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#Post#: 386--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: September 12, 2013, 1:58 pm
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It would seem like the best idea to use a ball bearing race, but
it isn't with this design. That's because the load is balanced
with the central rotor placement. Having the shaft ride in a
lubricated bushing and carried on the vertical axis with a ball
bearing works really well.
It's like a spinning top from your childhood days. What would
have happened if that spinning top were mounted in a ball
bearing? how long would it have spun?
It takes very little breeze to start the Seagull75. It would
take a much stronger wind if it were mounted in a ball bearing.
And a sealed ball bearing is really stiff and would take a 15
mph wind to start.
#Post#: 434--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: burnit0017 Date: September 19, 2013, 10:32 am
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Hi, that is great news. I look forward to your results.
#Post#: 436--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: September 19, 2013, 3:16 pm
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Very nice. You are the first to get this up and running.
Congratulations!
Hook up the output through a bridge rectifier and DC to a 12
volt battery. You should see battery voltage rise at about 7-8
mph wind speed and 110-120 rpm. The voltage may rise from 12.4
to 12.42 or something like that. That is your cut-in speed. It
would be nice if you had an anemometer to gauge cut-in wind
speed. But trust me, after awhile you wont care.
You wont need a controller because this turbine wont overcharge
a large 12 volt unless it is blowing 20 mph for days. A typical
battery can handle 1-2 amps without any problem.
I have left my SOLn1 out for 6 months in afternoon sun and it is
as fresh as ever. No controller.
I think you would need a controller if you were consistently
pushing 2 amps and above for long periods.
Keep in mind, this turbine and a small solar panel (20 watt)
could provide your lighting needs if you use an LJL type
circuit.
Good news! Home Depot is selling my favorite LED now for
$15.97/2pak. These are the Ecosmart 6 watt/40 watt equiv LED
bulbs. They will last many years.
I can run 12 of these bulbs on 30-36 watts.
#Post#: 438--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: burnit0017 Date: September 19, 2013, 7:22 pm
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Hi, thanks for posting. Did you paint the wood grain blades
white. It looks great.
#Post#: 443--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: burnit0017 Date: September 20, 2013, 5:09 am
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;D How deep is the foundation?
#Post#: 445--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: September 20, 2013, 8:45 am
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It looks like you have a weather station data gatherer. That
will work well. Keep in mind, wind is like waves on a beach. I
have watched real time data for more hours than I want to admit.
What you will see is the wind speed data will give you an
average, and yet amps will vary up and down in waves. It is
very difficult to correlate a particular wind speed with power.
It is harder still because as amps rise so does voltage.
On a good windy day you can pull a known amount of power off
(say with several 10 watt lightbulbs) and note whether voltage
rises or drops. That will give you an indication of the average
power input from the turbine. You can vary the number of bulbs
until you can maintain a even voltage. Note average wind speed
over that time period.
My guess is you will be able to maintain 20 watts at 12-13 mph.
#Post#: 460--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: ldissing Date: September 28, 2013, 10:27 am
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Well, I took my VAWT up to my brothers house in Kansas to test
it out. It spun much of the time I was there, but in the
evening it was pretty slow or not at all. I do beleive it hit
300 RPM. I calculated this by putting a meter on it which
would measure hertz, and that was 15 Hertz, which I divided by
three (6 mags, 3 of which produce positive voltage and 3 neg) so
5 revol. per sec * 60. But I had very little voltage out of
it. 1.5 - 1.7 Volts, so I'm guessing my magnets are a little
too far away from the coils or the magnets are not crossing the
coils perfectly at the same time. I did use different wire
because I could not get 20 gauge wire, so I used 18 gauge with
200 turns. I thought spinning it by hand gave me more voltage
than that, but I was apparently mistaken.
At least it didn't fall apart at 300 RPM, if I calculated that
correctly.
I'm going to rewind coils and, of course, do the whole resin
thing again while looking into the distance issue, but even IF
the magnets were were a little closer, I don't see it producing
enough with the current coils/magnets to get a usable voltage
without some kind of double or quad voltage multiplier.
I do have a video, but it is sideways...my brother took it and
when I looked at it on my computer today.
#Post#: 461--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: ldissing Date: September 28, 2013, 10:37 am
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Oh, and the diodes only have a small drop across them, .25V more
or less, so it might have had AC of 2.25 volts or something like
that.
I measured the voltage while putting the rectified DC into a
1000uf capacitor, because the 12V battery was not charging.
#Post#: 463--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: burnit0017 Date: September 29, 2013, 5:23 am
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Hi, what is the internal stator resistance? You may have (I
squared R) loss at the stator. Was a load connected to the
VAWT???
#Post#: 465--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: ldissing Date: September 29, 2013, 9:03 am
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The magnets are NIB 42, the ones specified by Lynx Wind the only
difference is the 18 gauge wire, but I put 200 turns on each
coil (could have been more turns). The internal resistance is
2.5 ohms, so the coils have 339 (if I remember correctly) feet
of wire in total. so at 2.0 V (roughly), that means an 0.8 amp
is going through, V/R = I.
Seems like I just need more ohms at the stator.
The gap is under an 1/8th, but I will rebuild to see if I can
get it to be smaller. I think there may be a little wobble,
i.e. 1/8th ay the most at 1/16th at the best, so I need to get
that squared up and removed but she spins nicely.
I had it tied to a battery for a "load", but then it did not
have enough voltage to charge, so I put the 1000 uf cap in place
of the battery. That is how I know what the voltage output
was. So, 1.7 volts + diode voltage drop of .25 - .3 = 2 volts
more or less.
At first, I thought the battery was charging, because the
battery was going up in voltage and it was up a 0.10 V after a
very short time, but decided it was a temperature change that
caused it to move up in voltage. After a day, the battery the
next morning was where it had started out the day before, so I
knew it wasn't charging. I knew a cap would be the proper way
to know what the rectified voltage was....and it was low.
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