL]
Note the clothes peg to prevent the speedo cable ring dropping
into the headlamp (thanks Paul Friday)
[URL=
HTML http://s21.photobucket.com/user/bancquo/media/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/20%20clothes%20peg_zpsfvixl9xj.jpg.html][IMG]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b298/bancquo/Classic%20Bikes/Falcone%20Forum%20Stuff/Tank%20Fixing/20%20clothes%20peg_zpsfvixl9xj.jpg[/img][/URL]
I have some new tank rubbers from Guzzibits, so that should be
the tank OK for a while.
If ever there was an example of how much work needs done for a
tiny little job, this was it....
#Post#: 631--------------------------------------------------
Re: Steering Head and Forks
By: nick949 Date: March 25, 2015, 1:56 pm
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If I ever need to do this, it might end up being cheaper to fly
you out here and put you up for a while to do mine, rather than
bodging it myself. ;D
Nah -my handlebars still turn and we don't have annual MOTs.
Good enough for me. :o
Nick
#Post#: 632--------------------------------------------------
Re: Steering Head and Forks
By: banquo Date: March 26, 2015, 3:59 am
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;D Last person in the world you would want working on your bike
Nick!
It's worth packing grease into the space you can see at the base
of the steering head. You can see the ball bearings in there,
completely exposed. My head had play in it (easy to find by
pulling the fork bottoms back and forward while on the centre
stand), and although I could have taken it up with a turn of the
adjuster nut, I could see the balls were rusted to hell, hence
the bad choice to use stainless.
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