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#Post#: 221--------------------------------------------------
Budget E30/E36 LSD 3-clutch mod
By: Cavi Mike Date: February 22, 2014, 1:43 pm
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[img]
HTML http://cavimike.com/E36dif01.JPG[/img]
A real cheap and easy mod for the E30/E36 LSD to make it more
aggressive is to simply add a 3rd clutch to it. In the clutch
pack, buried way in the carrier, is a spacer that just happens
to be about the same thickness as a clutch disc and plate.
Simply swap out that spacer for the clutch and bam, it's like a
whole new dif, and I'm gonna show you how with basic hand tools
- no air tools, no hydraulic press, not even a vise. You could
do this on your kitchen table if you felt like it, but I
recommend the floor.
First, get yourself a new disc and plate as shown above. Jump
right for the thickest plate, the rest of the clutch pack is
well broken in by now and you'll need it. Order some High-TEMP
Loctite as well, since no parts stores seems to stock this. No,
not the normal red stuff and definitely not the blue shit. This
should be the only money you'll need to spend, it will set you
back about $100.
For tools you'll need a ratchet, a long ass extension, a 6mm hex
socket, another wrench for leverage, and a torch. The thread
locker on the screws need heat to loosen them. If you don't heat
them first, they will strip out. The most important thing here
is that extension, at least 12 inch. I'll explain why in a
minute. The extra ratchet was because my ring gear was already
removed so this was easiest for me. Just put a wrench on your
ring gear bolt if yours is still on there.
[img]
HTML http://cavimike.com/E36dif02.JPG[/img]
Heat up the dif here for each screw. You have to get it to 500
degrees to burn off the old Loctite. Easiest way to tell you got
it hot enough is the gear oil will start burning off real good
and it will smell nasty. Real nasty. Motor oil dripping on your
hot exhaust is the baby brother to burning gear oil.
[img]
HTML http://cavimike.com/E36dif03.JPG[/img]
Now put your setup on the floor like this. Here's where this
extension comes into play. You'll notice those cap screws have
reallllly fucking shallow heads. Well if you think you're gonna
loosen these things with an allen wrench without stripping the
head, you're high. You need to get the wrench as far away from
the head as possible so the only force being put on the head is
turning force, no prying force. Use both hands on the ratchet,
the goal here is to keep the socket fairly straight inline with
the screw while you're cranking on this. The farther away you
can get the ratchet from the screw, the easier this is. A foot
is about perfect.
[img]
HTML http://cavimike.com/E36dif04.JPG[/img]
Break all of them free, but only take out 6 of them, leave 2
directly across from each other. Remember there are springs
inside this thing, so to stop this end plate from binding up, it
has to come out perfectly straight. So for these last two
screws, alternate loosening them about 1/4 turn each. Once it
reaches about 1/8" the springs will be fully released and you
can unscrew them all the way normally. This process is a bit of
a cunt even after you get these screws all the way out. A 12
pack of beer might not be enough...
[img]
HTML http://cavimike.com/E36dif05.JPG[/img]
Once you get the end plate off, just take out everything in
order and stack it all to the side.
[img]
HTML http://cavimike.com/E36dif06.JPG[/img]
And there it is, the spacer.
[img]
HTML http://cavimike.com/E36dif07.JPG[/img]
[img]
HTML http://cavimike.com/E36dif08.JPG[/img]
Alright, you can break out the new clutch you bought, it's time.
[img]
HTML http://cavimike.com/E36dif09.JPG[/img]
But don't go putting the new clutch where the spacer was - it
has to go with the other clutch. Take the spring off your stack
of parts...
[img]
HTML http://cavimike.com/E36dif10.JPG[/img]
...put the new clutch on, disc first, plate on top of it, and
the spring last...
[img]
HTML http://cavimike.com/E36dif11.JPG[/img]
...and now your stack should look like this. The order from the
end cap should be - spring, plate, disc, dif, disc, plate, disc,
plate, spring. Note the orientation of the spring. You want the
smaller inside diameter pointing away from the plate on both
ends.
They should be like cupped hands holding the whole pack together
(|{}||) <--two clutches on one side now.
[img]
HTML http://cavimike.com/E36dif12.JPG[/img]
You prolly noticed a couple smaller clutch packs in there that
are for the bevel gears, one each on opposite ends of the whole
pack.
[img]
HTML http://cavimike.com/E36dif13.JPG[/img]
If you got those out of order, they go - spacer, spring, clutch
disc (diamond surface against the gear). Same thing for the
spring orientation here. Just think "cupped hands" and it will
be easy to remember.
[img]
HTML http://cavimike.com/E36dif14.JPG[/img]
Now you can start putting this all back in the carrier. The
complete order going in is like this, starting with the small
clutch for the bevel gear, and remember the diamond surface
faces the gears -
1) small spacer
2) small spring
3) small disc
4) big spring
5) big plate (new)
6) big disc (new)
7) big plate (original)
8) big disc (original)
9) differential
10) big disc
11) big plate
12) big spring
13) small disc
14) small spring
14) small spacer
15) end plate
Just like taking these screws out, you gotta ease them in to
prevent it from binding. Don't rush this because if you break
this end plate, you're fucked. Take your time. Have another beer
and chill for sec if you're getting ancy.
Chill? Aight cool. Put all the screws in and snug them against
the end plate. You know how you tighten your lugs in a star
pattern? Well you can't do that here. You don't have springs
fighting you when you put your wheels on. This is completely
different. First, look at the space between the end plate and
the carrier. Is the space bigger on one side than the other?
Start there. Turning each screw 1/2 turn, go in this order.
DON'T force it. This shouldn't take much force at all. If it's
starting to feel tight, it's prolly binding, and you may have to
turn less than 1/2 turn with each one. Just take your time, it
will go.
[img]
HTML http://cavimike.com/E36dif15.JPG[/img]
Once the end plate is flush with the carrier and the screws are
about hand tight, you can go about Loctiting these things.
HIGH-TEMP Loctite. Not the blue shit, that can't handle the heat
inside one of these things. Even non-LSD difs get too hot to
touch, one of these gets WAY hotter, that's why they usually
have heat-sinks on the rear cover.
Pull out one screw, put some Loctite on it, screw it back in and
torque. Repeat 7 more times.
[img]
HTML http://cavimike.com/E36dif16.JPG[/img]
Well there you have it, budget 3-clutch LSD.
#Post#: 237--------------------------------------------------
Re: Budget E30/E36 LSD 3-clutch mod
By: derrty 30 Date: February 23, 2014, 11:14 am
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Nice write up! where did you buy the extra clutch from? pelican
parts? and do you know how much more lock up this will be? have
you tested this out yet? was going to just run a stock lsd in my
m3, but may do this for the extra lock up
#Post#: 254--------------------------------------------------
Re: Budget E30/E36 LSD 3-clutch mod
By: swanny Date: February 24, 2014, 2:39 pm
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Yeah! what he said ^
#Post#: 871--------------------------------------------------
Re: Budget E30/E36 LSD 3-clutch mod
By: JpKustomz Date: May 15, 2014, 2:03 pm
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Nice write up. I wanna see this car
#Post#: 875--------------------------------------------------
Re: Budget E30/E36 LSD 3-clutch mod
By: Cavi Mike Date: May 16, 2014, 10:04 am
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The plan was to modify the pumpkin on my E46 to fit this in
there but I got lazy and just welded up my stock dif. I picked
up an E30, this is going in that.
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