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       #Post#: 1072--------------------------------------------------
       Oil viscosity / grade?
       By: Macca Date: August 30, 2020, 2:13 pm
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       Hi all
       Yamaha specify 20-40 grade oil though most offered are
       10-40 I am picking up on different opinions ref the best for our
       bikes, on top of this that mineral grade oil with minimum
       additives is best? as longer term owners, I would appreciate
       your thoughts / preferences?
       Mac
       #Post#: 1073--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Oil viscosity / grade?
       By: Saint Rob Date: August 30, 2020, 5:35 pm
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       I use Castrol Power 1 4T 10/40 (Not to be confused with Power 1
       4T racing) and have never had a problem with it, I usually
       change oil and filter every 4-5k miles and only use OEM filters.
       The one time I was persuaded to try some Q8 stuff I got clutch
       slip, fortunately I dropped it and changed back to  Castrol
       within about 50 miles and normal service resumed.
       Whatever you use make sure that it is at least JASO MA spec,
       arguments abound as to whether full synthetic or semi synth is
       best for big air cooled V twins, Obviously with the Castrol I'm
       in the semi synth camp.
       #Post#: 1074--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Oil viscosity / grade?
       By: Danmt Date: August 30, 2020, 10:49 pm
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       Motul 7100 20W50.
       And the K&N oilfilter which has a hex grip welded on the end of
       the can so you can fit a 17 mm wrench for tightening and
       loosening. Very difficult job without, in my view.
       #Post#: 1075--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Oil viscosity / grade?
       By: Rocker Date: August 31, 2020, 7:19 am
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       [quote author=Danmt link=topic=189.msg1074#msg1074
       date=1598845760]
       Motul 7100 20W50.
       And the K&N oilfilter which has a hex grip welded on the end of
       the can so you can fit a 17 mm wrench for tightening and
       loosening. Very difficult job without, in my view.
       [/quote]
       Google K&N filter problems mate, been a lot of failures where
       the hex head is welded on, I always use Hiflo or original
       fitment they aren't much dearer
       Any 10/40 semi synthetic oil which meets required spec
       #Post#: 1076--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Oil viscosity / grade?
       By: Danmt Date: August 31, 2020, 9:39 pm
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       Never had a hex failure so far. Just a good filter, and good
       oil.
       And if the hex should fail, you are left with a regular filter
       can to deal with. No worse than the Hi-Flo, then.
       #Post#: 1077--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Oil viscosity / grade?
       By: Rocker Date: September 1, 2020, 1:49 am
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       Removal is not the problem but oil leaking out being a danger
       especially if it gets to the rear tyre
       #Post#: 1078--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Oil viscosity / grade?
       By: Jota Date: September 1, 2020, 3:40 am
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       Hi, Penrite HPR30 20W60 mineral for me. I live in Brisbane
       though so can be hotter than Euro. Thicker oil definitely gives
       a quieter engine especially gearbox clatter.
       #Post#: 1079--------------------------------------------------
       Re: Oil viscosity / grade?
       By: TimR Date: September 2, 2020, 12:11 pm
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       I use Yamalube 10W-40 mineral.
       Change it every year incl filter. HiFlo filters usually...Stage
       3 bike.
       First time I changed the oil, I used the Yamalube and it caused
       clutch slip.
       I deep cleansed the clutch plates with a lheat  gun, basically
       burning ( carefully) the oil that was already soaked into the
       friction material. Done gently, it will turn into a puff of blue
       smoke and the friction material changes from a dark, glossy
       surface to a dry , lighter colour.  As I had no way of knowing
       which oil the previous used, it's always going to be a
       possibility. Oils dont always mix. Thats the difference between
       clutch slip, and oil incompatibilities.
       Yamalube mineral is perfectly suited to this engine. You need
       to change it a little more often as the molecular chains, which
       make it more suited IMO, get broken down more quickly than a
       synthetic oil does. As this happens, it becomes less effective
       quite quickly....  As most people dont clock 10K miles a year, I
       really cant see why they argue the toss about expensive
       synthetics. There are benefits to both. The trick is using them
       to their strengths in the right application....
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