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#Post#: 126--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: ldissing Date: July 21, 2013, 9:25 pm
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Brilliant...nice to see your original thinking.
#Post#: 136--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: mad murdock Date: July 26, 2013, 8:20 pm
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I have spent the last several nights watching your you tube vids
on steam boilers, steam generator control circuits and finally
your vids on wind power. I am a 25 plus yr aircraft mechanic for
my day job. I appreciate your no nonsense approach to all your
projects and the nice layout of your alternators. Very
impressive. I am you g to get the plans for the 75w wind
turbine. I think I will build 2 at once. Then I am going to
build a barrell monotube e steam generator. I will ask questions
about that on the steam thread. Can't wait to start building!!
Thanks for the great job on your website.
#Post#: 150--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: July 29, 2013, 7:41 pm
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Awesome!
Do you think it is a quick simple build? If so it beats my
attempt at a quick simple build. I never could get that
material to bend smoothly.
#Post#: 156--------------------------------------------------
Figerglass resin
By: ldissing Date: August 4, 2013, 1:26 pm
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That fiberglass resin and fiberglass cloth is a real pain.
Sticky, and smelly and a lot of other works I can't post here.
#Post#: 158--------------------------------------------------
Fiberglass resin
By: ldissing Date: August 4, 2013, 8:56 pm
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I was working to complete the resin on the rotor and blades this
afternoon. It was in the garage and maybe 110 in there or so.
I started working with it just fine, but after about 2 minutes,
it started to harden and the temperature on the cup it was in
was pretty hot. Any ideas on why it started hardening after 2
minutes instead of the 10-12 minutes it is supposed to take?
I also poured some of it into the coupler before it started to
harden and that coupler was pretty darn hot even with a fan
blowing on it. I'd guess 120 - 130.
Just a weird thing....
I had done it in the morning (cooler) without any issues, so is
it the heat?
Thanks,
Leroy
#Post#: 159--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: August 5, 2013, 6:02 am
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Three things.
You can't use more or less catalyst than the directions call
for. You have to use the right amount.
The chemicals are designed for workspace temperatures of 60-80
degrees. Higher room temperatures will speed up the hardening.
Mixing a lot of resin (more than 12 oz) on a hot day will create
a very fierce reaction. I have melted a mixing pail because I
mixed too much.
Try doing this work when temperatures are moderate. Mix only an
amount you can apply in 10 minutes. Wear gloves, have plenty of
disposable brushes. Put down disposable drop cloth/paper.
Once you get the hang of the resin and applying it gets super
easy. The payoff is having a blade that is super strong and
light in a few minutes.
#Post#: 161--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: ldissing Date: August 5, 2013, 8:43 am
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Guess I'll be working in the morning....too hot otherwise
anyway.
Thanks,
Leroy
#Post#: 162--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: August 5, 2013, 10:12 am
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Your stator and magnet plate will probably be much better than
spec'd. You will be pleasantly surprised at how forgiving the
LYNX VAWT design is. It will run up to whatever speed it needs
to. The only bad thing would be if the stator was way too high
a voltage for the load. For instance if you are seeing 24 volts
at 100 rpm and trying to charge a 12 volt battery. The turbine
would probably stall below TSR 1. My guess without knowing your
design exactly is you will see 12 volt charging at 90 rpm.
#Post#: 165--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: ldissing Date: August 5, 2013, 8:54 pm
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I finally have the first coat on the turbine. Tonight, even
though pretty hot, all went well. I kept the resin in the
house until I was ready to use it...took it out, poured, mixed
and it went on like butta. Kind of like the first time.
A lot nicer to work with...when I do it right.
My coils are different than yours also. I could not find 3/8th
material, it was all close to 1/2 inch stuff, so I made the
stator mold out of 3/4" stuff since I could not get 20 ga wire
locally, I used 18 gauge (closest I could get) and put 200 turns
on the coils. Since I had to go with bigger gauge wire, I
thought a few more turns would be appropriate. So, the coils
are thicker and I believe there is a maximum size coil for the
width of the magnet (should have 1/2 inch magnets for 3/4 inch
coils). Spinning with a twist of the fingers I could get three
volts on the volt meter hardly spinning it at all, so I'm afraid
it will be a little too much voltage, but I'm planning after
getting it up and running the "normal" way to use pulse charging
with my own circuit, so we'll see what happens. The coils in
series are 2.4 ohms. 3 coils modified, 6 magnets of your spec.
I'm going to go and get some of the coroplast (sp) material and
try that also after I get my first try up and running. I read
your forum posts on the coanda effect, which was enlightening.
Since the foils need to be really smooth and I think that
should give me a really smooth surface and really light and
strong. If that is true, then the effect should be magnified
over my not so perfect foils (they aren't terrible, just not
perfect). Doesn't look too hard to do at all, but I'll let you
all know...but that will be a bit because I have to get her up
and running first.
Building this isn't just for any dufus (like me). At least I
already had all of the tools to get the job done.
Leroy
#Post#: 166--------------------------------------------------
Re: Seagull DIY Discussion
By: lynx wind Date: August 5, 2013, 9:47 pm
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Very good, I am impressed. 18 awg might turn out to be really
nice. 2.4 Ohms is outstanding and you wont lose power to
resistance until you reach unusually high winds. I went 20 awg
because I was concerned about not enough voltage. Its Ok if the
blades aren't really smooth. There can be some fabric showing.
Don't bother overworking and trying to be perfect. But painting
is important because you don't want it looking mangy.
Do me a favor and do some testing with the fiberglass blades and
then compare to the smoother coroplast.
Important note: Everyone should use as beefy bracing as
possible. I have not found any way to use wires that has worked
well. They stretch, come un-twisted, and break. I have changed
over to 3/8" wide stainless sheet about 20 awg thick. Drill and
bolt. I now epoxy a stud into the blade tip and rib, then put
the bracing on and nyloc nut.
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