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#Post#: 538--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: sut Date: October 8, 2013, 6:04 pm
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I saw your video on using veneer and I thought that was the cats
Pa Jamima's how did your Coroplast work? I have some aluminum
that's a little heaver than flashing (got it from neighbor who's
a siding guy) and will try to bend it around the forms . I also
have flashing thats thinner but it may be to thin but will keep
all posted on progress
#Post#: 547--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: Otis Date: October 10, 2013, 11:09 am
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heres a video that contains some material thats not all
stricktly seagull, but marcus suggested i post.
thank you lynx, for the guidance.
Any comments, questions or suggestions welcome.
Video removed for thread consistancy. I will post seagull
results as they are GENERATED.
#Post#: 548--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: October 10, 2013, 2:08 pm
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Thank you for posting this great video. You touch on a lot of
technology. I would like to suggest breaking up some topics so
the subjects don't get lost. A topic for each blade building
method, about the retro load controller, and keep the Seagull
testing here.
Great work!
#Post#: 576--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: ldissing Date: October 13, 2013, 6:43 pm
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@Lynx
Okay, finally getting around to making a new coil for a test.
You said 9 ohms max for the coils. Did you mean....for EACH
coil? I assumed you meant total, but these are my findings and
it appears that each coil will need to be 9 ohms.
I put 2 strands of 24 gauge wire on one coil for a test. I can
make one long coil or two shorter coils with this setup.
At 300 RPM, one strand which is about 4.6 ohms puts out 4.7 V,
which means cut in would be 300RPM roughly for three coils. So,
with two strands in series, it is 9.4 V at 300 RPM which means
about 4.7V for a single strand 9 ohm coil at 150 RPM which is
where you said cut in could start (150 - 180).
Does this sound correct to you? Basically fill the darn coil
with one strand of 24 gauge and I will have about 9 ohms per
coil and cut in will be roughly 150 RPM.
One other thing I messed around with:
I had a thought the other day about putting a round neo below
the coil. Allow it to turn as each magnet passes to increase
the flux through the coil without causing a huge issue with
cogging. (It will turn with 4 inches separation, but this test
was at a pretty close distance. About 1 inch from the magnets.)
I need to rebuild this test apparatus, but with the neo very
close to the edge of the magnets near the center (didn't think
too hard about the test apparatus or I would have made it
differently)....it increased the voltage output by 2.4V (two
strands in series) and it wasn't even in the center of the coil,
it was almost on the coil. That neo rotated turned like a
charm. I'm guessing it would be another volt or two if it was
really in the center of the coil, so I will rebuild that test
apparatus and check it out.
#Post#: 577--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: October 13, 2013, 8:59 pm
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9 Ohms per coil would be a bit higher than you need. It would
certainly make you some higher voltage. I would shoot for 9
Ohms total. When I say cutin at 120-150 rpm, I mean looking at
the voltage on a 12 volt battery where the voltage starts moving
up. You wont see enough voltage on a meter at this point
because the meter ignores the peaks.
Mine started moving a 12.5 volt battery up to 12.7 volts in a
8-9 mph wind.
Did you take your measurements across a capacitor hooked up to
the rectified AC off the coil? The capacitor will store the
peaks and read the highest voltage. But it will also rapidly
discharge when hooked up to a meter. So check throughout the
testing.
#Post#: 578--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: ldissing Date: October 13, 2013, 10:42 pm
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The DC measurements WERE taken off a capacitor, so rectified.
I can measure the AC voltages, but is dependent on meter reading
time, so not as accurate. I realize there are spikes in the
waveform, and I have a scope, but not near the "testing"
environment. I guess I can move it.
The cut in at for 24 gauge wire would be near 300 RPM at a total
of 13.5 ohms more or less, according to the measurements. Seems
high, but I'm pretty sure it is accurate. That is a good wind
and I don't think I will attain it here in TEXAS most of the
time.
No comments on the external round NEO I take it...An interesting
way to get more voltage out of the coils without a core.
#Post#: 580--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: burnit0017 Date: October 14, 2013, 2:39 pm
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Hi, was the measurement taken under load or open circuit?
#Post#: 582--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: October 14, 2013, 7:14 pm
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I just wound some new coils for a customer and filled them full.
They came out to about 4 Ohms each.
I am concerned after reading your posts something is wrong.
Hopefully you guys will real wind test soon to confirm what I
experienced. I sold mine long ago and haven't made another
Seagull.
#Post#: 583--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: ldissing Date: October 14, 2013, 9:06 pm
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@ lynx wind
"Hi, was the measurement taken under load or open circuit?"
I'm not sure as to what this post this in reference too, but
I'll post assuming you were asking me the question.
Because I only built one coil of 9 ohms (two strands in series)
I did not have enough voltage to charge a battery.
When I increased the speed to 480 rpm, I did have enough voltage
and the battery did start to charge. The capacitor reading was
over 15V at that speed.
I was also using 24 gauge wire, which is a pretty small wire,
because that is what I had. That was 600 turns (two wires in
series). 22 gauge would be nicer.
#Post#: 586--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: ldissing Date: October 15, 2013, 4:01 pm
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Ga Dia(inch) Dia(mm) Ohm (1000 ft)
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
Ohms for 100 feet of 22 gauge is 1.614.
Ohms for 100 feet of 24 gauge is 2.567.
@crazyguy:
24 vs. 22 is not quite a double on resistance. I had 600 turns,
you had 160. I'm sure you could have put way more than 160
turns on that coil but the calculation says you have ~65 feet of
wire per coil and I have ~350 feet on the test coil.
Of course, you have 4 coils total so either they needed to be a
little smaller or the diameter bigger, can't remember which you
said you did, I think you said you made a bigger diameter for
the stator.
The 24 gauge wire is just too small and the 18 gauge wire is
just too big. 21 or 22 would seem to be perfect.
I don't even know what the question/issue is anymore.
@Lynx Wind:
4 ohms each sounds about right. 400 feet of wire on the coil.
With the 18 gauge coils I had 200 turns and I could have put
more wire on the coils, but I thought the voltage would be more
of a function of the number of turns than the total resistance
according to what I found about calculating the number of turns
vs. voltage, so because crazy guy said he used 160, I used 200.
Should have wound it up to the max like you said and not
worried about the turns, but I like to know how many turns there
are on a coil.
Is true cut in when the AC voltage - diode drop is over battery
voltage...I assume yes. I'm not talking about the
spikes...gotta hook up the scope so I can see what it looks
like.
Using the lathe is like a constant wind source. If the turbin
can spin to 300RPM which it can and I'm getting X voltage out,
then at 150 RPM, I "should" get 1/2 the voltage. Or to say it
another way, I need twice the turns on a coil at 150 RPM than I
have at 300 RPM to get the same voltage out, no (forgetting
about spikes).
Leroy
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