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#Post#: 1124--------------------------------------------------
220 V LJL-SC
By: lynx wind Date: December 22, 2013, 3:52 am
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Lets start a new thread topic for the 220 volt LJL-SC circuit.
I would be happy to have you and Totoalas help refine the 220
volt circuit. I built a 220 volt circuit for a man in Pakistan.
It was designed for 3 watt 220 volt LED bulbs. It surprised
me. Instead of focusing on the turns ratio to go from 12 volt
DC to 220 volt AC it has a lot to do with the voltage spike off
the collapsing magnetic field. The collector flyback is what
seemed to be key. This has a lot to do with the type of bulb.
You would think that the ratio should be a 20:1, but it wasn't
for the 3 watt bulbs. It was 5:1. 100 turns secondary, 20
turns primary.
I have also been finding for the LJL-SC the secondary should be
finer wire. The finest wire I have had success with is 24 awg.
The primary wire doesn't matter as much.
One snap on ferrite seems to be best. You get the best of both
the non saturating LJL aircore and the energy storage of the
SJR.
Number of turns of secondary doesn't seem to matter too much. I
have used as low as 65 turns secondary with very good results.
All that said, I would suggest the following as a start point
and then adjust primary for your bulbs.
100:20 ratio
24-30 awg secondary, 20-26 awg primary
ferrite snap-on choke
2N3055
4" diameter
LED bulb(s) between secondary and base connection
Once you have a low amp draw/high brightness, then add a 300 Ohm
potentiometer between collector and secondary.
Another clue to the right setup is frequency. The 110 v LED
bulbs seem to run very bright at 9khz and dim at 22 khz. For
the 220 v LED bulbs you may find full brightness at 5-6khz. I
test the frequency across the connection to the LED bulb socket
with a multimeter set to Hz.
#Post#: 1125--------------------------------------------------
Re: 220 V LJL-SC
By: lynx wind Date: December 22, 2013, 3:58 am
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Here is the 220 volt Soln1 unit that I helped one of our members
with. You can see his post here in the Solar section. This was
the 100/22 turn coil and would have been even better had I
snapped on a ferrite.
HTML http://lynxwindforumhtml.createaforum.com/solar-power/my-project-of-lynxsoln/
HTML http://lynxwindforumhtml.createaforum.com/solar-power/my-project-of-lynxsoln/
#Post#: 1126--------------------------------------------------
Re: 220 V LJL-SC
By: jabberwocky Date: December 22, 2013, 6:30 am
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Lynx Wind, I believe I am not the only one that appreciates what
you're doing here. I'll build a jig based on the initial specs
you've given. And let's document it here. Our goal at this point
is globalize LJL-SC.
#Post#: 1136--------------------------------------------------
Re: 220 V LJL-SC
By: totoalas Date: December 23, 2013, 12:06 am
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Thanks lynx it's a good start for the year
What I'm dreaming on ur circuit is versatility meaning a plug
and play kit lots of combinations unlike transformers
Using urge coil as a base
We can add multiple ferrite cores with additional windings
loads
Use or combine hv on the core for amplification
And earth wire as a another leg for loads
Then return extra coil loop for solar
Hybrid is all we need including all type of loads 4th type
generation leds or even better cheaper
Merry xmas and Happy new year to all
:)
#Post#: 1139--------------------------------------------------
Re: 220 V LJL-SC
By: mindhormone Date: December 23, 2013, 6:51 am
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220 AC is great :)
#Post#: 1150--------------------------------------------------
Re: 220 V LJL-SC
By: jabberwocky Date: December 26, 2013, 6:18 am
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Totoalas, I think you better have a sketch of the circuit you're
planning. I believe from what I have read so far, Lynx and the
rest of the team here are experimenting only. And, they've
tested one winding on several lamps already. So if you have a
different approach, please write up what you're planning and
we'll help you experiment. Better yet, also experiment and share
it here.
Lynx, I think I'll remove the potentiometer from the circuit. I
went shopping for parts and the only LED lamps I was able to
find are non-dimmable. To be exact, I bought 2 pieces of 3W
lamps. I have at my disposal at home a 5W and 7W LED lamp (also
non-dimmable) but are in use. I found one dimmable brand but its
too expensive. So I will just stick to the non-dimmables for
now. I think it does not matter if it is white or daylight.
Also, I have some thought on how to wind this without using
special jigs as you did. I'd just like to ask if the wirings
need to be really good and tight.
#Post#: 1151--------------------------------------------------
Re: 220 V LJL-SC
By: lynx wind Date: December 26, 2013, 10:05 am
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Here are some notes I made for a fellow that had me design a
220 v system. I was surprised about the turns ratio. These
were 2.5 watt 220 v bulbs.
[quote]
The 220 v LJL works but I don't know how it will do with any
other bulbs. I designed it to run the one bulb at rated watts
2.5 on high and about 1.5 watts on low. The strange thing is
with 4 bulbs the most it pulls is 370 ma. I can't tell if the
bulbs are 100% bright because I don't have a 220 v source.
This unit will also light the 110 v EcoSmart 6 watt bulb but no
other 110 v LED bulbs.
The coil is very easy to wind. It is 70 turns 26 awg secondary
magnet wire wound on a 4" form and then 18 and 22 turns 22 awg
primary magnet wire. 18 turns for high and 22 for low.
I am not happy with the switch because it has to sometimes be
jiggled to start.
These oscillating circuits start better with slide switches.
I think the low setting isn't necessary and a simple slide
switch for on off would be more reliable.
I will send this unit to you, but I think you will need to
experiment a lot more before thinking about a product.
[/quote]
#Post#: 1329--------------------------------------------------
Re: 220 V LJL-SC
By: lynx wind Date: January 25, 2014, 10:03 am
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I know from experimenting the simple 1 transistor LJL-SC circuit
is different for different 220v LED bulbs. Its hard to
anticipate if someone is going to try a 10 watt LED bulb or a 1
watt LED bulb. Here is a proven design first put forward by
Jonnydavro - The big advantage here is you can use an
inexpensive potentiometer and get the brightness you want. It
doesn't matter what direction the secondary is oriented.
I have tried this and it works nicely. You may still need to
adjust turns ratio to avoid seriously over driving the bulbs. I
remove the piezo buzzer from the case. All you need is the
oscillator inside. The only thing I modded in his schematic is
the use of the single coil as in the LJL-SC and the ferrite
choke, but you can use a cheap mains transformer for 240/12 or a
110/12 volt.
HTML http://youtu.be/vQglZZB5LLw
HTML http://youtu.be/vQglZZB5LLw
#Post#: 1534--------------------------------------------------
Re: 220 V LJL-SC
By: mindhormone Date: February 15, 2014, 11:31 am
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The buzzer inverter looks an easy build, thank you Marcus for
the schematics! and to jonnydavro.
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