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#Post#: 173--------------------------------------------------
Lawn Mower Engine conversion to Steam
By: lynx wind Date: August 6, 2013, 3:59 pm
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I'll start this thread for anyone interested. Basically you
tear the engine down, discard many components and modify the cam
shaft, head, and drill some holes at BDC. I have an old video
that I did back in the day. I do have the How to Plans, but the
file size is too big to upload to the forum. let me know if you
are interested and I can load at a steam page on the Lynx Wind
website.
HTML http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFW9m6KjPMg&feature=share&list=PLr6dIKZenO0N8eBlZ3B3V_5qyk5OSb38U
HTML http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFW9m6KjPMg&feature=share&list=PLr6dIKZenO0N8eBlZ3B3V_5qyk5OSb38U
#Post#: 175--------------------------------------------------
Re: Lawn Mower Engine conversion to Steam
By: crazyguy Date: August 6, 2013, 4:15 pm
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i saw that youtube on the gasoline to steam and i am interested.
in fact im jealous. i wish i had a machine shop and a metal
lathe.
one video i viewed had a two cycle to steam or compressed air.
#Post#: 177--------------------------------------------------
Re: Lawn Mower Engine conversion to Steam
By: burnit0017 Date: August 6, 2013, 10:27 pm
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Hi, it maybe possible to use some kind of pattern follower and
grinder to make the required cam.
#Post#: 179--------------------------------------------------
Re: Lawn Mower Engine conversion to Steam
By: crazyguy Date: August 7, 2013, 12:17 pm
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How do you lubricate? Doesn't the water damage the engine?
#Post#: 180--------------------------------------------------
Re: Lawn Mower Engine conversion to Steam
By: lynx wind Date: August 7, 2013, 12:37 pm
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Here is a fantastic illustration of the conversion to steam. He
shows the cam modification I suggest very well. Notice instead
of one large lobe for each valve there are two smaller lobes.
Originally I did this by grinding the cam round and drilling and
tapping holes for round head machine screws. That actually
works fine. But you have to make the geometry such that valve
open time is very quick. I did this by filing the round head to
a triangle shape.
One thing this fellow didn't do was add uniflow ports at BDC
which makes this conversion efficient. Also you want to
insulate the heck out of the cylinder and head.
HTML http://youtu.be/xmapdIx3vWA
HTML http://youtu.be/xmapdIx3vWA
#Post#: 181--------------------------------------------------
Re: Lawn Mower Engine conversion to Steam
By: burnit0017 Date: August 7, 2013, 4:57 pm
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Hi, thanks for the info. I started the conversion. I am trying
JB weld for the conversion of the cam shaft. Really messy,
searching for a better product or method. The first time is a
learning experience. CG, I have seen one project that suggests
using a inline oil that is used for air tools to lubricate
[attachment deleted by admin]
[attachment deleted by admin]
#Post#: 182--------------------------------------------------
Re: Lawn Mower Engine conversion to Steam
By: lynx wind Date: August 7, 2013, 5:12 pm
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The lubrication is not an issue with this low temp low pressure
steam. It basically makes a mayonnaise mess inside that coats
everything. After ten years my little engine looks pristine
inside. Cast iron rod, rings of steel, etc...
JB Weld will probably come off in a minute or two. Better to
grind the cam round and drill and tap for small round head
screws. Once you determine the geometry you can drill stright
through for a 180 degree separation for each valve. Take note
you want exhaust closing just before TDC and Admission opening
right at TDC.
#Post#: 185--------------------------------------------------
Re: Lawn Mower Engine conversion to Steam
By: lynx wind Date: August 8, 2013, 9:44 am
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There is a lot to know about steam. It isn't like air pressure.
The cam for this conversion is quite different than the cam for
the gasoline IC engine. In an effort to cut short your mistakes
and learning curve here is a diagram to help. You don't want
steam in for the full stroke. You want maybe 20-50% (called
cutoff) You want the steam to expand. You want to exhaust most
of the expanded steam at the bottom of the stroke (called
uniflow) so you don't cool the cylinder head with expanded
steam. The auxiliary exhaust can be timed for 30-70% of the
stroke to eliminate most of the compression. You want steam
admission to occur right at TDC, unlike a gasoline engine that
takes time to burn the fuel air.
The guys you see on YouTube making things work is fine. But to
really get steam to work efficiently, you can't be that sloppy,
you can't use solenoids, you have to insulate the cylinder, and
bash valves don't last long. Actually, these conversions aren't
the best, but they aren't bad either if done right. One problem
that isn't obvious is that these lawnmower engines will need a
large boiler and fire box. Their cylinders are quite large and
will gulp a lot of steam. Starting with a smaller engine may be
more practical.
[attachment deleted by admin]
#Post#: 187--------------------------------------------------
Re: Lawn Mower Engine conversion to Steam
By: burnit0017 Date: August 8, 2013, 11:17 am
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Hi, thank you for the help, it is greatly appreciated. Is it a
problem running steam in the winter?? Are there any diagrams
showing the design and installation of a condenser?
#Post#: 188--------------------------------------------------
Re: Lawn Mower Engine conversion to Steam
By: lynx wind Date: August 8, 2013, 12:26 pm
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The only problem with steam in the winter is when the fire goes
out and there is a chance of water freezing and bursting things.
There are some ways around this. Blowing off steam (a figure
of speech, but real in this case). It's called blowing down the
boiler. This empties all lines of water.
The other way is to put the boiler and engine indoors and vent
the burner as you would a fireplace, wood stove etc...
See, now things get complicated. Its not the engine but,
burner, boiler and controls.
As for condenser - use as big a condenser as you can find. A
big old car radiator would work well. As big a volume and
surface area as you can do. If you can exhaust into low
pressure or even a vacuum the engine will run better. Most of
the time you see people running the exhaust to atmosphere, which
is Ok, but keep in mind atmosphere is about 14 psi.
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