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#Post#: 2099--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: April 4, 2014, 7:10 pm
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Jumpin' in
Yes, I think the Seagull 75 was a sort of "simple as it can be
design" and it has shortcomings.
If any of you are thinking about replacing upgrading your
alternators you should be thinking about as many coils, as much
wire and as many magnets as possible. Power out is related to
number of poles, strength of magnets and rpm. We know we can get
rpm in decent wind. We don't want resistance slowing down the
turbine and robbing power, and we don't want high rpm and low
voltage. TSR from this type of design will be about 1.5-3, so
we want to be extracting power in that range. For the Seagull
design that's about 180-400 rpm in winds that will produce more
than 10 watts.
The attached picture is of a 12" diameter stator 3/8" thick, and
a 9" diameter steel plate with 1" x 2" x 1/4" magnets. The hub
should be beefed up for a 5/8" shaft, and maybe I should be
making those for sale so that part is precision. With this alt
you could probably attach 4' long blades and use a 36" diameter,
or run the Seagull 75 rotor.
The design is such that it will be 60 hz when charging 24 volts
and running at 360 rpm. That means while charging 24 volt
batteries the output through a transformer will be pretty clean
sine wave 120 volt AC
If this is a direction you guys would like to see, lets discuss,
think about the aluminum blades supported on foam and get the
Seagull plans updated. Then all our work can come together and
be rewarded. Of course some of why we do this is because it's
fun and our hobby.
#Post#: 2105--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: sut Date: April 5, 2014, 8:01 am
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In the above are you talking about just a set of plans that you
can download (like the diy 75) or are you talking about a
complete kit you can buy and assemble ? or both
I like the size the of the current diy its easy to handle when
placing it on the pole and people with limited space could put
up with out to much trouble . But I also like the Idea of
offering a bigger diy that would put out mega watts (in good
wind )
I think you could do away with the formers by cutting a shallow
groove in the rotor and in the wing tip and just gluing the
aluminum in both shallow groves (taking the place of the formers
and making it even lighter)
#Post#: 2106--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: April 5, 2014, 8:23 am
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@SU
Not sure what I am talking about yet and appreciate the
feedback. I think the toughest part of the DIY is getting a hub
and rotor to be rugged and perfectly aligned. So I think the
steel magnet plate, shaft, hub with bearings and ball bearing
should be available in a kit. Perhaps the coils should be
available prewound. I would like to see the shiny white
aluminum skins available from SUT. Those are nice strong
blades!
It would be tough to have someone cut precision grooves to hold
the blades in position. Probably need to have them cut formers
that screw and glue to rotor and blade tips to hold the aluminum
in position.
I don't think wood dowels are the way to go. I really like the
fiberglass spars. They flex a little but don't bend or break.
So in a kit someone would get:
Steel rotor, shoulder bolt shaft and speed nut
hub with bearings,
coils, brass connectors
magnets,
aluminum skins,
fiberglass spars with studs and nyloc nuts
Pole coupler
Hardware
The customer would cut the rotor and formers, stator plates from
plywood and do the fiberglassed stator, form the blades and
assemble.
#Post#: 2107--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: April 5, 2014, 8:32 am
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I am sure CG will have a controller/rectifier/transformer
circuit ready for us soon that would sell alongside the kit. It
would be cool to have battery charging, 110 v output and a
lighting system all on one board. Whether or not the 100 v is
our transformer or an inverter, not sure.
CG - are you working on this?
#Post#: 2108--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: sut Date: April 5, 2014, 9:01 am
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That sounds good to me! and I agree that hardest part is the hub
and bearing assembly you have to get it right ! I found out the
other day that the shaft in the magnet plate CANT touch the wood
part (rotor) it throws off the alignment of it and sets up a
wobble . So the last time I had mine down I enlarged the center
hole in the rotor and the windmill turns a lot better . ( truer
)
#Post#: 2111--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: April 5, 2014, 9:42 am
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Yes, you.
I don't think there will be a problem with voltage with a
stronger alternator. When it is matched to the turbine it runs
along nicely controlled by battery voltage. So really we just
need a single bridge rectifier, maybe a transformer to have the
higher voltage AC and/or an inverter, and a LED lighting system.
We could also use Nessprojects' simple boost circuit as the
rectifier.
Then we would have charging at really low winds, straight
through charging, the 110 voltage AC and the LJL style lighting.
Fit it all on a small board - it would be pretty cool. Have a
tie in for a 12 volt solar panel for a one stop power station.
Just have to decide if this will be a 12 volt or 24 volt system
which will dictate the magnet wire size. I am thinking now a 12
volt system is probably the most common and best idea.
CG - want to draw this up and prototype? Sut, ready to make
some prototype white aluminum blades 19.5" long by 6.5" chord?
#Post#: 2115--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: April 5, 2014, 10:50 am
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I don't know about him making them on the spot, but the samples
he left me with are impressive. I am pretty flexible this
coming week and we all need to have lunch.
#Post#: 2117--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: sut Date: April 5, 2014, 11:22 am
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Making them on the spot is a little iffy (don't think restaurant
would like it being done ) and as far as white goes I don't have
it, but I do have it in brown. I could bring aluminum with fold
in TE and bend it in front of you with out formers . if @ LW
could bring wing I made , @CG could see how strong it is
completed . I am also flexible as far as time and spot to meet
some where on us23 would be fine
#Post#: 2122--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: sut Date: April 6, 2014, 8:58 am
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I switch to goop for adhesive! But my epoxy blades have held up
great so far (they made it through the winter ) I was also
thinking of trying the seam sealer that you can get for gutters
from any big box store that sells gutters . I was also looking
into that marine glue that someone suggested but for a diy
project I think its better to use widely and easy purchased
products
#Post#: 2123--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: April 6, 2014, 9:15 am
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Because of the way these aluminum blades are made with a small
fold at the TE, the adhesive has very little work to do. The
force on the blade is such that the seam at the TE is a very
strong joint. It would have to sheer over 10 sqin of bond, and
there isn't really much sheer force.
Really the only issue is if the aluminum is strong enough to
withstand the suction along the flatter areas at high speed. A
couple of supports at rotor, blade tip and maybe the middle
should keep the blade from deforming.
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