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#Post#: 167--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: ldissing Date: August 5, 2013, 10:39 pm
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Where are you getting your 20 gauge stainless sheet or 3/8" SS
straps? Hard to find locally, I can get something of the web,
but will take longer.
Seems like piano wire would be a good choice for it's
strength....if one could figure out a way to get it connected to
the turbine solidly.
Leroy
#Post#: 169--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: August 6, 2013, 1:07 pm
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Idissing
I get stainless steel strap from a local fabricator. You could
also pop into a sheet metal shop. It takes them maybe five
minutes to sheer some scrap. You'll have to measure very
carefully or maybe make a template with an actual piece of
something so they can cut the length correct. The fastener at
the rotor needs to be right by the bend. The bend at the blade
needs to be at the angle of the blade tip and then over to the
fastener.
CG
I like your stator and mag plate. You probably could have got a
lot more wire in that diameter, but it will do something for
sure.
#Post#: 171--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: August 6, 2013, 3:09 pm
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CG,
I like the way you ran the wiring. Very clean.
Even in light winds you will be able to make enough power to
light several LED bulbs. Make sure your bracing is strong,
you'll be amazed at the force forward and outward on the blades
at 30 mph.
If you have ever cranked an alternator to produce 75 watts
you'll know it takes quite a lot of force.
#Post#: 184--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: August 8, 2013, 9:21 am
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You would be better to adhere those second magnets on the first
plate and keep as close to the original design as possible.
Changing so many variables is going to lead to a different
outcome. Mixing a lot of concepts together from different
things you have seen and heard may not be helping. This single
phase design is a purposed design. The flux lines do not go
straight through like a dual plate alt.
The coils I originally used have a combined resistance of 4.8
ohms, (meaning there are more turns), the magnets were much
stronger at 1" x 2" x .25" You could have spaced those magnets
much more closely together. The original magnet plate template
is a proven design.
Your alternator will work, the turbine will just turn a little
faster. Trying for high voltage at really low rpm isn't
necessary or desirable with this turbine.
If you can get to 8-9 vac OC at 100 rpm, you will be right in
the sweet spot for this turbine and 12 volt. I think the best
way is to double up your magnets on one plate for a lot of
reasons.
The steel backer is helping. It may be a bit thin for this alt,
but is probably Ok.
Eventually you need to put things together and do some testing.
You may be quite surprised to find this all works very well.
#Post#: 190--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: August 8, 2013, 1:18 pm
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That will work pretty well. You may want to someday make a new
stator with more turns, or beef up those magnets (much easier).
I would recommend doing some testing first. Ideally you will
see some uptick on a 12 volt battery in 6-8 mph winds.
My 20" diameter VAWTs cutin at around 200 rpm, the 39" Vawts
cutin at 110 rpm. For a 28" diameter you may want to cutin at
150-160 rpm. But you are close enough to do some testing.
#Post#: 196--------------------------------------------------
Drilling stainless
By: ldissing Date: August 8, 2013, 4:42 pm
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I've been doing some research since I've jacked up several drill
bits. What are you using to drill that stainless. I had to
use 18 ga. because I couldn't get 20, but that is not easy to
drill.
Leroy
#Post#: 197--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: August 8, 2013, 5:23 pm
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Yep, you have to press hard and go slow. You are looking for
chips as you drill. Keep a spray bottle of water handy to keep
the metal cool. I used to drill and now I just have the
machinist punch the holes. You can do it. Make sure your drill
bits are sharp and you wont have a problem. It will be worth it
not to have the blades break off the day it is really windy.
#Post#: 198--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: ldissing Date: August 8, 2013, 6:16 pm
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I guess it IS the sharpness. The first 5 or 6 holes when
fine...then I couldn't get a drill bit to go through. At first
I thought faster...nope...did some research and slower is
better, but still problems. I will sharpen the drills and try
again and then after a couple of holes sharpen again.
#Post#: 205--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: August 10, 2013, 8:26 am
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That will work to lower cutin rpm. Time to put it together and
do some experimenting.
#Post#: 207--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: August 10, 2013, 9:47 am
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The paint can lid ceramic magnet alternator is not as good as
what you made. It was more of a starter alt. Upgrading it to
the larger 1x2x.25 magnets would be necessary for decent
performance.
I would stick with your alt for some testing. Then think about
more turns and/or stronger magnets. I think your magnet rotor
is quite good with the double magnets. I tend to pack as much
power into a small space as I can. But space really isn't a
premium under the big Seagull 75 rotor. You could easily have
room for 24 magnets and 12 coils under there. Increasing number
of magnets does more for voltage than just about anything other
than rpm.
Aluminum bracing could work. It needs to be quite a bit thicker
than stainless so it doesn't rip out. I have had aluminum parts
cut through like butter at high speeds.
You could look for old metal strapping off a large crate. That
will work but would eventually rust after a year in the
elements. The strapping is super strong steel, wont stretch and
probably a little easier to drill through than stainless. It's
free and you could replace it easily after a couple years.
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