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#Post#: 3473--------------------------------------------------
Re: 175 design flaw part 1 of 2
By: lynx wind Date: June 23, 2014, 2:49 pm
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It is true the stator didn't come out perfect. It was slightly
thicker on one side. Happens sometimes on the first try. It
had a 1/16" gap all around when it was adjusted which is
typically a very safe gap. On perfect alts this can be 1/32".
I will adjust the stator parallel and adjust the gap between
magnets and stator. I will put as much torque on the speed nut
as I can. I have never had one come loose.
Is it possible you are hearing the hum from the alternator as it
makes power? Or is it a definite clicking sound as something is
striking against something?
I will contact you about available times when I can pick up the
alt.
#Post#: 3474--------------------------------------------------
Re: 175 design flaw part 1 of 2
By: happygolucky Date: June 23, 2014, 6:24 pm
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lynx please do contact me either phone..it is a 2 fold
situation ...definite scratching sound as magnet plate is plum
an true we tightened the nut! magnet plate was scraping
surface ever so slight ,as i had mentioned...an pictures above
on high side... the coupling that is pressed on the bottom is
off also not plum on aluminum shaft tilts the alternator/stator
1/16th to 1/8 stack those too with stator thickness ... coupling
add the over thickness from the resin an it becomes an 1/8 or
slightly more..i did extensive study an have experience in
tolerance control... for many companies so parts would be within
tolerance your tolerance is very tight 1/16th - 1/32 th you can
see the 2 slight marks in the photo above where the void
is..where it was rubbing ..against magnet plate ...we caught it
in time an that is why i did not have good start up it was
catching..i will show ...you/ i could sand it down an make it
true..on the high spots, but i am afraid of nicking wire
removing to much material as it can be seen ... a Bridgeport
with a jig an fixture would be ideal..
the bottom is flat. the magnet plate is plum ...an perpendicular
to to .25 thick magnet hihgth i did not check but assume are
true on plate still do not know how the nut came loose..? or
maybe just an over sight..
i guess i could remove the thick part on stator/alteneator by
sanding both parts or make a metal shim from strapping
material questionable idea but i think that is the solution oil
is leaking from bottom need a bead of caulk to seal?.
part 1 of 2
#Post#: 3475--------------------------------------------------
"Design Flaws Part 1 of 693"
By: happygolucky Date: June 24, 2014, 8:00 am
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duct tape over pole to take up play an make plum..inside of
coupling on low side. just a temporary fix..
has anyone else run into this problem?
very sloppy fit in coupling to emt pole should be snug fit ...
like coupling over aluminum with 10 thousandths play a snug
slip fit to coupling an emt pole to remove play the 2 top set
screws have no play...... even on the 160 gull as there any
play.. a few ideas lynx ... a shim on the one side or sanding
/ filing.. the pole that is low/high on pole to remove material
on pole to true an plum fit .....but then you still have rocking
back an forth play.. ? the top of pole since it rest on the
bottom of stator an is double pinned with 2 )1/4 -20 bolts an
lock washers would have to be re-drilled one it is made true an
plum holes will be out of ligament .. i hope this is descriptive
enough..
stator must be square level an plum to 1 1/2" EMT POLE an then
parallel to magnet plate.. that may be the reason for flicker in
video when turning?
this is just me thinking solution threw,,..i will wait for your
call an your solution.. i am home..
HGL
#Post#: 3476--------------------------------------------------
Re: 175 design flaw part 1 of 2
By: sut Date: June 24, 2014, 8:19 am
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@ HGl what I have done and used to correct pole to coupling
wobble is to use a piece of the same aluminum I used for wings .
most of the time I just live with the slop and have not ran into
any trouble
#Post#: 3477--------------------------------------------------
"Design Flaws Part 1 of 693"
By: happygolucky Date: June 24, 2014, 9:08 am
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sut
in theory your correct... if everything is true an concentric
on top but..... its just a another thing that i look at an am
considering in this 175 kit ...in my new design shaft alignment
will be critical in one of my applications ...no big deal, means
nothing here i just thought i would mention it it drain
water..really when it begins to spin it should true its self
,but the shaft will lean an wear on dia an cause friction. an
transfer wobble eventually on one side oblong hole..take two
motors an couple them together with shaft alignment... if one is
out of alignment it wears on hub an bearings, i tend to be to
be to critical with tolerances.. they can get you into trouble..
the other end of coupling on aluminum shaft, i see it is
pressed on or epoxied off 1/8 the 2 set screws they are
critical for holding.. my emt pipe sits on top the aluminum you
do not want to see a slight lean know it may mean nothing in the
175 but if true i believe it would start up in less wind?... now
we are only talking a 1/6 -1/8th an inch that's for lynx to
decide..
all i do is observe an report..but i want to see my turbine
working smooth as butter in the wind .
thanks for the idea
#Post#: 3486--------------------------------------------------
Re: 175 design flaw part 1 of 2
By: lynx wind Date: June 24, 2014, 7:38 pm
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If oil is leaking from the bottom it is possible the adjustment
nut was moved. When installed it is put in with a locktite
sealant. I have never had one leak or move once set. If it was
readjusted the seal is broken and the hub has to be cleaned of
oil, the magnet plate readjusted and the set screw put back in
with locktite. I leave this to dry overnite before lubing the
hub.
I would be happy to re-adjust this alternator for you.
You sure have had some problems with this wind turbine! Just
about every component has been a challenging and frustrating
experience. I have learned a lot.
#Post#: 3487--------------------------------------------------
"Design Flaws Part 1 of 693"
By: happygolucky Date: June 24, 2014, 8:37 pm
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thank you..life is a challenge..i also have learned a lot..also.
#Post#: 3489--------------------------------------------------
Re: 175 design flaw part 1 of 2
By: sut Date: June 25, 2014, 8:00 am
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The only way you can remedy the coupling is to have it machined
to fit the pipe then it adds cost to the kit . then you still
are not guaranteed that a different manufacture of the same pipe
would have the exact same size pipe
#Post#: 3491--------------------------------------------------
"Design Flaws Part 1 of 693"
By: happygolucky Date: June 25, 2014, 10:21 am
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all is all good sut,,minor glitches will happen its par for the
course... i have full confidence in the 175 diy kit.. we are
learning, as lynx proceeds forward ;D it goes with the process
an territory ... i have told lynx every detail i analyze data an
details... so that the 175 is an will be the finest vawt
available for lynx an the team... i'm sure lynx will bring it to
your attention as he is he team leader.... i'm documenting every
detail even minor as it may be..some things may happen to your
175 vawt i doubt it..i'm proud to be a team player an member..
it is good to exchange data an information so that lynx is
aware.
it's the little things that spoil the fox...
HAPPY! :D
#Post#: 3492--------------------------------------------------
Re: 175 design flaw part 1 of 2
By: lynx wind Date: June 25, 2014, 10:55 am
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Happy and I made adjustments to the stator and readjusted the
magnet plate. Here is what I believe happened.
It was clear the stator was not rock hard as you could see how
when tightened the hub pushed into the urethane. This caused
the stator to be slightly cocked. Evidently in the rush to get
the alternator to happy the urethane was not fully cured. We
sanded the urethane to have a smooth seating surface to the hub,
adjusted some more, adjusted the magnet plate. It now runs true
with about 3/32" gap. RMS voltage at 60 rpm is about 7-8 volts
ac
The slight misalignment of the coupler to hub is due to the
coupler not being a machined part. In the future a machined hub
that fits inside a 2" pipe will solve this and eliminate the
need for an adaptor.
I will probably go back to adding some fiberglass cloth in the
center area of the stator and allow the stator to cure longer.
That and a larger mounting surface with the larger hub will be
improvements.
I had hoped to produce more than one stator per day, but I think
the stator should cure in the mold for 24 hours.
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